Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a small coastal town in Caribbean Costa Rica in the province of Limón. It is popular with surfers and backpackers. This is an area where foreigners are buying and building. There are two gorgeous national parks nearby - Cahuita and Manzanillo, and it rains more than on the Pacific side, which is why it is so lush and green with the rainforest coming down to the sea.

Clear water, coconut palms, great surf and a laid-back Caribbean atmosphere make Puerto Viejo a favorite among travelers. Located on the Caribbean Coast, about an hour south of Limon, Puerto Viejo is the center of activity between the smaller villages of Cahuita and Manzanillo. The relaxed, seaside town is framed by jungle, turquoise seas, banana plantations and scenic rivers.

Puerto Viejo used to be a small fishing village, but it has grown into a large tourist town. Avid surfers, drawn to the famous Salsa Brava waves, have made Puerto Viejo a hotspot on the surfing circuit. The center of town now has many souvenir and surf shops, bars, restaurants, hotels and tour companies. True to its beach location and Caribbean ambiance, bikes and pedestrians dominate road traffic along the coastal roads.

With its blend of Afro-Caribbean descendants, expat Europeans and indigenous Costa Ricans, Puerto Viejo charms visitors with a unique mix of people and cultures. Rastafari culture has a firm foothold in the town, and many Rastas sell handmade jewelry and other wares along the town’s vibrant roadside.

Understand
Before the Spanish arrival, the Bribri, Kekoldi and Cabecar indigenous peoples were the primary inhabitants of Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean. Later, Afro-Caribbean immigrants arrived, many from Jamaica, and settled in the coastal towns of Puerto Viejo, Punta Uva, Manzanillo and Monkey Point. Because of their influence, many Puerto Viejo natives today speak English as their first language.

Until the late 1970s, Puerto Viejo was relatively isolated from the rest of Costa Rica. In 1979, a new road connected the small village to San José and the Central Valley. In 1986, electricity arrived, supplying light and other important conveniences to the town. Private phone lines became available in 1996, and high-speed internet was offered in 2006. Today, Puerto Viejo is as modern as any beach town, though it still retains its original charm.

Get in
The local bus leaves 4-5 times a day direct from San Carlos Station in San José. Last bus leaves at 16:00 and all buses are direct with one pit stop outside of Limon. The ride is approx 4 hours. Make sure you get on the bus to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, not de Sarapiquí which is a different part of the country.

If you want to save a few colones, you can take local bus from Caribe station to Limón and transfer to Puerto Viejo bus. This is what many locals do.

There are also tourist buses that will pick you up at your hotel and drop you off where you want. The most popular one is Easy Ride Shuttle Services they run daily from San José hotels to Puerto Viejo at 06:00, 10:30 and 15:30, returning daily at 06:00, 10:30 and 15:30. The rate is US$45 one way per person. Add $10 from or to SJO Airport. There is also Grayline.

Driving here is also popular, but roads can be bad as at certain times of the year, the pot holes can get obnoxious. However, you really don't need a car when you are here. Most people rent bicycles and scooters. The roads may not be all paved, but they are flat as they all follow beach line.

Get around
The bus system is very limited. Busing between the beaches takes some planning, with a reliable bus running between Limòn and Manzanillo every two hours. Busses run on schedule and are approximately US$0.50/town, two towns over is ₡620. Taxis are frequent but most are not marked, so be wary. Taxies cost approximately UaS$4/town so going two towns over is $8. Most lodges have bicycles for rent and there are many other bike rental locations. They are usually $5/day but haggling or extended rental times can get you a lower price. Bikes are everywhere and work well for getting around, especially if you make sure to get one with a front basket for groceries, breach gear, or a kid. Gears aren't necessary. Taxis hang out in the center of town and will take you anywhere you want to go up and down the coast. When taking a taxi, make sure to negotiate your price ahead of time. Most of the taxi drivers know the area extremely well and can find their way with just the name of your hotel.

See
Tropical forest surrounds the village and palm trees line the beach, adding to Puerto Viejo’s natural beauty. Travelers can glimpse spectacular wildlife in Cahuita National Park or the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge, which border the town to its north and south, respectively. Just south of Puerto Viejo, visitors will discover the sublime beaches of Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita and Punta Uva. The road connecting the villages has been paved, but has many potholes and bumps, causing bikes and cars to swerve unexpectedly. The road is shared by cars, pedestrians, bikes, buses, dogs and motorcycles, creating a dangerous yet social experience in every trip. Beachfront cabins, restaurants and shops line the street, almost all the way to Manzanillo. There is no shortage of accommodations in the area; numerous budget hostels cater to surfers and young backpackers that frequent the area, while posh resorts offer comfort and luxury along with impressive ocean views.

Black and white sand beaches extend for miles; they are wide and often deserted, offering stretches ideal for walking and sunbathing. Snorkeling is excellent when the water is calm, and nearby Cahuita and Manzanillo are home to beautiful, living coral reefs that provide some of the best snorkeling in Costa Rica.
 * The beaches are gorgeous, but like everywhere in Central America, watch those riptides.
 * There are beautiful birds, butterflies and animals to be seen.
 * Refugio de gandoca de Manzanillo: the beauty of this refuge is incredible because of its forest, lagoons, coral, reefs and white sand beaches and is the most exotic place of the entire South Caribbean coast. This refuge protects 4500 ha of sea; 15 km of coast and 5000 ha of plants and hills which maximum height is 115 m.
 * Indian reserve in High talamanca and rite with shaman.
 * Indian reserve in High talamanca and rite with shaman.

Do

 * Cocles beach (Playa Cocles) lies 1.5 km from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a small village known for its mixture of indios Brì Brì, Caribbean black culture, and sheltered by Gandoca-Manzanillo natural reserve on the brink of the Panamanian border.All the wonders of primordial tropical paradise can be found here: palm trees swinging on tranquil beaches, the tones of purple, orange and red merging into the sea at sunset, accompanied by a soundtrack of reggae, calypso music and exotic birdsong. The region extends from Limon to the border with Panama. Fine beaches will receive you with its white sand, yellow, grey and black.
 * Cocles beach (Playa Cocles) lies 1.5 km from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a small village known for its mixture of indios Brì Brì, Caribbean black culture, and sheltered by Gandoca-Manzanillo natural reserve on the brink of the Panamanian border.All the wonders of primordial tropical paradise can be found here: palm trees swinging on tranquil beaches, the tones of purple, orange and red merging into the sea at sunset, accompanied by a soundtrack of reggae, calypso music and exotic birdsong. The region extends from Limon to the border with Panama. Fine beaches will receive you with its white sand, yellow, grey and black.
 * Cocles beach (Playa Cocles) lies 1.5 km from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a small village known for its mixture of indios Brì Brì, Caribbean black culture, and sheltered by Gandoca-Manzanillo natural reserve on the brink of the Panamanian border.All the wonders of primordial tropical paradise can be found here: palm trees swinging on tranquil beaches, the tones of purple, orange and red merging into the sea at sunset, accompanied by a soundtrack of reggae, calypso music and exotic birdsong. The region extends from Limon to the border with Panama. Fine beaches will receive you with its white sand, yellow, grey and black.
 * Cocles beach (Playa Cocles) lies 1.5 km from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a small village known for its mixture of indios Brì Brì, Caribbean black culture, and sheltered by Gandoca-Manzanillo natural reserve on the brink of the Panamanian border.All the wonders of primordial tropical paradise can be found here: palm trees swinging on tranquil beaches, the tones of purple, orange and red merging into the sea at sunset, accompanied by a soundtrack of reggae, calypso music and exotic birdsong. The region extends from Limon to the border with Panama. Fine beaches will receive you with its white sand, yellow, grey and black.
 * Cocles beach (Playa Cocles) lies 1.5 km from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a small village known for its mixture of indios Brì Brì, Caribbean black culture, and sheltered by Gandoca-Manzanillo natural reserve on the brink of the Panamanian border.All the wonders of primordial tropical paradise can be found here: palm trees swinging on tranquil beaches, the tones of purple, orange and red merging into the sea at sunset, accompanied by a soundtrack of reggae, calypso music and exotic birdsong. The region extends from Limon to the border with Panama. Fine beaches will receive you with its white sand, yellow, grey and black.

Eat

 * Chili Rojo, British-run Thai fusion cuisine. Sushi night every Monday: all you can eat sushi for only ₡6,000. Located on the top floor of the shopping center on the main street, across from A.T.E.C. Great views from the balcony bar.
 * De Paso, Argentinian-run restaurant on the wooded path to Cocles, 20 m from the beach. Excellent tacos and daily seafood specials. They are well known for their baked goods.
 * Pan Pay, Right on the beach front. Good Bakery. breakfast, excellent coffee, decent prices. Run by two guys from Spain. A very popular spot in the morning.
 * Pizza Boruca, Tasty pizza by the slice. They also sell delicious Argentinian empanadas.
 * Soda Lydia, Casados with Caribbean Sauce. Good value.
 * Soda Lydia, Casados with Caribbean Sauce. Good value.

Sleep
Instead of huge hotels, there are lots of ecolodges from basic to luxury, and lots of places to eat and party. Many hotels are located along the coastal road going to Manzanillo.

Go next
The small road goes further south through villages like Cocles and Punta Uva, both with small houses for rent.