Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales is a town of 19,000 people (2012) in Chile, the gateway to trekking in Torres del Paine or Bernardo O'Higgins National Parks. It offers good infrastructure, especially a few trekking shops and not-so-cheap supermarkets (although you'd do better to get your gear in Punta Arenas).

Understand
Puerto Natales features a couple of characteristics that visitors should be aware of. One is that the population is largely descended from immigrants from Chiloé, and the "chilote" tendencies (cooking, building style) are evident. Another characteristic is that there are very strong communist/leftist affiliations in this town, so take this into account by being careful with your conversations involving related politics. Aside from the Chilotes, you will find many surnames of British and Croatian descent.

Although Puerto Natales is not very interesting, it is an ideal basis for a trek in Torres del Paine National Park. The city is the last chance to get food (in the supermarkets) and gas at reasonable prices before the park, where you are to pay double for those goods.

The city is built along the very beautiful Señoret Channel, which connects Almirante Montt Gulf to the south with Última Esperanza Sound to the north.

The Navimag ferry ship to Puerto Montt departs from here.

Climate
Whatever the season you choose to travel, be prepared for harsh weather conditions, not only cold, but wind and strong sun. You can have the four seasons in the course of a day! During late spring and summer, it can get very windy.

Get in
Bringing fruit, vegetables or animal products from Argentina into Chile is not allowed. Chilean border officials always check luggage, especially if you are a tourist, and if they find anything which is not declared in the form you are asked to fill in, you will have to pay a fine and will have your goods confiscated.

By plane
There is a small airport about 10 km from the city center, on the road to the Torres del Paine National Park. During the high season, i.e. from September to April, there are flights connecting the city with Puerto Montt and Santiago.

There is a private bus to get into the city (CLP 4,000 per person) and also taxis. Buses are convenient, they leave as the flights arrive and drop you directly at your hotel. Buy a ticket from the counters - there's one in the baggage pickup area, but the taxi-looking booth in the public section of arrivals also sells them.

By bus
Buses arrive and depart from Rodoviario Puerto Natales, a 10 minute walk away from the central area.

Daily buses arrive from El Calafate, (Argentina) (about six hours).

Buses arrive and depart several times a day from Punta Arenas, Chile. The trip takes about three hours. There are several companies including Buses Fernandez, but it's easiest to book the tickets in person at the bus company's location in Punta Arenas depending on your schedule. Those who can may be able to get the regular bus diverted via the airport saving them a trip to Punta Arenas centre. Most bus companies will do this, but you should ask when you purchase your ticket.

Buses and tours depart to Torres del Paine, El Calafate and El Chalten through several agencies in town, during summer book ahead.

By car
It is possible to drive from Rio Gallegos, Argentina, to Puerto Natales. This takes 5 hours and the road is entirely paved.

From El Calafate, the road is entirely paved too, and the trip takes less than 4 hours.

On foot
This is a small, waterside town that is easily accessible on foot. Most services are found between a sort of triangle formed by Manuel Bulnes street to the west, Pedro Montt street (costanera) to the north and Bernardo Philipi to the southeast. In the junction of Philipi and Bulnes streets, there's Baquedano Street, where you can find fruitshops, internet cafés, pharmacies and call centers. If you keep walking you find Plaza O´Higgings between Miraflores and Yungay, around which you can find budget lodges.

The Plaza de Armas (square) is a large open area between Eberhard and Bories, around which you can find the municipal buildings, the church, the post office, some pubs and restaurants and a bank.

If you walk up along Miraflores street to the "sector alto", you will reach Santiago Bueras Avenue, where you can get nice views of the city and the scenic beauty that surrounds it.

Following the coast direction to the harbour, there is a boat cemetery.

Colectivo
Taxis colectivos are shared taxis, although entirely black (taxis have a yellow roof), running on fixed routes like buses (which are not found in this city) with a roof sign indicating the destination. They charge about 450 pesos. Since the bus terminal is far on foot from downtown Natales, colectivos are a good option to get there because they are cheaper than taxis (which tend to charge more to tourists).

Taxi
Also known as radio-taxis, are fast in case you feel asleep and don't want to miss your bus to Punta Arenas or El Calafate and are also a good option to visit Mylodons Cave or Cerro Dorotea (Dorotea Hill). They usually charge 1000 pesos during the day and 2000 pesos at night, for destinations within the city. They are not metered as in Santiago or Punta Arenas, so always ask: ¿Cuánto cuesta la carrera? (How much is the ride?) so that you agree upon a fare in advance.

Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking works very well in Puerto Natales. Easy to get a ride to Torres del Paine (start early, around 8am), Cueva del Milodon or even direction to Cerro Dorotea and Punta Arenas. To go into the park, its better to go by Cerro Castillo. The road is nicer from Cueva del Milodon but its easier to enter without paying from Laguna Amarga

Do
See the harbour, do a trek in Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno, Milodón Cave, catch a boat on one of the lakes.

There are guided rentals of motorcycles (Kawasaki KLR650) for adventure tours of southern Patagonia, including Tierra del Fuego. The owner has been riding Patagonia since 1978 and takes clients to points that many tourists would miss including scenic spots; also good breaks in places with good cappuccino). Inquire via patagonia2004@hotmail.com    You must be an experienced off-pavement rider in good physical and mental condition and have a motorcycle cert on your licence.   You must plan ahead and bring your own riding gear.

Buy
The two larger supermarkets (Unimarc and Don Bosco) stock foods that are needed by trekkers/backpackers, including lightweight soups, precooked "ramen" noodles, hard cheeses, gorp components (dried fruits and nuts), Snickers bars, and powdered drinks. Freeze-dried products are available in several outdoor shops for about US$10 per package.


 * Miriam Parra handicraft, Manuel Bulnes. Great handicrafts excellent quality situated on one of the main roads in Natales. Everything from sheep skin to wooden craft.

Drink
The water quality in Natales is not particularly good, though it is considered safe and healthy by the government. It has a high concentration of dissolved mineral content. The Natales municipal water is pumped from wells and the raw water is rather silty, with high tannin and other organic content. The water does not come "from the glaciers" which in any event are more than 40 km away and dump their icemelt into the brackish waters of the fjord.

Sleep
There are plenty of hostels and residentials around the town. There are also many Hospedajes. The (mostly) women of the hospedajes wait for the bus to come and try to talk tourists into their home. They have really good deals and will usually serve breakfast and store your luggage while you are trekking. Spanish language skills are useful if you choose a hospedaje.

Go next

 * Torres del Paine National Park — the astonishing Paine massif and its beautiful peaks, azure lakes, emerald forests, roaring rivers, radiant blue glaciers, and rugged mountain terrain topped by looming peaks
 * Bernardo O'Higgins National Park — the largest protected area in the country cover the fjords and canals of the west and most of the southern ice fields
 * Punta Arenas
 * El Chalten
 * El Calafate