Prambanan

Prambanan is a complex of massive ancient Hindu temples (candi) in Central Java, Indonesia. It was built by the Mataram Kingdom, rulers of central Java and defeaters of the Sailendra Dynasty.

Understand


A UNESCO World Heritage Site, in almost any other country a magnificent ancient monument on the scale of Prambanan would quickly be designated a national symbol. In Indonesia, though, it is somewhat overshadowed by the even more awe-inspiring nature of nearby Borobudur. The two sites are quite different in style with Hindu Prambanan being a collection of sharp, jaggedly sculpted towers in contrast to the vast horizontal bulk of Buddhist Borobudur.

History
The first temple was built at the site around 850 CE by Rakai Pikatan and expanded extensively by King Lokapala and Balitung Maha Sambu the Sanjaya, king of the Mataram Kingdom. According to the Shivagrha inscription of 856 CE, the temple was built to honour Lord Shiva and its original name was Shiva-grha (the House of Shiva) or Shiva-laya (the Realm of Shiva). According to Shivagrha inscription, a public water project to change the course of a river near Shivagrha Temple was conducted during the construction of the temple. It is therefore slightly later but more or less contemporaneous with Borobudur. In the 10th century the temple was largely abandoned after the Mataram dynasty moved its court base to East Java.

Most of the main temples collapsed during a major earthquake in the 16th century and the huge complex lay largely forgotten in the jungle. Following the Anglo-Dutch Java War, Java was briefly under British administration from 1811 to 1816. In 1811, a surveyor working for Thomas Stamford Raffles came upon the ruins of Prambanan by chance. The British and Raffles were not in power in Java long enough to really do much about Prambanan and looting became rife, with Dutch residents adorning their gardens with priceless statues and local people taking foundation stones and using them as construction material. Proper restoration began only in 1930 and still continues today.

Architecture
There used to be 240 temples in the complex but many of them have deteriorated or been looted leaving just scattered stones. There are three zones:


 * The outer zone is a large open space that was once bounded by a large wall (long gone). The function of this space is disputed but was probably either a park or relaxation garden or the site of an ashram for temple priests Brahmins.
 * The middle zone consists of four rows of 224 identical, concentrically arranged shrines. Most of these are in ruins but a few have been fully restored. These shrines are called Candi Perwara (guardian temples). The 224 Pervara temples are arranged in 4 concentric square rows; numbers of temples from inner row to outer row are: 44, 52, 60 and 68. There are several theories about the design and use of these shrines. Some believe that each of the four rows represent a level of the Mataram caste system and each was designed to be used by one caste only. Other theories include that these were designed to receive submissive offerings to the king or that they are simply beautifully designed places for meditation.
 * The inner zone contains eight main temples and likewise, eight small shrines. This is certainly the holiest of the three zones and is a square elevated platform surrounded by a wall with gates corresponding to each of the four cardinal points. The three main inner shrines are dedicated to Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Keeper and Shiva the Destroyer. The three main temples are called Trimurti temples. Right in front of these three main temples lies three Vahana temples, which are dedicated to the vehicles (vahana) of each god: Nandi, Garuda, and Hamsa. The two Apit temples located between the rows of Trimurti and Vahana temples on north and south side. The 4 Kelir temples are small shrines located on 4 cardinal directions right beyond the 4 main gates of inner zone, and four Patok temples, four small shrines located on four corners of inner zone.

Modern day Prambanan
Prambanan was designated at a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991 and its global profile as a tourist attraction rose markedly in the 1990s. The main Candi Loro Jonggrang is in a large, well-maintained park making this a pleasant and user-friendly place for visitors.

To understand a little of Prambanan and to get around all of the temples, you will need to set aside the best part of a full day. The complex opens at 06:00 so it is no bad thing to stay the night beforehand and get in before the crowds arrive from 09:00. This would also allow a leisurely return to Yogyakarta or Solo in the mid-afternoon taking in some of the other archaeological sites on the Prambanan plain. You will be required to wear a sarong as a sign of respect for the site. The sarong is only necessary for the main complex after which they will take the sarong back so go there first if you find the sarong warm to wear. This is a wet part of Java and a visit outside of the November to March period has the best chance of providing a clear, sunny day.

In the wake of the May 2006 Yogyakarta earthquake, some parts of Prambanan sustained significant damage. The big temple, Candi Siwa, was 60 percent damaged and subsequently renovated. Renovation of the Candis and the Prambanan site have been finished and were opened at the end of 2014 and all temples are open.

Get in
The nearest major cities are Yogyakarta, 17 km to the south west and Solo about 40 km to the north east. The main road connecting these two large cities passes right by Prambanan and this makes transport links very straightforward. The nearest actual town to Prambanan is Klaten, about 3 km to the north.

By plane
Yogyakarta International Airport is well served by domestic flights from Jakarta, Bali, other major domestic destinations and internationally from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. An airport train is available to Yogyakarta which takes 43 minutes, where you can transfer to the KRL to Prambanan.

Yogyakarta Adisucipto Airport is served by domestic propeller flights. It is 10 kilometres from here to Prambanan. The KRL train from Maguwo Station at Adisutjipto Airport to Prambanan costs Rp 8,000 and takes about 8 minutes. A taxi direct from the airport should cost about Rp 50,000 and take about 20 minutes.

Solo airport is much smaller but has several flights each day from Jakarta and is also connected internationally from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Prambanan is about 90 minutes by bus from Solo airport.

By bus
TransJogja, Yogyakarta's bus service, serves a direct route to Prambanan. The bus is air-conditioned and comfortable, but sometimes can be overcrowded. Take number 1A from Malioboro street (Rp 3,600 one way). The first one leaves around 06:00, then every 10-20 minutes. The bus may transfer to number K3J at Adisutjipto Airport, typically when starting from southern bus stops like the one near Bank of Indonesia and Borobudur Damri shuttle bus stop. The 20-km journey normally takes around 30-45 minutes, but can take an hour when traffic is heavy. From the terminal station, cross the busy road, and turn right. Walk around 500 m to the pedestrian entrance, ignoring any non-signposted vehicle gates.

There are regular buses from Yogyakarta's Umbulharjo bus station (30 minutes), as well as a wide variety of tour agency-operated minibuses shuttling directly from Yogyakarta's backpacker haunts. Local buses to/from Solo are also easy to find (90 minutes).

By taxi
A taxi from the center of Yogyakarta costs around Rp 60,000. The driver may be prepared to wait free of charge for an hour or so and then take you back for the same price, giving a total cost of Rp 120,000.

Get around
Prambanan can be fairly easily covered on foot. If the midday heat is too much, a toy train shuttles around the park for Rp 5,000.

If planning to do temples outside of the main area, having a vehicle may be preferable especially if doing more than one. Tours available.

See
The main site of modern day Prambanan complex is inside a large, landscaped park. The complex is open daily from 06:30 to 17:00. Try to get there early to beat the heat. Entry costs Indonesians Rp 50,000 and Rp 25,000 for children under 10 years old, while foreigners adults are charged fixed US$45 or Rp 400,000 on Apr 2024. See details in table below.

Guides can be hired at the ticket office for about Rp 150,000 per hour for 1-6 person(s), which is a good idea as it's a complex monument. Rp 200,000/hour for 7-20 persons.


 * Candi Siva, dedicated to Shiva the Destroyer, is the largest of the six, rising to a height of 45 metres. There are fine reliefs of the Ramayana in its forecourt and four chambers with statues. The largest chamber, to the east, contains a statue of Shiva, while the south has the sage Agastya, the west his son Ganesh (the elephant-headed) and the north his wife Durga. Durga is also known as Lara Jonggrang ("Slender Virgin"), a legendary beautiful princess turned to stone (see box).
 * Candi Brahma, to the south, continues the story of the Ramayana and has a statue of Brahma the Creator inside.
 * Candi Vishnu, to the north, tells the story of Vishnu's avatar Krishna and has a statue of Vishnu the Preserver inside.
 * Opposite the three large temples are three smaller temples originally dedicated to the vehicles of the gods. Only the statue of Nandi, Shiva's bull, has survived.
 * - translating to "rice barn temple", it is similar in appearance to nearby Candi Sewu but smaller in size. The temple is in a quite good condition, and made up of a main temple and 16 smaller ones.
 * - this temple is believed to be part of the Sewu complex, and was found in ruins in the early 19th century and the name indeed translates to "ruin temple". It's no longer a ruin as the restoration was finished in 2017. Bubrah is the guardian temple of the southern direction and has one main stupa in the middle and several small ones on its roof.
 * - this temple is believed to be part of the Sewu complex, and was found in ruins in the early 19th century and the name indeed translates to "ruin temple". It's no longer a ruin as the restoration was finished in 2017. Bubrah is the guardian temple of the southern direction and has one main stupa in the middle and several small ones on its roof.




 * Prambanan Audio Visual, inside the museum grounds, is the park's term for screenings of a film entitled "Sacred Prambanan". It makes for a fairly entertaining half-hour break with air-con. Indonesian with English subtitles. Rp 5,000 or free for foreigners.
 * Prambanan Audio Visual, inside the museum grounds, is the park's term for screenings of a film entitled "Sacred Prambanan". It makes for a fairly entertaining half-hour break with air-con. Indonesian with English subtitles. Rp 5,000 or free for foreigners.
 * Prambanan Audio Visual, inside the museum grounds, is the park's term for screenings of a film entitled "Sacred Prambanan". It makes for a fairly entertaining half-hour break with air-con. Indonesian with English subtitles. Rp 5,000 or free for foreigners.

Around Prambanan
Other than temples within Prambanan archaeological park (Prambanan, Lumbung, Bubrah and Sewu temples) there are also other less visited and less touristy temples around Prambanan plain. If you interested in ancient Javanese temple architecture, the off the beaten path temples on hill tops or in the middle of the rice paddies through villages might interest you. After your visit to Prambanan, the Prambanan Archaeological park offers the group tour to these outlying temples, especially Ratu Boko. However if you prefer going on your own, rent and riding andong, a type of horse carriage (you must state the destination, for example Plaosan temple, and bargain for the price), or by taxi (if you took one from Yogyakarta earlier that has been waiting for you since there is no taxi around Prambanan area), or by daily rented car if you rent one earlier in Yogyakarta.

The entrance of these minor temples are guarded by archaeology bureau authorities. They will hand you a guest book and expect you to fill in your identity: name, origin and your opinion. It is for statistic purpose on visitors' data for each temple. There was no specific ticket rate to enter these temples (except of Ratu Boko), however the temple guard might expect donation, but that does not seem the case anymore in 2024.





Buy
Hawkers hassle tourists near the entry gate but will generally take the hint after a terima kasih (thank you) or two.

There is a large just outside the gate selling lots of touristy souvenirs. Those shops can be found on your way out from the complex and usually will take you 5-10 minutes to navigate.

Eat
There are many good value Indonesian warungs in and around Prambanan. A good tip is to follow the local Indonesian tourists - they always know which has the best food.





Drink
Drink hawkers are omnipresent. The museum also has a drinks stand and there are benches scattered throughout the park for a quick break.

After a walk around Prambanan in the heat, a glass of fresh local juice or a pitcher of iced Javanese tea goes down very well.

Sleep
There are a few hotels here if you want to spend the night (not such a bad idea if you want to see Prambanan before the crowds arrive and before the heat of the day sets in). However, most visitors take a day trip from Yogyakarta or Solo.



Connect
The telephone area code for Prambanan is the same as Solo - 0271


 * Ambulance: 118.
 * Police: 110.

The nearest police station to Prambanan is 3 km away at Klaten although officials at Prambanan more or less take the role of policemen.

Go next

 * Borobudur, the largest Buddhist monument in the world, is an hour away by car.

Travelling other than by car: public transport is available to take you east or west from here


 * East
 * Surakarta
 * West
 * Yogyakarta