Portishead

Portishead is a large port town in Somerset with a population of about 25,000 (2018). Historically a fishing port, it underwent rapid expansion during the 19th century when it became a hub for chemical industry. It has since fallen prey to gentrification, and little remains of its rich heritage today. Modern Portishead is a residential coastal resort town in the shadow of the Portbury container port.

Understand
Portishead is just south of the mouth of the river Avon in the Bristol Channel, west of the Royal Portbury Dock which is an important container terminal surrounded by vast asphalted open air parking lots used for storage of imported cars. Fortunately the sea wall and Ashlands obscure most of this eyesore. Portisheads residential areas are undergoing rapid expansion to satisfy housing demands from nearby Bristol, despite the absence of a direct rail link between the two cities.

A touristic map (PDF, warning: 11 MB) can be download free of charge from the Portishead tourist office website.

History
The Portishead area has been inhabited since Roman times, and some flint axe heads have been found indicating evidence of a prehistoric settlement as well. Its urbanisation started in the 17th century with the construction of a fort on Battery Point hill. It played an important role during the English Civil War when the fishing town supported the Royalist side. The City of Bristol purchased properties in Portishead aiming to improve access to the Bristol Channel. The Royal Hotel, constructed in a Tudor Gothic style in 1830, was intended as accommodation where passengers arriving on steam vessels could spend the night before continuing their journey to Bristol by train. Although the vision of legendary architect and engineer Isambard Brunel to develop Portishead as a transatlantic port never came true, it paved the road for Portishead to evolve towards a seaside resort town in the 19th century.

A public wharf was built in 1814. In the 1860s at the height of the iron and steel era, it was expanded with a pier and a deep water dock to accommodate cargo vessels that were too large to reach the Bristol Harbour. A chemical works was built on the western side of the deep water dock, and a coal-fired power station was built on its eastern side. The coal-fired power station operated from 1926 until the early 1980s, and the coal ash resulting from the combustion of coal was dumped behind the station. Its composition resulted in the unique biome known today as the Portbury Ashlands. The power station was demolished in 1992. The chemical works received phosphate rock from overseas and processes it into red and white phosphorus using electric arc furnaces powered by electricity from the power station. It was closed and was demolished. Its former location is now occupied by the Portishead Volunteer Coastguard. After closure of the power station and chemical works, the Port of Bristol Authority closed the dock in 1992. As expansion of Bristol put pressure on the real estate market, Portishead filled some of the housing demand with new residential developments. Land area increased in value, and the sites of the phosphate processing works and power plant were remediated before being redeveloped as residential areas with new low-rise flats. The deep water dock was redeveloped as a marina with 250 pontoons.

Only the marina and pier remain as silent witnesses of the rich industrial heritage of Portishead and the wealth that came with their development. Not even the railways survived; the line to Weston-super-Mare and Clevedon closed just before the outbreak of the Second World War in 1940, and was dismantled to recover materials for the war effort. A naval gun battery was erected at Battery Point to defend the Bristol Channel against naval invasion by Axis forces. The other railway line, connecting Portishead to Bristol, closed in 1964. Its closure finally put an end to Brunel's dream.

By train
Getting to Portishead by train directly is no longer possible, as the last railway station of Portishead closed permanently in 1964. The nearest station is which is about 40 minutes away from Portishead by bicycle or 2 hours by foot. There are plans to reopen the disused railway track between Pill and Portishead for passenger services, but so far none of these initiatives have materialised.

A viable alternative is taking the train to which has direct connections to all major cities in England and Wales. From there, rent a bike to get to Portishead (or take your own bicycle on the train). Travel time is about 90 minutes.

By bicycle
Portishead is well connected by the National Cycle Network, with route leading to the centre of the town. From Bristol there are 2 routes. The scenic starts at the floating harbour lock and follows the Avon Gorge along the river Avon, passing through Pill. At the M5 intersection, change to to get into Portishead. This route follows the river and is mostly flat, although it's a gravel path so a mountain bike is nonetheless recommended. The alternative is route which shortcuts through Mulberry Farm. It is shorter in distance but most of the route uses roads shared with motorised traffic making it less attractive option than the Avon Gorge route.

From Clevedon there is a nearly car free route following until  and going north from there. This route passes through the beautiful Gordano Valley which is a National Nature Reserve and worth a visit on its own. Travel time is about 1 hour.

From the north, take route from Cheltenham and Gloucester until Portbury and change to  there. Route crosses the Severn river from Wales just north of Severn Beach where it intersects with. It crosses the impressive which is worth a stop and a panoramic picture.

By bus
First Bus operates services from the Bristol city centre to Portishead. Line X3 (direction Portishead) is a direct connection. Travel time is ca. 35 minutes.

Get around
Portishead is fairly small and can be easily explored by foot. The Lake Grounds, Battery Point hill, and marina are pleasant walks and free of motorised traffic. To explore the Ashlands or venture into the Gordano Valley, renting a bicycle is recommended.

See

 * 28 public art works around the marina and Ashlands development.

Do
Portishead is the scene of many festivals and events, particularly during the summer months. A free but fun activity for children is searching for fossils of shells on the beach, which are plentiful in limestone and relatively easy to find.

Buy
There is a large Waitrose Supermarket, plus a large shopping centre with all the usual chain stores including Argos and Homebase.

Go next
Map of places with Wikivoyage articles nearby


 * Clevedon
 * Bristol
 * Long Ashton
 * Avonmouth
 * Watchet
 * Weston-super-Mare