Port Moresby

Port Moresby (Tok Pisin: Pot Mosbi) is the capital of Papua New Guinea. It is the gateway to PNG, and almost all visitors to the country pass through the city. While it has a daunting reputation due to high crime rates and is considered one of the least livable cities anywhere, almost all of the locals are welcoming and there are some interesting sights.

Understand
Port Moresby is the capital and largest city of Papua New Guinea. The city is on the shores of the Gulf of Papua. Its population is around 365,000 (2011) and growing quickly. The indigenous people of the area are the Motu-Koitabu. Moresby, as it is commonly known, got its name from Captain John Moresby who arrived in 1873 as the first European visitor.

The city is quite spread out. The original colonial settlement was by the sea and this is still the port area, as well as the main business and banking district. On the hills above are upmarket residences. Closer to the airport, separated from the original town by hills, is Waigani, a 1970s development built to provide facilities for the PNG Government, which were needed for independence in 1975. Nearby are the housing areas of Boroko and Gordons, which also contain most of the large shops.

Get in
Port Moresby is the main point of entry into Papua New Guinea for air-traffic and most of the boat-traffic.

By plane

 * Air Niugini flies from Cairns, Sydney and Brisbane, Australia; Fiji, Honiara, Palau, Solomon Islands; Manila, Philippines; Tokyo (Narita), Japan; Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong
 * Citilink flies from Denpasar
 * Philippine Airlines flies from Manila
 * PNG Air flies from Cairns
 * Qantas flies from Brisbane, Australia
 * Solomon Airlines flies from Honiara
 * Solomon Airlines flies from Honiara

Airfares from Australia can be quite cheap. From other countries fares are fairly expensive and it may be cheaper to fly to Brisbane or Cairns and fly to Port Moresby from there.

The airport is modern, and immigration and customs are relatively smooth (as long as you have the correct visa), especially as the staff are extremely friendly; however, delays are common when multiple flights arrive at once. There is an ATM next to the baggage carousel and another one in the main hall, along with a money changer, phone shops, and a café. If you are transferring to a domestic flight you might have to rush as you have to exit the international terminal, turn right and walk 300 m to the domestic terminal. If you are flying Air Niugini domestically, you can check in at their transfer desk next to the other check-in desks in the international terminal, then walk over to the domestic terminal.

All major hotels will provide airport transfers - make sure they know your arrival time and whether you will be at the international or domestic terminal. In addition, a bus connects the airport with downtown Port Moresby, taking 30 minutes. Taxis are outside the terminals and can transport you to downtown Port Moresby in around 20 minutes and 80 PGK.

Get around
For a tourist, the attractions in Moresby can be spread out. There is little 'attraction' in the CBD and walking around will not get you very far. It is nice to walk along Ela Beach and around market areas but otherwise you will be reliant on motorised transport. There is the odd push-bike around the place, though finding one for hire may be a challenge.

By PMV
The locals rely on mini-buses (known as Public Motor Vehicles) that service all parts of the city. Whilst cheap, some drivers do not mind over-loading their vans. All PMVs have their route number and destination printed on - it is easy to ask locals where the buses go, they'll be happy to help and warn you.

By car
Car rental agencies are available close to Jacksons International airport but driving in Port Moresby might not be what most people are used to. In some areas of POM the locals throw stones at the car, usually just for amusement but in some cases they manage to crack your windshield. There are cases of people standing in the middle of a stretch of road they have mended and demanding compensation from people driving by, and as soon as you get outside of the city the roads deteriorate to muddy trails that only a 4x4 with an experienced driver should attempt. If you want to see the sights near Moresby such as Crystal Rapids near Sogeri or the start of the Kokoda, a 4x4 is highly recommended.

By taxi
There are numerous taxis (some 'teksis' too) around Moresby and calling one from your hotel will bring one promptly. You can try your luck hailing one but if you want to feel safe arrange a friend or your hotel to call a reliable driver - there is a genuine risk of robbery that can be avoided if the hotel knows exactly who you went with. When you get a good driver, take their phone number down for future trips. Taxis often have meters but they are rarely used, so agree on a price as you get in. Short trips might cost K10-20, trips from Waigani to Ela Beach might be K40-50 and to the airport anything from K50-100. Taxis might be willing to wait for you at shops and can agree on an hourly rate.

Through your hotel
The easiest and safest way to get around is by organising transport through your hotel. Most will offer transport to the main attractions in town, such as the Port Moresby Nature Park or Papua New Guinea National Museum & Art Gallery. Get the phone number of the driver and call them once you've finished to be picked up.

Do

 * Scuba diving – A number of reefs and wrecks are within close proximity to Port Moresby and diving can be arranged through day vessels or on nearby Loloata Island (which has its own dive shop). There are a variety of sites and depths for all experience levels.


 * Swimming – A popular spot with the locals, the Taurama Aquatic and Indoor Centre is a modern sports complex opened in 2015, home to two outdoor pools (25 m and 50 m long) and six Olympic standard volleyball and basketball courts.



Groceries
There are basically four stores to buy groceries if you are a foreigner in Port Moresby: Andersons Foodland, now called SVS Harbour City, Stop and Shop in Hohola, and Boroko Foodworld in Boroko and Gordons. Andersons is next to the Royal Papua Yacht club and usually suffices. Otherwise there is Foodworld which is larger and located over the hill in Boroko. An even larger and newer Boroko Foodworld is further east in Gordons. Port Moresby's shopping mall is Vision City in Waigani. There is a large hypermarket called RH selling anything from household furniture to baked beans. Their supply is abundant and the quality is good and prices are competitive. Imported goods might not always be there. Often if you see something you like you have to buy a lot of it because there is no telling when the next shipment is coming. This doesn't apply to basic foodstuffs but rather to things that might not be in high demand such as herring. RH has basically closed this gap.

Drink
The drink of choice in Port Moresby as in the rest of Papua New Guinea is South Pacific lager: "SP beer". However, once that cultural experience is done, you will probably prefer to move on to the more refined 'SP Export' lager, or 'Niugini Ice' beer. To buy alcohol you have to go to one of the characteristic yellow and green coloured shops that are usually integrated into the supermarkets. You don't want to go to the ones that aren't. They have a relatively limited selection of wines, mostly Australian or New Zealand brands. The prices are higher than you would expect because of the taxation of alcohol. The locals tend to get quite rowdy when they drink (as everywhere else) so it's best to avoid anyone that seems to be under the influence. Typically most expats drink at hotel bars or sports club bars, which have a more relaxed atmosphere.

Sleep
Hotels are generally quite expensive in Port Moresby, and the quality of accommodation can be disappointing. Research hotel options before you book to check current standards and arrangements for airport transfers. Due to the security situation it's likely that you won't leave your hotel after dark, so choose one with good dining and recreation options.



Stay safe
Port Moresby is well known for its crime. Carjackings, muggings and worse are common. Women are particularly at risk. Foreigners are sometimes specifically targeted. As such, it has been rated as one of the least livable cities in the world.

There is a great deal of concern about the level of crime and civil disorder and about the ability and willingness of the police to cope. Police officers have been found to be complicit in major crime. Police brutality against minor offenders, complainants and witnesses has been the subject of criticism from the international group Human Rights Watch.

It is possible to minimise the chances of becoming a victim of crime by being aware of your surroundings, avoiding places where large groups are gathered and avoiding places where offences are prevalent. The Waigani area, particularly the area around the traffic lights and the Port Moresby Golf Club, has experienced numerous carjackings. The Morata district is well known by locals for its riots during the weekends. It's best to not walk between locations in Port Moresby, or travel at night.

Still, the local people are mainly friendly and peaceful. The main risks are from idle young people, mostly having fun and struggling for money. But traditionally, a wrong or bad or negative behaviour often has the other side of the mirror, which is known as "pay back", also called in some cases compensation, but always wild and violent.

It is always wise to seek the advice of a person familiar with Port Moresby before venturing into unknown areas.

Saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) are still common throughout all of Papua New Guinea. However, you are extremely unlikely to run into one.

Embassies & consulates
A listing of the embassies and consulates in Port Moresby is available on embassypages.com. These include:
 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇮🇩 Indonesia
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇳🇿 New Zealand
 * 🇵🇭 Philippines
 * 🇹🇼 Taiwan
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next
With relatively few attractions, Moresby is usually just a stopping off point for tourists heading to other parts of PNG. The whole country could be listed under Go next. For major locations see Papua New Guinea. Possible day trips from Port Moresby include:


 * Sogeri Plateau. 50 km from Port Moresby and, at 800m, an escape from the heat. Sogeri marks the end of the Kokoda Trail, which was the route through the jungle taken by Japanese soldiers in 1942 in an attempt to capture Port Moresby. You may encounter some attacks by young people hiding in the park. The main opportunity is to visit this very pleasant place by groups of at least 20 people.
 * Yule Island. A small island just off the coast of Central Province, a two-hour drive west of Port Moresby. This was one of the first areas of PNG to have European contact. Catholic missionaries settled in 1885. They were joined by Filipino catechists and, as a result, the people of the area often have distinct Filipino features. It is a popular spot for a relaxing getaway and for good seafood.
 * The Kokoda Track. Walked by over 4,000 people a year, you'll be able to recognise them on the flight to Port Moresby by their wearing of hiking boots on the plane. The 96-km track is usually walked in guided groups over 6-12 days, largely following the paths used by Japanese and Australian troops who fought here in 1942. Along the way are numerous small villages, providing one of the best ways to see traditional Papua New Guinea life in a safe environment. The track starts and ends at Owen's Corner, an hour by bus from Port Moresby, and finishes and starts at Kokoda on the other side of the Owen Stanley Ranges, a 45-minute flight from Port Moresby. The only way to travel between the two is by foot, under and down endless muddy hillsides.