Pondicherry

Pondicherry (Tamil: புதுச்சேரி Putucceri, French: Pondichéry), also known as Puducherry or Pondy, is a city and an enclave within Tamil Nadu, India. There is a strong French influence on the architecture of the city, especially in the old quarters, with rues and boulevards lined with Mediterranean-style houses and bakeries, although the city remains very much Indian. French is still understood, and the whole city makes for a pleasant mix of the East and the West.

Understand
Pondicherry, though small in geographical size, was the largest French colony in India. The city has a long and interesting history of trade and war. It is also known as The French Riviera of the East (La Côte d'Azur de l'Est). If you have spent some time in Tamil Nadu and approached Pondicherry by land, you will very likely experience mild culture shock on discovering French architecture and restaurants serving steak and good wine. Pondicherry is very much a city with a dual personality: crossing the central canal from the east to the west reveals two different cities with very different characters.

Talk
Tamil is the main language spoken in Pondicherry. The city was essentially a French possession in the Tamil-speaking area of the region. You need to be able to speak Tamil if you wish to live in Pondicherry.

Expect to be able to get quite far in South Asia as an English-speaking tourist. Persons in Pondicherry with a university education may be able to converse with you in English.

French is no longer an official language or widely spoken in Pondicherry and has been largely replaced by English, but can still be heard among upper class elderly persons raised during French colonial rule. However, the city's French heritage is considered an aspect of life in Pondicherry that draws tourists from the surrounding regions. Telugu and Malayalam are also official languages, but their use is generally confined to specific communities.

By car
Pondicherry is well connected from all sides. Chennai is 160 km north of the city.

You can also hire a taxi from Chennai International Airport. It costs around ₹2,500 (Indian rupees), as of August 2018.

The road from Chennai to Pondicherry (the East Coast Road, commonly called ECR) is a scenic highway and a normal journey would take about 3 hours. Most tourists, however, cannot resist the seashore kissing the ECR and take a number of stops en route. This route passes through Mamallapuram, Kalpakkam, Pudupattinam, Idaikkazhinadu (Alamparai or Alambara Fort), Mudaliarkuppam, which has a boat house, Marakkanam (contains large areas under salt pans), and Kanagachettikulam/Kalapet.

Another road from Chennai to Pondy is National Highway 45 (NH45), also called the Grand Southern Trunk (GST) Road. This route passes through Tambaram, Chengalpattu, Madhurantakam, Melmaruvathur and Tindivanam.

The ECR Road and NH45 are tolled roads. The journey from Chennai to Pondicherry takes about the same amount of time on each road.

Pondicherry is about 320 km away from Bangalore. Drive down National Highway 7 (NH-7) till Krishnagiri, take a left off the main highway (road signs mark the route) and then take National Highway 66 (NH-66) to Pondicherry. This route passes through Uthangarai, Chengam, Tiruvannamalai, Gingee and Tindivanam. You can reach Pondicherry either through Tindivanam (via Gingee) or Villupuram (via Thirukovilur). Gingee Fort is also on the way to Tindivanam and worth spending some time at. It's an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) Heritage site. The total travel time should be about 5-6 hours. Pack some food or snacks for the way as there are no good restaurants en route.

Pondicherry is well connected to Cuddalore, Chidambaram, Karaikal, Nagapattinam, Velankanni, etc. to the South by National Highway 45A (NH-45A). The road is well maintained till Chidambaram.

Pondicherry connects to the GST or NH-45 in two places: at Villupuram by NH-45A and at Tindivanam by NH-66.

By coach
There are many coaches connecting to Pondicherry from a variety of cities. Getting to Pondicherry involves a 3½-hour road journey from Chennai by bus. One can board a bus from Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus (CMBT) in Koyambedu, Thiruvanmiyur or Guindy. You can be sure of getting a seat on the bus only if you board it from CMBT in Koyambedu, which is the main bus terminus in Chennai. However, the cheapest way of reaching Pondicherry from Chennai is taking the East Coast Road (ECR) bus from Tiruvanmiyur. The fare from CMBT is around ₹150 depending on the bus service. PRTC (Puducherry Road Transport Corporation) operates air-conditioned buses and the fare is ₹280. The ECR bus will drop you at the main bus terminal in Pondicherry, on Maraimalai Adigal Salai. Auto-rickshaws are available from outside the bus station. The fare can be bargained down to ₹50 to go to the French Quarter.

Nearly all cities in Tamil Nadu are connected to Pondicherry through cheap government buses that will stop at smaller towns and villages, though no centralized timetable exists and departure times and routes must be obtained from the nearest bus station to where you are. These buses will almost certainly arrive at the Pondicherry Bus Stand.

Private coaches will connect to Pondicherry from a variety of cities including Chennai and Bengaluru. The coaches along the ECR from Chennai are well frequented and a variety of coach types, from regular urban-city-bus to semi-sleepers and full-sleepers. There are long-distance coaches to Mumbai and other cities in India too. It is possible to find out which buses are available from the Redbus website.

By train


Bangalore Yesvantapur (YPR) to Pondicherry (PDY) is connected by a 3-tier AC train called Garib Rath Express. It covers a distance of 456 km in each direction however it takes 10 hr 5 min when operating as train number 12255 at an average speed of 60 km/h (excluding halts). It leaves Puducherry as train number 12256 on Saturday at 10:05PM and at the end of 8 halts arrives at Yesvantapur the next day at 08:25. It leaves Yesvantpur as train number 12255 on Friday at 23:15 and at the end of 9 halts arrives at Puducherry the next day at 09:20AM. Coach Composition comprises 16 AC 3 tier coaches and 2 luggage cum generator coaches taking the total up to 18 coaches.

By plane


Chennai Airport is the nearest international airport, which is approximately 135 km from Pondicherry. Chennai airport is nicely connected to major cities in India as well as abroad. A one-way cab ride from Chennai airport to Pondicherry is approximately ₹1,500 and takes around 3 hours.

By bicycle or motorbike
Pondicherry has narrow streets reminiscent of Western Europe. It is highly advisable that you do not attempt to drive around in a car, and instead purchase or hire a two-wheeled transport vehicle, such as a bicycle or motorcycle. It can however be difficult to ride smoothly in Pondicherry due to the significant number of pedestrians on smaller streets, while roads would likely be used by cars and trucks. Pedestrians have the right-of-way in the city.

There are several rental outlets on Mission St and MG Rd. The prices as of January 2016 are ₹300/day for a gearless scooter (light motorcycle) and ₹500/day for a geared motorcycle and ₹40-50/day for a bicycle. You will need to provide some identification documents as collateral and an advance of ₹500 only in a few rental service shops while the rest of them provide without documents or advance. Make sure you check the cycle thoroughly before taking it on rent. Many of the rentals also provide delivery and pickup at the hotel which is very useful. Usually, the number of days for these vehicles is calculated 9AM-9PM. The motorbikes are easily available in a couple of two-wheeler rental shops on Mission Street.

By bus or shared auto-rickshaws
The Pondicherry Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) has daily bus services for tourists and it covers all the important tourist spots to be seen in Pondicherry. It is the best and most economical way to tour Pondicherry.

There is a sparse network of buses and shared-auto-rickshaws that can be ridden for ₹5-20 per ride depending on the distance.

Shared-auto-rickshaws can be found at the bus stand, along certain points on Bussy Road and Grand Canal - the most common route is from the bus stand, along Bussy Road, around Grand Canal, and then back up Bussy Road to the bus stand - but be sure to ask if the auto goes to your destination as not all autos will follow this route. The services in informal and unorganized so it is impossible to centralise the timetables.

See

 * Chunnambar Boat House - (which is crowded on holidays and weekends) 10 km south of the city on the way to Cuddalore and connected by local buses. You can take a motorboat to Paradise Beach from here.
 * Chunnambar Boat House - (which is crowded on holidays and weekends) 10 km south of the city on the way to Cuddalore and connected by local buses. You can take a motorboat to Paradise Beach from here.

Temples
Most temples in Pondicherry were built during the Chola period, predating the French invasion in the area.

Do
There is not much one is expected to do at Pondicherry. You would understand this better once you get there and understand the pace of life. You can also do some serious meditation at the Auroville, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, or go to Bharatanatyam performances that are often organized there by the Auroville Cultural Exchange in the local temples, or at major hotels. You can also go fishing in a Catamaran or while away your evenings at Rocky Beach. You can also hire scooters (mopeds) and go on long drives to the sandy beaches that dot the coastline.

You can also experience staying in a traditional 'Parapachai' house - an affectionate name given by connoisseurs to traditional green-coloured houses. First-class experience.

Buy

 * Handmade paper - The range of colours and scope of textures of Pondicherry's homemade paper is marketed all over the world.
 * Leather - Making leather meticulously is what separates Pondicherry from the rest of the cities in India. Well-polished and innovative products with quality brass buckles are available at reasonable prices here.
 * Pottery - Pondicherry is known for artisan and ceramic work. Different shops offer distinctive styles such as Rhinestone Art and Golden Bridge.
 * Textile and clothes - Pondicherry has been involved in producing garment textiles and household items for a long time. There are also plenty of stores which sell T-shirts and some well-known types of clothes at surprisingly low rates.

Eat
Pondicherry is known for its wide variety of cuisines ranging from South Indian delicacies like idly and dosa to seafood like fried fish, prawn bajji and parota.

French influence can be seen to some extent in the local food. The best options are still the local delicacies; the excellent seafood. Good French food is available at restaurants around the French part of town.
 * Anjappar, Near Jeeva Theater Signal. Open every day.
 * Aristo, Nehru Street. Nice terrace on the roof of the hotel; good French and Indian food.
 * Batisto, ECR Road, Next to D Gowda Petrol Bunk, Behind Laloo's puntcher shop.
 * Hot Breads, Nehru St, a pleasant European bakery.
 * Rendezvous, 30, Rue Suffren. Closed on Tuesdays.
 * Satsanga, 30, Labourdonnais. Open every day.
 * Sri Murugan Cafe, No. 160, Kosakada Street opposite Municipality Central Parking Place. Veg-only Indian restaurant with great dosas. You might be the only tourist here for weeks. ₹25-50.
 * Surguru, at the corner of Sardar Vallabhai Patel Rd and East coast Road, in the basement of the hotel. Has delicious Indian food, At breakfast time try the delicious poori or paper roast (paper dosai).
 * Rendezvous, 30, Rue Suffren. Closed on Tuesdays.
 * Satsanga, 30, Labourdonnais. Open every day.
 * Sri Murugan Cafe, No. 160, Kosakada Street opposite Municipality Central Parking Place. Veg-only Indian restaurant with great dosas. You might be the only tourist here for weeks. ₹25-50.
 * Surguru, at the corner of Sardar Vallabhai Patel Rd and East coast Road, in the basement of the hotel. Has delicious Indian food, At breakfast time try the delicious poori or paper roast (paper dosai).
 * Satsanga, 30, Labourdonnais. Open every day.
 * Sri Murugan Cafe, No. 160, Kosakada Street opposite Municipality Central Parking Place. Veg-only Indian restaurant with great dosas. You might be the only tourist here for weeks. ₹25-50.
 * Surguru, at the corner of Sardar Vallabhai Patel Rd and East coast Road, in the basement of the hotel. Has delicious Indian food, At breakfast time try the delicious poori or paper roast (paper dosai).

Drink
There are a multitude of liquor shops and wineshops around the city, perhaps owing to the French influence. Alcohol in Pondicherry is not taxed as it is in Chennai and is therefore significantly cheaper. At a takeaway shop, a beer should cost around ₹80-100 (as of 2017).

Good branded liquor like Smirnoff, Bacardi and different Scotch whiskies are very inexpensive as there is no sales tax in Pondicherry.

Alcohol


In addition to these listings, on the beach road abutting the French quarter enjoy fine dining in a good ambiance with continental and Indian cuisine, has a nice buffet on weekends. Mimicry artists will sometimes entertain you at your table.

Stay safe
Always carry passport with you and put a sticky note inside it with phone number of your travel consultant. Never pay anyone upfront, especially to agents or drivers.

Never exchange money with unauthorized foreign exchange dealers. Ask for receipt after exchanging money with the broker.

Don't get trapped in the narcotics trading, as no one wants to end the journey in prison. Switch off your mobile phones while in museums, temples and churches or they will be confiscated.

Wi-Fi
Wi-Fi can be difficult to find in Pondicherry. Many restaurants, even fancier ones, do not have Wi-Fi.
 * Le Cafe - On the beach front near near the Gandhi Statue, this cafe is more similar to Southern European cafes with wide range of food options in addition to drinks, and notably serves cold coffee. It has Wi-Fi for free, though note that it requires SMS verification to access and that some overseas mobile numbers may return an error (though this is genuinely a technical error rather than a restriction by BSNL).
 * Gelato Factory- As its name suggests this cafe, located a couple of streets west from the Grand Canal on Bussy Street, serves a variety of ice cream and also drinks. It has free Wi-Fi too. 337, Mission St, MG Road Area.
 * Cafe Coffee Day - This chain of coffee shops has three branches in Pondicherry, with a branch near the beach that you'll find if you keep heading north off Beach Road as it veers to the left. It provides high quality Wi-Fi but it also requires verification from an Indian mobile number. Sardar Vallabai Patel Salai.
 * Le cafe Chaplin - This cafe provides free Wi-Fi though it's less of a cafe and more of a restaurant, and serves mainly North Indian food. 80, Grand Canal, MG Road Area.
 * Citinet Internet Cafe and WiFi - An internet cafe that provides reasonable computers to surf the internet and notably paid WiFi (though only at ₹30 per use). Both the internet and WiFi speeds are reliable and good quality, especially good option if you need high quality internet and do not have an Indian mobile number. Opening times start at sometime around noon and end at sometime around 9PM. 78, 1st Floor, Nehru Street.

Hospitals

 * Jawaharlal Institute of Postgraduate Medical Education and Research (JIPMER), in the Gorimedu suburb of Pondicherry city on the way to Tindivanam. JIPMER is a Central government funded institute. JIPMER is both an educational institute and a working hospital that provides inexpensive medical care to a large number of patients.
 * Rajiv Gandhi Government women and children hospital is on the 100 Feet Road. It offers regular and emergency medical services in the departments of Paediatrics, Obstetrics, Gynaecology and Immunisation. It also has a High Risk clinic.

Consulates

 * 🇫🇷 France

Go next

 * Auroville — Nearby township, often visited as part of a visit to Pondy. A tuktuk should cost around ₹200 and a taxi ₹400 (2017).
 * Kanchipuram — The City of Thousand Temples and it belongs to 2nd or 3rd century. Today, it is mainly known for its high quality silks.
 * Kochi — The financial and cultural capital of Kerala. Overnight sleeper buses cost ₹1000-1500 (2017) and take 9-12 hours.
 * Mamallapuram — Nestled along the Bay of Bengal, it was seventh century port of Pallava kings. Several cave temples are carved here from Granite hill which belongs to fifth and eighth centuries.
 * Tiruvannamalai — Known as fifth Hindu element of fire, it is located around 107 km from Pondicherry and ranks as one of the pilgrim city in Tamil Nadu. Its name meaning ‘Red Mountain’ came from the extinct of Volcano, Arunachala.