Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap Rivers, is the capital of Cambodia and its largest city. Having been liberated in the late 1970s from Khmer Rouge oppression, the city has exploded in activity in the 21st century and now a thumping little metropolis, small at heart but big in vibe. While not yet a rival to Bangkok, it's getting there; get it while it lasts, before it becomes Bangkok.

Understand
Phnom Penh was liberated from the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, and has long remained a bit rough. Things have improved; however, some roads remain shabby, traffic is persistently chaotic, electricity occasionally strained (never mind your precious internet). But on the whole, the city is reasonably modern. The city is has gained high rise buildings and traffic lights. The beauty that made it a "Paris of the East" before 1970 is unfortunately well hidden, though a few French colonial buildings remain. The wide boulevards and promenades envisaged by the French have become parking spaces and market stalls: pedestrians are not in favour.

The most pleasant strolling is to be done along the park-like river front, which hosts cafés and restaurants aplenty. Standard tourist sights are few, which makes the city a place to watch the street life and absorb the local colour. Phnom Penh is a worthwhile destination for those who enjoy an "edgy" experience and can brave the downsides of reckless driving, noise, dust, and perennial theft.

Touts and beggars abound. A firm but polite refusal should work. Older or disabled beggars will be happy to accept 500 riel. Anyone old enough to have survived the Khmer Rouge has had a tough life. Generosity here is no bad thing. Some older people may even invoke a blessing on you for your gift. Cocky young kids demanding a dollar should not be encouraged.

The weather is hot and humid, with showers in the late afternoon in the rainy season.



History
In 1975 Phnom Penh was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then US-backed government and the Khmer Rouge. The city fell to the Khmer Rouge in 1975, who completely emptied it of civilians and allowed it to crumble for several years. The city's small class of skilled or educated professionals was systematically murdered by Pol Pot, or driven into exile.

Cambodia's developing economy and institutionalised corruption have concentrated wealth into a new class of nouveau riche that now frequent Phnom Penh's new fancy hotels and restaurants. Increasing tourist numbers are also bringing about improving tourist infrastructure.

Orientation
All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered. Some major thoroughfares also have names. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north–south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbered streets run west–east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g., the west side of what was Boeung Kak Lake).

House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially on a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number on the same street.

Get in

 * See Cambodia | Get in for general information on getting into Cambodia.
 * See Cambodia | Get in | Visas for detailed visa information.

By plane


Getting there and away:
 * By bus – Take the relatively new Phnom Penh City Bus line 3. The stop is right outside of the airport on the main road. The line runs east through the city center to the banks of the Mekong. A ticket is 1,500 riel, from the bus driver, no change can be given.
 * By taxi – From the public taxi stand taxis cost around US$12 and tuk-tuks cost around US$8. The drivers may tell you there's a fixed price, but that's not true – the fare is subject to haggling like most things in Cambodia. Grab taxis (via phone app) are now allowed into the airport and cost about US$7 into the city. If you are willing to lug your bags outside the airport fence you can catch a tuk-tuk into town for US$5 but have to haggle hard for that price. The ride downtown can take about an hour or so and is full of car exhaust from all the traffic, so think twice about taking a tuk-tuk.
 * Cope – Make sure you have smaller denomination notes to pay your taxi driver if paying in US dollars, and inspect them carefully for rips and tears before paying. One airport taxi driver scam occurs when you go to pay in dollars: after taking your note out of view the driver will rip it slightly (which renders it useless in Cambodia) and then politely reject it. The hope is that you only have larger denomination dollar notes left, for which the driver will inevitably not have sufficient change. Show your driver how perfect your notes are upon paying and make sure they agree that each note is acceptable before handing them over.

By bus
With the financial support of China, Cambodia's main roads have improved considerably. The main highways that run on either side of the Tonle Sap from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang, Sisophon, Poipet (for Thailand) and other major cities and towns are well-paved and in good condition.

The quality of buses runs the gamut, with the less desirable buses being a few dollars cheaper than more comfortable options. Safety standards are low and crashes (not always reported) are still happening, even for "quality" buses.

There is no official bus station in Phnom Penh, but transport companies are spread around the city. Try the streets just west of the central market (Mekong Express, Phnom Penh Sorya Transport, Capitol Tours, GST Express), north of the night market (Giant Ibis), or the northern part of Street 109 to find a company for leaving Phnom Penh. Bus companies will also return to these places if their office is there and when coming into the city. Beware, some passengers have experienced valuables being stolen from their luggage when stored out of sight.

Bus companies for Vietnam can be found along the boulevard south of the Olympic Stadium.

Guesthouses and travel agents throughout the city will also arrange tickets for a US$1–2 commission. Or just use your preferred booking website, like 12Go.Asia or BookMeBus.

International services
Borders are not open 24/7. Some night buses will wait at the border until it opens.


 * Bangkok – 11 hr. The bus service from Bangkok to Phnom Penh (and Siem Riep) is run by BKS (The Transport Company), a reputable Thai bus company. Buses leave Mo Chit Bus Station (buy your tickets at ticket window 22) at 05:00 via Aranyaprathet district in Sa Kaeo, where border crossing formalities are done. Return buses to Bangkok leave Phnom Penh daily at 07:00.
 * Ho Chi Minh City – 6–7 hr, hourly 07:00–13:30, around US$30. Giant Ibis is a reputable operator whose offices are centrally located in both Phnom Penh and Saigon.
 * Pakse – 14 hr. Buses arriving from Pakse enter the city at night (around 19:30-20:00) via Monivong Ave, leaving tired and emotional travellers prone to being preyed on tuk-tuk touts. Watch out!
 * Vientiane – 27 hr. A generally inconvenient and stressful trip. Contrived border procedures, multiple bus changes, tickets not being honoured, and nocturnal groping should all be expected. Travelling via Bangkok (theoretically also around 27 hr, but with tight connections) should be considered as the 20:00 Bangkok-Nong Khai (Laos border, 20 km from Vientiane) sleeper train (13 hr) will be safer and more comfortable than any overnight bus through Southern Laos.

By boat
Ferries connecting Phnom Penh to Siem Reap are suspended since COVID.

There are apparently several choices of boat between Phnom Penh and Chau Doc in Vietnam:


 * Hang Chau Speedboat (tour guide, water, snack, insurance, no pick up). Leaves from the ferry pier on Sisowath Quay, and seems to be the main affordable option other than the mythical "slow boats" (see below). Check website for schedule. Takes 4 hr, US$32
 * Mandarin Cruises, 5 hr, US$65
 * Victoria Speed Boat, 5 hr, US$65

The relevant border crossing to Vietnam is called "Song Tien landport" on Vietnam's e-Visa website, despite this place name not seeming to appear on any maps.

Many tour operators also offer a 2-nights/3-days Ho Chi Minh City–Phnom Penh Mekong Delta tour, but these are are often not worth the name — see Vietnam.

By train


One daily train exists from Sihanoukville (6 hr) and Battambang (6½–7 hr) each, with the following stops and departure times:
 * From Sihanoukville:
 * Sihanoukville – 14:00, $US10
 * Kampot – 16:00, US$9
 * Kep – 16:20, US$8
 * Takeo – 18:00, US$6
 * (Phnom Penh – 20:00)
 * Other stops along the way according to the timetable include Preak Treng Beach, Holy Hill, Veal Renh, Kompong Trach, Toukmeas, Tani, Komareachea, and Broteas Lang, but it's not clear whether the train actually stops there.


 * From Battambang:
 * Battambang – 15:00, US$8
 * Maung Russey – 16:00
 * Pursat – 17:30, US$7
 * (Phnom Penh – 22:00)
 * Other stops along the way according to the timetable include Osalao, Beung Khna, Bom Nak, Kdol, Romeas, Tbeng Khpos, and Batdeung, but it's not clear whether the train actually stops there.

The return journeys for Sihanoukville and Battambang leave in the morning at 07:00 and 06:40, respectively.

Get around
Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape. Some smaller streets and footpaths are rutted and potholed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motorbikes, sleeping people, and building materials. Street signage is clear and Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating is not too difficult.

By motorbike
Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) can be rented for US$5–6 per day, sometimes through guesthouses. Traffic is chaotic and dangerous, even by SE Asian standards. Wear a helmet and drive carefully. Two rental shops are on Monivong Blvd: Lucky Bike Rental and New Bike Rental. Accept that paying US$1–2 police "fines" is part of driving. Theft is common: park in designated guarded areas and pay a small parking fee or use a lock and chain, which should be provided.

Motorbike-taxis (motodops or simply motos) should take you anywhere cheaply. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel. Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger. Often little English is spoken. No helmets are provided.

By taxi
Taxis can be found in tourist areas such as the riverfront and Street 51 bar area in the evening. Easier, call one of the taxi companies for pick-up. Non-metered taxis still run throughout the city and can be found along the riverfront tourist area and near major hotels. Fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary; your accommodation provider may help.

By tuk-tuk


Tuk-tuks (aka remorque moto), consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheap (Per tuk-tuk: US$2–3 for a trip in the city, US$8 to the airport) and plentiful. Driving standards vary. Drivers in tourist areas may speak some English. Drivers generally do not know their way around and may stop to ask for directions.

PassApp tuk-tuks are metered three-wheeler auto-rickshaws. Several companies have apps that allow you to order one, uber-style. PassApp is one of the front-runners and works very well for visitors. It works out to be much cheaper than tuk-tuks and since the app shows the price, there is no haggling. Many of the drivers are not able to read maps so may need your help finding your pick-up and drop-off locations. The app can be downloaded for Android and Apple phones.

By cyclo
Cyclos are three-wheeled pedal cycle-rickshaws. They are slow, scenic, and traditional, though waning in number.

By bicycle
Cycling can extend the horizons of the city. Ride slowly, be visible and predictable by avoiding quick turns. Bicycles can be hired for US$1–3 per day or if staying longer you can buy a cheap Chinese-style bike for US$30–50, new or second hand. A good place to buy is in the area around the top of St105/St107, near St182. Perhaps give your bike to a worthy charity when you leave, such as Choice Cambodia, who will give it to a needy child as a means for getting to and from school. Having a bike greatly reduces the amount of annoying ride offers by tuk tuk and moto taxi drivers. There are plenty of repair places in town to fix a puncture, pump up tires or do any repair work at cheap prices. A puncture repair costs US$1.

By car
Phnom Penh is notorious for its massive traffic jams, and rightly so. In addition, traffic is chaotic and motorcyclists seemingly suicidal. Therefore, most tourists consider driving in Phnom Penh a nightmare, and it is highly recommended that you stick to public transport and not try to drive yourself around.

By bus
The city's bus network has 13 lines, see route map. The buses provide a great way to get around during daytime (05:30-20:30):
 * at 1,500 riel per ride tickets are inexpensive (note that the bus driver cannot give change, so you will need the exact amount)
 * it is safer than on motorbikes and tuk tuks, no risk of bag/phone snatching
 * with air-conditioning you are screened from heat, noise, dust and smells of the city streets

Though all bus stops have the route map for that particular bus route displayed, the free App “Stops Near Me” (from Google Play and Apple App Store) comes in handy. Not only does it show the full route map with all bus stops in English, it also tracks buses live so that you know when the next one will be arriving.

On foot
Walking can be a challenge. Remember: little gives way to big here, pedestrians come last, even on the now cluttered, once grand, wide, French-built pavements. Pedestrian crossings are generally ignored by motorbike drivers.

To cross safely, judge gaps in the traffic and proceed slowly and with care. Always look both ways — don't assume traffic only comes from one direction. Give oncoming vehicles ample time to see and avoid you. Never move hastily between rows of waiting cars, often motorbike drivers will use the space between car rows to drive and they won't see you coming, since the cars block their sight.

There is almost no street lighting off the major boulevards, so be particularly cautious when walking at night.

See
France's Cambodian colony was acquired late and largely neglected. Historic colonial architecture was limited to start with and has largely decayed. The Grand Post Office Building, Central Market and Raffles Le Royal Hotel are notable exceptions. Generally any building in good condition, old or new, will be behind a big wall and security guards.



















Money
Money changers, particular the common Wing agents, are plentiful near the central market and display their rates on boards. But also elsewhere in the city, the green Wing offices can be found. Rates for US dollars are absurdly competitive with a buy-sell spread of often less than 0.5% (not 5%!). So, it doesn't barely make sense to shop around for the best rate.

There are plenty of ATMs dispensing US dollars and riel with international cards. Typical withdrawal charges are US$5 regardless of amount withdrawn, typically US$400 is the maximum. MB Bank (St 93 cnr St 214) doesn't charge and allows up to US$1,000 withdrawal (July 2016). Otherwise ANZ Royal Bank and Canadia Bank charge US$5 per transaction, maximum single withdrawal US$400.

The Mekong Bank at 220 Sisowath Quay are happy to change big notes to smaller ones or change damaged notes.

Shopping
Popular tourist buys include silk, silverware, handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes (which are often of good quality). If you want to support businesses that are noted for supporting Cambodia's culture and heritage, look for the Heritage Friendly Business Logo from Heritage Watch, an organization that promotes the preservation of Cambodia's cultural legacy.

Cambodia may be a cheap place to buy Samsung phones as there is no sales tax, but it's best to buy from one of only two authorised dealers in Phnom Penh. One near Central Market has closed and the other on Monivong Blvd. The Samsung one-year guarantees are only valid in the country of purchase.

St 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.

The Cambodia Antiquities Law (1996) bans the sale, purchase and export of Cambodian antiques, and since 1999 the US has banned their import. Consequently, most of the "antiques" sold in Cambodia are reproductions.





What
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats not found elsewhere in the country. These include French-influenced dining and Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian dishes. Pizzas, banana pancakes, and fried rice are always easy to find.

Exotic treats:
 * Duck embryo eggs are sold at the southwest corner of Sokun Mean Bun St (St 178) and Norodum Blvd (in front of the green SSN Bldg) inside a big high school compound, together with days old hatched chicks to frogs (everything is eaten, not just the legs) dipped in batter and deep fried.
 * Skewered and grilled pigs ears, chicken claws, and gizzards are sold in the Central Market at touristy prices. Pig intestines are sold at US$1 per 100 g, cut into pieces and splattered with sauce. Grilled small crabs, lobsters, prawns are also sold in the market.
 * Chicken feet are sold in the open-air restaurants as you turn to the right at St 154 as you go northbound from Monivong Blvd.
 * Bugs and other insects, especially the grasshopper, spider/crab, and grubs and pupae stage are sold along Sothearos Blvd from 184 St to 178 St.

Mid-range
The river front hosts everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros.



Coffee
The coffee scene in Phnom Penh has exploded in the last few years with several global chains present all around. But there are also numerous small and independent coffee shops to be found.



Bars
Places to hang out after dark include St 136 near riverside, St 104 and St 108 near the St 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses. For a more upmarket bar and restaurant scene, visit an area called BKK1 that includes St 278 and St 282, near St 51 or St 308.



Budget
A good range of accommodation is available around the city. The budget traveller area was area known as Lakeside, near the now filled in Beoung Kak lake. The colony of guesthouses has been decimated, but not eradicated. Remaining businesses are desperate for clients, which makes prices very cheap. Guesthouses 10 and 11 still exist and offer rooms from US$4/night and US$3/night respectively. Services include such laundry, Internet, money exchange, ATMs, and restaurants, including an excellent Indian restaurant.

St 258 (near the Cambodia/Vietnam Friendship Park), Street 51 (near Wat Langka) and St 111 and 172 also have some good budget options, with street 278 now hosting many budget hostels and bars that were once located on the lake.



Mid-range








Stay safe
As in any big city, be wary walking alone at night.

Daytime phone and bag snatching is not uncommon. Women are the main targets. When riding in a tuk-tuk keep your phone and bag toward the middle of the tuk-tuk to protect against snatching. When on a motorbike taxi, keep your belongings between you and the driver or in front of the driver. Do not carry or wear your bag on your back!

Scammers and con men sometimes work the tourist areas such as the riverfront, Hun Sen Park and the Sorya Mall. One example: a group of men start a conversation, make friends, claim to have a relative who is soon moving to your country of origin, and invite you to dinner at their house. Once you get there, they will apparently try to trick you into playing a rigged card game for money, and if that fails then they will give you stories about sick relatives and ask money for that instead.

Beware of fake monks. Real monks don't walk around begging from tourists. Ignore them or call the tourist police (012 942 4840) if you are harassed by fake monks.

Stay healthy
As in most developing world countries, avoiding cold, uncooked food is desirable to prevent stomach upsets. Salads are also suspect at times.

As of 2019, antimalarials are not needed for Phnom Penh (unlike most of the rest of the country), but you should use mosquito repellent as there is a risk of dengue.

Unsafe sex
There are dozens of girlie bars catering to foreigners in the cross-streets back from the river. Freelance girls are picked up at establishments like Heart of Darkness, Sharky's Bar, Riverhouse Lounge, and Martini Bar.

HIV is carried by about one in eight of Cambodia's female sex workers. NGOs have got the HIV rate in the general population down from around 2% to around 1% over the past decade, but emerging liberal behaviour coupled with ignorance of safe practices may reverse this gain. Condoms are strongly advised.

Telephone
Cheap SIM cards from US$2 for GSM phones are available on almost any major street. A vendor should have an activated test card to be used to make sure your phone will operate on that network. Calls between mobile networks can be spotty and Skype calls from abroad to mobiles in Cambodia are sometimes dropped, so be prepared to redial frequently. SIM cards, phone credit and internet packages can be bought and activated at the airport located just after passing through customs. A great time and place to do so if you know you going to buy a local SIM card in Cambodia. Its a good idea to have your phone sim unlocked before leaving home. It seems all phones sold in Cambodia are unlocked. Dual sim phones are cheaply available which are useful for travellers who want to use their home sim card and a local SIM card at the same time.

Mobitel (cellcard) and Metfone have the best coverage around the whole of Cambodia. Metfone is particularly good for their internet packages (e.g. US$5 for 20 GB for one week, US$7 for 40 GB for two weeks, Jan 2020) and they allow hotspot tethering from your smart phone unlike Mobitel. Useful if you use a laptop a lot and want to use wifi via your hotspot enabled smart phone. SIM cards with these rates are available at the airport. Smart has probably the cheapest for local phone calls but not so great for internet. Dual sim phones are popular in Cambodia so as to take advantage of different deals available, such as Smart for calls and cellcard or Metfone for internet.

Most of the major networks, such as metfone, have kiosks at the Phnom Penh airport located just after walking through customs where you can buy a local sim card, some credit and an Internet data package. If so, check that it all appears to be operating OK before heading off, such as by loading up a web page and checking your balance.

Internet
Wi-Fi is available in most of the hotels that welcome Western tourists and backpackers. Speed and reliability is on par with neighbouring countries. There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most are in the 1,500 riel/hour to 2,000 riel/hour bracket (~US$0.50)

Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets. Most up-market hotels provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium. A number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents' Club (expensive), Fresco Café (under the FCC, also expensive), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel), and Metro Cafe (free).



Post
The main, impressive French colonial-style post office is at the intersection of St 13 and 102, roughly between Wat Phnum and the Riverside. Another branch is more downtown, at the intersection of Sihanouk and Monivong Blvd. Both offices offer full range of postal services, including PO boxes for affordable prices, and are open 7 days a week.

Postage for international postcards is 3,000 riel. Very nice picture stamps are available. Philatelists: ask for mix and match options. Letters and especially parcels to Phnom Penh's post office frequently go missing, or are not made available to recipients for up to one year.

FM radio
BBC World Service news is broadcast in Phnom Penh on easy to remember 100.00 MHz FM.

Cope
Bring your largest pair of sunglasses: Phnom Penh is dusty year-round (even in the wet season) and riding in tuk-tuks means a lot of the dust in your eyes.

Embassies and consulates

 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇮🇩 Indonesia
 * 🇵🇭 Philippines
 * 🇷🇺 Russia
 * 🇸🇬 Singapore
 * 🇸🇪 Sweden
 * 🇹🇷 Turkey
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Medical
Ascertain that the doctor has a Western medical degree. If not, get out. Local training is poor and treatment can be fatal. Local hospitals are generally basic, including Calmette Hospital, the city's best. A doctor's appointment should be made at one of the international clinics, which can also arrange transfer to a hospital in Thailand if necessary.

Cambodia
Sihanoukville, Battambang, and Siem Reap are within a few hours reach. Watch out for guesthouses profiteering on bus tickets. Several tour companies offer day-trips to Tonle Bati, which includes Ta Prohm, an Angkor-era temple not to be mistaken for the Angkor-area temple of the same name.

Further minor connections:

Laos
Buses to Don Det (US$19, 12 hr) leave at 06:45. The 27 hr journey to Vientiane costs US$46 and takes four different buses. The first leg is on the Don Det bus. Once over the border you'll spend hours on cramped minibuses heading to Pakse before the final stretch to the capital. The border is slow and bureaucratic, with endless form-filling and small bribes to officials, long walks hauling your luggage between windows (500 m), and no one much to assist with enquiries. There have been reports of various problems on the onward journey to Vientiane, from Lao companies not honouring tickets sold in Cambodia, to nocturnal groping.

Prices May 2012:

Thailand
Through tickets to Bangkok (14 hr, US$15–26) are generally unproblematic. You will change buses at the border. Anything more than US$15 is a bit steep given that Phnom Penh to Siem Reap should cost US$5 and that Siem Reap to Bangkok should cost US$10.

Prices May 2012:

Vietnam
Bus companies (Danh Danh, Kumho Bus, Hanh, etc.) for Vietnam can be found along Samdech Preah Sihanouk Boulevard (Street 274) south of the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh. As of 2023/2024, prices from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh are US$22–25, the same can be expected for the return journey.

The following table for bus companies from Phnom Penh to Vietnam dates back to 2012 and may be outdated: