Perpignan

Perpignan (Perpinyà in Catalan) is the capital of the department of Pyrénées-Orientales, the Northern Catalonia part of France, and about 15 km from the sea. Perpignan is home to about 120,000 people, and has two rivers flowing through it; with the Têt to the north, and the Basse through the centre. Once the continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca, Perpignan has been an economical and educational centre for centuries, and this is evident in its architecture.

Understand
Perpignan sits on the crossroads of the French and Spanish, Catalan and Languedocian cultural spheres. It was the "mainland" capital of the Kingdom of Mallorca for a while and gained further fame as a connection point between France and Spain when the first high-speed standard gauge rail line between the two countries opened from Figueres in 2010 with the missing section onwards via Girona to Barcelona and thence all of Spain opening in 2013. Perpignan gained some questionable fame in the 2020 municipal elections when a member of the far-right RN and former partner of its leader Marine Le Pen, won the mayoral election, making Perpignan the biggest city with a far-right mayor in France.

Perpignan is in the heart of the Roussillon plain, about 10-15 km from the beaches of Côte d'Améthyste (Amethyst coast) on the Mediterranean. It sits between the Corbières region and the Albères Massif, foothills of the Pyrenees and the emblematic mountain Pic du Canigou is visible to the southwest.

The historical centre has narrow streets with brick houses and one of the highlights here is the quartier Saint-Jacques with the Medieval Jewish quartier. The citadel with the royal palace, the Castillet and ramparts are monuments to the time when the city was the capital of the Kingdom of Mallorca. There's more to the old town than history, it also has many bars and a vibrant nightlife.

The outskirts of the city show a sharp contrast to the old town. In the latter half of the 20th century Perpignan grew rapidly, one of the reasons was that people moving from independent Algeria settled here. During this time many suburbs emerged, being built quickly and in a disorderly manner.

This article also covers Argelès-sur-Mer, one of the major seaside resorts in the south of France (300 days of sunshine per year). That old and lively Catalan village is built around its church and museum.

Climate
The climate is Mediterranean with hot summers and mild winters, which is evident in the vegetation. Trees include olive trees, palms, green oaks, cork oaks and pines, together with fruit trees (peach, apricot, cherry, almond and orange). In the arid higher locations grows garrigue, thymes and wild lavender.

Rain is relatively rare, though when it falls it's sometimes torrential. Such rains usually occur during late summer or early autumn. Perpignan gets a lot of sun, on average 2506 hours a year - much thanks to the Pyrenees that block rainy weather coming in from the Atlantic.

Wind patterns have names; usually it blows from the northwest, and the wind is called tramontane. The wind from Spain (southwest) is known as alber, from southeast marinada and south migjorn are rarer but these too help clear the sky from clouds.

History
The oldest traces of human habitation are from the 7th century BCE, discovered through archaeological diggings around Château-Roussillon. Made up of the remains of a home and a grave, it is known as the Ruscino site. In pre-Christian times Perpignan was an important town, first the capital of the Sordones (an Iberic people) and during Roman times a prosperous city with a forum, basilicas, thermal baths and patricians residences. The Roman name for the town was Ruscino, which has evolved into Roussillon. However, the Romans decided to move the regional administration to nearby Elne, meaning the decline of Ruscino. In Elne an episcopal seat was established.

In the early 8th century the Muslims marching northwards from Spain returned the regional capital status to Ruscino. The first reference of the city's present name was in a charter from 927, where a place named Villa Perpiniani had been established outside Ruscino. This modest village was chosen as the capital by the counts of Roussillon who had a castle built here in the 11th century. In 1172 it became part of the crown of Aragon, and the city received privileges including a local government with a great degree of autonomy.

The 13th and 14th centuries were known as the golden age of Perpignan. Christians reconquered the Balearic Islands, and together with areas in present-day northeastern Spain and south coastal France they were made into a separate kingdom, the Kingdom of Majorca, with Perpignan as its capital. Many of the grand buildings such as the cathedral, royal palace, ramparts and a sea court are from this time. In 1344 the kingdom was reincorporated into the Crown of Aragon.

Roussillon including Perpignan was annexed by France in 1463, and this was followed by 30 years of local revolt against the French. In 1493 Aragon gained control again and the city became known as Fidelissima Vila de Perpinyà - the faithful city of Perpignan. Aragon and later Spain built fortifications around the Perpignan, but in 1642 the French Army returned and in 1659 the region became part of France as part of the Treaty of the Pyrenees. The fortifications were improved again, this time by the famous architect Vauban, and also the city was modernized.

Perpignan saw warfare again during the Napoleonic Wars. As a city near the border of two European powers, many buildings were converted into military use and many others were destroyed to make the city less cramped. In theh 19th century, Perpignan was industrialized and became an economic center. In the 20th century, the town was under German occupation during WWII and received a large influx of pieds noirs, French North Africans, when Morocco, Tunisia and especially Algeria became independent in the 1960s. The resulting population growth meant that suburbs were created around Perpignan. Perpignan today remains an important economic center in southern France, as well as a popular transport hub for tourists.

By bus
Flixbus runs daily direct from Paris, taking 12 hr 30 min and continuing to Barcelona. Other services from Paris involve changing in Lyon.

Blablabus ride-shares are often the most convenient way to Girona, Barcelona and cities in southern France.

Local buses run to Argelès-sur-Mer, Thuir, Ille-sur-Têt, Le Boulou and Quillan.

Central Bus Station is west side of the railway station.

By road
Autoroute A9 (La Catalane, toll) follows the coast. From the north join it off A7 near Orange, and follow it past Nîmes, Montpellier, Béziers and Narbonne.

From Bordeaux and Toulouse follow A62 / A61 to Narbonne to join A9.

From Spain follow AP-7 past Barcelona and Girona.

D900 is the old north-south road replaced by A9. It's toll-free and goes through Perpignan city centre. It's often congested.

D117 follows the north edge of the Pyrenees, so from the west it's an alternative to A64 / A61.

N20 / N116 is the route from Andorra.

Get around
Walk: town centre is compact, and much is pedestrianised.

Buses are operated by Sankeo: their website has a route planner, timetables and maps. The network extends to nearby towns.

Taxis wait at the airport and railway station. Firms in town are Accueil Perpignan (+33 468 351515) and Alternative Taxi (+33 652 664318).

Driving: not if you can avoid it. Especially in summer, the streets are congested and central car parks are full.

Quartier Saint-Jean
Established south of the Basse River, Saint-Jean is the historic part of Perpignan. In the 11th century the counts of Roussillon established a fortress around the small church of Saint-Jean le Vieux. It's a lively part of the city largely composed of brick buildings with or without coating and small alleys and squares between them. Many streets are pedestrianized and lined by shops and restaurants.

Place de la Loge is the most famous square, and was known in the Middle Ages as Plaça dels Richs Homens (the square of the rich people in Catalan). It's surrounded by buildings of great importance during the time; Loge de Mer (court and commercial exchange), Palais de la Députation, and the city hall. In the middle stands "La Vénus au collier", a statue by painter and sculptor Aristide Maillol (1861-1944). Nearby Place de Verdun sits right next to the Castillet and around the corner is the Basse, surrounded by greenery.

In addition to walking around on your own, in the warmer half of the year there are guided walking tours departing from the tourist office, a tourist train going around the historical centre, and a boat with electric motor plying the Basse.


 * Loge de Mer next to city hall was the medieval stock exchange and commercial chambers. It's now the Tourist Office.
 * is the lively plaza at the heart of this district, lined with cafes.

Quartier de La Réal
This was the seat of royal power during the Kingdom of Majorca, and the district is also known by the name Castell Real. It's made up of the Royal Palace and the impressive citadel surrounding it and is a calm part of the city compared to the commercial parts. Some cultural institutions can be found here as well.



Quartier Saint-Jacques
Jacques I d'Aragon ordered this eastern extension of the city in the 1260s, centred on the church of Saint-Jacques. For the next 250 years it was the Jewish quarter or "Call", but almost nothing remains of that. Nowadays it has many Roma and Maghrebi residents: on a good day it's raffish and cosmopolitan, but often it feels seedy and unsafe.
 * Monument aux Morts de Perpignan 100 m east of Saint-Jacques was erected in 1924. It marks the south tip of Miranda Gardens, a ribbon of green along the line of the former city walls, arcing west towards the cathedral.
 * Monument aux Morts de Perpignan 100 m east of Saint-Jacques was erected in 1924. It marks the south tip of Miranda Gardens, a ribbon of green along the line of the former city walls, arcing west towards the cathedral.
 * Monument aux Morts de Perpignan 100 m east of Saint-Jacques was erected in 1924. It marks the south tip of Miranda Gardens, a ribbon of green along the line of the former city walls, arcing west towards the cathedral.

Do

 * Théâtre municipal is on Plaza de la República, Box Office +33 468 663354.
 * Cinéma le Castillet is at 1 Bvd Wilson next to Le Castillet.
 * Rugby Union:
 * Rugby League:
 * Saint-Estève XIII Catalan are a semi-pro rugby league team in Elite 1, the top French domestic tier. Their home ground is Stade Municipal (capacity 6000) 3 km northwest of town centre. The playing season is September-April.
 * Espace Aquatique du Moulin à Vent is a 50 m indoor swimming pool northeast corner of Parc ds Sports.
 * Espace Aquatique Arlette Franco is a 25 m pool next to Dragons Catalans stadium, at 2 Rue du Méridien.
 * Football: only amateur soccer is played hereabouts. Canet Roussillon FC play in the minor leagues at Stade Saint-Michel 10 km east of town.
 * Golf: the nearest course is Montescot 10 km south of town.
 * Football: only amateur soccer is played hereabouts. Canet Roussillon FC play in the minor leagues at Stade Saint-Michel 10 km east of town.
 * Golf: the nearest course is Montescot 10 km south of town.

Events

 * Sanch procession has taken place every Good Friday since 1461. Penitents in caperutxas - pointy hoods - march the streets of the old town, starting from Saint-Jacques church, some of them barefoot. They carry life-size statues showing scenes of the passion of Christ.
 * Sant Joan festival is a midsummer festival on St John's eve (23 June), with bonfires, fireworks and parades.
 * Visa pour l'image is a photo exhibition in September for 15 days. The main venue is at Couvent des Minimes; several other venues are historic places not routinely open to the public.
 * Jazzèbre jazz concerts are year-round, but the main festival is late Sept to early Oct.

Buy

 * Marché de la Place de la République is a food and farmers market in the main plaza, Tu-Su 7:30-13:30.
 * Marché de la Place Cassanyes has a bit of everything. It's 100 m south of Église Saint-Jacques, daily 07:30-13:00.
 * Leclerc have a hypermarket south on Ave Victor Dalbiez and another north at the Poligon on Ave du Languedoc.
 * Carrefour have five stores around town. The closest are north at 40 Ave Maréchal Joffre, and south at 16 Ave Pierre Cambres.
 * Lidl have four supermarkets in town. One is 200 m north of the station (open M-Sa 09:00-20:00), the others are further out.
 * Aldi have three branches, all edge of town.
 * Leclerc have a hypermarket south on Ave Victor Dalbiez and another north at the Poligon on Ave du Languedoc.
 * Carrefour have five stores around town. The closest are north at 40 Ave Maréchal Joffre, and south at 16 Ave Pierre Cambres.
 * Lidl have four supermarkets in town. One is 200 m north of the station (open M-Sa 09:00-20:00), the others are further out.
 * Aldi have three branches, all edge of town.

Eat


The Roussillon cuisine is a variant of the Catalan cuisine, with ingredients from mar i muntanya - the sea and the mountains. Common ingredients include fish and seafood (the "fruits of the sea"), charcuteries, the "fruits of the land" like tomatoes, peppers, peaches, apricots, cherries and of course aioli (known as all i oli here).

Classics of the local cuisine include suquet (fish stew with saffron and tomatoes), esesxaida (red salad with peppers), llagosta i pollastre (dish based on lobster and chicken), bullinada (fish and seafood pot), llagostada (lobster simmered in olive oil with sofregit - sauce), or cargollada (barbecued snails).

Iconic products include botifarras (sausage) and fuet (dry sausages) but also anxoves (anchovies), a specialty of the city of Collioure, mongetes (white beans) and olives. For dessert there are bunyetes (beignets), coques or cocas (fruit pastries sometimes with ), crema catalana, le bras de gitan (Genoese cake filled with pastry cream), rousquille (cookies with anise) and mel i mato (goat or sheep's cheese with honey).

On the wine side, the region is famous for sweet wines including Banyuls, Rivesaltes, Muscat de Rivesaltes and Maury, and high quality table wines like Côte du Roussillon and Collioure.

Drink



 * Wine: the lowlands around Perpignan produce Roussilon and Rivesaltes red, white and fortified (muscat) wines.
 * Nitos Distillery makes rum and gin.
 * Wine: the lowlands around Perpignan produce Roussilon and Rivesaltes red, white and fortified (muscat) wines.
 * Nitos Distillery makes rum and gin.
 * Nitos Distillery makes rum and gin.

Mid-range

 * Ibis Budget Perpignan Centre is a block north of the Mondial at 34 Ave Général Leclerc.
 * Hotel de la Loge is a clean simple place at 1 Rue Fabriqués d'en Nabot, 50 m south of Hôtel de France
 * Ibis Budget Perpignan North is next to the Campanile Aéroport.
 * Novotel Perpignan Rivesaltes is behind the Campanile and Ibis.
 * Hotel de la Loge is a clean simple place at 1 Rue Fabriqués d'en Nabot, 50 m south of Hôtel de France
 * Ibis Budget Perpignan North is next to the Campanile Aéroport.
 * Novotel Perpignan Rivesaltes is behind the Campanile and Ibis.
 * Ibis Budget Perpignan North is next to the Campanile Aéroport.
 * Novotel Perpignan Rivesaltes is behind the Campanile and Ibis.
 * Ibis Budget Perpignan North is next to the Campanile Aéroport.
 * Novotel Perpignan Rivesaltes is behind the Campanile and Ibis.

Connect
As of Jan 2024, Perpignan and its approach highways have 5G from all French carriers.

Stay safe
Perpignan is a reasonably safe city compared to larger and more populous ones. Being street smart and taking basic precautions should be enough to avoid problems.

However, some parts of the city, namely the district of Saint-Jacques, should be visited with caution, and ideally never on your own. No matter where you go in town, never wear jewellery or other signs of wealth. Also, don't leave valuables in parked cars.



Go next



 * Salses-le-Château 15 km north has a stonking great 15th century fortress.
 * Canet-en-Roussillon 9 km east is mostly suburbs, but has a seaside strip with fine sand beaches, a port, arboretum and aquarium.
 * Elne 12 km south has an 11th century Romanesque cathedral and the poignant Maternité Suisse site in Château d’En Bardou.
 * Collioure 25 km southeast on the Côte Vermeille is an attractive small port immortalised by Fauvist painters.
 * Banyuls and Cerbère southeast are on the old route across the border to Spanish Catalonia.
 * Eus 35 km west is a small fortified village clinging to the rocks in the middle of scrubland and orchards.
 * Abbaye Saint-Martin du Canigou teeters on a crag 55 km west.