Papantla

Located close by El Tajin ruins and the interchange city of Poza Rica, Papantla is known for its downtown square (zócalo) and its cathedral, where voladores (flyers) perform. Other specialties are its homegrown vanilla liquor.

Understand
The city was founded in the 13th century by the Totonacs and has dominated the Totonacapan region of the state since then. Papantla still has strong communities of Totonacs who maintain the culture and language

Traditional dances
For religious and secular events, two dances are definitive of Papantla. According to Totonac myth, the gods told men “Dance, and we shall observe.” The Danza de los Voladores is one of these events that was originally meant to please the gods. The ceremony involves five participants who climb a 30-m pole. Four of these tie ropes around their waists and wind the other end around the top of the pole in order to descend to the ground. Each rope is wound around the top of the pole 13 times, which times 4 equals 52 and corresponds to the Mesoamerican ritual calendar. The fifth participant stays at the top of the pole, playing a flute and a small drum. The flute represents birdsong and the drum the voice of the gods. The four who descend or “flying men” represent the four cardinal directions. The flautist begins by honoring the east, from which life is believed to have originated. This dance or ceremony has been inscribed as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

The Dance of the Guaguas (also spelled Huahuas) is mostly performed by Totonacs but also by some groups of Nahuas and Huastecs who live in this area. It is a variant of the Dance of the Quetzales. The dance represents a survival of beliefs based on agricultural and the solar year. One essential element of the dance is the construction of a wooden cross which turns in a vertical position, representing the basis of creation and the genesis of cosmic life. Dancers dress in red pants, which have been elaborately embroidered, white shirts and a decorated cloth that goes across the chest. But the most distinctive apparel is the headdress, which is a large circle of woven ribbons with loose ends hanging around down the back. The dance movements involve the stomping with the boots that dancers wear.

Get in
The ADO bus station is at Juárez 207, five blocks down hill from the zócalo.

From many destinations it is easier to transfer buses in Poza Rica than to catch a direct bus to Papanta.

Buses from Vera Cruz to Papantla (M$178, 4 hr-4 hr 25 min) leave at 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:45, 17:45, 19:00, 20:00 Buses from Poza Rica to Papantla (M$22, 45 min) leave 24 hours a day (generally one every hour, sometimes more)

You are able to check timetables and book tickets online from ADO or Ticketbus.

Get around
Hail a taxi for M$15-20 to take you around town. The taxi may have someone else in it, if this bothers you just wait for the next taxi.

Local buses to surrounding towns and El Tajín leave from the corner of 16 de Septiembre and Curato. The Papantla locals are very friendly, and will help you locate which bus to catch.

See

 * The main reason people arrive in Papantla is to visit the ruins of El Tajín.
 * The Municipal Palace, facing the zócalo, is marked by the classic-style pediment over the main entrance. This building contains two murals: one about the Totonacs by Teodoro Cano Garcia and the other by Xolotl Martinez Hurtado de Mendoza. The building was reconstructed in 1929, with remodeling done in 1979 and 1999.
 * The zócalo is officially named the Israel C. Téllez Park, which contains grass and a number of trees. In this plaza are weekend events such as the Danzón Fridays as well as live music on Saturday and cultural events on Sundays. On the underside of the kiosk is a mural by Teodoro Cano Garcia which depicts the indigenous concept of creation, as a world with four suns.
 * The Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción was constructed between 1570 and 1590 by the Franciscans. The bell tower was built in 1875, and the clock which is there was installed in 1895. The church is in the form of a Latin cross and has an entrance flanked by Roman style pilasters. On the atrium wall is a sculpted mural by Teodoro Cano Garcia which depicts the evolution of Totonac culture superimposed on the body of the god Quetzalcoatl.
 * The city has eleven murals on public buildings or private houses. The Fernando Gutierrez Barrios Auditorium has a high relief mural depicting sports in the Totonacapan region. The Chapel of Cristo Rey on Madero Street is modeled after the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. It contains a mural by Cano about the history of the city of Papantla. The Monument to the Voladores is located on a hill in the center of the city. This hill also serves as a scenic lookout and contains a mural which narrates the ceremony from the cutting of the tree to the execution of the descent.
 * The city is home to a number of museums. The Museo de la Ciudad on Pino Suarez Street contains exhibits from the pre-Hispanic, colonial and post- Independence periods. The Museo de las Mascaras has a collection of over 300 masks from Totonacapan and other parts of Mexico, in the community of San Pablo. It was founded by Simon Gomez Atzin who collected masks and ceremonial dress for many years. The Teodoro Cano Garcia Museum exhibits works by this artist and by some of his protégés. It also contains archeological pieces and elements of Totonac culture such as dress. Other museums include the Museos del Totonacapan and the Casa de Cultura's permanent collection of paintings and sculpture.

Do
Concerts and festivals are also held in Papantla, celebrating the regions Totonac culture.

Festivals
The arrival of spring is celebrated with the Festival Cumbre Tajín in March each year at the El Tajín ruins. The name translates to 'Summit Tajín'. There are modern musical concerts as well as cultural events. This is an opportunity to see Voladores from across Mexico and Guatemala perform, experience Totonac culture and watch international music acts.

In May each year the Kani Tajín festival  is held to celebrate the towns unique Totonac culture. Kani Tajín offers workshops, games, drama, shows, music, storytelling, sports, wrestling, and traditional dances.

On December 7, there is a tradition called the Dia del Niño Perdido (Day of the Lost Child). On this day, lighted candles are placed on doorjambs and windowsills. However, the major festival for this city is the feast of Corpus Christi, which features processions, and indigenous dances such as the tocotines, guaguas, negritos, Santiagueros and voladores. The first feast of Corpus Christi was celebrated in Papantla sometime between 1550 and 1560, sponsored by the encomendero of the area, Placido Perez. A secular event called the "Festival of Corpus Christi" runs concurrently with the religious rites, which includes a livestock, agriculture, industrial and cultural fair.

The Xanath Festival presents Totonac culture to the city. The festival has indigenous art exhibits, traditional dance, costumes and music. The dances are choreographed into a single spectacle which is reworked each year.

Like the rest of Mexico, Papantla celebrates Day of the Dead but has some local variations. “Ofrendas” (altars to the dead) can be set up on tables or on board which are suspended from the ceiling. The altar is called a pachau and the lack on one in the home can bring on social rejection for violating community norms. These are decorated with palm fronds, bananas, oranges, limes, anis and chocolate figures. Food stuffs include mole, candy, tamales, local breads and other regional specialties. A glass of water and “renio” (a type of local alcohol) are also placed. Day of the Dead celebrations begin on 31 October for those who had died of natural causes. On 1 November, the souls of deceased children (called Laqsq’at’an) are welcomed. Later on 1 November and 2 November the souls of adults are said to return. It is believed that the souls come in the form of insects to eat the meals laid out in offering. It is also believed that this food needs to be freshly prepared and hot. During the nights, groups of living children go house to house singing traditional songs.

Buy
Across from Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción are the principal markets, called Hidalgo and Juarez.

Eat
A small, hole-in-the-wall style-restaurant is tucked away near 16 de Septiembre and Curato. The staff are friendly, and the breakfast M$35.

Small bakery on Lázaro Muñoz, half a block down from zócalo. The owners are very friendly, and speak a little English.

Regional specialties include frijoles in alchuchut, tashuayahun and zacahuil.

Go next
Buses to Vera Cruz (M$178, time 3 hr 35 min - 4 hr 15 min) leave at 01:00, 09:25, 09:30, 12:30, 14:50, 17:10, 17:50

For many destinations it may be quicker to transfer in Poza Rica. Buses to Poza Rica to (M$22,40 min) leave 24 hours a day (generally one every hour, sometimes more).

Buses tha do not originate in Papantla may be full when they arrive in town. It may pay to book ahead at holiday times. Save a trip to the bus station by checking timetables online using ADO or ticketbus.