Paisley

Paisley is a town in Renfrewshire, on Clydeside in the Central Belt of Scotland, with a population of 77,270 in 2020. It was a major centre for textiles, mass-producing "Paisley pattern" fabrics, though all the mills are long gone. The main reason to visit is its fine abbey, founded by the 6th-century monk St Mirren, or Mirin, who also gives his name to the town football club.

Understand
During the 18th and 19th centuries, weaving technology evolved from traditional human-powered looms to great machines in mills driven by waterwheels then later by steam. The parallel advance was in dyes, to make brightly-coloured threads to weave into patterns. Red dye was especially tricky to produce, so red clothing was a status symbol. Then along came the brilliant “Turkey Red”, which was “fast” ie resistant to washing and sun-bleaching, though its extraction from rubia plant root was anything but fast. This was replaced in turn by synthetic dyes, based on the aniline or azo-compounds that heralded present-day colourings.

19th C westerners were delighted by patterned shawls from Kashmir that were based on Mughal or Persian traditional designs with a boteh motif, a decorated pear- or cone-shape. The shawls were quickly copied and mass produced, especially in Paisley where the looms could handle multiple colours. Later technology simply printed the design, often of boteh against a Turkey Red plain background. Paisley pattern became the common name for this style. It was wildly popular until the 1870s, fell out of fashion, then came back during the 1960s era of hippy orientalism. It’s again in a lull at the start of the 2020s as a “Dad’s tie” style, but it’s a strong design which is unlikely ever to disappear.

By plane
is only 1½ miles north of Paisley town centre. McGill's Bus 757 runs from the airport to Paisley Central Road and Gilmour Street every 30 min, taking 15 min by a zigzag route; you could almost walk it in that time by following Inchinnan Road straight along the White Cart riverbank. Glasgow has flights from many European and UK cities and the Hebrides. That's why faraway places like Tiree and Islay have Paisley postcodes: their mail flies out from here.

You're unlikely to arrive via Prestwick Airport 40 miles to the south, as this only has Ryanair flights to Med holiday destinations. But if you do, simply take the train from the airport towards Glasgow, which runs via Paisley, and see Prestwick page for discounts on this route.

By train
has very frequent trains from Glasgow Central, taking 10 min. The first is at 6AM and the last shortly after midnight. They continue to Paisley St James (for football ground), Greenock and Gourock (for ferries to Dunoon), to Inverkip and Wemyss Bay (for ferries to Bute), to Irvine, Troon, Prestwick town and airport and  Ayr, and to Ardrossan (for ferries to Arran). Gilmour Street station is central in town. It has a staffed ticket office and machines, a WH Smith and vending machines, toilets and waiting rooms. There is step-free access to all platforms.

station is half a mile south of the centre. This is the terminus of a separate line from Glasgow Central, running every half hour and taking 20 min via half a dozen suburban halts in southwest Glasgow (but not Gilmour St). Is this Britain's most evocatively-named railway station, snatching the title from Bristol Temple Meads? It has ticket machines and step-free access to the sole platform.

By car
The M8 motorway passes Paisley on the north side near the airport. Exits 27, 28 and 29 of the M8 motorway take you to the north-east, north (airport) and north-west of the town. The M77 passes a few miles to the south east of Paisley. This route connects to Kilmarnock and other locations in South Ayrshire. The A737 connects Paisley to Northern Ayrshire.

By bus
First Glasgow Bus 9 runs daily 6AM-12:20AM from Glasgow Buchanan station via Central railway station, Ibrox stadium and Bellahouston Park to Paisley, taking 50 min. Peak times it runs every 10 min.

Night Bus N9 runs a similar route in the early hours of Saturday and Sunday, from Dalhousie St and Central station roughly hourly 12:20AM to 3:20AM. Otherwise take a taxi for £15-20. A third option is to take the bus to Glasgow airport, which runs 24 hours, then a taxi from the airport. It won't be cheaper, but might spare you a wait in the rain if taxis in the city were hard to find.

McGill's Bus 38 runs every 30 min from Glasgow Hope St to Paisley in 40 min, continuing to Kilbarchan.

McGill's Bus 17 runs every 30 min M-Sa from Glasgow Renfrew St via Partick and Govan, taking an hour to Paisley and continuing to Johnstone.

McGill's Bus 757 from Paisley to Glasgow Airport continues north via Erskine to Clydebank, taking an hour.

McGill's Bus 904 runs hourly from Largs to Paisley, 80 min.

There isn't a bus station in Paisley, the buses stop on High St and elsewhere.

Get around

 * The central sights, campuses, amenities and football stadium are all within walking distance.


 * Bus: see above for buses to Kilbarchan, Partick, Govan, Erskine, Clydebank and Johnstone. In addition, McGill's Bus 21 / 22 runs from Paisley to Renfrew, where the 21 turns east to Braehead bus station, while the 22 winds west through Inchinnan and Erskine to Rashielee.


 * Taxis: private hire cars are white and have wheelchair access. There are ranks outside airport arrivals and Gilmour Street Station. Uber taxis ply in Paisley.


 * Lots of car hire firms are based near Paisley, as they're serving the airport. Look for independents that may undercut the on-airport well-known franchises.

See

 * Paisley Museum and Galley is closed until 2024 for re-building, along with the Coats Observatory. The Central and Heritage Libraries and the Town Hall are likewise closed; the new building will incorporate all of these. (The independent Thread Mill and Sma' Shot museums are not affected). The museum collections are in a temporary home at 9 High Street. You can view what they call "The Secret Collection" by free guided tour (M-F 10AM-4PM), which needs to be booked a week in advance online or by email to tours@renfrewleisure.com or phone +44 141 618 5129.
 * St Mirin's Cathedral (RC) is a 1931 neo-Romanesque building at the junction of Incle St A726 with Glasgow Road A761.
 * St Mirin's Cathedral (RC) is a 1931 neo-Romanesque building at the junction of Incle St A726 with Glasgow Road A761.
 * St Mirin's Cathedral (RC) is a 1931 neo-Romanesque building at the junction of Incle St A726 with Glasgow Road A761.
 * St Mirin's Cathedral (RC) is a 1931 neo-Romanesque building at the junction of Incle St A726 with Glasgow Road A761.
 * Other buildings worth a quick look from outside, but you can't enter, include:
 * - Russell Institute, Causeyside St next to the Arts Centre, is a 1930s Art Deco building now used as a clinic.
 * - John Neilson Institution, built 1852 on Orchard Street West, became part of Castlehead High School but is now private housing.
 * - Blackhall Manor from 1160 is Paisley's oldest building. It's along Barrhead Rd A726 a mile southeast of town and is now a private house.
 * - Blackhall Manor from 1160 is Paisley's oldest building. It's along Barrhead Rd A726 a mile southeast of town and is now a private house.


 * Fountain Gardens is a pleasant green space just north of the centre.
 * The tondo memorial at the junction of George St A761 and Maxwelton St B775 commemorates the handiwork of Christian Shaw (1685-1737), a weaver who brought Dutch techniques into the area and effectively founded the textile industry in Paisley. But her fame arose at the age of 11, when she reported a servant for theft of milk, the servant cursed her, and Christian developed mysterious fits. She also brought out of her mouth hair, straw, coal, gravel, chicken feathers and cinders. She blamed this on the servant, and on others, and still others, till 35 people were arraigned for witchcraft. Seven were convicted: one hanged himself, the others were hanged then their bodies burned. Their remains were buried at these crossroads and a metal horseshoe nailed over to prevent their unclean spirits arising. This horseshoe was stolen in the 1970s, as was its replacement, but the modern tondo incorporates a horseshoe.

Do

 * is on New Street, with a regular programme of events. It's within the former Laigh (low) Church of the town, built 1738. Notable ministers were John Witherspoon, who signed the US Declaration of Independence on behalf of New Jersey, and Robert Burns who campaigned for government measures to relieve urban poverty, which by the 19th century was far too great for local effort. The Arts Centre building needs a major upgrade and remains closed in Dec 2022.
 * Cinema: Showcase is three miles west of town, junction of A761 and A737.
 * Football:
 * Golf: Barshaw GC and Ralston GC are east of town, Elderslie GC is west, Cochrane Castle GC is further west in Johnstone, Paisley GC is south, and Fereneze GC further south in Barrhead.
 * , four miles south of town, is a mix of moorland, woods, and grazing pasture. Paths follow the crest of the hill as far as Barrhead and Johnstone.
 * Ice hockey: Paisley Pirates play Sept-March in the Scottish National League, the second tier. Their home rink is Braehead Arena in Renfrew.
 * , four miles south of town, is a mix of moorland, woods, and grazing pasture. Paths follow the crest of the hill as far as Barrhead and Johnstone.
 * Ice hockey: Paisley Pirates play Sept-March in the Scottish National League, the second tier. Their home rink is Braehead Arena in Renfrew.

Learn
The University of the West of Scotland is geared for adult education and offers many short courses. Campuses are in Paisley, Hamilton, Ayr, Dumfries and central London.

West College Scotland likewise offers short courses. The Paisley campus is the former Reid Kerr college on Renfrew Road; the others are in Greenock and Glasgow Clydebank.

Buy

 * Supermarkets: Aldi and Morrisons are a mile south down Neilston Rd. Tesco is a mile east on A761.
 * Farmers Market is held at Paisley Cross on the second and last Saturday of every month, stalls are open 9AM-1:30PM.

Eat

 * Usual fast-food outlets in town centre, eg Domino's Pizza. Homesick Canadians will head for Tim Hortons at the foot of Renfrew Rd.

Drink

 * Most of the night clubs and restaurants are to be found around Shuttle Street, New Street and Storie Street.


 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.
 * Distilleries: several in the industrial southwest outskirts of Glasgow, but none you can tour. Head across the Erskine Bridge for Auchentoshan on the Glasgow-Dumbarton road.

Near the airport

 * Holiday Inn Express is 200 yards east, other side of the parking lot, similar quality and price.
 * Premier Inn have another five miles east at M8 jcn 25A.
 * Premier Inn have another five miles east at M8 jcn 25A.
 * Premier Inn have another five miles east at M8 jcn 25A.
 * Premier Inn have another five miles east at M8 jcn 25A.
 * Premier Inn have another five miles east at M8 jcn 25A.

Connect
As of Aug 2022, Paisley and its approach roads have 4G from O2, and 5G from EE, Three and Vodafone.

Wifi is widely available in public places, and the Central Library on High Street has public internet.

Stay safe
Swerve clear of damnfool drunks late at night. They're blootered enough not only to pick fights with streetlamp pillars, but to mistake you for one.

Go next

 * Glasgow city centre is less than 15 minutes by train.
 * The "Costa Clyde" is a string of small resorts in Ayrshire. Ayr has Robert Burns' birthplace in nearby Alloway.
 * The three Clyde islands of Arran, Bute and Great Cumbrae are easily reached from Paisley.
 * The nearby airport has daily flights to the Hebrides.