Ouagadougou

Ouagadougou (pronounced: WA-ga-DOO-goo) is the capital of Burkina Faso and the nation's cultural and economic centre. Its name is informally shortened to Ouaga.

Understand
The dominant ethnicity is Mossi (60%), but many other tribes are also represented (Samo, Gourounsi, Lobi, etc).

Languages spoken: French, Moore, some Jula (derivative of Bambara).

The primary language spoken by the general population is Moore. However, many merchants, shopkeepers, taxi drivers, and restaurant and hotel staff will speak at least some French. In the nicer parts of town, most people speak excellent French. Some people speak English.

Climate
Its climate is classified as hot semi-arid (BSh) with the rainy season from June to September. Daytime temperatures are hot all the year, but are hottest from February to May.

By plane
Ouagadougou International Airport is the main gateway and is located to the immediate south of city centre, distance from the airport to the United Nations roundabout is less than two kilometres. The airport is quite small and, like many African airports, somewhat disorganized. National carrier Air Burkina has flights most West African capitals as well as Paris, from where Air France also offers daily service. The other European capital with scheduled flights is Brussels via Brussels Airlines. Other popular connections includes East African cities of Nairobi and Addis Ababa. Some of the best fares from Europe seem to be with Turkish Airlines.

A shared taxi, the green ones, to city centre should cost no more than XOF500, but be aware that many will ask for up to CFA 1,000.

By train
A twice weekly train operated by SITARAIL runs from the Ivorian capital Abidjan via Bobo-Dioulasso. First and second class carriages are available, the journey is supposed to take 36 hours but trains are often much delayed. Tickets are open for purchase a day before departure at the train station.



By bus
There are plenty of bus operators serving Ouagadougou but there's no central bus station, each operator has its own depot.

Transport Confort Voyageurs, on Rue de la Mosquée is one of the largest bus companies in town with connections from most regional cities as well as the neighbouring capitals. Other operators includes STMB  and SOTRAO.

Get around
Ougadougou is a very orderly and clean city, and the traffic is very civilized. The city has a grid-based street system. There are traffic lights everywhere and motorists actually obey them. The people here are proud of their country and create a good impression.

By taxi
Ouagadougou is serviced by two types of taxi: white and green. White taxis are rarer, more expensive, and exclusive. Green taxis are ubiquitous and of much lower quality, but are much cheaper to use. As there are no meters, all fees for all taxis are negotiated in advance, and you should not enter a taxi until you and the driver have agreed upon a price.

The small green taxi cabs should cost no more than CFA 300 per person during the day for straight runs on main roads. Fees increase with distance or with departures from the main routes. Be prepared to share the cab with as many people as can be crammed in, or to pay a premium rate. Cabbies may attempt to charge foreigners far more. If you have a lot of baggage, expect to pay more as well.

Prices go up at night especially to the city center (centreville). You should never pay more than CFA 1,500 per person, and this is negotiable if you have a lot of people in your group to share the cab.

Travel to and from the airport is always expensive, even if you are only going a short distance. Expect a minimum of CFA 1,500, and do not be surprised at asking prices in excess of CFA 5,000. Be firm, and you can negotiate the price considerably downward.

Although Ouagadougou is generally a very safe city, maintain the same caution that you would in any urban environment: only use green or white cabs, don't accept rides from drivers that appear to be drunk or who have cars that appear unsafe, and know that whites, obvious tourists, people with many bags, and people seeking rides at unusual hours are all at a higher risk of theft and other crimes.

See




Do

 * Cineburkina (50 32 03 28) and Cine Reale are more comfortable/safer movie theaters
 * Café Zaka has live bands every night
 * The Moro Naaba ceremony is every Friday morning at 07:15, 15-min ceremony symbolizing a Mossi historical event (preparation for battle against a rival king that stole his amulets, but being persuaded to keep peace). Ouagadougou was founded in the 15th century and became the capital of the Mossi empire. The historical palace of the Moro Naaba is located in the middle of the city.
 * French Cultural Centre, Proposes both local and imported concerts dance pieces and theatre. The bar/restaurant there is a popular meeting spot. It also features an air-conditioned library where you can read newspapers and magazines. Located on the same road as the main post office
 * SIAO (International Art and Craft Festival) Africa's most prominent craft fair, it is held for 10 days in every even-numbered year. Artisans from all over Africa attend and sell their wares.
 * Village Artisanal of Ouagadougou (VAO). This outdoor "shopping mall" of local arts and crafts is a gem. You can buy there from a huge selection with far less hassle than on the street. It also features a shady café in the courtyard.
 * Central Market a major attraction, burned in 2003 and reconstructed in a modern style. New stands are opening up all around it, though, so it's still worth a visit, especially if you are buying textiles.
 * Gounghin Market a fun place to explore, buy fabric and fruit
 * Gounghin Market a fun place to explore, buy fabric and fruit

Buy
Groceries: Bookstores:
 * Go to Marina Market (50 31 09 65) or Scimas downtown, near the grande mosque (same street, maybe three blocks apart) for all cheese, meat, ice cream, other needs (closed from 12:00 to 15:00).

Tailors:
 * Anna's Fashion near Paradisio and Petrofa station

Film developing: Lotte Photo across from Scimas takes a bit longer, but also does a good enough job.

Money:
 * ATMs for Visa cards are available. Ecobank ATMs take master card/visa cards.
 * Banque Atlantique has an ATM linked to the Maestro/Mastercard network but its ATMs only take cards issued by the bank.

Eat
Most larger cafés have food in the afternoons and evenings, but here are a few notables from the recommendations of Bobo Stage Goers and others:

African
 * Gondwana (somewhat expensive, Zone du Bois, great atmosphere)
 * La NASA - Vegan, cheap, near Pharmacie Sacré-Coeur
 * La Colombe - Vegan, cheap, serves excellent tofu brochettes for XOF1,200. Logements, avenue Babanguida, porte n°974 - just before the Rond-point des Artistes and in front of the Stade de France (+226 60 36 24 70 / 78 62 77 12)

Italian


 * La Paillote (somewhat expensive, great pizza, delivers 50 31 87 34)
 * The Belvedere (somewhat expensive, amazing pizza, Koulouba) 50 33 64 21
 * The Belvedere (somewhat expensive, amazing pizza, Koulouba) 50 33 64 21

Middle Eastern
 * Chez Simon (cheaper, Kwame N Krumah, near Jimmy's 50 33 21 46). Also International food - burgers, pizza etc.
 * Veranda Lebanese and international. Opposite Chez Simon on Kwame N Krumah.

Chinese
 * Restaurant du Chine (somewhat expensive, downtown)

American
 * ISO (cheaper, delivers 50 36 21 67)
 * Showbiz (across the street from Hotel Splendid- great milkshakes)
 * American Rec Center at the US embassy

French



Street food and snacks


All usually about CFA 250 per plate on the street, depending on quantity or if there is meat: Rice and Beans (Benga), Rice and Sauce (Riz Sauce), To and sauce, Atteike, Spaghetti, Rice and tomato sauce (Riz Gras), Snacks- Peanuts and dates everywhere, semi-easy to find dried mangoes.

Drink
There are many bars.


 * Bar DeNiro (run down, bad hygienic conditions, therefore not popular any more, more expensive, pool tables)
 * Citadelle KH +226 61 05 32 22, restaurant with wine.

Budget

 * Pavillon Vert, Ave De La Liberte quartier Dapoya, next to Point Afrique office. Has a garden and Wi-Fi, good place to meet backpackers.
 * Hotel Zamdogo, Zogona (50 30 10 69)
 * Hotel Continental across from CineBurkina (50 30 43 60)
 * SIL near Gare de l'Est on the Route de Fada, no drinking or smoking allowed in compound (50 36 48 51)
 * CACS(Centre d'Acceuil et...): On the route de Fada.
 * Pension Sarah Located in Cite An II, good place to meet foreigners.
 * SIL near Gare de l'Est on the Route de Fada, no drinking or smoking allowed in compound (50 36 48 51)
 * CACS(Centre d'Acceuil et...): On the route de Fada.
 * Pension Sarah Located in Cite An II, good place to meet foreigners.

Connect
Post Office:
 * Grande Post (Sonapost) downtown, right on the Place des Nations Unies (M-F 08:00-12:00, 15:00-17:00; Sa 08:00-12:00. No cash withdrawals on Saturdays). Other post offices seem to follow the Monday-Friday schedules, but possibly closed on Saturdays. (If you don't have a box, there is a man who packages things to be shipped for XOF500-1000. Coming in the entrance, ask at the desk on the right.) There are also post offices in Dassasgho at the corner of Charles de Gaulle and the Circulaire, and on Charles de Gaulle near the intersection with Babanguida, just down from Surface Alimentation.

Internet

 * Dependable connections next to the grand post (across the street from the Verdoyant) and diagonal from Café Zaka (next to the fish market).
 * Hole in the wall places everywhere, just ask. CFA 500-1,000/hr.

Stay safe
Loads of touts, purse snatchers and faux types at the Grand Marche. Don't go without local assistance.

If you are a foreign woman, don't tell anyone (except trusted friends) where you are staying unless you want everyone you meet to show up at your hotel or home.

When travelling, take the STMB buses: they drive slowly, but safely. SOGEBAF has the most crashes.

Embassies

 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States
 * 🇫🇷 France

BBC World Service radio broadcast in English and French in Ouagadougou on 99.2MHz FM.