Ohrid

Ohrid  (Macedonian: Охрид) is a town in southwestern North Macedonia on the shore of Lake Ohrid. A town of vast history and heritage, it was made a UNESCO heritage site in 1980. Nestled between high mountains up to 2,800 m and Lake Ohrid, it is not only a place of historic significance but also of outstanding natural beauty. Ohrid is the jewel in North Macedonia's crown.

Understand


Archaeological finds indicate that Ohrid is one of the oldest human settlements in all of Europe. The lake itself is over three million years old. Ohrid town is first mentioned in Greek documents from 353 BCE, when it was known as Lychnidos - or, “the city of light.” Only much later, in 879 CE, was it renamed Ohrid. The name probably derives from the phrase “vo hridi” – meaning roughly, “in the cliff.” It comes from the time when the town was limited in a small area on the lake side of the hill, which in fact is a huge cliff rising above the lakeshore. The town as we know it today was built mostly between the 7th and 19th centuries. During the Byzantine period, Ohrid became a significant cultural and economic centre, serving as an episcopal centre of the Orthodox Church and as the site of the first Slavic university run by Saints Clement and Naum at the end of the 9th century. At the beginning of the 11th century, Ohrid briefly became the capital of the kingdom ruled by Tsar Samuel, whose fortress still presides over the city today.

By plane
Ohrid's Airport serves 9 year-round flights to many major destinations throughout the continent. Both Chair Airlines and Edelweiss Air serve flights to Zürich. Wizz Air, a major budget airline in the region, is the main provider at the airport, with flights to EuroAirport Basel/Freiburg/Mulhouse, Dortmund, London–Luton, Malmö, Memmingen, Milan–Malpensa, and Vienna. As for seasonal flights, even more airlines serve this area: these include Arkia flights to Tel Aviv; Corendon Dutch Airlines to Amsterdam and Maastricht/Aachen; Onur Air to Istanbul; and TUI fly Netherlands to Amsterdam and Eindhoven. Seasonal charter flights are available by Enter Air to Warsaw–Chopin and LOT Polish Airlines to Katowice. TUI fly Belgium is planning to begin seasonal flights to Brussels on 6 June 2020.

By boat
There is a daily boat to Pogradec in Albania in the tourist season, leaving Ohrid at 10:00.

By bus


The easiest way to get to Ohrid is from Skopje, where buses run about once an hour. A bus from Skopje takes about 3½ hours and costs at least 830 denars one way or 1,180 denars round-trip. Timetable: Ohrid - Skopje: 05:00**, 05:30, 07:15**, 07:30, 10:45, 12:45, 15:00, 17:45, 19:00*, 20:30**.

And for coming back: Skopje – (Kičevo) – Ohrid: 05:30, 06:00, 06:55*, 07:00*, 08:00, 08:30*, 09:00*, 10:00, 11:00, 14:00, 14:45, 15:30, 16:00, 16:30, 17:30, 18:30, 19:30* (*Jun-Aug only). In the summer, travellers to Skopje might want to buy a ticket a day or two in advance.

There are also several buses a day from Bitola, and a few direct buses from several other major Macedonian cities. Frequent local buses (40 denars) and shared taxis (100 denars) to Struga.

From Albania, there is a bus line from Vlore (passing Durres and Tirana). Departure time from Ohrid to Albania: 04:30 and 05:40. From Tirana's international bus station, the bus to Ohrid leaves at 13:00; the fare, as of 2017, is €20. It is also possible to travel from Tirana or Elbasan to Struga on one of several daily Tirana-Skopje buses, and to take a local bus from Struga to Ohrid.

It's a little bit trickier to get to Ohrid from Greece. From Thessaloniki, the easiest way is to take a train to Skopje and then hop on a bus to Ohrid.

If you want to reach Ohrid and North Macedonia from Montenegro there is an overnight bus (operates only on Sundays) from Herceg Novi to Skopje via Albania, passing through Kotor, Budva, Bar and Ulcinj. Ticket price vary from place in Montenegro and most expensive is from Herceg Novi and cost around €25.

There is no railway in Ohrid. The closest passenger stations are in Kichevo (which, as of 2017, only has 1 train a day from Skopje) and Bitola (with 5 trains to Skopje). On the Albanian side, the railway to the nearby Pogradec was closed in 2012; the closest operating station is in Librazhd.

On foot
The city centre and the old town is compact and best seen on foot. An interesting walk that takes in the main attractions starts in the main square. The city's museums are in this area. From here, visit St. Sophia Church, the Antique Theater. Finally, walk up the hill to King Samuil's Fortress. Plaoshnik, and St. John - Kaneo can be visited on the return journey.

By taxi
Transport in Ohrid is inexpensive and covers all areas of the city. Taxi drivers may try charge tourists higher rates, so insist on a set price.

By boat
Daily boat trips to St Naum Monastery and a few interim beaches. It leaves Ohrid's main harbour at 10:00 and at 15:30 from St. Naum Monastery, with additional trips on certain days. 600 denars return.

By rental car
At Ohrid's airport, there are 8 car rental services available that you can quickly book at the airport or on the website. These include
 * Avis (avismak@mt.net.mk@undefined; )
 * Enterprise(contact@abclogistika.mk@undefined; ; )
 * Europcar (reservation@europcar.com.mk@undefined; )
 * Hertz (info@hertz.mk@undefined; )
 * Inter Ways (ohrid@macedoniarentacar.com.mk@undefined; ; )
 * Sharr Express (info@sharrexpress.com@undefined; ; )
 * Sixt (reservations@sixt.com.mk@undefined; )
 * StarCar (info@starcar.mk@undefined; ; ; )

See
Aside from the lake, Ohrid is most famous for its ancient churches, basilicas, and monasteries where Saints Kliment and Naum with the help of Bulgarian king Boris I (students of Cyril and Methodus) wrote their teachings and formulated the Cyrillic alphabet used in North Macedonia, as well as neighboring countries Bulgaria, Serbia and Montenegro and as far as Russia, and many of the countries of the former Soviet Union. Most of these churches charge an entry which for tourists is normally double that what locals pay, but is still worth it. It is a good idea to cover up when entering a church, but most locals will understand the inconveniences involved during a hot Macedonian Summer. There is also a wonderful ancient walled fortress at the top of the city.

Fortifications
The old town is circled with walls, which are crowned with Tsar Samuel fortress. The first fortifications were built in the 5th century BC, but the oldest remains preserved are from 3rd century BC. The fortifications were reinforced various times throughout history and what stands today is largely from the 10th century. There used to be four gates to the city: the Lower Gate - you'll reach it soon after you walk from the main square inside the old part of the town on “Car Samoil” street. It used to be the gate through which regular visitors entered the city in the ancient and medieval times, just one tower of it still stands; the Upper Gate - in ancient times it used to be connected with the ancient theatre by portico. It is well preserved due to the reinforcements made in the 16th century; the Front Gate - near St Mary's Celnica Church. It is the main entrance gate but just stands in traces today; and the Water Gate - the entrance in the city from the lake, the place where it used to stand is not known.

Major churches

 * There are three small 14th/15th century churches situated next to Saint Mary Perivleptos:
 * There are three small 14th/15th century churches situated next to Saint Mary Perivleptos:

Old Bazaar
Ohrid was a major religious and cultural centre but not really an important trade centre, which left it with a relatively small bazaar. It is a simple bazaar consisting of mainly one street, Saint Clement of Ohrid Street, which gets packed with tourists in summer evenings. It is lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. The bazaar starts with the market at the northern end, followed by a square with a 1,000-year-old tree and a fountain. Walking down the bazaar, on the left are a couple of stone stores, which is the best-preserved section of stores in the bazaar. The bazaar ends with the main square named after Saint Clement of Ohrid which faces the port and lake. There are a few statues in this square.

Traditional residential architecture
When the Turks came they settled on the flat land along the lake and that became the Muslim part of town and the part on the hills inside the walls was always the Christian part, with the bazaar as a meeting place. As the city grew and the Christians were not allowed to build outside the walls, Ohrid developed very specific architecture with tight narrow streets and tunnels (houses built over the streets). The houses had tiny yards usually enclosed in the ground floor, and the houses grew over the streets on the upper floors since the locations were small. The steep terrain enabled everybody to have a good view of the lake and because of the strong sun the houses were painted white, so they would reflect the sun. Because of the winds from the lake, the houses in Ohrid don't have the open spaces that traditional houses in other towns in North Macedonia have.

Interesting houses can be seen all over the old town, but the best examples are along Car Samoil and Ilindenska streets. Robevci & Uranija houses are the two best examples of traditional architecture. They are houses of very rich families (normally the houses were not this big). Especially rich in terms of architecture is Uranija house, with entrances on different levels and inside galleries. They have been turned into museums today. If you don’t have time, visit just Uranija, which is free, though the top level of Robevci has great views, nice wood carvings, and some furniture (100 denars entrance). The house next to St. Gerakomija church is one of the few traditional houses that has been nicely and carefully preserved. It has been turned into a hotel now; Kanevce House On the right from the main façade of St. Sophia church, is the small house that belonged to Kanevce family. It has beautiful proportions and it is a good example of how they built on small locations.

A couple of these historic homes were the birthplaces of notable Macedonians and are preserved as museums:

Other historic neighborhoods in the old town include:

Down the shore
The east coast is the most beautiful part of Lake Ohrid. From the town of Ohrid in the north, down to Saint Naum Monastery is considered the Macedonian Riviera. The country is landlocked, but you're certain to forget that when visiting this breathtaking area. It forms the western side of Galičica National Park. Below are notable places of interest along the coast, listed going south from Ohrid.


 * Peštani village – this once quiet fishing village has given up to tourism, with almost every house renting rooms and many restaurants and cafes. Desaret hotel has a good organized beach. If you don't like camping but like to enjoy the great beaches and parties in Gradishte you can stay here.
 * Trpejca village – due to its setting between the rocks this small fishing village has managed to preserve its charm and escape the overgrow of tourism. It has a great long but narrow beach with the cleanest waters on the lake. It has couple of good small lakeside fish and barbecue restaurants and a bar on the left side of the beach. If you don't like the beach or it seems crowded take one of the small boats and ask to be taken to one of the isolated beaches around the village and enjoy the lake by yourself, the boat will come back for you at arranged time (50-100 denars).
 * Trpejca village – due to its setting between the rocks this small fishing village has managed to preserve its charm and escape the overgrow of tourism. It has a great long but narrow beach with the cleanest waters on the lake. It has couple of good small lakeside fish and barbecue restaurants and a bar on the left side of the beach. If you don't like the beach or it seems crowded take one of the small boats and ask to be taken to one of the isolated beaches around the village and enjoy the lake by yourself, the boat will come back for you at arranged time (50-100 denars).
 * Trpejca village – due to its setting between the rocks this small fishing village has managed to preserve its charm and escape the overgrow of tourism. It has a great long but narrow beach with the cleanest waters on the lake. It has couple of good small lakeside fish and barbecue restaurants and a bar on the left side of the beach. If you don't like the beach or it seems crowded take one of the small boats and ask to be taken to one of the isolated beaches around the village and enjoy the lake by yourself, the boat will come back for you at arranged time (50-100 denars).



Into the mountains
Much of Ohrid Municipality lies more inland from the lake. Villages dot the mountains surrounding Ohrid, home to traditional architecture and fantastic views.
 * Elšani village Elšani is the perfect place to relax and recharge. Just sitting on the terrace of a guesthouse, drinking a coffee and enjoying the view of the lake is an experience in itself, but when it's time to get up and stretch your legs, there is plenty to do. This village is a great place to enjoy walking in the mountain, and it's a perfect starting point for a number of hiking trails for all ages and skill levels. While any guesthouse can point guests in the right direction or even arrange a guide for longer hikes, trails on hikers can follow trails on either the north or south end of the village to the nearby villages Konjsko or Pestani. The windy, hilly streets of the village also provide an unforgettable place to explore.
 * Head further into Galičica National Park for hiking and wildlife viewing.
 * Elšani village Elšani is the perfect place to relax and recharge. Just sitting on the terrace of a guesthouse, drinking a coffee and enjoying the view of the lake is an experience in itself, but when it's time to get up and stretch your legs, there is plenty to do. This village is a great place to enjoy walking in the mountain, and it's a perfect starting point for a number of hiking trails for all ages and skill levels. While any guesthouse can point guests in the right direction or even arrange a guide for longer hikes, trails on hikers can follow trails on either the north or south end of the village to the nearby villages Konjsko or Pestani. The windy, hilly streets of the village also provide an unforgettable place to explore.
 * Head further into Galičica National Park for hiking and wildlife viewing.

Beaches
Apart from sightseeing, there are a few different natural beaches. Usually, the further from the city centre the more scenic they become, and each offers a unique beach experience. Gradiste beach is known for many young people and music for instance, while others have families or tranquil atmosphere. Beaches are most crowded in July and August, and quiet the rest of the year, which is a whole different experience.

Scuba diving
It is possible to scuba dive in lake Ohrid. You have to get to Gradiste, some 15 km south of Ohrid town. At the site is also Bay of Bones, an open air museum of how life used to be here. There is only one scuba diving shop (SSI affiliated), Amfora Diving, with the usual choice of courses and diving trips. One dive including rental of all equipment costs €45.

Events

 * Ohrid Swimming Marathon - Each year, in the second half of July, the swimming elite throughout the world gathers in Ohrid and, starting from the monastery St. Naum, they swim along the Lakeshore to the town harbour, approximately a 30-km route. Since 1998 the Ohrid Swimming Marathon has entered in the World Swimming Club of the 12 worldwide held marathons under the patronage of FINA-The World Swimming Association.
 * The Balkan Folklore Festival - Member of the UNESCO Association of The International Council of Organizations of Folklore Festivals and Folklore Art, and The International Organization for Folklore Art. This festival has so far presented numerous original songs and dances from folk culture for more than 30 years. About 1,200 ensembles with 42,000 members have taken part in the festival.
 * Kostoski international festivals - they have participants from all over the world, including folklore groups, majorettes, choirs, brass bands, and modern dance ensembles.
 * Kostoski international festivals - they have participants from all over the world, including folklore groups, majorettes, choirs, brass bands, and modern dance ensembles.
 * Kostoski international festivals - they have participants from all over the world, including folklore groups, majorettes, choirs, brass bands, and modern dance ensembles.

Buy

 * Traditional Macedonian musical instruments, filigree jewelery, woodcarvings, items made from copper, or a CD with authentic Macedonian music, can be brought home to refresh your memories of your visit.

If interested in real Macedonian folk music, ask for music performed by Aleksandar Sarievski, Nikola Badev, Vaska Ilieva, Petranka Kostadinova, Anka Gieva, Jonče Hristovski, Kočo Petrovski... Avoid CDs with modern-day "turbo folk" music (i.e. semi-naked girls with bad voices, singing on techno melodies).


 * The Talevi and Filevi are the two Ohrid families who make genuine Ohrid pearl necklaces, earrings and broaches; they carried over this handcraft down from one generation to another. Ohrid pearl is created from seashells and coated with 5-7 thin layers of emulsion made from the scales of the Ohrid fish called Plashitsa, and is protected with a Designation of Origin.

Books
Some of the modern buys in this birthplace of Cyrillic literacy, include books from Happy Something Press, Ohrid's book publisher in English, founded by Macedonian born author and Oxford University student Evangelina Cifliganec known for her contemporary novel "Happy Something". Its 2nd edition was published by the publisher's Ohrid branch, HappySomething.com, as the author was said to be inspired by Ohrid. You might find it easier online as the price of the English version there is higher and not always in stock.
 * Books from Ohrid to read on the beach or take home.

A Passage through the Fog is a book that has been written in Ohrid by the Ohrid born writer and photographer Misho Yuzmeski. Dr. Michael Seraphinoff, in his Translator`s note on the book has written: "Misho Yuzmeski's novel invites the reader to join his young narrator on a journey of discovery through the heart of modern Europe. While this journey offers certain narrow insights into modern day city life in England and a few of the continent's major cities, it is the internal journey of the young traveler that is at the heart of this novel. Readers are liable to find parallels to some youthful search for meaning of their own in Michele's journey. He reminds us of a critical time in many of our lives, when childhood is finally behind us, but the road ahead is quite uncertain." A copy of the book can be found in all Ohrid's bookstores and there is no difference in price between different stores. Bulgarian translation of the same book is available, as well.

Short History of the Macedonian People by Risto Stefov was published in Ohrid in 2011. This book is a chronological outline of historical events involving Macedonia and the Macedonian people from ancient times to the present.

Numerous book stalls can be found (at least in good weather during the tourist season) in the square near Ohrid harbour. They sell a variety of maps useful for tourists as well.

Groceries
The downtown farmers' market has all kinds of fresh produce, as well as local specialties such as walnuts. There are cheese and sausage shops in the market as well, as well as numerous vendors of clothing and assorted industrial goods.

Bicycle supplies and service
There is at least one bike repair shop, which also sells common spare parts and supplies, next to the farmer's market. Some vendors in the market carry bicycle accessories (spare tubes, pumps, etc.) as well. This is pretty much the only place in the region to purchase stuff like this, since smaller towns around Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa do not seem to have any bicycle related shops or services - and even gas stations there may not have air pumps.

Eat
Restaurants and hotels throughout North Macedonia are proudly displaying Ohrid trout (Ohridska pastrmka) on their menus because it is very delicious but it is illegal to catch the fish along the Macedonian shoreline of Lake Ohrid. Please do not support or encourage the consumption of the trout. Ohrid trout, an ancient living fish, is in severe danger. There is also another trout species called Belvica. Some popular restaurants in Ohrid known to most people in town simply by the name are:

Try these foods:
 * Ribna Čorba, a traditional fish soup served in most restaurants, mostly as a starter.
 * Burek, a layered pastry inherited from Ottoman times and popular for breakfast here. Choose with meat, cheese or spinach/cheese (arguably the best), and take a cup of traditional Macedonian yogurt. Modest looking place Burekđilnica Igor makes the best burek in town, Žito Leb's is also good.
 * Makalo, a starter spread made with garlic and yogurt.
 * Gjomleze, baked layered pancakes cut in a rhomboid shape, and usually served with white cheese.
 * Ohridski Gevrek, a traditional bakery product. You can buy it in Žito Leb'. Try it with yogurt or peach juice.

Drink
The traditional Macedonian alcoholic beverages are rakija and mastika. Boza is a refreshing drink on a hot summer day; it was spread throughout North Macedonia with the arrival of the Turks and it has significant nutritional value. Other popular drinks are Macedonian wines called Kavadarka and Smederevka and Skopsko beer. Try boza with ice-cream. It's called "Ambasador".



Sleep
Main forms of accommodation are private houses, apartments and villas, you can also try to find a couchsurfer. For an average price of around €10-15 per night, you will find excellent private facilities, located mostly in the Old Town. Fastest and safest way of booking accommodation in Ohrid hotels and apartments is to visit website. On the page are published different information which help tourists during their stay in Ohrid. While arriving there, to get a host you can ask at the nearest Tourist Information Bureau (at the bus station, for example). However, the best solution is to make your reservation in advance via Internet or phone, having in mind the growing popularity of Ohrid as tourist destination:

Stay safe

 * Ohrid Pearl is a type of imitation pearl (an artificial, man-made pearl) and as such has no real value as a gemstone. Most of the "pearls" sold around Lake Ohrid, on the street and in most shops, are simply unfinished imitation pearls (beads made of nacre, but without the pearly coating). Although selling shops have clear notes stating these are hand made ones.

Go next

 * Bitola (E 80 km) – One of the most European-flavoured cities in the country, Bitola is known for its colourful neo-classical architecture and the Ancient Macedon ruins of Heraclea Lyncestis nearby.
 * Kičevo (N 60 km)
 * Kruševo (NE 90 km via Bitola) – A museum-city nestled high up in the mountains of southwestern North Macedonia; it is one the most historically significant destinations in the country as it was the site of a revolt against the Ottoman Empire; there is skiing in the winter, and paragliding, walking and mountain biking in the summer.
 * Prilep (NE 110 km) – Tobacco fields, medieval monasteries, and strange rocks.
 * Resen (E 25 km) – The home to Saraj Castle built in 1908.
 * Struga (E 16 km) – A small town on Lake Ohrid which used to be rather quiet, yet nowadays (2016) it receives an enormous number of Dutch tourists.
 * Debarca – A rural region just north of Ohrid.


 * Pogradec, Albania (SW 40 km) – A small city on the other side of the lake, and worth a visit for those with extra time in Ohrid.