Nukus

Nukus is a city in Karakalpakstan, Uzbekistan. It is the capital of the region However, even by Uzbek standards the town is fairly decrepit and most travellers only stay one night in order to see the Savitsky gallery. Despite this, the locals are a friendly lot. Learn a few words of Karakalpak and you'll be rewarded with delighted smiles.

By rail
Trains depart from Tashkent daily and head for Kungrad via Samarkand and Bukhara on the way; these trains stop at Nukus station. The journey takes about 17 hours, the fare is around 170,000 som. Book as early as you can as they are quickly booked out.

From Kazakhstan, a train runs three times a week from Beyneu. There is no direct train between Nukus and Urgench (for Khiva) as Urgench is on a different branch line. As an aside, the main station has open WiFi.

By car
Shared taxis run to and from Urgench, which is a major interchange with taxi connections to Khiva, Bukhara, and the airport. You will probably need a local taxi between the taxi stand the hotels in the centre of Nukus.

Get around
Taxis are plentiful and cheap: a short hop in town should cost 500-1000 som. Everything you'll want to see is in walking distance.
 * Aral Sea
 * Khiva
 * Urgench

See


Nearby is the Museum of Applied Arts showing local fabrics, traditional clothing and jewellery. The Karakalpak State Museum exhibits examples of natural history, including the very last Turan Tiger, caught in 1972.

Do
Due to being the closest major city to the Aral Sea, Nukus is a good place to start trips to the shore and to Moynoq. The former fishing town is some 200 km away and a witness of the dying Aral Sea. Its main "attraction" is the infamous ship graveyard.

A taxi from Nukus to Moynaq costs around US$70, higher if booked through a hotel. For a day trip, start early as it is 3-3½ hr one way. Marshrutkas also go to Moynaq via Kungrad.

Buy
There is a huge sprawling market near the bus station, selling the usual range of cheap consumer goods, clothing and food. Most of it is under cover and hence not a bad place to wander during the heat of the day. A camera and a polite 'Mogu li ya snyatʹ vashu fotografiyu?' (May I take your photograph?.) can lead to some very atmospheric pictures.



Eat
There are few options, both the Mona Lisa and the Sheraton restaurants, listed in a popular guidebook, have shut. Searching around you will find acceptable kebab places, such as the one just east of the Savitsky museum (42°27'54.03"N, 59°37'11.17"E, on the corner of Rashidova & Dosnazarov).

"Samsa" are popular, samosa-type pastries filled with ground beef and onions. 1,500-3,000 som, and they're rather filling. For a meat-free option some places sell slightly cheaper potato versions, ask for "kartoshka samsa".

As in the rest of the country Plov is the most widely known dish of the region and delicious, especially when homemade. Usually made with chicken.

Kimchi is popular with the locals, and is sold it at the main fruit and vegetable market. A large Korean community was resettled in Nukus after the second world war and now comprises ~20% of the population of the city.

Drink
Find some "Qarataw" brand vodka. Local to Qaraqalpaqstan and even difficult to find outside of the region, it's smooth and complex, and the Qaraqalpaks are rightly proud of it.

Sleep
The prices in US dollars are higher than prices in som, and the hotels will want you to pay in US dollars (except in Nukus Hotel).



Taxi
If looking for taxi to the dying Aral Sea, you may contact +99861 7178779.

By plane
Uzbekistan Airways operates flights to:
 * Moscow Domodedovo International Airport.
 * Tashkent.

By shared taxi
Shared taxis from the South Bus Station leave to
 * Urgench US$10-12 per seat, 2 hrs