Norfolk Island

Norfolk Island is an island in Melanesia, administered by Australia. It is 1,600 km (1,000 mi) east of Sydney and Brisbane and 1,000 km (620 mi) northwest of Auckland. It's a great destination for relaxation, with a range of accommodation and dining, beautiful vistas, complex history and tropical reefs. It also holds a deep convict history, with the convict sites part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tourist information

 * Norfolk Island Council tourism website

Towns
There are two settlements on the island:


 * &mdash; the historic settlement, convict ruins, beaches and the territorial capital.
 * &mdash; the commercial centre. Shopping and dining.

Although the distance between Burnt Pine and Kingston may look walkable on the map, it is a steep road with no footpath or lighting. A car is recommended.

There are other small settlements on the island, and residences and attractions are distributed throughout.

History
The first known settlers in Norfolk Island were East Polynesians, but it seems that they had already departed before Captain Cook found the island. He named it after Lady Norfolk during his second voyage around the world and observed the presence of the tall Norfolk pine (Araucaria heterophylla), which he thought would be suitable for ship's masts, and patches of flax, that were presumed to be useful for sails. They weren't.

The first European settlement was established by the British in 1788, a few months after the founded their first settlement in New South Wales. Some of the most capable men and women were sent from Sydney to the island, to exploit what Cook had observed. It was also hoped they could provide a source of food and other supplies to the struggling settlers in Sydney town. None of these hopes were realised; instead, the colonists on Norfolk Island struggled to feed themselves. When the island was evacuated, nearly all man-made structures were destroyed.

The second settlement was from 1825 to 1855. This time, the settlement had a purely punitive function. Whereas the first settlement was made up of free settlers, convicts and military, men and women, the second settlement was all male, and all convicts and military. Many of the military left their wives and children in Sydney while they served their time on Norfolk. Over 2,000 convicts were housed on the island, more than the total present-day population. Substantial structures were built. Eventually the cost of running the colony was no longer justified, the convicts were all transferred to Van Diemens Land, and the colony was evacuated.

The third settlement in 1856 was by former inhabitants of Pitcairn Island. The Pitcairn Islanders were descendants of the Bounty mutineers (Christian, Young, McCoy, Adams, Quintal) and the later Pitcairners (Buffett, Evans and Nobbs). Pitcairn Island was unable to support 200 inhabitants, and Queen Victoria offered them land grants on Norfolk Island with the convicts departing. The administrators of the island from the second settlement stayed long enough to show the Pitcairners how they ran the island, before they left Norfolk. Later influences from the 20th century were from American sealers, and migration from Australians and New Zealanders. Mutiny_on_the_Bounty Although Norfolk Island had been a self-governing territory of Australia for much of its history, in 2016, the Australian government decided to reduce the island's autonomy. Today, it's somewhat like Christmas Island and the Cocos (Keeling) Islands but instead of WA law applying to the island, NSW law applies. Since January 1, 2022, Queensland has been providing state health and educational services to the island. The decision was and remains controversial, and many islanders have been protesting ever since.

Many of the things to see and do in Norfolk Island relate to the three historic settlements or the current settlement of the mutineers and their descendants.

Demographics
About a third of the population consist of descendants of the Pitcairn Islanders, with the remaining residents mainly split between people from Australia and New Zealand. The permanent population of the island is about 2,188 (2021). Most residents have spent some time off-island.

Tourism and hospitality is the island's largest industry, comprising around 70% of local businesses. While there are tour groups and programs which are tailored for visitors, you'll also find many locals offering something to tourists like a mural, tour or day trip. You'll find something even it's a farm, the mall, or the island's gym! Agriculture makes up around 6% of the economy, but allows for the island to be largely self-sufficient with fresh foods, meats, and dairy.

Climate
The sub-tropical maritime climate is quite mild. There is no air-conditioning on the island, and very little heating. Temperature ranges are small, with days averaging around 24 °C in summer, and 19 °C in winter. Weather on the island is notoriously unpredictable, so don't be surprised to be caught in short downpours every now and then.

Time zone
Norfolk Island is in a different time zone from the rest of the eastern states, following UTC+11 (NFT), and does not follow daylight savings. This is the same time zone as Australian Eastern Daylight Time (AEDT).

Talk
The main official language of Norfolk Island is English, and all the islanders speak it. However, among themselves they often use Norfuk (Norf'k), a language derived from the English spoken by the Bounty Mutineers and the Tahitian spoken by their wives. Norf'k is not readily comprehensible by speakers of any variety of English, including Australian English — though it's similar to (and, in fact, sometimes considered to be the same language as) Pitkern, spoken on the Pitcairn Islands by fellow descendants of the Bounty Mutineers.

There are books to purchase on the local Norf'k language. Most are for readers with only a casual interest, but if you are interested in scholarship on the language, Speak Norfolk Today by Alice Inez Buffett is the best source. There are audio CDs of songs written in Norf'k.

Visa and immigration control
Norfolk Island is part of Australia, so you must meet the visa requirements for Australia to visit. Travel between mainland Australia and Norfolk Island is domestic travel, but flights leave from the international terminals in Sydney and Brisbane.

Because you'll be traveling through the international terminal, be sure to factor in extra time to pass through immigration and customs, and you must have a passport or other photo identification. You can't use the automatic gates and you must queue to see a person. If you have a passport, it's probably easiest to take it with you. If you don't, then make sure you have suitable government-issued photo identification.

You are entitled to duty-free goods in line with your normal Australia allowances. Typically, duty-free liquor is cheaper on Norfolk than in Sydney or Brisbane. If you want to take advantage of duty-free allowances, you will need a passport.

There are quarantine restrictions on the movement of many items of food, including meat and fresh fruit, between the island and the mainland. You must declare all food products, plant material (including wooden articles) and animal products you bring. You can bring commercially sealed packaged foods, but you cannot bring fresh fruit, vegetables, plants, seeds, or meats without a commercial permit (which tourists are unlikely to obtain). Details on commercial permits and what's allowed can be found on the Australian Government Department of Agriculture site, and on the Norfolk Island Tourism FAQ page. The restrictions are not the same in both directions.

By plane


Qantas operate direct flights from Brisbane every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and direct flights from Sydney once a week. All flights from $300 one-way. (Nov 2021) Air Chathams offer flights to Norfolk Island every Wednesday from Auckland from NZ$570 one way, 2 hr 20 min (Aug 2021).

By boat
3 or 4 cruise ships per year call at Norfolk Island. The local shipping agent, Transam Argosy lists details of cruise ships calling at Norfolk Island on their local website and in local newspapers; also Norfolk Online News has the schedule. All passengers are tendered ashore, weather permitting. If you are tendered into Kingston, and only have a few hours on the island, you shouldn't be in a rush to get to Burnt Pine — unless you are desperate for a good cappuccino. Kingston is the unique and picturesque part of the island. Spend your time walking along the coast to Emily Bay and the cemetery. Call into the Golf Club, and give the queues for the shuttle bus a miss.

There is no regular passenger service to Norfolk Island by sea, but there is a regular freighter service, which you might be able to travel with.

By car
There is no public transport system on Norfolk Island. The hilly terrain and distance between attractions make getting around on foot impractical for most visitors. Independent travellers tend to rent a car. There are a variety of tours available daily.

It costs about $70 a day to rent a car and $20 a day for a scooter. It is usual when booking accommodation or a package that a rental car can be included in the tariff. Basic insurance is sometimes included, but excess reduction, petrol and additional drivers can be extra. You can pick up a car from the tourist information for a single day for $90 with insurance and petrol all included - if you just feel like a day-trip around the island.

Driving is on the left, with a speed limit outside Burnt Pine of 50 km/h and inside Burnt Pine of 40 km/h (30 km/h in the school zone). When driving outside of the town, remember that cows and other animals have right of way. Also remember to watch out for the "Norfolk Wave", a wave (ranging from a raised index finger off the steering wheel through to an enthusiastic movement of the arm) used by all locals to greet all passing traffic and pedestrians.

Like everything on the island, planning ahead is a good idea. If they aren't expecting any business you can find the rental car places reducing their already short trading hours. If you are collecting a rental car from the airport, most operators will meet you at the airport unless otherwise instructed. When exiting the airport arrivals hall, turn left and head towards the carpark where information staff will direct you to the rental car operators.



By taxi
There is a taxi/ride-hailing service operating on the island.



By bicycle
You can also hire bicycles, but you'd want to like hill-climbing.



History and Kingston ruins
The are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. You can wander through many of the ruins at your leisure. They mostly date from the second settlement, and many have plaques that describe their function and history. The two jails, the hospital, and the salt house are just some of the structures that you are free to explore. Some of the buildings house museums that charge admission.

The other part of Kingston is the houses of Quality Row. These were built for use by the military officers of the penal settlement, and were then used as residences by the Pitcairn settlers after the closure of the penal settlement. Most of these old houses are restored to some degree, with one even functioning as a church with regular worship services.



Museums
There are four museums in Kingston. You can buy a combined pass to all four for $35. They are all open M-Sa from 11AM until 3PM with the exception of the Pier Store that's also open Sundays. On weekdays and Saturdays at 9:30AM you can join a tag-along guide, who will show you through two of the four museums. Alternating by day. Meet at the REO.

Viewpoints
Norfolk is a beautiful island, and some of the vistas are simply breathtaking. Take some time to explore the island's bays and headlands, and don't forget your camera.

Modern sites




Do




Bushwalking (hiking)

 * The National Park has a number of walks and gardens to check out, including:

Public holidays & events
All public holidays from New South Wales are celebrated here as well, including Anzac Day, Queen's Birthday and Christmas. However, three extra public holidays are celebrated here as well.



Buy
Norfolk Island only uses the Australian dollar. You'll have great difficulty using other currency on the island. The banks will convert currency during business hours. There is a single ATM on the island at the Commonwealth Bank in Burnt Pine. Given this level of redundancy, you shouldn't let your cash supply dwindle too far. Almost all shops and restaurants on the island accept credit cards, but you'll find an occasional one that is cash only.

The main street of Burnt Pine is lined on both sides with shops selling local arts and crafts, shoes and clothes, toys and books. There are some bargains to be had, especially on shoes.

A number of shops are described as "department stores", which can seem rather quaint to visitors from big cities, as these shops are often no larger than the others. The difference lies in the slightly wider range of merchandise available. One of the true delights of shopping on Norfolk Island is that in many shops you simply have no idea what will be for sale.

Local specialties
Locally produced items are for sale on Norfolk Island, homemade preserves being a particular specialty. Other local specialties include novelty soaps, homemade make-up and quality artwork. There is also a wide range of fictional and non-fictional books on Norfolk and the South Pacific in general available at most shops. The island's bookshop is The Golden Orb (see Eat), which contains a section devoted to Norfolk and South Pacific literature.

The ubiquitous Norfolk Island pine is turned into woodwork items, and also into key rings, magnets and other trinkets. Norfolk pine products are normally quite safe to import to Australia or New Zealand, but always make it known to the seller where you're intending to take the product you've just bought, since it never hurts to be sure.

Many specialty shops have limited opening hours. Most of these shops don't open until 10 or 11AM and start closing around 3PM. Many are closed Saturday afternoons and Sunday.



Supplies
Burnt Pine also has all of Norfolk's service industries. Three fuel stations, a few mini-markets and a supermarket. Supplies can occasionally run low of certain items until the next ships arrives to restock.



Eat
Norfolk Island, unsurprisingly, is famous for its seafood, which is generally caught fresh by most of the restaurants on the island. The local trumpeter is commonly available. There is a wide range of other food available on the island.

Vegetarians are catered for by most restaurants, with most having at least one dish on the menu. Vegans have few options, and may need to self-cater. Kosher and Halal meals are impossible to find. Travelers with food allergies may be catered for at some restaurants. Gluten-free food is widely available.

As with everything on Norfolk Island, some advance planning is necessary to avoid going hungry. Cafes and restaurants serving lunch generally close between 2PM and 3PM in the afternoon - and their kitchens may close before that. Bookings are not necessary for breakfast and lunch. Dinner usually starts at 5:30PM and is finished by 8PM. Bookings are necessary in all restaurants and hotel restaurants. You don't need to book for the club bistros, but they also observe the same opening hours. After 9PM even the mini-marts will be closed. Numbers are limited by capacity. An available table won't guarantee a meal without a booking. Booking a day in advance is usually sufficient.

Budget



 * Have a BBQ. There are wood barbecues and picnic tables scattered all over the island. You'll never have a problem finding one if you are in a reserve or at Kingston.
 * Self-cater. The Norfolk Mall has a supermarket, bakery and a butcher. While many products are flown in from mainland Australia or New Zealand, local produce sold here represents the cheapest self-catering option on the island. The range is limited, but potatoes, sweet-potatoes, bananas, figs and avocados are all grown locally and are relatively cheap in season. There are some other locations to help you self-cater – see Supplies in the Buy section.

Drink

 * Burnt Pine clubs &mdash; The RSL club, Bowling Club and Leagues Club (see Squash entry in Do) are all in the main street of Burnt Pine and all welcome visitors.
 * Burnt Pine clubs &mdash; The RSL club, Bowling Club and Leagues Club (see Squash entry in Do) are all in the main street of Burnt Pine and all welcome visitors.

Sleep
There is a myriad of options for accommodation, ranging from basic one- or two-person rooms through to resort-style establishments with restaurants attached hosting seafood buffets. The commercial hub of the island, Burnt Pine, has a number of well-situated guesthouses central to most shops, while accommodation elsewhere is designed to capitalize on views and proximity to nature.

Work
If you have work rights in Australia, you may be able to find seasonable work in hospitality on the island.

Stay safe
Crime on Norfolk Island is very low, though not unknown. Most islanders leave their houses and cars unlocked with windows down. Always remember to exercise common sense when doing this, though, as most criminals are opportunists and it is not unknown for criminals to take "working vacations" too.

Emily Bay and Slaughter Bay in Kingston are the only safe locations to swim on Norfolk as they are protected by a natural coral reef. All other bays are not patrolled and have unpredictable conditions. A Norfolk tradition is that of the "Seventh Wave", the unpredictable rising in wave height which can sweep unwary swimmers out to sea.

Stay healthy
Tap water is safe to drink from the tap, but bottled and filtered water are also available. Two Drips is the local bottled water.

Hospital & GPs
Norfolk Island has its own hospital and ambulance service, and it is now incorporated into the Australian health system. International visitors should ensure that they have sufficient insurance, as a medical evacuation (medivac) to the mainland comes at a very high cost. A required medivac to the mainland would be covered by Australian Medicare for Australian citizens.


 * In an emergency call 000 immediately.
 * In an emergency call 000 immediately.

Respect
Some islanders are descended from the Bounty mutineers, so some information has a certain spin to align with the local mythology. If you're looking for a lighthearted way to engage with the story, you can lead with whether Marlon Brando or Mel Gibson was the better Fletcher Christian in the 1962 and 1984 movies. Everyone has seen both movies.

There are convict ruins dotted around the island, and you're generally free to wander where you want. These are a valuable part of Australia's history, so don't climb them or touch the ruins and artifacts.

Connect
The island mobile telephone network is really only useful for phone calls, and that's the common way to communicate on island. All phone numbers are five digits (the local part) and those beginning with a '5' are mobile numbers: +672 3 5xxxx. Your smartphone won't seem so smart with a local SIM card, but it's very useful for bookings for tours and restaurants. There have been some recent improvements such as the introduction of NBN Satellite and 4G networks in some areas of the island.

There are two local data providers:



Australian networks Telstra, Optus and Vodafone have roaming agreements, but only useful for phone calls. Check your provider, as roaming can be expensive. No other overseas networks roam on Norfolk Island.

Only a few hotels offer their own Wi-Fi service. Most cafes and accommodation have the Norfolk Telecom Wi-Fi. Free cafe Wi-Fi is not available anywhere.

Newspapers
The Norfolk Islander is a community paper which issues on Saturdays. You can find it in some cafes, newsagents & petrol stations.

Radio and TV stations

 * Pines FM 99.9 is a community radio station specialising in rock. Three ABC Radio stations are also transmitted to the island via satellite relay.
 * Pines FM 99.9 is a community radio station specialising in rock. Three ABC Radio stations are also transmitted to the island via satellite relay.

The island has satellite television, with the same free-to-air channels as regional areas of NSW. Some hotels have Foxtel.

Religious services
Churches on the island include, , , , Jehovah's Witness, and a Community Church. There is also a Baha'i house of worship. Contact the Visitors Information Centre (see Understand) for up-to-date service times.

Go next
Your only options on commercial transport are back to New Zealand, Australia, or onward with your cruise.

If you're on a cruise, or decided to stop over on your ship, Pitcairn Islands are a great next stop to continue following the history.