Nicosia

Nicosia (Greek: Λευκωσία; Turkish: Lefkoşa) is the capital of Cyprus and is the largest city by far.

While it may not boast the same abundance of archaeological sites and lively beaches as other parts of Cyprus, the city's Old Town, with its museums and churches, is still a pleasant place to explore. What's more, with fewer tourists than the resorts on the southern coast, Nicosia maintains a more authentically Cypriot atmosphere.

Take a stroll through the city's charming streets, where you'll find delightful cafes serving traditional Cypriot coffee, as well as woodworking shops tucked away in unexpected corners. And don't miss the opportunity to visit the Green Line, the boundary that divides North from South. As the financial and administrative center of the island, Nicosia is a haven for shopping enthusiasts.

Understand
Nicosia is one of the very few divided capitals in the world. The barbed wire and guardtowers of the Green Line cuts the town in two, with the northern side being the capital of the self-proclaimed Northern Cyprus and the southern half being the capital of the Republic of Cyprus.

The municipality of Nicosia governs only the central portion, but the city now sprawls for several kilometers and has engulfed surrounding villages and settlements. The population of the Greek part hovers around 245,000 in 2020 (a third of the total population of Cyprus), but the city has a feel of one much larger. It is the administrative and financial hub of the island as well as home to several universities, colleges and other educational establishments. It hosts most foreign embassies and offshore companies (a big industry in Cyprus nowadays). Along with its international students and foreign workers it has developed a truly cosmopolitan feel. It also acts as a separate administrative capital for the Nicosia district.

Climate
One of the southernmost locations in Europe, Nicosia's climate is classified as subtropical and semi-arid. Summers are very hot and dry, you can expect temperatures to regularly rise above 35°C. Pleasantly warm temperatures are common early in the spring and late in the autumn, making these good times to visit. Winter is the wettest time of the year, though even then just 7-8 days of the month see rain. During mid-winter, the temperature may sometimes drop below freezing and light frost and sleet occurs, but snowfall is very rare.

History
Cyprus is in the Levant, and as with other places in this part of the world it has a long and tumultuous history and has seen many great empires come and go. Taking that into consideration, Nicosia has surprisingly few sights dating back from antiquity or even from the middle ages.

Nicosia is in the middle of the island and the region has been inhabited since around 2500 BC. A city-state by the name of Ledra was established here sometimes after the end of the Trojan War (1180 BC), though not much of it is known today. By 330 BC Ledra was recorded as a small unimportant farming town. The following high point came in the Byzantine Era. In the 4th century AD the town became a bishopric seat and it got its current (Greek and Turkish) name, Lefkosia. Nicosia grew as an agricultural centre, and unlike the richer coastal cities it wasn't destroyed by Arab raids. Around 965 the Byzantine governor moved the administration to Nicosia, and since then it has been the capital of the island albeit under many different administrations. With the crusades came the rule by Western European powers. The Frankish Kingdom of Cyprus was established in 1192 as a base for crusades to the Holy Land. During that time, the first city walls were built, as well as some notable churches (now in North Nicosia). Over the years Genoan and Venetian merchants established themselves and competed for influence over the island, and in 1489 the last queen sold the administration to the Republic of Venice. Venice had been fighting one war after another with the Ottoman Empire for some time already, and during the following decades Nicosia was attacked multiple times. A new fortification system, which still stands, was built in 1567-70, but in the same year it was finished, the Ottomans captured Nicosia after a siege of 40 days.

After that Nicosia largely lay in ruins, and the population fell by 95%. From then on the inhabitants comprised Ottoman Muslims and Greek Orthodox Christians; the former settled in the north of the city and the latter in the south. Over the years the Ottoman Empire slowly declined, to the point that it was dubbed the "Sick man of Europe". In order to protect the empire from Russian incursions (as in the Russo-Turkish war of 1877), Cyprus was traded to the British in 1878 in exchange for protection against Russia. By then, Greece had gained independence from the Ottoman Empire, and many Greek-Cypriots hoped for the island to become united (enosis) with Greece.

Like the Venetian rule, the British rule would also last about 80 years. Most of it went relatively peacefully, but after World War II, the opinion turned against the colonial rule. The pro-independence EOKA organization was founded, and from 1955 on bomb attacks and rioting became common in Nicosia and elsewhere in Cyprus. As a result the independent Republic of Cyprus was established in 1960. The Greek Cypriots still dreamed about enosis with Greece, whereas the Turkish Cypriots who were afraid of what would happen to them now (and especially if such a union would take place), instead demanded a division of the island. In the following years the two groups were fighting each other.

In July 1974, the military junta ruling Greece orchestrated a coup d'état, installing a pro-enosis leader. Turkey replied by invading the island a few days later, capturing the northeastern third of Cyprus, including the northern half of Nicosia and establishing the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). After the ceasefire, the UN established a buffer zone (aka the Green Line) between the two parts of the island and stationed peacekeepers there. Even as Northern Cyprus isn't recognized by anyone but Turkey, it is de facto a separate state from Cyprus, and Nicosia is a divided city. Since 2003 it's less divided than it used to be when the first border crossing between the Republic and TRNC was opened at the Ledra Palace Hotel (now there are several of them both in Nicosia and elsewhere).

The Cyprus peace process is ongoing as of 2023. A plan to unite the country was turned down in a 2004 referendum, and thereafter peace talks have stalled many times. But from a traveller's point of view the situation is peaceful, and you can safely explore the two sides of the city (and the country).

Visitor information

 * Visit Nicosia

By plane
has been closed off since the partition of the country. (40 km, 30-min drive) has scheduled flights to all major European cities. An airport shuttle bus operates between Larnaca Airport and Nicosia, but this bus does not stop close to the city center so you will have to take a taxi or walk to the highway and take a public bus from there. Further away, the smaller  is a 140-km (1 hr 40 min) drive from Nicosia.

By boat
Limassol (80 km away) and Larnaca (40 km away) ports have passenger terminals with ferry and cruise ship services to the Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Greece. Timetables vary considerably with the summer season being the busiest.

By road
Nearly all visitors arrive via the southern highway from Larnaca (43 km) and Limassol (83 km). Regular, cheap and reliable intercity taxi and bus services connect Nicosia to the centre of Cyprus' other cities. Private hire taxis are considerably more expensive. Car hire is also affordable and all major car hire companies are represented at both airports. Cyprus By Bus provides information about buses in Nicosia. Nicosia's is at Solomos square, next to the city wall.

To/from North Nicosia
Entry from Northern Cyprus to south Nicosia used to be close to impossible. However, following a thawing in relations, it is possible for EU citizens to cross the border at official crossing points, regardless of their point of entry to the island. People from other parts of the world will likely be turned back at crossing point. For details on how you can cross the border, please see the Cyprus page.

The Ledra Street crossing (as opposed to Ledra Palace Hotel crossing) allows people to cross again from North to South Nicosia and vice-versa. The crossing traverses the United Nations Buffer Zone dividing Southern and Northern Cyprus. The (Greek) Republic of Cyprus does not maintain an immigration post at the crossing but conducts ID checks, while Northern Cyprus maintains an immigration and customs checkpoint on its side of the border.

If you're taking a taxi to North Nicosia before crossing, do not say "Ledra" because everyone in Northern Cyprus will assume the Ledra Palace crossing, which is outside the city walls to the west.

By foot
Greater Nicosia sprawls for kilometers on end, but the Old City is small enough to navigate on foot. Traditional Greek Cypriot shops line the streets of the Old City, and with very narrow footpaths/walkways, traffic must always be observed. GPS navigation systems may not include Cyprus, but a paper map can be picked up (free of charge) from the Nicosia Cyprus Tourism Organisation (CTO) Information Office (in Laiki Geitonia).

By bus
Nicosia is developing a more extensive network of bus services that connect the ever expanding sprawl. Transport is inexpensive, however timetables remain unreliable and only a few buses are air conditioned.

By taxi
Private taxis abound, they are usually diesel Mercedes cars, and always have a number plate starting with the letter T. Some even have a yellow TAXI (or ΤΑΞΙ in Greek) sign above. Unlike other world cities, they are not in a distinctive colour. Make sure the meter is turned on the second you enter, as tourist expoitation is as common here as everywhere else in the world!

By bike
A cheaper alternative to buses and taxis is to use the bike sharing system Bike in Action. Smart card needed.

See
Nicosia's sights are concentrated in and around the Old City, surrounded by a picturesque star-shaped city wall whose moat has been converted into a pleasant park. Wandering around the Old City is an interesting experience in itself, although some buildings (esp. those near the Green Line) are derelict and crumbling. Many sights in the Old City close early, so try to get an early start - also a good idea for beating the heat in the summer.

Museums












Art galleries






Religious buildings








Monuments and architecture










Squares




Do
Explore the smaller city streets, small enough to easily do this on foot. Visit a traditional Cypriot cafe, and sample a Cypriot coffee. Greet the locals. Make sure you visit the Green Line and view all of the city from the Watchtower, into North and South Nicosia.

Spa




Cinema
In bygone times Nicosia was dotted with dozens of open air and closed cinemas offering films from local, Greek, Turkish and Hollywood producers. The advent of the video player and other home entertainment systems has strangled this industry and now only a handful of cinemas remain, none of which are open air. These offer the latest blockbuster movies from Hollywood and occasionally the odd arthouse European film. Most will be screened in their original language with Greek subtitles. The annual Cyprus International Film Festival  is the local Cannes equivalent. Expect to see great movies, but not the same calibre of stars.





The Friends of Cinema Society was the first to bring forward to the Cypriot viewer, films from countries as diverse and distant as China, Iran, and Japan. With the popularity and recognition of Greek cinema, the Cypriot viewer was able to finally view modern, Greek productions by distinguished artists. Through various festivals (European, French, Spanish, German), Cyprus is able to admire films which are awarded important prizes by international critics, thus bringing state-of-the-art trends of world cinema to Cyprus.

Sport

 * Football: the Cypriot men's national soccer team play at GSP Stadium (capacity 22,800) by the A1 ten km south of city centre.
 * Three city clubs share GSP Stadium: APOEL and Omonoia both in the Cypriot top tier, and Olympiakos relegated in 2023 to the second tier.



Buy
The traditional shopping district runs along and its tributary roads within the medieval walls of the city. A bustle of traditional jewelers, shoe and fabric shops give a blend of Middle Eastern and European feel. is a pedestrianised neighbourhood that has been preserved in its original architecture and is the best quarter if you are after souvenir shops. Big chains (e.g. Marks and Spencer, Zara) line the more modern. has evolved into a mini local version of 5th Avenue/Bond street with expensive brands such as Armani and Versace stores. All the above are within walking distance of each other.

There are no real department stores in a purist sense, but Ermes (this chain inherited and re-branded the old local Woolworths) has several mini department stores across the island and a couple on Makarios Avenue. Alpha-Mega is a local hypermarket chains (worthy equivalent of a Tesco or Wal-Mart) where it would be difficult not to find what you were after. Most of their stores however, are located in the suburbs.

International newspapers and periodicals (especially in the English language) are widely available but you can inevitably find them at the large kiosks (periptera) planted at the two corners of Eleftheria Square. These kiosks are open 24/7.

Eat
Traditional Cypriot cuisine is a melting pot of south European, Balkan and Middle Eastern influences. You will find most Greek, Turkish and Arabic dishes, often with a local name or twist. It is now decades since Cyprus has established itself as a tourist hotspot and as a consequence many of the local chefs have trained in Europe and elsewhere, bringing their experiences back home with them. As such most international cuisines are well represented (but unfortunately so are McDonald's & gang). In summary good food is not difficult to come by and most westerners will find dining quite affordable.

The shopping district is dotted with local tavernas and the likes of KFC and Pizza Hut. Virtually all restaurants allow smoking, (and unfortunately some don't even have a non-smoking area, and most restaurants with the non-smoking area don't enforce it). Al fresco dining is a luxury that can be enjoyed for over half the year. It would be a crime not to try (at least once) a mixed pork kebab with a chilled local KEO or Carlsberg (which is brewed locally and tastes different to the same brand overseas) beer. Carnivores are spoilt for choice, whilst vegetarians might find it a tad difficult.

The food is high quality and somewhat cheaper than in the most Western capitals. Snacks should be available from €2-4, kebabs from €7 and whole meals from €15-20. Local KEO beer costs around €4 a pint in bars, local wines starting from €10 a bottle. Hygienic standards are followed and even foods that usually are not recommended in the Mediterranean destinations, such as mayonnaise and salad-based foods, can be safely eaten.

Budget

 * Kebab houses. The epitome of Cyprus fast food. There is no neighbourhood without its local (99% of these are family-run businesses) so follow the BBQ smoke or smell. Try a traditional mixed kebab (aka souvlakia/sheftalia) with a cold KEO beer. That should set you back €12 at the most.
 * Sandwich kiosks. Several line Regina Str in central Nicosia close to Eleftheria Square. Some also offer doner kebab (gyros). You might have to stand whilst eating.



Drink
The substantial student population supports a flourishing industry of bars, pubs and nightclubs which keep the old city alive. Cypriots are true socialites and spend most of their time out as opposed to at home. In line with other south European countries going out is unheard of before 22:00-23:00. There is no official nightlife reference point but Makarios avenue turns into a catwalk cum cruising strip for Porsche owner show-offs. If you are after a more traditional flavour (generally catering for an older population) you could try a bouzouki bar.

Bars will stock the usual international brands of spirits. Local giants KEO beer and Carlsberg (the only other brand brewed on the island)also Leon beer, the first Cyprus brew, was relaunched 4 decades after it was last produced and traded in the market of Cyprus. Based on the original Leon recipe that was used in 1937, Leon is a pure all malt beer characterised by a rich and strong taste and aromahave a universal presence. Local wines are now making a comeback after years of medioaracy and decline. Commandaria is the pride of Cyprus' dessert wines. The local spirit zivania (very similar to grappa) is usually drank as shots straight from the freezer. Cyprus brandy was introduced about 150 years ago and differs from other continental brandies in its lower alcohol content (around 32%). As such it is often drank by locals whilst eating (and before and after) and is the basic ingredient for a local cocktail, The Brandy Sour. Local Ouzo is also another favourite.

Cafés
Coffee culture is a way of life in Nicosia. It is the place to see and be seen in the afternoon to early evening. In the summer months, tables spill on to the streets. The posh cafés line Makarios Avenue, intertwined with shops. Starbucks and Costa coffee have invaded the island but local equivalents also survive. For a change don't stick to the latté/cappuccino, try a Greek coffee. In the summer you must order a frappé (iced coffee).



Bars and pubs
There is not much of a distinction between the two, most will serve beer, wine, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages. Many will now serve food too, but kitchens usually close earlier than the bar.



Sleep
Being more of an administrative city plus the financial hub of the island, hotels tend to cater more for business travelers. Accommodation choice is more limited than the purely tourist destinations that line the coast

Budget






Splurge




Stay safe
Crime rates are generally low in Cyprus. Pickpockets and petty theft are a risk at touristed areas, and some scams may be prevalent in bars, though may be less of a problem than at the beach resorts.

Don't stray into the buffer zone other than at designated crossing points, and don't feel tempted to photograph military and police installations.

Connect
There's 4G coverage throughout Nicosia. Places to sleep also commonly offer free Wi-Fi.

Embassies

 * 🇪🇬 Egypt
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * You can cross over to Northern Cyprus and the northern side of Nicosia on foot or by car via the checkpoint near the Ledra Palace hotel, on the western side of the city wall. A more convenient checkpoint if you're on foot is the Ledra Street (Turkish: Lokmacı Caddesi) crossing which runs through the center of Nicosia.


 * Public buses take you to other major destinations in the Republic of Cyprus; Agia Napa in the southeast, Larnaca in the south, as well as Pafos and Limassol in the southwest.