Newcastle upon Tyne

Newcastle upon Tyne is a city in Tyne and Wear in the north-east of England. It's an industrial but lively, cultural place on the north bank of the River Tyne, with a population of just over 300,000 in 2019, and another half a million residing in its outlying areas.

Newcastle formed its own county or borough as early as 1400, between Northumberland to the north and County Durham to the south. In 1974 the nearby urban areas of those counties were combined with Newcastle to form the new metropolis of Tyne and Wear.

Understand
The Iraqi and Syrian occupation of town is nowadays forgotten, let bygones be bygones. But in 200 AD the Roman army recruited from those territories and brought so many to serve here that the depot fort was called Arbeia, the Arab place. Their job was to tote supplies from the ship wharves to the old castle of Pons Aelius, then up the military roads west along Hadrian's Wall (built 80 years earlier) or north into the bandit lands of the Picts. The Romans left around 400 AD and in their wake eventually grew up a kingdom of Northumbria, which knew the town as Munucceaster. But again and again, the region was devastated by Viking raids: what it needed was a new castle.

Robert Curthose obliged in 1080, fearing attack by Scots or rebels, though he mostly warred with his own family. (He was the eldest son of William the Conqueror but was disinherited, to spend his last 20 years in dungeons.) His wooden Novum Castellum was soon replaced by a stone castle, then another in 1172 which is the ruin you see today. Its walls were extended to protect the entire town, which stood out against the Scots and for several months against Cromwell; the region was Royalist in the Civil Wars then fell to assault.

Newcastle became industrial early in the Middle Ages, from salt-panning, coal that was shallow and easily mined, limestone quarried for masonry and quicklime, and farm produce from the fertile hinterland. Trade and transport by sea were important, including from London in an era when roads were miserable cart tracks, but it was only one of many ports along the Tyne, and small sailing vessels didn't need much harbour facilities. The burgesses of Newcastle set fire to the rival port at North Shields, but their masterstroke in 1290 was to win a Royal monopoly on local mining and export of coal. This lucrative cartel was only busted in 1750, while the other ports subsisted on other trade such as fish.

The city's industrial heyday was in the 19th century, with deep mining of coal, smoke-stack industry including shipbuilding, and a busy port. Urban squalour co-existed with the elegant central district of Grainger Town and Grey Street, nowadays one of the finest cityscapes in Britain. There were horrible accidents, cholera and a devastating factory explosion, but there was also electric lighting, steam-hauled railways and turboprop ships. The 20th century brought the slump of the miners' strike, the Depression and wartime bombing. There was enough variety and innovation of trade for the city to recover, with a growing public sector, two universities and attractive new architecture. By the 21st century, Newcastle could re-launch itself as a year-round leisure travel destination.

The climate is cool in summer (around 20°C) and seldom below freezing in winter. It's not particularly wet but can rain any time: see Tyne and Wear climate chart. Daylight hours range from 4:30AM to 9:45PM in the summer, to 8:30AM to just after 3:30PM in winter.

Tourist information

 * Visit Northeast England

Talk
The distinctive dialect here and throughout the northeast is "Geordie" — George or Geordie was a common name among local miners. Its pronunciation is closer to Anglo-Saxon than other English dialects, but its vocabulary is more modern. The only word you need to know is "Howay!", an all-purpose exclamation. Whether you understand anything else of it depends on whether the speaker wishes you to understand, so anyone reliant on your tourist money will ensure you do.

By plane
An alternative is Manchester Airport, with a great range of long-haul flights, saving the hassle of a change in Heathrow or Amsterdam. From the airport railway station, it's 3 hours to Newcastle: you may need to change at Manchester Piccadilly or York.

To and from the city

 * By Metro: A journey on the Tyne and Wear Metro takes around 20–25 minutes, with up to 5 trains per hour running during the day and up to 4 trains per hour running in the evening and on Sunday. As of July 2022, a single three-zone ticket costs £3.90 and an all-day three-zone ticket costs £5.70.
 * By bus: Stagecoach operate the half-hourly X78 service, which runs express to Eldon Square via Ponteland Road, with an average journey time of around 20–25 minutes.
 * By taxi: There is a taxi rank at the airport, with an average fare of around £15.00–£20.00.
 * By car: The airport is situated off the A696, which can be reached easily from a number of principal routes, including the A1, A68 & A69. The estimated journey time to the city centre from Newcastle International Airport is 15–20 minutes, with an increased travel time during peak hours.

By train


Newcastle is on the East Coast Main Line, with the following services:


 * LNER trains running once or twice an hour between Edinburgh (90 min) and London King's Cross (3 hours) via York (one hour).
 * Lumo also operate a few trains between Edinburgh and London.
 * CrossCountry runs hourly from the West Country via Birmingham (3 hours 30 min), Sheffield (2 hours 15 minutes), Leeds (90 min) and York.
 * TransPennine Express runs from Liverpool via Manchester Victoria (2 hours 30 min). The direct train from Manchester Airport and Manchester Piccadilly remains suspended in March 2023.
 * Northern Trains run from Carlisle (90 min) via Hexham and from Middlesbrough (80 min).

For timetables, fares, disruptions and real-time service information see National Rail. You can supplement your rail ticket with a Plusbus ticket for local buses. See the "Get around" section for further information. In most cases, few travellers benefit.

Central Station is on both lines of the Tyne & Wear Metro, with frequent trains to the airport, suburbs, Gateshead and outlying towns. See below.

By car
From north or south follow A1(M), which passes west of the city by Metrocentre. For most central destinations, use Exit 69 onto A184, which brings you in via Gateshead and the Tyne Bridge. Don't take A19, which bypasses the city away to the east via the toll tunnel. From Glasgow or Stranraer (from Ireland) head via Carlisle onto A69.

Newcastle Park & Rides are aimed at commuters from rural Northumberland, so they're mostly north and west:
 * Callerton Parkway and Kingston are on the Metro Green Line from the airport,
 * Newcastle Great Park at Wide Open uses the bus (but is closed in 2022)
 * Regent Centre to the north is on the Metro Yellow Line, as is Walkergate to the east.
 * Heworth near Gateshead is the only P&R south of the River Tyne: it's on both Metro lines but not particularly convenient for the A1.

The city centre has multi-storey carparks with over 10,000 spaces, charging around £2 per hour M-Sa 8AM-5PM and free at other times. Street parking is a last resort: it's pricey, is typically for a maximum of one hour, and the only space you can find is obstructed by a builder's skip.

Car hire companies include Europcar (who have a desk in Central Station), Avis, National, Sixt, Budget and Enterprise. These also serve the airport and Gateshead.

By bus
National Express buses take 7-8 hours from London Victoria via Milton Keynes, Sheffield, Leeds, Middlesbrough and Sunderland; one-way fares from London start from £7. There are three morning departures, one afternoon and one overnight. Four buses a day run from Liverpool via Manchester airport and city and Leeds, though you may need to change. Three a day run from Birmingham via Sheffield and Leeds, and three a day from Glasgow via Edinburgh.

Megabus have five buses a day from London Victoria, for similar fares. The fastest take 7 hours, but some take 10 hours via Heathrow airport, Coventry, Birmingham airport and city, Manchester airport and city, Huddersfield, Leeds, Middlesbrough and Sunderland. Megabus don't use Newcastle bus station, they stop on John Dobson Street a couple of blocks east of Eldon Square, close to the universities.

Stagecoach Bus 685 runs from Carlisle via Brampton, Haltwhistle (for Hadrian's Wall), Hexham, Corbridge and Heddon-on-the-Wall. It's supposed to be an hourly service but is sporadic in 2022. See Tyne and Wear for regional bus routes: you're always better by train or Metro where available, for instance from Berwick-upon-Tweed, Durham or Sunderland.

is simply a 5-bay bus stop with no waiting room or ticket office, but it's near city amenities. It's on Churchill St a quarter mile west of the mainline and Metro stations.

By boat
Port of Tyne, east of city centre, has overnight DFDS ferries from IJmuiden near Amsterdam. See Tynemouth for how to get there.

Get around
Walking is always first choice for city centre, the university main campuses, Quayside and the opposite river bank of Gateshead.

By bicycle
Newcastle is a reasonably cycle-friendly city, with cycle lanes and lock-up points. A few Metro stations have secure storage for bicycles, but only fold-away bikes are permitted on Metro trains. You don't need a bike in town, but might use one to explore Hadrian's Wall path or venture out to the coast. See Tyne and Wear for long distance bike routes.

Newcastle doesn't have a bike-share scheme, and the shops sell bikes and kit but don't hire, however there is one rental facility:

By bus
Go North East Q3 or Quaylink runs every 30 min south from Great Park P&R through Gosforth, Jesmond, Haymarket and Pilgrim St in city centre, then east along Quayside to St Peter's, Walker and Wallsend. Bus 33 also runs between Gosforth, Jesmond and the centre.

Bus 1 runs every 30 min from Gateshead to Market St in city centre, then east to Wallsend and the coast.

These city buses ply the streets and don't use the bus station. See Tyne and Wear for buses to the outlying towns, and individual towns' "Get in".

The bus companies offer day-tickets and longer passes, but these are only valid for the issuing company, with a variety of fare zones. For instance a Go North East day-ticket for city centre in 2022 is £5.30, more than separate there-and-back singles.

Plusbus is a supplement to your rail ticket, valid for local buses but not the Metro. A day ticket is adult £4, child £2. The travel area corresponds to Fare Zones A+B, so it costs more than an ordinary single, and only makes sense for multiple journeys. 7-day and longer tickets are available.

By Metro
Tyne & Wear Metro is quick and inexpensive, and is the best option for outlying areas. There are two lines, mostly overground, but running together underground through the city centre.

Trains run between 6AM and 11PM, normally every 6-10 min but in 2021/22 this is scaled back to 12-15 min. There are three fare zones: in 2022 a single for one is £2.30, two zones £3.20 and all zones (e.g. from the airport) £3.90. A day ticket for one zone is £3.60, for two is £4.70 and for all is £5.70. Plusbus is not valid on the Metro.
 * The Green Line runs from the airport to South Gosforth, the city centre, Gateshead, Heworth, Sunderland and South Hylton.
 * The Yellow Line makes a great loop north from St James in the city centre to Wallsend, North Shields, Tynemouth, Whitley Bay then South Gosforth, back through the city centre (crossing itself at Monument) then Gateshead, Heworth, Jarrow and North Shields. So for the north bank of Tyne always take the anti-clockwise loop, but for Whitley Bay, you could go either way.

Ticket machines take cards or cash. Main stations have ticket barriers. Outlying stations may have no gates or leave them open at quiet times, but ticket inspectors patrol and are wearily familiar with lame excuses by fare dodgers. Smoking is banned in the entire system, including open-air stations. All stations on the network offer step-free access from street to train, and the metro carriages have ample space for wheelchairs. Mobility scooters are not allowed on the Metro.

By train
You might use train rather than Metro or bus for a few districts, for similar fares: A new line is under construction in 2022 through the northern suburbs to Blyth and Ashington. It might open in 2024.
 * north via Manors (for both universities) to Cramlington and Morpeth. Manors Metro is 100 yards north of Manors railway station so it's not mapped as an interchange, but a short walk.
 * west via Dunston (west edge of Gateshead) and Metrocentre to Prudhoe, Corbridge, Hexham and Carlisle.
 * southeast via Heworth to Sunderland, Stockton-on-Tees and Middlesbrough.

By taxi
Operators include Premier (incorporating Newcastle Taxis), LA Taxis , Blueline , and Uber. They all get mixed reviews for reliability and general state of repair of vehicles and drivers. A ride from city centre to the airport in 2022 is around £15, and to the ferry terminal is £18.

See

 * The River Tyne north bank has a footpath and cycleway. It's called "Hadrian's Way" but is entirely modern, as the Roman original is lost under the city centre.
 * , completed in 1928, has a striking steel arch similar to Sydney Harbour Bridge. It carries A167 and has sidewalks on both sides.
 * , opened in 2001, is a cyclist and pedestrian tilting bridge. It's often called the Blinking or Winking Bridge for the way the footpath deck tilts up to allow river traffic to pass. That's an infrequent occurrence: Gateshead Council lists upcoming tilts.
 * Gateshead: the south bank of the Tyne is a separate city, but its main sites are along the riverside a short walk from Newcastle. For instance BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art is by the Millennium Bridge, and Gateshead also has Sage Music Centre, the Athletics Stadium, and Metro shopping centre. Angel of the North stands at the south tip of the city.
 * is the elegant heart of the city, built by Richard Grainger between 1835 and 1842. It includes the indoor Grainger Market (see Buy), Theatre Royal, Grey Street, Grainger Street and Clayton Street. Grey Street is sublime, a curving classical facade along the line of a culverted stream. It's named for Charles Grey (1764-1845), the 2nd Earl Grey and liberating, modernising Prime Minister who passed the Great Reform Act of 1832.
 * at the top of Grey Street was erected in 1838, standing 135 ft / 41 m tall. (Mi'lud also gives his name to Earl Grey Tea.) In 1941 the statue's head was shattered by a bolt of lightning, but a replica was affixed in 1947. Originally the column was on a traffic island but the area is now pedestrianised, a natural spot for buskers, protestors and latter-day prophets. Below the street is Monument Metro station, on the Green Line and at the crossing point of the Yellow loop-the-loop.
 * is a beautiful Edwardian shopping arcade, within Grainger's Central Exchange Building. It hosts the venerable music shop Windows of the Arcade, but hasn't escaped the hollowing out of British High Streets, with many units vacant in 2021.
 * is a beautiful Edwardian shopping arcade, within Grainger's Central Exchange Building. It hosts the venerable music shop Windows of the Arcade, but hasn't escaped the hollowing out of British High Streets, with many units vacant in 2021.
 * is along Stowell Street, with a Chinese Arch at its north entrance off St Andrews St. Lots of Chinese, Korean and Japanese restaurants and shops, see Eat.
 * is a park in the bosky gorge of the Ouseburn river, laid out by the industrialist and inventor Lord Armstrong in the 1860s. Multiple access points, the Metro Yellow and Green Lines run half a mile west to their fork at South Gosforth.

Further afield

 * is actually Wall's Beginning, as construction of Hadrian's Wall started here in 122 AD and worked west. The Roman fort of Segedunum is next to Mile Zero of the wall and Wallsend Metro station (not Hadrian Road). Hadrian's Wall path and cycleway follows the north bank of the Tyne but is entirely modern for 14 miles west, as through Newcastle the ancient route and structures are obliterated.
 * Stephenson Railway Museum: see Tynemouth.
 * Tynemouth at the river outflow has a ruined castle and priory and is a beach resort.
 * The Angel of the North is the distinctive 20-m winged sculpture by Antony Gormley. It's at the south edge of Gateshead, at the junction of the A1 and A167. From Newcastle city centre or Gateshead Interchange (on the Metro), take bus route 21 "The Angel" to Durham Road / Deneford.
 * Hadrian's Wall can be discerned west from Heddon-on-the Wall, though the best parts begin 20 miles further west around Hexham.

Do

 * What's on? Read The Crack magazine.

Music

 * See Gateshead for Sage Music Centre. It's easiest accessed from Newcastle by walking across the low-level swing bridge.
 * Northumbria and Newcastle University have large venues in their unions' for mainstream and indie acts alike and attract some of the biggest names from across the UK and abroad.
 * For smaller, indie gigs check out Head of Steam, The Cluny and Tyne Bar
 * Northumbria and Newcastle University have large venues in their unions' for mainstream and indie acts alike and attract some of the biggest names from across the UK and abroad.
 * For smaller, indie gigs check out Head of Steam, The Cluny and Tyne Bar
 * For smaller, indie gigs check out Head of Steam, The Cluny and Tyne Bar

Sport

 * Aal the lads and lasses there, aal wi' their smiling faces, gannin' alang the Scotswood Road to see the Blaydon Races.
 * - Racing at Blaydon closed in 1916, but Newcastle United fans will appreciate you knowing the words and singing along


 * is nowadays to the north at High Gosforth Park NE3 5HP. It's an artificial Tapeta surface, with flat-racing held year-round and jumps races Oct-March. It's a mile north of South Gosforth on both metro lines.
 * Football: Newcastle United play at, half a mile north of the railway station. They play soccer in the Premier League, England's top tier. Since 2021 they are by some distance the world's richest club, being owned by the Saudi Arabian sovereign investment fund.
 * Rugby Union (15-a-side): Newcastle Falcons were promoted in 2020 so they now play in the Premiership, the top tier of English rugby union. Their home ground is in the north of the city.
 * Rugby League (13-a-side): Newcastle Thunder folded in 2023 so the city lacks a pro RL team.
 * Basketball: Newcastle Eagles play at the Vertu Motors Arena.
 * Go to the dog track, also at Brough Park - the dogs chase round the outer track, the bikes race within.
 * Athletics at, south of the river with its own Metro station. This multi-use stadium hosts other events, and its sports facilities can be used by members.
 * Watch cricket at the Riverside Ground in Chester-le-Street,  south. This is home to Durham County Cricket Club, one of the 18 First Class Counties, the top tier of English cricket. County matches normally last 3-4 days. The stadium also hosts international or Test Matches, lasting up to five days. The stadium is half a mile east of the railway station, frequent trains take ten min from Newcastle.

Cinema

 * Side Cinema is within Side Gallery, see above.
 * Odeon is in the Metrocentre (see Buy) in Gateshead. Vue Cinema is in central Gateshead.
 * Side Cinema is within Side Gallery, see above.
 * Odeon is in the Metrocentre (see Buy) in Gateshead. Vue Cinema is in central Gateshead.
 * Odeon is in the Metrocentre (see Buy) in Gateshead. Vue Cinema is in central Gateshead.
 * Odeon is in the Metrocentre (see Buy) in Gateshead. Vue Cinema is in central Gateshead.

Events

 * Chinese New Year follows a lunar calendar, so the next is in February 2024, starting the Year of the Dragon. Expect firecrackers, drums and weaving dragons in the vicinity of Stowell St 11AM-4PM.
 * Hoppings is a funfair in late June, held on Town Moor (Metro or bus to Jesmond). The next is anticipated for June 2024.
 * Northern Pride is a gay pride festival on Town Moor in July, with the next on 20-21 July 2024.
 * MELA means "meeting" in Hindi and it's a celebration of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi cuisine, music and art. It's held on the August bank holiday on Exhibition Park, the south corner of Town Moor (directions as above) with spillover events around the Monument. The next is Sunday 27 to Monday 28 Aug 2023.
 * Great North Run is a half marathon, staged between Newcastle and South Shields in September. The next is Sunday 10 Sep 2023.
 * Christmas Market is held through December to Christmas Eve, centred on Monument. In bygone years this had a funfair and extended down Northumberland St, but the scale of the 2023 market is not yet known.

Work
Employers always hiring are the call centres here and in Gateshead, and the many bars and restaurants.

As elsewhere in the UK, British and Irish citizens always have the right to take up work, but other EU nationals generally do not.

Buy

 * is the city's pedestrianised main shopping mall. The flagship is Fenwicks; others include JD Sports, Primark and Marks and Spencer.
 * is the block west of Northumberland St. It has John Lewis, Argos, Boots and Next.
 * Cloth Market, west of Grey St, has vintage clothing shops.
 * Farmer's Market is around Grey's Monument. It's normally first Friday every month 9:30AM-2:30PM but is suspended as of 2021.
 * Farmer's Market is around Grey's Monument. It's normally first Friday every month 9:30AM-2:30PM but is suspended as of 2021.

Eat

 * Chinatown is along Stowell St, and Bigg Market has an eclectic mix of eateries. The Quayside and Central Station areas have plenty more.

City centre

 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.
 * Otherwise there are also found the chain restaurants JD Wetherspoon, eat4less, Chicken Cottage, Wok Inn, Tortilla and Chicken Shack.

Splurge



 * And see Sleep for Jesmond Dene House.
 * And see Sleep for Jesmond Dene House.
 * And see Sleep for Jesmond Dene House.
 * And see Sleep for Jesmond Dene House.
 * And see Sleep for Jesmond Dene House.

Drink
The main drinking strips are Bigg Market, Quayside and around Central Station.

Jesmond
Jesmond and Gosforth are upmarket areas, and several bars are part of hotels.

Breweries

 * Lots! There are nowadays no big commercial breweries hereabouts, but small independents include Newcastle Brewing, Brinkburn Street, Full Circle, Northern Alchemy, Wylam, Almasty, Anarchy, and Tyne Bank.
 * Gateshead just across the bridge has several more.
 * Newcastle Brown is the city's flagship ale but local production ended in 2005. Now owned by Heineken, the domestic product is brewed in Tadcaster, North Yorkshire, and the export product is made in Zoeterwoude near Leiden in the Netherlands. It's 4.7% ABV; in 2015 the red-brown colouring agent was switched from caramel to roasted malt. It's traditionally sold in pint (568 ml) clear bottles, served cold but not chilled. It pours quietly without a head, so you can fill your glass to the brim without froth escaping down your pants. In Britain it's marketed as a trad, no-nonsense, working-man's budget pint, while other markets get jazzier treatments. Some find it insipid and gassy (what doesn't bubble out as a head is sure to make its presence known elsewhere) but it's a question of the right drink for the right occasion. On a dreary day with the drizzle blowing in from the North Sea, you'll be grateful to sit down to a meat casserole or pie with a bottle or three of Nookie Broon within reach.

Sleep

 * See Gateshead for accommodation south bank of the river, and Tynemouth for the strip along A19 the eastern bypass.
 * If your schedule allows, staying mid-week rather than at the weekend. Some hotels charge more for a two night Friday and Saturday stay than for five nights from Sunday to Thursday.

Budget




Connect
As of July 2021, Newcastle has 5G from EE and 4G from the other UK carriers.

Stay safe
Newcastle is a safe city, and friendly in its hard-faced northern way. Watch for traffic, avoid drunks and boisterous revellers, safeguard valuables, you'll do fine. There are rough outlying areas where you have no reason to go.

Historically there was a sharp rivalry between Newcastle Utd and Sunderland, but the disparity in league standings and club wealth means that anyone taken to be a Sunderland supporter nowadays won't get more than derisory banter. Nevertheless, you should avoid wearing Sunderland shirts while in Newcastle unless you want to risk inviting harassment from local football fans.

Cope
Medical: only go to Hospital for outright emergencies. Otherwise try the walk-in centres at Westgate or Molineaux St, or phone 111.

Pharmacies: in Eldon Square is open M-Sa to 8PM, Su to 5PM. The others keep standard shop hours.

Laundrettes: on Fenham Rd is open M-Sa 9:30AM-5PM. Coin-op on Heaton Rd is open M-Sa 9AM-6PM.

Go next

 * Tynemouth, a short Metro ride east, stands on the coast with a ruined priory and castle.
 * Hadrian's Wall starts just east of the city at Wallsend, but the best of it is - west between Hexham and Brampton, with sites such Vindolanda and Housesteads.
 * Alnwick is a charming small town with a fine castle and gardens, and Alnmouth is a picturesque village on the coast. The railway station is between them, with a connecting bus.
 * Durham is only 20 min by train. Its castle and cathedral are set in a well-preserved old town centre.
 * Beamish has an extensive Open Air Museum depicting northern town life circa 1913.
 * Northumberland's coastal highlights are Dunstanburgh Castle north of Alnwick, Bamburgh castle near Seahouses, and the tidal Holy Isle of Lindisfarne.
 * Northumberland National Park has forests centred on Kielder reservoir, with activities such as abseiling, canoeing, hiking and mountain biking.