Nanchang

Nanchang (南昌 Nánchāng) is the capital of Jiangxi Province and is the cultural, economic, and scientific center of Jiangxi. The city has deep ties to Chinese communist history, known as Heroes' City because it was here that the "first shots of the revolution were heard"; it's where the communist uprising of 1 August 1927 began. This is why "BaYi" (8-1; August 1st) is throughout the city, including the central square with its monument. That spirit lives on in the people, who are considered loud and perhaps even aggressive -- even by Chinese standards.

Understand
The city is largely split (both in geography, and in social class) by the Gan river (Ganjiang). Compare the old, cultural, and claustrophobic main city of Nanchang (east of the Gan River) with the new, shiny, almost cultureless city of Honggutan, to the west of the river (where many expats live). It is connected by a few bridges, the BaYi and Nanchang bridges being the most used. The BaYi Bridge joins the old city on the east bank of the river with the new city on the west. The bridge is 'honored' with the communist name "BaYi" (Mao's revolution) but at the same time having Deng Xiaoping's "black and white cats" of capitalistic-communism adorning the old bridge to the new, developed area of Honggutan. The city, like most Chinese cities, is dealing with the new wave of Chinese wealth, and old traditions are quickly eroding in favor of Maseratis and tall 5-star hotels along the river. Perhaps in few places in China is the divide between old customs and new wealth as apparent as in divided Nanchang.

By plane


All departing passengers go through a luggage scan first before proceeding to the check-in counters. Thereafter, proceed to the customs immigration counters and later, the more thorough security screening stations.

Not all international flights park near the terminals with aero-bridge access. Shenzhen Airlines flight from Singapore parks on the tarmac, requiring passengers to descend via stairs to the ground and be transported to the terminals via bus. This is also the case during winter months.

There are a handful of international flights from Singapore, Taipei, Chiang Mai and other Asian cities. Direct, cheap flights to Pattaya, Thailand, are of worthy mention, here. There is an "airport bus" (¥15-20) that is significantly cheaper than taking a taxi (¥80-100). If you do take a taxi, tell the taxi driver "da biao" (meter) to make sure you don't get ripped off. There are usually taxi stand supervisors who ensure the drivers will do this. Taxis to downtown Nanchang Train Station costs about ¥120, including high way tolls. Please do note that Chinese Taxis are usually of the smaller VW Santana model. The boot space is not large enough to fit 2 pieces of 28" luggage. If travelling in threes or more, please use a bigger taxi.

By train
It has high-speed trains running from Shanghai, etc. as well as overnight and standard, slow trains. It's a far taxi ride even into the center of Honggutan (¥45), let alone into Nanchang.

Nanchang Train Station is the old train station in Nanchang. It has a few high-speed trains to nearby destinations Jiu Jiang and Lushan.

Get around
Taxis and buses (and the new "metro" underground rail) are the most popular ways of getting around, but you can also rent motorcycle taxis at your own risk.

Bus journeys are ¥2 (new for 2016) regardless of distance traveled (¥2+ for the double decker buses).

Taxi fare in Nanchang is standard for China, with the initial starting price for a ride in a taxi being ¥8 (new taxis), and for the old taxis (usually light blue or light green) being ¥6 (old taxis) -- both for up to 2 km (or certain wait time). Beyond this mandatory starting-price-region, the rate is ¥1.9 per kilometer. The taxi fare has an additional 20% surcharge at night, between 23:00 and 05:00.

Metro: As of 2023, there are 4 metro lines in the city, with a 5th under construction (as well as extensions to lines 1 & 2)

Motorcycle taxis are another option. While it is illegal to ride a gas-powered bike in Nanchang, but these motorcycle taxi drivers do it in droves - as do many laowai. You can usually get away with it, but it is risky. Even if motorcycle taxi are not ticketed by police, it comes down to your feeling of personal safety, being on the back of a motorcycle. If you don't know the price for a standard distance, you'll probably get ripped off. It's a good idea to haggle about 10-20% (at least) off the cost of what he's offering.

Bicycle: On the streets of Nanchang, there are shared bicycles and shared electric vehicles for rent. If you do not go far away and want to go shopping in the busy streets, it will be more convenient to rent a shared bicycle, which can avoid the congestion of cars. However, it should be noted that you must park according to the regulations, park in the specified parking area and obey the traffic rules and wear a helmet. There are fines if these rules are not followed.

Do
Walk along the west bank of the Gan river on a Saturday or Sunday and buy a cheap kite (Y10-30); join the hundreds of Chinese kite fliers. It's surprisingly fun.

Amusement parks - There is the Wanda Amusement Park in south Honggutan. There is also a smaller "fair" styled (but permanent) amusement park on the west bank of the Gan river (just south of the BaYi bridge in Honggutan). Here you can ride some surprisingly decent (and terrifying) rides, or try the dangerously-fast bumper cars for an awesome thrill and potential spinal injuries. You can also buy a wide variety of food at the outdoor food market, including stinky tofu and all assortments of chicken and icecream.

Bike - Buy a bike for ¥300 at Beijing Lu, ca 200 m off Ba Yi Square and discover the city on two wheels.

Hike and wander around the MeiLing mountains, west of the City. Consider checking out WanLi, a small town and gateway to fabulous hiking, biking, and other routes.

Rafting - At Meiling, there is a fantastic "white water rafting" course. It costs about ¥100, but is well-worth the cost. To get to it, you need to take a taxi or private van up through WanLi and still up, along a winding road and around the side of a hill town. The rafting place is at the end of a small road up there (talk to a local Chinese, who can search baidu for you). The rafting place has about 20 two-person inflatable rafts that bounce down the river (which has been artificially turned into a course with cemented rocks along the sides). Experience class 2 and 3 rapids, and have a lot of fun. You will likely not fall out of the rafts, but you will get soaked. Spend the extra ¥15 and get the "water guns" from the small shop, there. They add a whole new level to a group rafting outing, and are a hell of a lot of fun. Overall, highly recommended experience. Cost: ~¥120 per person, plus transport to/from rafting place.

Paintball, laser tag, and real CS - All across China you can find "real CS" which, although they'll tell you is paintball, is usually laser tag. There's a laser tag place under the Star of Nanchang Ferris Wheel. Some people think that's fun.

Eat

 * Century egg wonton. Century egg wonton is made of century egg and fresh pork, and then mixed with spices to make wonton stuffing. The skin of century egg wontons is thinner than that of ordinary wontons. Wonton soup includes dried shrimps and laver, so that the soup bottom and century egg wonton can be better integrated.
 * Century egg wonton. Century egg wonton is made of century egg and fresh pork, and then mixed with spices to make wonton stuffing. The skin of century egg wontons is thinner than that of ordinary wontons. Wonton soup includes dried shrimps and laver, so that the soup bottom and century egg wonton can be better integrated.
 * Century egg wonton. Century egg wonton is made of century egg and fresh pork, and then mixed with spices to make wonton stuffing. The skin of century egg wontons is thinner than that of ordinary wontons. Wonton soup includes dried shrimps and laver, so that the soup bottom and century egg wonton can be better integrated.
 * Nanchang poaching. Poaching is a common cooking method, but in Nanchang, unique seasonings from Jiangxi are used, resulting in a spicy taste. The most unique among them is the ingredient called footboard (jiao'ban). This is unique to Nanchang. It is a soy product, with two intact tofu skins wrapped in crushed tofu skins. The crushed tofu skins are very absorbent and swell and bulge when cooked.

Drink
MinDe Lu is the main bar street. Here you will find the bars most popular with the expat community, including Muse & C2 Clubs, Queen, and Helen's (nearby). There is also, apparently, a main walking street, with an upscale apartment complex, where there are 3-4 bars and a few clubs, all of which are hopping on the weekends. Another area is found around Fuzhou Road, there is VV club, and CD 1925. Honggutan (west of the Gan river) also has the second Bossa Nova Bar, very popular with Expats.



Stay safe
The people of Nanchang are very loud. Westerners see them as yelling at one another, perhaps even aggressive. Generally, assume the person is just being friendly with you, not affronting. If things do get violent for some reason, note than there are stories floating around in China that Chinese will not fight fair (ie: swarming/group attacks, knives/weapons), in order to save face against a Westerner.

Pickpockets may be around, especially near Zhongshan Road area. They can steal things even from your shirt pocket! Never leave your belongings unattended in restaurants or shops, even if it is an upper-class one.

However, in general most of China (Nanchang being no real exception) is quite safe -- the worst most people may encounter is a taxi driver trying to rip you off.

Go next
Nanchang is a good place to start other trips in Jiangxi Province. It has good connections with Lushan, Jingangshan, Jingdezhen, Wuyuan etc.

Famed Lushan is about 2½-hour bus ride to the north or a 1hr High Speed Train ride at ¥40.