Nan

Nan (น่าน) is a town in the remote valley of the Nan River in the Northern River Valleys region of Northern Thailand, bordering Laos. The area is heavily forested with arable land used mainly for agriculture. It is an ancient city steeped in history with its long association with the Lanna Thai culture and the Sukhothai kingdom.

Although Nan is often overlooked by foreign tourists, don't let that discourage you from visiting. In fact, if you're seeking an authentic Thai experience, Nan is the perfect place to be.

Understand
Nan, a lesser-known region of Thailand, has a rich history that dates back centuries. It was once an autonomous kingdom that had limited contact with the outside world. Interestingly, the name "Nan" is also used to describe moon-faced children with buck teeth who are considered annoying in Thailand.

History
Archaeological evidence shows that prehistoric people inhabited the area, but it was not until the mid-14th century that several small meuangs (city-states) united to form Nanthaburi on the Nan River. This was around the same time that the Lan Xang (Million Elephants) kingdom was established in Laos and Luang Prabang was created. Nanthaburi, associated with the powerful Sukhothai kingdom, was given the title Wara Nakhon and played a significant role in the development of early Thai nationalism.

By the late 14th century, Nan had become one of the nine northern Thai-Lao principalities that formed Lan Na Thai, which is now known as Lanna. The city-state flourished under the name Chiang Klang (Middle City) in the 15th century. It was so named because of its location between Chiang Mai (New City) and Chiang Thong (Golden City, which is now Luang Prabang).

In 1558, the Burmese invaded and took control of the kingdom. They deported many of the inhabitants to Burma as slaves, and the city was completely deserted. It was not until 1786 that western Thailand was reclaimed from the Burmese, and the local dynasty regained sovereignty over Nan. However, it remained semi-autonomous until 1931 when it finally accepted the full dominion of Bangkok.

Visitors to contemporary Nan can still see parts of the old city wall and several early wats that date back to the Lanna period. The city's wats are unique and influenced by both Lanna and Tai Lü architecture. The Tai Lü people brought this architectural style from Xishuangbanna in China, where they originated from.

Orientation
The city spreads out along around 4 km, between the airport at the north end of town and the bus station at the south end, but its historical and commercial centre is more compact. Its area follows roughly a north-south orientation, along the right bank of the River Nan. The two main axes of the town, more or less parallel, are Sumonthewarat Rd (the easternmost and the closest to the river) and the Mahayot Rd. The city's main monuments are located at the junction of the three parallel axes: Pha Kong Rd (west), Mahayot Rd (middle), and Sumonthewarat Rd (east) and Suriyapong Rd which is perpendicular to them. As for the main shops, they can be found along the Sumonthewarat Rd and its perpendicular, Anantaworattidet Rd.

In the town, three bridges connect the right bank to the left bank of the River Nan: the southernmost, the Sriboonruang Bridge, the middle one, the Pattana Paknue Bridge, under which are held the boat races, and the northernmost, the Nakorn Nan Pattana Bridge.



Get in
Nan is connected by plane and by bus to the rest of the country.

By plane

 * Thai Smile connects to Nan from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), Greater Bangkok.
 * Air Asia connects to Nan from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) and Don Mueang Airport (DMK).l

By train
The train station serving Nan is Den Chai in Phrae Province, 145 km from Nan. From the train station, take a songthaew parked in front of the station to Phrae bus station, about 30 min. Then catch a bus to Nan. There is also bus service directly to Nan from Den Chai. But you need to go to Den Chai bus station to take the bus.

By bus
The best way to get to Nan is by bus. Download the Green Bus app for easy booking and schedule inquiries. Green bus is the sole bus company servicing Nan in the north.


 * From Bangkok: Buses to and from Bangkok take between 10 and 13 hours, according to the type of bus.
 * From Chiang Mai: 6–7 hours.
 * From Chiang Rai: 5–6 hours @ 09:30 from the Old Bus Station in Chiang Rai, 164 baht.
 * From Phrae: 2 hours
 * From Phitsanulok: 5 hours @ 11:00 and 16:30
 * From Laos: Bus from Pakbeng via Muang Ngeun, 6-8 hours including border crossing (Feb 2024).

By car
One of the most efficient ways to get around the city is by car. The roads in Nan are typically spacious, well-maintained, and kept clean, making for a comfortable and smooth driving experience.

By motorcycle
Nan’s charm is undeniable, but the best part is the region and nature around the province, so renting a motorbike is recommended.

There are a few places nearby the bus station. Ask around to find a motorbike.

Prices in Nan tend to be a bit higher than other regions. This is due to the isolation and lack of tourist infrastructure. Expect to pay 250-300 baht per day (compared to 150-200 in Pai or Chiang Mai).

Two other places are:


 * Hill Tribe House, 430/1 Sumondhevaraj Rd, Nai Weing (on the far side of Nan River, but you can just call and they come and collect you), . Do a "Nan Riding and Camping Tour". You can also just rent a motorcycle. They have only 125cc bikes.
 * Ultimate Adventure, 77/1-2 Mahawong Rd. Has Honda Dreams 110cc (250 baht/day), Kawasaki D-Tracker 125cc (500 baht/day), and Kawasaki KlX 250cc (800 baht/day). All bikes are new.

See
According to the Bangkok Post, the top two attractions are Doi Samer Dao and Wat Phumin, a temple with many local art masterpieces.





Events

 * Namatsakan Phrathat Beng Sakat Fair (งานนมัสการพระธาตุเบ็งสกัด) is organized on the full night of the 4th northern lunar month (around January).
 * Hok Peng Waisa Mahathat Chae Haeng Fair (งานประเพณี "หกเป็งไหว้สามหาธาตุแช่แห้ง") takes place on the full moon night of the 6th northern lunar month or the 4th central lunar month (around the end of February–March). Sky rockets are fired as an offering to the Buddha.
 * Namatsakan Phrathat Khao Noi Fair (งานประเพณีนมัสการพระธาตุเขาน้อย) takes place on the full moon night of the 8th northern lunar month or the 6th central lunar month (around May). In the festival, there is a ceremony paying respect to Phrathat Khao Noi and sky rockets are fired as an offering to the Buddha.
 * Namatsakan Song Nam Phrachao Thongthip Fair (งานประเพณีนมัสการสรงน้ำพระเจ้าทองทิพย์) at Wat Suan Tan during the Songkran festival on 12–15 April.
 * Tan Kuai Salak, Hae Khua Tan or Khrua Than Festival (งานตานก๋วยสลาก หรืองานแห่คัวตาน หรือ ครัวทาน) Than Salak or Kuai Salak is an ancient tradition created in the Buddha's time. For the northern people, it is considered as a major local merit making ceremony possessing local uniqueness. Monks are invited to receive the offerings by drawing lots.
 * Tan Kuai Salak, Hae Khua Tan or Khrua Than Festival (งานตานก๋วยสลาก หรืองานแห่คัวตาน หรือ ครัวทาน) Than Salak or Kuai Salak is an ancient tradition created in the Buddha's time. For the northern people, it is considered as a major local merit making ceremony possessing local uniqueness. Monks are invited to receive the offerings by drawing lots.

Motorbiking
The top activity in Nan is motorbiking around the area. There are numerous national parks and tons of nature. As always, side roads are safer (and more interesting) than highways so try to stick to those. In general, road conditions are excellent and far fewer drivers are on the roads than other regions.

There is an excellent loop accessible from Nan called the Bo Kluea loop. It is a stunning and empty circuit that could be a day trip, but recommended 2/3 days to allow yourself to stop and take all the wonderful pictures you can.

Buy
Banks with ATMs can be found all over town, notably at Sumonthewarat Rd, Anantaworrattidet Rd and Sumon Thevarat Rd.

Handicrafts
Good buys include local textiles, especially the Thai Lu weaving styles. Typical Thai Lu fabrics feature red and black designs on white cotton in floral, geometric and animal designs and also indigo and red on white. The lai naam lai (flowing-water design) shows stepped patterns representing streams, rivers and waterfalls. Other excellent quality textiles are the local Hmong appliqué and the Mien embroidery. Thin grass-and-bamboo baskets and mats and Hmong silverware are also available.

Nan is noted for making musical instruments which include the saloh (สะล้อ), a violin-like instrument, and the sung (ซึง), similar to a guitar. They are used in bands which can still be heard in certain restaurants.

Silverware, wood carving and hilltribe handicraft

The leading agricultural produce is the Som Si Thong (golden orange) (ส้มสีทอง) which are of the same species as oranges of the central region. Because of climatic differences, the local version is golden-skinned and more aromatic. They are in season in December.



Stay safe
Nan is a remarkably safe city, making it an ideal destination for travellers who prioritise safety and security.

Go next
If you plan on staying in Thailand or South East Asia for long, here are a few options to consider:


 * Laos: Since Nan is close to the border with Laos, crossing over to Laos is an excellent option for travelers. The nearest border crossing is Huai Kon, which is about 2 hours from Nan by car. From there, travellers can explore the stunning UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang or head further south to Vang Vieng or the capital city of Vientiane. Make sure that your paperwork is in order before crossing over to Laos; the immigration regulations of Laos are much different than those of Thailand.
 * Chiang Mai: the cultural hub of Northern Thailand, is about a 5-hour drive away from Nan.
 * Sukhothai: an ancient city. Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.