Nablus

Nablus (Arabic نابلس, Hebrew שכם, Shechem) is a large city (population approximately 300,000) within the Palestinian Territories, in the Central Highlands of the West Bank, some 63 km north of Jerusalem.

Understand
Nablus is one of the oldest cities in the world, possibly established 9,000 years ago. It was called "Shechem" by its Canaanite and Israelite inhabitants. Shechem was the first capital of the northern ancient Israelite kingdom. The Romans built a new city (Flavia Neapolis, in honor of Flavius Vespasian) a short distance from Shechem. The name Nablus comes from Neapolis. The old city of Nablus is on the site of Neapolis, but in modern times the city has grown to include the site of Shechem as well.

Nablus is distinguished by its location in a narrow valley between the two mountains Gerizim and Ebal. This makes for an impressive view when you are in the city.

Schools were established in the middle of the 19th century during the short reign of Ibrahim Pasha, but maintained their existence in the following years when the Ottomans regained control of the region. On 11 July 1927 the town suffered a major earthquake. Much of the consequent damage to buildings was never repaired, and the ruinous condition of many of them may well have encouraged the inhabitants to move outside the old city to build their new houses, although some new building to the north and west of the old city had already been undertaken before 1927. The arrival of the motor car has increased emigration to the slopes of Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal, where new roads allow vehicles the easy access denied them in the hilly and partly-stepped streets of the old city.

During the British Mandate (1917–1948), Nablus became the core of Palestinian Arab Nationalism, and it was the center of resistance against the British. After the 1948 Arab-Israeli war, Nablus came under Jordanian rule, and two refugee camps were built near the city. In 1967, Nablus was occupied by the Israeli army for years, which caused much damage to the city. Three refugee camps were added to accommodate the people who fled to the city.

Nablus was invaded and occupied in 2002 during the Second Intifada, and has been raided frequently ever since. Nablus has a particularly high concentration of open anti-Israeli sentiments for a major West Bank city; you can see many memorials to Palestinians killed during Israeli attacks in the old city, and the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) and Palestinian militants occasionally clash in some parts of greater Nablus such as the refugee camps. There are many damaged buildings and debris-filled fields around Nablus, the result of past Israeli aerial bombing, but the residents of Nablus have been working hard on repairing their city and the visible damage lessens every day. Israeli restrictions on the city are generally looser than they used to be, and a visit to Nablus in the daytime is a safe and worthwhile trip.

Get in
As of July 2010 there were no checkpoints for buses and service taxis (aka servees) entering Nablus from other West Bank cities, although you will need your passport and visa stamp to enter back into Israeli territory upon your return.

By bus
Ramallah and Jerusalem: From Jerusalem, take the #18 bus to Ramallah. The bus departs from the bus station off Nablus Road north of Damascus Gate and the Old City. A #18 bus leaves every 10 minutes throughout the day, and it costs ₪7. This bus will drop passengers off at the main street in Ramallah, but stay on until the main bus station. From the Ramallah Bus Station, a bus runs to Nablus (₪10.5) but the last bus leaves early, often around 4PM. If the last bus has already left a servees taxi will take you to Nablus from Ramallah for around ₪17. There are at least four bus stations in Ramallah, so ask around if you get off/start at the wrong one.

Other West Bank cities: Servees taxis are easily found to Nablus from all major west bank transportation centres including Jenin (₪20), Tulkarm, Jericho, and other cities.

By plane
Ben Gurion International Airport (TLV) is the main international airport serving Israel and the West Bank. From Ben Gurion it is cheapest to take a "sherut" (shared taxi) to the bus station on Nablus Road by Damascus Gate, and then follow the directions above to Nablus. A sherut from Ben Gurion to Jerusalem costs ₪50 and runs constantly 24 hours a day.

Get around
Most of the urban area of Nablus is small enough to be navigated on foot. It is not recommend that you wander around too much as there are a number of neighborhoods in Nablus that may have troubles with IDF raids and public unrest. However, the tensions have eased, but you should still check for the latest situation.

The public transportation in Nablus is informal, and is normally done by sharing service taxis (aka servees). The black-and-yellow taxis (sometimes with a Hebrew "Monit" sign on top) will take you anywhere in Nablus, and it's easy to find people to share the taxi with for many locations.

See

 * The Souq (The q is silent) is a typical colorful and loud Palestinian vegetable market located right in the center of town. Look for the tent roofs.
 * The Souq (The q is silent) is a typical colorful and loud Palestinian vegetable market located right in the center of town. Look for the tent roofs.

Close-by popular sights of the West Bank (read here) are Sebastia Archaeological Park (conveniently located if you go north towards Jenin), Awarta village, Kifl Hares and Aqabah with the twin minaret.

Do

 * Climb Mount Gerizim or Mount Ebal on either side of Nablus for a beautiful view of the city. A small Samaritan community, one of only two left in the world, resides atop Mt. Gerizim, and you can get a look at their temple on the mountaintop. Mt Gerizim is the most holiest place for the Samaritan religion, believed by the Samaritans to be the first piece of land ever created by God, and the Samaritan community there offers a tour of their community to visitors. If you can come for their Passover (not necessarily the same date as the modern Jewish Passover!) you will see a colorful festival involving the consumption of lamb and goat sacrifices, comparable to Jewish practices 2,000 years ago. Check for opening hours.

Turkish baths
Nablus has a living bathing culture which includes the oldest hammam in Palestine, the Hammam ash-Shifa. Enjoy a day getting pampered. Prices are between ₪50-70. Notice that bathing is gender segregated, usually 1-2 times per week is reserved for women while it's men-only on other days.



Buy

 * Olive oil in Nablus is some of the best olive oil you can find anywhere. It can be purchased in several shops in the old city. Keep in mind that the olive oil you purchase will be handed to you in a leftover coca-cola bottle or in a few layers of plastic bags.
 * Nablus's Old City also has numerous candy factories, and spice markets.
 * Nablus's Old City also has numerous candy factories, and spice markets.

Eat
Kunafa/Kenafeh (sugary couscous pastry on top of melted goat cheese) is one of the most popular Palestinian treats. Nablus residents boast that Kunafa Nablusy is the best in Palestine, and no trip to Nablus is complete without it.



You can get other sweets from Nablus as well, ha-lawa (baklava) and zalabya (sweet fried pastry) are very delicious.



Drink
Alcohol is difficult to find in Nablus. Try one of the many fine sheesha (water pipe) cafes downtown instead. You can buy alcohol in the samaritan village at Gerizim.

Sleep


If you don't know their addresses, you can ask anybody in the street or get in a taxi and tell the driver to take you to any one of these hotels.

Go next
Shared minibus taxis (sherut/servees) leaving Nablus tend to congregate around the center of town and along the two-sided Al-Gazalah (Al-Hadadeen) Street going southeast out of town. Ask the waiting drivers which cities they're going to until you find yours or they point you into the right direction.


 * Ramallah – Not so exciting, but the de facto seat of government of the Palestinian authority. There is a bus that goes to Ramallah (₪10.5) from the station, but the last bus leaves at 4PM. A servees taxi to Ramallah costs ₪15, and from Ramallah the bus to Jerusalem is ₪7 and leaves from the main bus station in Ramallah.
 * Jerusalem – Besides the Dead Sea, a central focus for most people coming to this region.
 * Bethlehem – The biblical birthplace of Jesus and hometown of David, surrounded by Mar Saba Monastery and Herodium (Herodion) Park.
 * Jericho – One of the oldest settlements in the world and the Middle East, and a great starting point for Kalya Beach at the Dead Sea.
 * Jenin – Its name's meaning is The spring of gardens.
 * Tiberias – A large Israeli town in the north and great starting point for Galilee and Golan. To get there by hitchhiking, take a sherut to Tubas (₪7.50) and from there hitchhike east through Tayasir and Aqabah to the highway #578 or #90, and then north past the Israeli checkpoint.