Munich/Altstadt

Altstadt meaning "old city" is the very heart of Munich. Three gates are all that remain of the medieval defensive walls, but within is a well-preserved district with many of Munich's iconic sights: twin-towered Frauenkirche, New City Hall with clockwork figures dancing to the chimes of its Glockenspiel, and Hofbräuhaus that temple to drinking and gorging.

Altstadtring circular road now follows the line of the former walls and bounds the old centre. However it's usual also to include Lehel district a short walk further east: this is bounded by the river Isar east, Tivolistraße and Prinzregentenstraße north, and Altstadtring and Zweibrückenstraße west and south. For convenience Prater, one of the river islands, is described here, while Museum Island is described as part of Ludwigsvorstadt.

Understand
The medieval heart of the city is all of 50-60 years old - it was heavily bombed in the Second World War and reconstruction took decades. But this was done with skill and care to original designs, so Altstadt has re-captured its charm and grandeur and doesn't feel ersatz.

German cities take their "founding date" as the first documentary mention, 1158 AD for Munich, though all of them have been settled since prehistory. The city name refers to monks and it all turned upon a trade negotiation. The monks controlled a bridge over the Isar, probably at Oberföhring by what is now the English Garden, and stitched up the trade in salt. Medieval life utterly depended upon salt, carted in from the mines at Salzburg, and Duke Henry the Lion wanted in on it. His negotiating ploy was to destroy the monks' bridge and build his own, and everyone saw the logic of his argument.

The early city was ravaged by fire and plague but grew to about 1 km in diameter, and stout defensive walls were built with four gates. These constrained and defined the city until the end of the Thirty Years War in 1648. By then, gunpowder and artillery rendered medieval walls useless, so they were demolished though three of the gates survive. This circle enfolded the district now regarded as Altstadt, while the city spread beyond. Altstadtring is the modern road along the route of the walls, which turned out to have magical powers against automobiles: you bring a car any closer in at your peril. Many streets are pedestrianised and the others have severe restrictions, camera enforced.

As Munich, Bavaria and the proto-Germany prospered in the 18th / 19th century, the inner city became prize real-estate. The very centre around Marienplatz and Frauenkirche retained its old-world charm and higgledy-piggledy street pattern, while royal, government and plutocrats' buildings were erected along stately boulevards near the former walls. They were built to vie with Paris and Vienna, to impress the visitor, and they still do.

The tourist office is in New Town Hall on Marienplatz, open daily - see Munich.

Get in
the main railway station is just west of this district, within walking distance. See Munich for inter-city connections, which span Europe.

S-Bahn suburban trains run west-east across the city centre, with stations at Hauptbahnhof, Karlsplatz (Stachus) west edge of Altstadt, Marienplatz plumb centre, and Isartor at its east edge. Lines S1 and S8 run from the airport; the others are S2, S3, S4, S6, S7 and S27.

All these trains use a single tunnel, the Stammstrecke, so line congestion is a chronic problem. A new S-Bahn route is being built beneath Altstadt and might open in 2026. Marienhof just north of Marienplatz will be a new station, while the others will be extended. Expect some construction upheaval while this is under way.

U-Bahn underground trains link those stations. All are within the inner city fare zone, which extends 3-5 km out.
 * lines run out to the northwest, southeast and east Munich districts.
 * and : take U3 or U6 for the north and southwest districts.
 * , Odeonsplatz and : take U4 and U5 for west and southeast districts.

Get around
Walking is usually the best option. Most public transport circles the centre rather than threading through it.

Tram 19 traverses the district west-east, with stops at Hauptbahnhof, Karlsplatz (Stachus), Lenbachplatz, Theatinerstraße, Nationaltheater, Kammerspiele and Maxmonument.

Buses 52 and 62 cross the south part of Altstadt from Sendlinger Tor, with stops at St Jakobs Platz, Rindermarkt, Viktualienmarkt, Blumenstraße, Gärtnerplatz and Baaderstraße.

Don't even think of using a car to get around. Even a taxi with pick up / drop off permission has to drive out radially, orbit Altstadtring to the correct access route, then burrow back in. A journey of 500 m stretches to 3 km - it's not a scam, it's the shortest legal driving route.

Marienplatz

 * Marienplatz (on S- and U-Bahn) is the square at the heart of the old city. It takes its name from Mariensäule, the central golden statue to the Virgin Mary, who was credited with saving the city in 1638 from destruction during Swedish occupation: De Optimo Maximo Virgini Deiparae, Boicae Dominae . . . , yadda yadda yah. The south part of the square is flanked by the imposing old and new Town Halls. North part is a heroic crater, as it's being excavated for the new S-Bahn tunnel and station. You can still access all shops, pubs etcetera here but it's expected to remain a mess at least until 2026.
 * is the pedestrianised street and outdoor market running south from Marienplatz opposite Old Town Hall.
 * Heiliggeistkirche faces Peterskirche across Viktualienmarkt. It's a Gothic church of 1392, open daily 09:00-20:00.
 * is the pedestrianised street and outdoor market running south from Marienplatz opposite Old Town Hall.
 * Heiliggeistkirche faces Peterskirche across Viktualienmarkt. It's a Gothic church of 1392, open daily 09:00-20:00.
 * is the pedestrianised street and outdoor market running south from Marienplatz opposite Old Town Hall.
 * Heiliggeistkirche faces Peterskirche across Viktualienmarkt. It's a Gothic church of 1392, open daily 09:00-20:00.

Odeonsplatz
This area north of medieval Altstadt was developed in the 19th century. The square was named for Odeon concert hall, now a government building. U-Bahn Odeonsplatz is at its north end.
 * Feldherrnhalle (mind the spelling, not "Feldherren-") closes the south end of the square. It was built 1841-44 under Ludwig I to the glory of the Bavarian army. It's modelled on the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence. On the morning of 9 Nov 1923, this was the scene of Hitler's first power-grab, the short-lived putsch which ended in a bloody shoot-out and his arrest. In 1933 it became a Nazi shrine, and all passers-by were required to give the Nazi salute. "Drückebergergasse" was the nickname given to the alley behind, used by those who didn't care to salute: "Drücke" means "ducking out".
 * Preysing Palais on Drückebergergasse just behind Feldherrnhalle was built in the 1720s as a bling palace. It's now shops and offices.
 * is a stately Italianate garden laid out from 1613 as part of the Residenz development. The main entrance is west opposite the U-Bahn station. Most of its embellishments were lost to wartime bombing but the central statue of Diana is original. The garden is free to enter 24 hours and has a pleasant cafe. A pedestrian tunnel links north to the English Garden.
 * Finanzgarten is the bosky, informal green space just north of Hofgarten, a complete contrast. The area was part of Altstadt's defensive walls until those were no longer needed after the Thirty Years' War. Later uses included a market garden for a monastery that contrived to go bust (they're probably still reciting penitential Ave Marias to this day) and a Ministry of Finance, hence the name. In 1984 the Ministry of Agriculture was finally persuaded to park its cars elsewhere and the garden was landscaped into its present form. It's adorned with statues of notable German poets such as, um, Confucius.
 * Finanzgarten is the bosky, informal green space just north of Hofgarten, a complete contrast. The area was part of Altstadt's defensive walls until those were no longer needed after the Thirty Years' War. Later uses included a market garden for a monastery that contrived to go bust (they're probably still reciting penitential Ave Marias to this day) and a Ministry of Finance, hence the name. In 1984 the Ministry of Agriculture was finally persuaded to park its cars elsewhere and the garden was landscaped into its present form. It's adorned with statues of notable German poets such as, um, Confucius.

Lehel
"Lehel" means scrubs or boondocks, floodprone land by the river with shacks and small fields. Lying just east of the centre, it became part of Munich in the 18th century, and blossomed in the 19th with the construction of Prinzregentenstraße. It's now a high-price district not part of the historic Altstadt, but convenient to describe on this page as it's just a short walk east.
 * St Anna is the name of two churches next to Lehel U-Bahn station. The first, west side of the street, is the monastery church built in the 1730s. It also served as the parish church for this poor district, whose residents were locked out of Altstadt gates by night. The Franciscans took over the monastery in 1827 and remain there. The new parish church east side of the street was completed in 1892.
 * The English Garden is the huge park starting just beyond Lehel and described as part of northern Munich. However its southern section is within walking distance, or use U-Bahn U3 or U6 to Universität.  is the focal point of this section, a prominent neo-classical rotunda. 200 m further north is the Chinese Tower, with a beer garden, and site of a Christmas Market. The section is bounded by a busy highway, Isarring. The northern section is more easily accessed from U-bahn U6 Nordfriedhof.
 * Archaeology Museum behind the Nationalmuseum has been closed for rebuilding since 2016. It might reopen in 2024.
 * St Lukas is on Mariannenplatz near the footbridge to Prater Island. It's a Lutheran church built in the 1890s in neo-Gothic / Romanesque.
 * is one of two large river islands in the Isar. Originally these were small, shifting sandbanks, then in the 19th century they were consolidated and developed. A tavern opened, with a funfair inspired by Prater in Vienna, and so the island (a fusion of three) got its name. But Orson Welles never got to ride its carousel, and the funfair went bust through disruption of building Maximilianstraße, which now bisects it and connects to the eastern district of Haidhausen. One fellow wont to experiment with fireworks was ordered to live away at the south tip, thus dubbed Feuerwerkinsel. This tip is linked by footbridge to Mariannenplatz in Lehel, to Haidhausen, and upriver to Museum Island, described as part of Ludwigsvordstadt
 * (S-Bahn: Isartor) was built in 1337 as one of the city gates. It was rebuilt in the 19th to the original plan. It marks the natural boundary of Altstadt-Lehel: for sights south and east such as the Deutsches Museum, see Ludwigsvorstadt.
 * St Lukas is on Mariannenplatz near the footbridge to Prater Island. It's a Lutheran church built in the 1890s in neo-Gothic / Romanesque.
 * is one of two large river islands in the Isar. Originally these were small, shifting sandbanks, then in the 19th century they were consolidated and developed. A tavern opened, with a funfair inspired by Prater in Vienna, and so the island (a fusion of three) got its name. But Orson Welles never got to ride its carousel, and the funfair went bust through disruption of building Maximilianstraße, which now bisects it and connects to the eastern district of Haidhausen. One fellow wont to experiment with fireworks was ordered to live away at the south tip, thus dubbed Feuerwerkinsel. This tip is linked by footbridge to Mariannenplatz in Lehel, to Haidhausen, and upriver to Museum Island, described as part of Ludwigsvordstadt
 * (S-Bahn: Isartor) was built in 1337 as one of the city gates. It was rebuilt in the 19th to the original plan. It marks the natural boundary of Altstadt-Lehel: for sights south and east such as the Deutsches Museum, see Ludwigsvorstadt.
 * is one of two large river islands in the Isar. Originally these were small, shifting sandbanks, then in the 19th century they were consolidated and developed. A tavern opened, with a funfair inspired by Prater in Vienna, and so the island (a fusion of three) got its name. But Orson Welles never got to ride its carousel, and the funfair went bust through disruption of building Maximilianstraße, which now bisects it and connects to the eastern district of Haidhausen. One fellow wont to experiment with fireworks was ordered to live away at the south tip, thus dubbed Feuerwerkinsel. This tip is linked by footbridge to Mariannenplatz in Lehel, to Haidhausen, and upriver to Museum Island, described as part of Ludwigsvordstadt
 * (S-Bahn: Isartor) was built in 1337 as one of the city gates. It was rebuilt in the 19th to the original plan. It marks the natural boundary of Altstadt-Lehel: for sights south and east such as the Deutsches Museum, see Ludwigsvorstadt.
 * (S-Bahn: Isartor) was built in 1337 as one of the city gates. It was rebuilt in the 19th to the original plan. It marks the natural boundary of Altstadt-Lehel: for sights south and east such as the Deutsches Museum, see Ludwigsvorstadt.
 * (S-Bahn: Isartor) was built in 1337 as one of the city gates. It was rebuilt in the 19th to the original plan. It marks the natural boundary of Altstadt-Lehel: for sights south and east such as the Deutsches Museum, see Ludwigsvorstadt.

Maximiliansplatz

 * is a long plaza laid out at the beginning of the 19th century over the former city walls. Those circled west to Karlsplatz and east to Odeonsplatz, bounding the northwest segment of Altstadt. Within the plaza are the Wittelsbacherbrunnen fountain, the New Stock Exchange (Neue Börse) of 1901 and the House of Artists (Künstlerhaus). It's a lively place at night. U-Bahn Karlsplatz (Stachus) is closest for the west end, Odeonsplatz for the east end, and Tram 19 (stop Lenbachplatz) runs through it.
 * Platz der Opfer des Nationalsozialismus (Square of the Victims of Nazism, U-Bahn U3, U4, U5, U6: Odeonsplatz) is the northeast extension of Maximiliansplatz - the Gestapo headquarters stood here. Today an eternal flame burns in its centre.
 * Dreifaltigkeitskirche (Trinity) is a small baroque church of 1710 at Pacellistraße 6 off Maximiliansplatz. It's seldom open.
 * Salvatorkirche 200 m east of Platz der Opfer was built in 1492 as the cemetery church for Frauenkirche. In 1829 it became Greek Orthodox.
 * is the short boulevard connecting Maximiliansplatz to Odeonsplatz. It's lined with neo-classical bulidings, with the grandest in Wittelsbacherplatz.
 * Cafe Luitpold Museum on Brienner Straße facing Wittelsbacherplatz is an exhibition of the history of coffee shops. It remains closed in 2022, but the pricey Cafe Luitpold itself is open.
 * Deutsches Jagd- und Fischereimuseum (Hunting & Fishing Museum) is just east of Michaelskirche, open daily 09:30-17:00. Signage is only in German. It's within the 13th century Augustinerkirche St. Johann - after bombing damage this was rebuilt as shops and only the facade survives.
 * Bürgersaalkirche is a two-story church of 1710 just west of Michaelskirche.
 * Bürgersaalkirche is a two-story church of 1710 just west of Michaelskirche.

Sendlinger Straße
This street leads southwest to the city gate ("Sendlinger Tor") then on towards Sendling, now a suburb. It's been partly pedestrianised and the "red light district" ejected, but there's disagreement over further extension of the pedestrian zone.
 * Fire Brigade Museum on St Jakobs Platz remains closed, and was never as exciting as Google Map makes out, translating Feuerwehr as "fireworks".
 * Herzogspitalkirche St Elisabeth 100 m east of Karlsplatz was the chapel for the 16th century ducal hospital and a pilgrimage destination. It was destroyed by wartime bombing and only the tower was rebuilt to the original design, the rest is modern.
 * Kreuzkirche midway down Kreuzstraße was built in 1478 as a cemetery church - the kreuz (cross) in this case was a crossroads. It has a plain brick exterior, the interior was re-done in Baroque style in 1620.
 * Sendlinger Tor, one of the ancient city gates, is where you step out of Altstadt into Ludwigsvorstadt. The U-Bahn station is just beyond.
 * Herzogspitalkirche St Elisabeth 100 m east of Karlsplatz was the chapel for the 16th century ducal hospital and a pilgrimage destination. It was destroyed by wartime bombing and only the tower was rebuilt to the original design, the rest is modern.
 * Kreuzkirche midway down Kreuzstraße was built in 1478 as a cemetery church - the kreuz (cross) in this case was a crossroads. It has a plain brick exterior, the interior was re-done in Baroque style in 1620.
 * Sendlinger Tor, one of the ancient city gates, is where you step out of Altstadt into Ludwigsvorstadt. The U-Bahn station is just beyond.
 * Sendlinger Tor, one of the ancient city gates, is where you step out of Altstadt into Ludwigsvorstadt. The U-Bahn station is just beyond.

Do

 * City Foundation Festival (Stadtgründungsfest) is held in mid-June around Marienplatz, with food stalls and other events.
 * Isarinselfest (Isar Island Festival) is a street fair held along the river bank on a September weekend, with music, stalls and activities for children.
 * Christmas Market is held in Marienplatz in the four weeks to Christmas Eve. Another on Wittelsbacherplatz (by Odeonsplatz) is medieval-themed, so you get to experience how earlier centuries gobbled sausage and slurped mulled wine.
 * Surfing: the Eisbach has a surfable standing wave as it flows out below the bridge at Prinzregentenstraße into English Garden. See Schwabing for this and other attractions in the Garden.
 * Isarinselfest (Isar Island Festival) is a street fair held along the river bank on a September weekend, with music, stalls and activities for children.
 * Christmas Market is held in Marienplatz in the four weeks to Christmas Eve. Another on Wittelsbacherplatz (by Odeonsplatz) is medieval-themed, so you get to experience how earlier centuries gobbled sausage and slurped mulled wine.
 * Surfing: the Eisbach has a surfable standing wave as it flows out below the bridge at Prinzregentenstraße into English Garden. See Schwabing for this and other attractions in the Garden.

Buy

 * Kaufingerstraße from Marienplatz, becoming Neuhauser Straße to Karlstor and Stachus, is pedestrianised and one of the city's main shopping streets. Lots of clothing stores plus general retailers such as Kaufhof.
 * Viktualienmarkt is the large open-air market off Marienplatz.
 * CityQuartier Fünf Höfe is a shopping centre in the block at Theatinerstraße 15, 100 m south of Odeonsplatz. It has upscale shops and cafes.
 * Viktualienmarkt is the large open-air market off Marienplatz.
 * CityQuartier Fünf Höfe is a shopping centre in the block at Theatinerstraße 15, 100 m south of Odeonsplatz. It has upscale shops and cafes.
 * CityQuartier Fünf Höfe is a shopping centre in the block at Theatinerstraße 15, 100 m south of Odeonsplatz. It has upscale shops and cafes.
 * CityQuartier Fünf Höfe is a shopping centre in the block at Theatinerstraße 15, 100 m south of Odeonsplatz. It has upscale shops and cafes.

Budget

 * Noah´s, Sebastianplatz 3 (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: Marienplatz: next to Stadtmuseum), +49 89 700 66 724. M-Su 11:00-23:00. Excellent pizza and Italian cuisine, therefore very well frequented.
 * Viktualienmarkt off Marienplatz has a range of stalls and kiosks with ready-made budget food. You can bring your own food into the beer garden.
 * Viktualienmarkt off Marienplatz has a range of stalls and kiosks with ready-made budget food. You can bring your own food into the beer garden.
 * Viktualienmarkt off Marienplatz has a range of stalls and kiosks with ready-made budget food. You can bring your own food into the beer garden.

Mid-range

 * Sesam Falafel at Tal 32 does falafel, shwarma and mezze, for a change from German fare. It's open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
 * Sesam Falafel at Tal 32 does falafel, shwarma and mezze, for a change from German fare. It's open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
 * Sesam Falafel at Tal 32 does falafel, shwarma and mezze, for a change from German fare. It's open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
 * Sesam Falafel at Tal 32 does falafel, shwarma and mezze, for a change from German fare. It's open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
 * Sesam Falafel at Tal 32 does falafel, shwarma and mezze, for a change from German fare. It's open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
 * Sesam Falafel at Tal 32 does falafel, shwarma and mezze, for a change from German fare. It's open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.

Bars and pubs

 * Ned Kelly's is an Australian-themed sports pub next to Kilian's on Frauenplatz.
 * Ned Kelly's is an Australian-themed sports pub next to Kilian's on Frauenplatz.
 * Ned Kelly's is an Australian-themed sports pub next to Kilian's on Frauenplatz.
 * Ned Kelly's is an Australian-themed sports pub next to Kilian's on Frauenplatz.

Sleep
Altstadt has limited accommodation. Try looking in Ludwigsvorstadt near the railway station, which is surrounded by hotels.

Connect
As of Oct 2022, the entire city has 5G from all three German carriers. Wifi (in German WLAN) is widely available in public places and on transport.

Go next

 * Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt is reached by stepping through Sendlinger Tor. Oktoberfest is held in this district, and the star attraction is the Deutsches Museum of science and technology.
 * Haidhausen just east of Aldstadt is the bar and party district.
 * Maxvorstadt just north is the university district and has big-name galleries and museums.
 * Northern Munich beyond Maxvorstadt has the English Garden in Schwabing, and the Nymphenburg palace and park.