Mostar



Mostar  is a city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Much of the city has been rebuilt and visitors might be surprised to see that this formerly war-torn city is a lively and beautiful destination once again, particularly the area within and around the old town. However, many visible signs of Mostar's troubled history in the 1990s remain.

Understand
It used to be one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country, and today it suffers geographical division of ethnic groups. The city was the most heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the breakup of Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, air strikes destroyed many important buildings and structures, including the cultural and spiritual icon: the Old Bridge (Stari Most), which is a.

Mostar has been most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the Neretva river in what is considered the historic centre of the city. Through combined efforts with the international community, rebuilding of the Old Bridge was completed in 2004, almost 11 years after its destruction, using some of its original stones recovered from the Neretva river.

From Sarajevo
There are many buses (first at 06:00, last at 19:55 - approx. 1 per hour) from Sarajevo to Mostar. There are also many buses from Mostar to Sarajevo (first at 06:00, last at 18:15 - approx. 1 per hour). Journey takes 2½ hours and costs 17-20 KM (depends on bus company). Timetable is available here, but not all buses are listed.

Other destinations
Bus timetables are online, but not all connections are listed. Frequent buses run between Mostar and Ploče, Dubrovnik (2 per day, 3-4 hours, 30 KM), Split (4 hours, 16 EUR), Zagreb, Podgorica, Jajce (3½-4 hours, 19 KM), Banja Luka, Belgrade (2 per day) and most cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The stop in Mostar for the bus from Podgorica, which continues to Banja Luka, is several kilometres from the city centre on an expressway. A taxi from there costs 10 KM.

From Sarajevo
There are two trains daily from Sarajevo to Čapljina via Mostar, leaving Sarajevo in the morning and in the afternoon. In the other direction, there's an early morning train from Čapljina around 06:00 and around 16:00. Schedules can be found the website of ZFBH. The scenery on the train between Sarajevo and Mostar is stunning, passing through rugged terrain with a series of tunnels, U-turns and viaducts. It is much more picturesque, as well as cheaper, to travel between these cities by train rather than by bus.

One way ticket costs 11 KM (October 2017) and has to be purchased at least 5 minutes before the scheduled departures.

From Croatia
There is no longer connection between Ploče and Mostar. There is also no direct connection between Zagreb and Mostar, so you need to change in Sarajevo.

There was a regular bus connection from Dubrovnik for around 15 EUR (October 2017).

By car
Mostar is easily reachable from Western Europe via Croatia. From, Zagreb take the A1 (green signs for Karlovac, Split and Dubrovnik). There is a border crossing Nova Sela - Bijača, and the motorway continues in Herzegovina until the end at Međugorje. Then just follow the signs to Mostar on the remaining 30 or so kilometres of two-lane road. There are plans build a motorway all the way to Mostar, but this might take several more years.

From Sarajevo it's a two-hour scenic drive through the Neretva river valley. This route is also planned to be upgraded to a motorway.

By bicycle
The Ćiro Trail is a 157-km cycling route from Dubrovnik. It's a rail trail following the tracks of a decommissioned Austro-Hungarian narrow gauge railway, and crosses several 19th-century tunnels and bridges.

See








Do

 * Drink Bosnian coffee. Don't let anyone tell you that Bosnian coffee is the same as Turkish coffee. Instead, let the good people of Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange not far from the bridge) educate you about this distinct way of preparing coffee. They are the only roasters in town and they are passionate about preserving this tradition. The café will serve your coffee in a traditional coffee set, plus a Turkish delight to sweeten your drink, all for 2 KM. Before you drink your coffee, the staff will explain to you how it is prepared and how best to enjoy it.
 * Park Fortica With multiple ziplines and a via ferrata. Also offers adventurous activities in the surrounding area.
 * Drink Bosnian coffee. Don't let anyone tell you that Bosnian coffee is the same as Turkish coffee. Instead, let the good people of Cafe de Alma (Rade Bitange not far from the bridge) educate you about this distinct way of preparing coffee. They are the only roasters in town and they are passionate about preserving this tradition. The café will serve your coffee in a traditional coffee set, plus a Turkish delight to sweeten your drink, all for 2 KM. Before you drink your coffee, the staff will explain to you how it is prepared and how best to enjoy it.
 * Park Fortica With multiple ziplines and a via ferrata. Also offers adventurous activities in the surrounding area.
 * Park Fortica With multiple ziplines and a via ferrata. Also offers adventurous activities in the surrounding area.

Buy
The Bosnia and Herzegovina convertible mark (KM or BAM) is pegged to the euro at a rate of €1 = 1.95583 KM. Shops and restaurants will accept euros at a 1:2 rate with the Bosnian convertible mark. Numerous banks have their affiliates and ATMs across the city. Most restaurants in the Old Town will accept cards and there is an ATM next to tourist company across Restaurant Kulluk and Europa.

Head over to Old Bazaar Kujundžiluk for handicrafts, carpets and jewelry.

Drink
Plenty of bars and cafés in the Old Town.



Connect
From 2016, fast and free Wi-Fi provided by TGM is available in the vicinity of the Stari Most (Old Bridge).

Stay safe
As of 2022, the Mostar Bridge and all with tourists tightly packed places still attract the odd pickpocketers to rip off the unsuspected old lady, but probably not anyone reading this travel guide.

Day trips
Many of these areas are hard to reach with public transport; however, transfers with bigger taxi companies are cheap (somewhat controlled) and several agencies offer guided tours.


 * - a well-preserved walled town (municipality of Čapljina) dating back to 1383 that is 35 km south of Mostar. It is reachable by public transport by taking yellow bus #41 towards Čapljina for around 30 minutes. Excellent view of the Neretva River. During the Middle Ages, Počitelj was the administrative centre and centre of governance of county Dubrava župa. The town has a few small restaurants, coffee shops and street vendors selling local grown fruits and souvenirs most of the year.
 * - a village 12 km southeast of Mostar. It is reachable by public bus 10/11/12 in 20-25 minutes (2.1 KM, stops in Španski trg in front of the Gimnazija). The bus may leave from the road opposite the main station, not the bus station itself, but can be caught at several stops in the city. At Blagaj, a karst river flows out of a mountain. It's very beautiful, with deep blue water. A historic tekke is built into the cliff (entrance 10 KM). Women must wear headscarves to enter the tekke. Trout are farmed in the river, and several excellent restaurants serve trout with seating on the riverbank. There is an impressive ancient fort with amazing views on top of the mountain. The area around the fort is dotted with countless pomegranate trees—so being there in fall, you will have a delicious time. To reach the fort, follow the road past the village's old town and then ask where the trail starts, or just follow the road (keep right) to where the road swerves left (you'll see several ancient gravestones) and you'll find the path on your right. The trail is about 2 km. You can pitch your tent in the fort or in one of the numerous campsites in Blagaj directly adjacent to the Buna river. Velagićevina (the Velagić family House) was built in 17th century and is a beautiful example of the Ottoman residential architecture, a one-storey structure with typically extended porches. In the vicinity there are also old flour mills that were powered by the strong Buna River.
 * , 25 km from Mostar, is exceptionally popular among catholic pilgrims due to an alleged apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to youths in the town. Buses depart from the bus station every few hours.
 * - an old Ottoman town with the medieval cemetery of Radimlja (Nekropola Radimlja), the Illyrian site of Daorson and the palaeolithic cave painting at the Badanj Cave (Pećina Badanj).
 * Waterfall gorge, 25 km north of Mostar, is popular for outdoor sports such as biking, hiking, canyoning and climbing. The Drežanka River is a tributary of the Neretva, and the two rivers join in an artificial hydropower lake. Take a bus in the direction of Drežnica; there are buses which go to the end of the gorge, Gornja Drežnica. Or take the train in the direction of Sarajevo and get off at train stop Drežnica, approx. 30 min. There are several camp sites and basic accommodation, although you will need your own sporting equipment.

Further destinations

 * Ploče, Croatia - is the nearest seaside town to Mostar, and is easily accessible with numerous daily buses and weekend trains in summer. Beaches are nicest for swimming north of the city, especially further on Baćina lakes and on east at delta of Neretva river.
 * Čapljina - is closest town between Mostar and Metkovića first town across border to Croatia, known for old town Počitelj and Mogorjelo with Roman archeological site (villa rustica).
 * Međugorje - as international pilgrimage for Roman-catholics from all over the world
 * Jablanica - town between Mostar and Konjic, home to Dugopolje necropolis and bridge monument from WW2.
 * Sarajevo - as main and biggest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina