Monteverde and Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserves

Monteverde and Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserves are in the Central Pacific region of Costa Rica.

Get in
The cheapest way to get to Monteverde is by bus, but you may also choose to use the "Jeep-boat-jeep" option (which in reality is more of a "bus-boat-bus" trip) if you are coming from La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano area.

Travellers going to Monteverde by public bus have limited options. From the west (Tamarindo, Liberia, Nicoya), you take any bus going to San Jose, and ask to get off at La Irma for Monteverde. You will be dropped off at a gas station at a crossroads. Cross the street to the road going up the hill and there will be a small bus stop for buses going up to Las Juntas and Monteverde. Only 2 public buses per day go to Monteverde from La Irma, at 10:00 and 15:00. The afternoon buses can often be up to 30 minutes late. Taxis are available from here and cost US$60 for up to 4 people; speaking a bit of Spanish helps as the drivers will tell you about the region and stop at viewpoints.

You may also choose to get a rental car. The roads within Santa Elena are now paved, but only as far as the gas station. The road to the reserve is not paved. Renting a car is thus not such a bad idea. In the dry season there is no need for a 4WD. While the road up to Montverde is unsealed it is graded, with much non 4WD traffic daily. In the wet season a 4WD would be the safer route, or at the very least a vehicle with ample ground clearance and where the spare tyre is in good condition - you may have to use it.

There are also private transportation companies that offer private transfers in a private vehicle. There are also shuttle services that charge around US$29 per person from anywhere in the country. These are not private, however, and sometimes use window vans that are packed like sardines. Instead of paying your hostel to book the shuttle you can book yourself for some companies like RocaVerde.

Beware of pickpockets on the public bus. Don't put your backpack in the overhead rack.

Get around
There are several taxi companies, and local bus services are going up and down the hill every 2 hours every day. Many of the activities in the area are in walking distance. The ones further away have free transportation included in their price.

See
The most scenic parts of Monteverde are at the Trocha in San Luis, at the Ventana in the Monteverde Reserve or at the Mirador in the Santa Elena Reserve. Mist and clouds often obscure these views.

Do
Monteverde's appeal centers on its scenery and nature. Many ecosystems exist in the numerous reserves, such as Bajo del Tigre, the Santa Elena Reserve, the Bosque Eterno de los Niños and the world-famous Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.

Organized activities in Monteverde are not cheap. Simple guided tours can cost US$35-40, and more intense activities such as ziplining cost $45 and up. Commissions are a driving force in Monteverde and your hotel receptionist will not always sell the best tour, but the one that gives the largest commission. For example when you book a night tour and pay US$25 for the 2-hour hike, the hotel will be paid $10 for making the booking. You paid the hotel $10 per person for calling and making a booking for you. The ziplines offer a minimum $25 commission to book them. You will be pressured to book those things that offer the largest commissions at many places, especially if the room is cheap! So make sure to book directly through the attraction.

A major industry is the zipline business, and there are several choices, including the Original Canopy Tour, Sky Trek and Selvatura Park. These "canopy tours" offer a good albeit fast look at the canopy from dizzying heights. Often there are hanging bridges and cloud forest hikes at these locations as well and they provide better views of wildlife but less adrenalin.

Other attractions include:
 * the Bat Jungle, with live bats, museum & an Argentinean restaurant
 * the Frog Pond
 * the Victorian-style Butterfly Garden at Selvatura Park
 * the astounding Insect Museum in the same complex
 * the San Luis waterfall
 * the very interesting Bajo del Tigre night walk
 * horseback riding. All-day cowboy ride and San Luis Waterfall ride.
 * horseback riding. All-day cowboy ride and San Luis Waterfall ride.
 * horseback riding. All-day cowboy ride and San Luis Waterfall ride.

Buy
All throughout the main drag of Santa Elena, T-shirts, shot glasses and other standard tourist fares are sold. Coffee products are sold throughout town as well, though the Coffee Roaster in Monteverde is particularly noteworthy. A women's art commune, CASEM, is a good place to look for wooden wares and a variety of rainforest themed stuffed animals, but is not cheap. Cerro Plano also boasts a South American clothing store, which is relatively cheap but certainly not Costa Rican. Overall, Monteverde souvenirs are tourist-geared kitsch, however.

Books
If you're looking for something to read there aren't too many options. Librería Chunches, the local "book store" wasn't open when I was around and based on the photos it seems like they only have tourist books. However, the Monteverde Coffee Center has a book exchange (give a book take a book). Also, The Pension Santa Elena Hotel has a small collection of used books in the lobby that you may be able to read or exchange for.

Eat
Food options at the Santa Elena Reserve are limited. There is a small cafe that mostly serves dead animals. If you came to the reserve because you wanted to see live animals, you may want to bring your own snacks.

Go to downtown Santa Elena to get the best food. There is a variety of cuisines to choose from Sushi to tapas to Tipico and burger joints. Sophias Restaurant has really exotic food. Tramonti is great for Italian food. Fried chicken next to the bank in Santa Elena. Great chocolates at Café Caburé. Orchid Cafe do great panini and smoothies.

Drink
Despite being packed with tourists, Santa Elena is not a party destination, and much of the town shuts down after 21:00. However, the bars do stay open for any people who do want to have a night out.

The Guarida del Sapo is a more upscale and much more expensive locale, with beers going at a criminal ₡1200. However, the service is amazing and the music is never as loud as Bar Amigos.

The Unicornio is a locals only spot for the most part, with beers at ₡700 and (hilariously bad) karaoke most every night. Proceed to Unicornio with prudence and trepidation; you're likely to stick out here as a tourist of any kind.

The Bromelias souvenir shop sometimes converts into a bar with great live music, but this is rare. Beers here are also ₡700, but Bromelias is by and large the best place to drink when it's functional.

Go next
Go to the beach or to the nearest destination - Arenal Volcano & Fortuna.

Jeep-boat-jeep options from Monteverde to La Fortuna are US$20-25 and take about 3-4 hours and can be booked from any hotel. The public bus is far cheaper, but can take 7-8 hours, and requires changes via Tilaran.

It is possible to go directly from Monteverde all the way to Panama or Nicaragua (Pena Blanca crossing) in one day, you should take the morning bus leaving Monteverde.