Mombasa

Mombasa with a population of 1.2 million (2019), is the second-largest city in Kenya and its main port city. It is particularly known for its warm and sunny climate, white beaches and coral reef diving.

Understand
Mombasa is Kenya's main tourist destination. It is on the eastern coastline of Kenya, bordering the Indian Ocean which has made it a popular destination for its beaches. Mombasa offers a diverse marine life, world-class hotels and friendly atmosphere. There is a tropical climate all year and it is a great destination filled with activities for all ages.

Mombasa is one of the oldest cities in sub-Saharan Africa, and its precise date of founding remains unknown. The first accounts of Mombasa date back to the 12th century, when the Arab geographer Al Idrisi mentioned it as a prosperous trading post in his writings. Pre-colonial Mombasa was a prosperous city state in a region of East Africa known as the Swahili Coast, which also included other city states such as Zanzibar and Kilwa Kisiwani, and a main centre for trade between Africa and the Arab World, with trade routes even going as far as India and China. At different points in history, Mombasa would be ruled by the Portuguese, Arabs and British. The city's culture today still exhibits that of its pasts. Historical ruins like Fort Jesus and the Old Town are attractions that display the history in Mombasa.

The central part of the city, Mvita, is an island in a river delta, accessed by bridges and from the south by ferries operating around the clock. It is a very cosmopolitan city, and you can see a group of Muslims wearing niqab (here known as "bui bui") and Giryama people wearing almost nothing at the same time and place.

Together with Nairobi, it is the only place in the country that has a status as both city and county.

Orientation
The city of Mombasa is divided into four administrative divisions. These are clearly geographically defined and are therefore useful for orientation.

As in many other metropolises, it is difficult to distinguish the newer areas from the original city (Mvita). By 2009, 90% of the urban area was built up. And as in all major Sub-Saharan African cities, there are several shantytowns in the suburbs. The largest is Kisauni-Kongowea in Kisauni, and others include Chaani-Magongo and Miritini in Changamwe as well as Mtongwe in Likoni.

Most hotels and activities are concentrated on the island of Mvita and along the northern coast in the Kisauni division.

Climate


The climate is tropical with a major rain season between mid-April and late May and a minor wet season in October and November. Being in the Southern Hemisphere, the summer, with temperatures above 32°C, occurs in January and March. At just 4° south of the Equator, the variation in temperature is relatively small.

History
The first urban area was founded near what today is known as Old Town around 900 AD by a man named Sheheh Mvita. Its strategic position along the maritime route to India caused the city to be coveted by many powers, and it was a notable port for the ivory and spice trades.

Several travellers and explorers passed through the region starting no later than the 1st century, but the first written record of the city was by the Moroccan Ibn Battuta in 1330. It said Mombasa was "a very rural island without territorial dependency on the continent with mosques and forests and the inhabitants nourishing themselves on bananas and fish". On 7 April 1498, the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama arrived and stayed for six days, and this was the end of peace in this small town. Under orders of Francisco de Almeida, the Portuguese returned to pillage the village in 1505 and 1528 before capturing it in 1529. They constructed Fort Jesus in 1593, together with five smaller forts, and made Mombasa a Portuguese stronghold on the route to India. The years between 1600 and 1832 were marked by successive battles between the Portuguese and the Sultanate of Oman, who conquered it.

In 1856 the sultanate of Muscat and Oman split into two and Mombasa fell into the sphere of the sultanate of Zanzibar, of which it was part until it was conquered by Britain in 1895. Mombasa served as capital of the East Africa Protectorate from 1898-1905. During this time the city's new port and the railway to Uganda were constructed. The East Africa Protectorate was dissolved in 1920 and the area was thereafter known as the Colony and Protectorate of Kenya. Mombasa remained the capital of Kenya until the country attained independence in 1963, and has served as a provincial capital ever since.

Get in


Mombasa is an important node for all forms of transportation. It is the end of the Trans-African Route 8 from Lagos and of the railway to Uganda. It has an international airport, Moi Airport, and one of Eastern Africa's most important ports, Kilindini, which is also the main port for goods to Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda.

By plane
The flight between Nairobi and Mombasa takes some 45 minutes, enough time for a cold drink and a view of the Tsavo East National Park. The flag carrier Kenya Airways, as well as the low-cost airlines Jambojet, and Fly540 (Five Forty Aviation) fly this route. There are direct flights from European cities such as Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt, Milan, Rome, Verona and also from Addis Ababa, Dar es Salaam, Doha, Dubai, Entebbe, Kigali, Istanbul, Moroni, and Zanzibar.
 * Money exchange: At the exit from the airport to the right is an ATM, where you can withdraw Kenya Shilling with your card (ensure the card works in Kenya at your bank). This is much cheaper than cash exchange. A bank for exchange is also available at the airport.
 * Money exchange: At the exit from the airport to the right is an ATM, where you can withdraw Kenya Shilling with your card (ensure the card works in Kenya at your bank). This is much cheaper than cash exchange. A bank for exchange is also available at the airport.



By boat


There are three ways to get to Mombasa by boat: by private boat, cruise ship or ferry.

By private boat
On Mombasa Island there are two sailing clubs open to non-members and two hotels with marinas open to non-guests.

By cruise ship
Some companies offer cruises that call at Mombasa:

By ferry
If you are arriving overland from the south, you need to cross the river by taking the Likoni Ferry.

By train


In June 2017, a new, 530-km-long railway line from Nairobi reduced the journey to about five hours. State-of-the-art rapid-trains are in use. A ticket for economy class is about Ksh 1000 while a 1st class ticket is about Ksh 3000. The difference between economy and 1st class is that seats are more spacious in first class. Kenya Railways operates several trains per day on the route.

A commuter rail system linking Mombasa Terminus with the old railway terminal in central Mombasa is under construction and expected to open in 2024.



By bus
Buses, while not a major mode of transportation within the city, are mostly used for travelling outside the city. The major player in transportation in Mombasa City is Matatu, which are mostly 14-seater minibuses, and are quite popular amongst the residents.


 * The one-way non air condition bus fare to Nairobi is from Ksh 1000 and the trip takes at least 12 hours by day or 10 hours by night. (Best to take a five hour air condition express train).
 * bus Companies operating this route include Mash Poa, Coastbus, Dreamliner, Spanish Coach, and Modern Coast Express.
 * Dreamliner Mombasa Road. Nairobi and Malindi.
 * Spanish Coach Mombasa Road. Nairobi.
 * Buscar Mombasa Road. Nairobi and Malindi.
 * Dreamliner Mombasa Road. Nairobi and Malindi.
 * Spanish Coach Mombasa Road. Nairobi.
 * Buscar Mombasa Road. Nairobi and Malindi.
 * Spanish Coach Mombasa Road. Nairobi.
 * Buscar Mombasa Road. Nairobi and Malindi.

By car
Kenya drives on the left and it will likely take some time to adapt to the local traffic culture. Drive in daytime only and keep the car doors locked, especially in urban areas. In Kenya foreign drivers must have an international driver's licence. These can be obtained through automobile clubs, travel agencies, or from the Road Transport Office located in the Income Tax House in Nairobi.



Most international rental agencies are present at least at Nairobi airport. From Nairobi, the distance to Mombasa is 525 km and the drive takes 6-12 hours, depending on the presence of police controls along the road, congestion on the section between Mariakani and Mombasa and the breaks you take. Voi is a good place to stop for lunch (this is also where buses stop).

From central Nairobi, take route 104 (Huhuru Highway) to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and Athi River. From there route 109 to Mombasa.

Get around
The traffic will likely appear chaotic to a westerner. Traffic laws are not respected, even when police are present.

By minibus
There is no regular public transportation network in the city. The closest equivalent are the aforementioned matatus (minivans) of which there are about 3500 (licensed ones have stickers on the windshields) in the city. They're cheap — ask someone at the hotel what the going rate is and don't let them scam you. Don't expect to be comfortable; as the drivers want to take as many passengers as possible, you will often be crammed in like a sardine. A matatu ride starts from Ksh 20 just to go 500m (2018)but count on paying double if you want a vehicle which conforms to the traffic legislation. Certain lines connect Mombasa and Malandi, the ride taking about two hours at a price of Ksh 350. Alternatively, book a shuttle bus to collect you from your accommodation and drop you directly at your accommodation in Mombasa - this is more expensive costing around Ksh 1000, but is much quicker and far less hassle. The shuttles can be booked online and are run by Hakuna Mutatu Bus .

By tuk-tuk and motorcycle
For the more adventurous there are tuk-tuks (motorized trikes with a cabin for the passengers) and boda-bodas (bicycle taxis). The latter is a rather dangerous and scary mode of getting around. The price for a tuk-tuk ride is Ksh 50-100 and boda-boda around Ksh 50. You can get a Tuk-tuk to the new railway station for Ksh250 per person. or 300m from the airport for ksh200 per person.

By taxi
Official and unofficial taxis are also available. Taxis don't have taxi signs on the roof, but license papers stuck to the windshields. The ride is in general paid beforehand after some negotiation and you can expect the driver to stop at a service station to fill up just the necessary amount to get you to your destination. A ride from the airport to central Mombasa costs Ksh 1000-3000 (2018). A much cheaper alternative to regular taxis are the shuttle services Uber, Taxify, Little, Mondo Ride, MaraMoja. You can get fares online and thereby avoid getting overcharged, as many taxi drivers like to do to tourists. A cheaper alternative is a shared taxi: Hakuna Mutatu Bus operates on the Kenya Coast and a ride from Mombasa costs roughly Ksh 1000 and takes 1hr 30min. The shared taxi is a door-to-door service, meaning you will be collected from your current accommodation in Mombasa, Kilifi or Watamu and dropped directly at your next accommodation in Diani.

By car
It is also possible to rent a car with or without a driver. If you need to get around a lot but are scared of driving, you can usually negotiate fares for longer periods (e.g. one day) with taxi drivers. Do this only after a "test ride", as taxi drivers are not always knowledgeable of the city.



See


Considering Mombasa's action-filled history, surprisingly there are only a handful of sights. The nature and a slew of different activities is what makes Mombasa interesting for visitors. In addition to these, there are a couple of sights within 20-30 km north, west and south of Mombasa. These are listed under.













Mombasa was a military base during both world wars, and there are two military cemeteries:

Beaches and water
Even as the 13½ km of white sand beaches along the coast would tempt you to do nothing but bathing in the sun and the sea, Mombasa also offers other kinds of activities. All beaches in Kisauni offer camel rides and on Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach in Bamburi you can rent bikes too. There are also guided walks on the beaches.

There are 3 main beaches north of Mombasa. First is Nyali Beach which is frequented mostly by locals as the water quality is not very good due to the closeness to the town that has no functioning waste water treatment plants. The next is Bamburi Beach. It's a very nice beach with many hotels, resorts, pubs, apartments, shops and beach boys and beach girls looking for tourist company or to sell all kinds of souvenirs. The beach is frequented a lot by locals and tourists. Its the most lively beach of Mombasa with good night live too. Shanzu Beach is the most scenic beach of Mombasa and less frequented than Bamburi Beach. Day and night life is there but less than at Bamburi beach. Further to the North are the beaches of Mtwapa.



Fishing
You can catch big fishes in Mombasa, including barracuda, yellow tuna and all three species of marlin.

Parks and greenery
Mombasa Island (Mvita) doesn't have many parks. The two best known are Uhuru Garden at Moi Avenue near the tusks and Mama Ngina Park.

Events
There are many kinds of events during the year:

Safaris and excursions
Most people who visit the coast of Kenya want to combine their stay with a safari. If you have not already booked the safari at home in the travel agency, you can also book it with local agents. There are a very large number of travel agencies that offer safaris both near the beach hotels and in the center of Mombasa. Tours are offered in every hotel and representatives try to find customers even on the beach. In addition to reputable companies, there are also private individuals who organize safaris - often illegally, in order to avoid taxes. For your own safety, you should give preference to reputable companies, even if they are a little more expensive.

For the nearby attractions without overnight stays, you can simply take a taxi. For nearby destination worth to visit see also Diani Beach and Mtwapa.

Buy


Like in all of Africa, haggling is common in small shops. Especially if you are an obvious foreigner, the initial price is usually higher than what is normally paid for the merchandise. Just make sure you don't ask for prices in English. Use the little Swahili you know so as not to overpay.

The best places for buying souvenirs are the districts of Kinyozi, Mwembe and Tayari which are surrounding Haile Selassie Road and also Biashara Street (Biashara means "commerce" in Swahili). Specialities include:
 * kitenge (vitenge in plural): fabrics decorated with colorful motifs for women to be worn around the waist or tied on the head
 * kanga: similar to kitenge but also decorated with a border running along the sides and a written Swahili proverb.
 * kikoi (vikoi in plural): the "kitenge" for men, sometimes made of wool and usually decorated with strips or tartan
 * batik: originating on Java, batik has been known on the Kenyan coast for centuries. The pieces are cloths are woven by hand but not hand painted. Should not be washed in a washing machine.
 * kiondo or chondo (vyondo in plural): handmade handbag with leather trim often beautifully decorated with beads or shells
 * ndala: hand-made sandals made from leather and old tires (for the soles), these stylish shoes are a great souvenir from Mombasa. Local craftsman use colorful beads and pieces of leather to create a vast variety of shapes and decorations. No two pairs are alike. Ksh 500.

In the old town you can find stores selling silver jewellery and small furniture handmade in typical Swahili style. Also here, haggling is the rule.

There are two important workshops selling their productions directly to customers:

Banks and ATMs

 * All the banks on this list have no ATM withdrawal fees for overseas cards (June 2023).
 * Cooperative Bank has ATMs all over Mombasa that accept Mastercard & Visa card.
 * Ecobank on Jomo Kenyatta. accept Master card & visa card.
 * GT Bank Moi Avenue accept mastercard & visa card.

Shopping malls & supermarkets

 * Nawal Centre Department store. George Margaret Road. 8:30AM-7PM. A 7-floor department store.
 * Nawal Centre Department store. George Margaret Road. 8:30AM-7PM. A 7-floor department store.
 * Nawal Centre Department store. George Margaret Road. 8:30AM-7PM. A 7-floor department store.
 * Nawal Centre Department store. George Margaret Road. 8:30AM-7PM. A 7-floor department store.
 * Nawal Centre Department store. George Margaret Road. 8:30AM-7PM. A 7-floor department store.

Eat
Mombasa is a cosmopolitan city with Arabic, Chinese, European and Indian influences, and this can be seen in the local cuisine. Many local dishes include coconut, for instance waly ya tui (basmati rice with coconut milk), kuku wa kupaka (chicken with coconut milk) and mahamri (coconut donuts with cardamom).

Budget
Pizzerias and snack bars serving Kenyan cuisine are found in Mvita and places that are frequented by tourists such as the beaches. Many hotels also offer this kind of affordable eating. If you want to try out the Kenyan cuisine in such places, check that the place is overall clean, that it does not smell of old frying oil. Moreover, ask for drinks in unopened bottles, avoid ice and peel any fruits. If you follow these tips you can have a great and affordable meal - Ksh 250 will buy you a large serving and a beer.

Self-catering
If you who want to prepare your meals yourself, the easiest and most hygienic way is to go to one of the two big supermarkets such as Naivas or Carrefour. There are two malls in Kisauni:



Drink
There are quite a number of good bars, pubs and entertainment spots in Mombasa Town and the North Coast. Nightlife is very vibrant in Mombasa and in the village Mtwapa (15km north of Mombasa, called "the village that never sleeps").

Sleep
Hardly a tourist will stay in Mombasa city, but mostly along the beaches of the north or south coast.There is a wide range of accommodation on offer in Mombasa from camping to Backpacker hostels to hotels and villas with all comforts.

Budget

 * Akogo House Backpackers . Beach Road next to Oswal academy Nyali. +254 718 909559. Double Rooms from Ksh 1300. Free Wi-Fi. Garden. On site coffee shop. Shared kitchen.
 * Akogo House Backpackers . Beach Road next to Oswal academy Nyali. +254 718 909559. Double Rooms from Ksh 1300. Free Wi-Fi. Garden. On site coffee shop. Shared kitchen.
 * Akogo House Backpackers . Beach Road next to Oswal academy Nyali. +254 718 909559. Double Rooms from Ksh 1300. Free Wi-Fi. Garden. On site coffee shop. Shared kitchen.
 * Akogo House Backpackers . Beach Road next to Oswal academy Nyali. +254 718 909559. Double Rooms from Ksh 1300. Free Wi-Fi. Garden. On site coffee shop. Shared kitchen.
 * Akogo House Backpackers . Beach Road next to Oswal academy Nyali. +254 718 909559. Double Rooms from Ksh 1300. Free Wi-Fi. Garden. On site coffee shop. Shared kitchen.

In Changamwe
Being chiefly an industrial area, Changamwe has little accommodation to offer, there are just two hotels.



In Kisauni


The hotels bordering the beaches of Nyali, Bambur and Shanzu are all equipped for arranging wedding ceremonies including religious weddings on the beach. These beach hotels are also famous for arranging Mombasa's New Year's fireworks.



In Likoni
Even as Shelly Beach is as beautiful as the ones in Kisauni, many of the beaches in Likoni, e.g. Tijara Beach, are private and can be rented (refer to the section apartments and villas). Just two hotels can be classified as three star hotels.



Apartments and villas
If you prefer something calmer than hotels, there are also apartments and villas to rent.

Mail
Mombasa has several post offices open M-F 8AM-12:30PM and 2PM-5PM.
 * in Changamwe: international airport, Changamwe-Magongo and Kipevu
 * in Kisauni: Bamburi, Kengeleni, Kisauni-Mtopanga, Mkomani and Nyali
 * in Likoni: Likoni-Ferry and Mtongwe
 * in Mvita: Docks (in the port of Kilindini), Kilindini, Makupa, Mwembe

In Mvita there's also the central post office that's open throughout the day and on Saturday:

Phone and Internet
All the Internet cafés in Mombasa have phone booths but the fees for calling abroad are very high.

Wi-Fi is widespread in the city and many hotels and restaurants offer guests free access.

Cope
Governmental offices are in general open M-F 8AM-3PM, except national holidays.

Banks
Except for the central bank, banks are open M-F 9AM-3PM and 9AM-11AM on the first and last Saturday of the month. Currency can be exchanged in all banks. You can get money from ATMs using Visa and Mastercard credit cards. If you have a Maestro debit card you can use it at the ATMs too provided you have notified your bank of your trip to Kenya.
 * All ABSA' and Standard Chartered Banks' ATMs have a Ksh 700 fee for overseas ATM cards.

Veterinary clinics
If you travel with a pet, there is one veterinary clinic in Mvita and two in Kisauni.



Houses of worship
The majority of Mombasa's inhabitants are Christians and there is also a large Muslim minority. Adherents to these religions will not have difficulties finding houses of worship. Moreover, there are many Hindu temples in the city.

The most important Christian churches are:

Consulates

 * 🇧🇪 Belgium
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇨🇭 Switzerland

Stay healthy


Consult the safety guidelines for Kenya for general safety suggestions.

The area of Mombasa has about 60 healthcare establishments from hospitals to small clinics. Some of them also have a center for control and prevention of diseases in cooperation with the U.S. governmental agency Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. See also Department of Health - Mombasa County.

In Mvita
Mombasa's major hospitals including Kenya's second largest public hospital, Coast Grand Hospital, are situated in Mvita. In addition to the maternity section "Lady Grigg", this hospital also specializes in otolaryngology, ophthalmology and odontology. It has modern equipment and a laboratory and pharmacy that are open 24 hours. The public hospitals in Port Reitz and Likoni are smaller sub units of the Coast General Hospital.



Stay safe
Emergency number: 112

Several countries have issued warnings that the city centre is not safe during the night, that car-jacking is widespread and that robberies after sunset at the beaches can occur. Use common sense and a healthy dose of scepticism for your surroundings.

If you want to go out at night in pubs or restaurants always take a taxi, not on foot or motorbike taxi or tuktuk.

As elsewhere in Africa it's badly regarded — if not outright prohibited — to take photos or film airports, banks, military areas, police stations, troops or police officers without authorization. In general you should ask people if you may take photos of them. When walking, watch out for pickpockets and don't show off expensive electronics. When driving, keep the car doors locked both in daytime and nighttime.

The police is present on public places, especially in areas frequented by tourists like Mvita and the beaches. Public areas like the airport, post offices, banks, and malls. are guarded by security guards. Similarly, upper-class homes and apartment buildings are also guarded around the clock.

Following the intervention by the Kenyan military in Somalia, the terrorist organization Al Shabaab has committed several attacks in the country, some of them in Mombasa. In July 2014, two female tourists were murdered in separate incidents. A Russian tourist was killed in a hit and run attack in front of the Shia Sheri Mosque in the Old Town. Another female tourist was shot and killed in the Kibokoni area. The identity of the attackers are not known.

If you are sitting at an outside terrace, do not sit next to the road. You should also avoid riding matatus, immediately leave areas with ongoing demonstrations of any kind, and never visit the slums without a guide. Before exploring the city on your own, you should ask the hotel staff which areas are safe.


 * Local police stations :
 * Local police stations :
 * Local police stations :

Nearby
Some points of interest, less than 50 km from central Mombasa, can be visited on day trips.
 * are inscribed as a list, and located about 30km north of Mombasa.
 * There are two elephant sanctuaries near Mombasa: and.
 * Diani Beach - the number one beach in Kenya with a lot of beach resorts and with a primate conservation center, about 35 km south of Mombasa. 70 km south is the Msambweni Beach, a touristically untouched part of the coast.

Further away
Long distance busses all have a booking office in Mombasa Road. Matatus also leave in that area.
 * Voi 153 km (2 hr by car) - Tsavo East National Park. From Voi it's a little over 100 km to Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain, located in Tanzania.
 * Malindi 116 km (2 hr by car, bus or matatu) - beach activities, the Vasco da Gama pillar where the Portuguese explorer landed
 * Lamu 336 km (5 hr by car, 1 hour by plane) - colonial beach town inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list
 * Nairobi 525 km (7 hr by car, 5 hr by train, 45 min by plane) - Kenya's capital has museums and gardens to visit.
 * Tanga Tanzania 173 km by bus, 4 hours. (Tahmeed, Emirates, Samba buses)
 * Dar es Salaam, Tanzania 515 km (12 hr by bus, 35 min plane) - the former Tanzanian capital offers museums, beaches and markets

Matatus to northern towns like Malindi leave at the Malindi Kilifi bus terminal close to New Nyali Bridge.