Mogadishu

Mogadishu (Somali: Muqdisho; Arabic: مقديشو‎ Maqadīshū) is the capital and most populous city in Somalia. Once a beautiful city that merged Somali and Italian cultural and architectural traditions, much of it now lies in ruins after decades of civil war. Security remains a serious issue, and although the city is now undergoing a construction boom, whether this restores Mogadishu to its attractive days of yore is yet to be seen. Attractive or not, for the hardiest of travellers Mogadishu reveals a wealth of historical and cultural sights set within a bustling metropolis. War weary and longing for the future, Mogadishu is slowly emerging from years of instability and is at last beginning to define its own destiny, inshallah.

Understand
Archeological evidence demonstrates settled living in Mogadishu going back four thousand years, well before Arab trade or influence. During the middle ages it was the centre of the Mogadishu Sultanate, before coming under the control of the Muzaffarids from Zanzibar in the late 14th century. The famed traveller Ibn Battuta arrived in the city in 1331 when Mogadishu was at the peak of its prosperity. He described Mogadishu as "an exceedingly large city" with many rich merchants, famous for its high quality fabric that it exported to Egypt and elsewhere.

Vasco Da Gama passed through Mogadishu in the 15th century and observed a large city with houses of four or five storeys high, with big palaces in its centre and many mosques with cylindrical minarets. In the 16th century, Duarte Barbosa noted that many ships from the Kingdom of Cambaya sailed to Mogadishu with cloths and spices for which they in return received gold, wax and ivory. Barbosa also highlighted the abundance of meat, wheat, barley, horses and fruit on the coastal markets, which generated enormous wealth for the merchants.

Italy colonised Somalia in the late 1800s and in 1905 made Mogadishu the capital, naming it Mogadiscio. Thousands of Italians began to settle in Mogadishu, and the colonists immediately initiated plans to transform the city. The old city walls were knocked down and suburbs created. Fascism was in vogue in Italy, and Mogadishu was intended to be an imperial city. New, broad roads were constructed, the seafront reconstructed, and the old historical quarter was spared little mind in the Italians' ambitions. The Mogadishu cathedral was constructed by the Italians in 1925.

Italy lost its colonial hold on Somalia after World War II, but Mogadishu had by this point adopted a unique Italo-Somali character. Architecturally, a Somali style – coral-white houses, Arab quarters – mixed with Italo-fascist modernism – planned suburbs, wide boulevards, a stripped-down aesthetic. Mogadishu had also acquired a degree of European flair – a café culture, evenings strolling the shops. Pasta had become a Mogadishu diet staple. Somalia gained its independence in 1960 and, for a time, tourism thrived. Somalia was nicknamed the "Switzerland of Africa", and grand hotels overlooked the oceanfront in Mogadishu. But by the 1980s the Somali government had taken a totalitarian turn and popular unrest began to brew. In 1989, riots resulted in a large exodus of foreigners from the city. Civil war broke out in 1991. The war devastated Mogadishu. Much of the architecture was destroyed. In 2006, the Islamic Courts Union assumed control of the city and imposed sharia law, managing to bring a semblance of stability. They were soon driven out by the Transitional Federal Government, while the Islamic Courts Union splintered into factional groups, one of which is the infamous al-Shabaab. The Transitional Federal Government has held tenuous control of the city ever since. As of 2023, war continues to rage (at least periodically) in the rest of the country.

Mogadishu began to rebuild, yet it is still plagued by extreme violence. In 2017, over 500 people were killed by a truck bombing. In March 2022, al-Shabaab killed over 60 people in a series of attacks. In October 2022, an al-Shabaab double car bombing killed over 120 people. Despite the violence, there is cause for optimism. The city has experienced a construction boom. Foreign direct investment has increased. At least twenty foreign embassies have reopened. Mogadishu is, and will remain for some time, one of the most unstable cities in the world, but it is also a large metropolis, holding over 2.6 million people as of 2023. The future of Mogadishu is not exactly bright, but it's not dim either. While there is little mind paid to tourism or tourist infrastructure in Mogadishu, it remains a city with few equivalents in Africa.

By plane
Flights arrive at Mogadishu International Airport, also known as


 * African Express Airways has services between Mogadishu and Abu Dhabi, Aden, Berbera, Bosaso, Dubai, Galkayo, Nairobi-Jomo Kenyatta, Sharjah, & Wajir.
 * Air Djibouti only from Djibouti
 * BlueSky Air services that link domestic cities in Somalia with its hub at Mogadishu International Airport and the rest of the world via Nairobi Wilson Airport in Kenya.
 * Daallo Airlines has services from Djibouti stopping en route at Hargeisa.
 * Fly-SAX offers service from Nairobi.
 * Turkish Airlines have a twice-weekly service from Istanbul Airport via Djibouti
 * Ethiopian offers daily flights between Addis Ababa and Mogadishu
 * Qatar Airways has flights to Mogadishu, from Doha, via Djibouti
 * Qatar Airways has flights to Mogadishu, from Doha, via Djibouti

By road
It is possible to drive into the city by truck, but this is considered a risky activity, unless you employ a group of local militia which are available for hire. Roads link the city with many Somali locales and with Kenya and Ethiopia. Armed guards, hired security forces, and experienced guides are all mandatory for a safe entry, and even then the risk of your being injured, killed or captured is extremely high.

By boat
Small cargo ships regularly leave from the Old Harbour of Mombasa for Mogadishu and sometimes Kismayo. Speak with the security officers at the gate of this tiny port and they will negotiate a fare with the captain. The journey will take 2-5 days, depending on conditions. The sea is rough in July–August, requiring lengthier travel.

Get around
Roads are a muddy mess during rain, traffic lights do not always work and there are no enforced traffic laws or public transport. The road network in Mogadishu is slowly being repaired and paved. A vehicle with driver and armed guards is a must. Break-ins at intersections are possible, so avoid openly displaying anything that could be considered valuable by a Somali. Better still, hire an armoured vehicle with driver and guards.

See


The central city, especially the old Shangani quater (Degmada Shangaani), is filled with historic sights and contains a mix of Islamic and Italian colonial architecture. Decades of conflict have however left most of it in ruins. There is an ongoing effort to restore some important landmarks, including the main cathedral. Visitors should have a security guard accompany them.



Markets




Buy


Most markets and especially the Bakaara Market are a focus of ongoing arms control efforts for the disarmament of Somalia. Marketplaces should be considered hazardous not only because of their content and the presence of some unsavory characters, but also because they have caught fire several times in the last few years.

Eat
International cuisine can be found at Nasa Hablod Restaurant inside Hotel Nasa Hablod and at the Sahafi Hotel. These are probably the safest options for travelers.

Drink
Mogadishu is overwhelmingly Muslim, and has a social taboo against alcohol, as does the whole country.

Stay safe


See the warning at the Somalia article for information on the security situation.

The city remains very dangerous for independent travel. Petty theft and violent crime remain significant threats in a city which has effectively been in a state of war for over 30 years and full of unemployed people with few possessions. Any white person and most other foreigners are thus regarded as wealthy and a target for crime. If you must venture around the city, you should be accompanied by hired guards and ride in an armoured car. Smash-and-grab break-ins are possible in non-armoured vehicles. Ensure your hotel has armed guards 24/7, and do not trust your valuables to be left in your room.

Basic services, such as water and electricity, are not reliable, and you should not drink the water. Food and bottled drinks sold in the city may or may not be safe to consume. Try to get the advice of another foreigner who has been in the city a while. Health services are limited.

Cope
The availability of consular services in Somalia is limited. You may need to contact your country's embassy in Nairobi instead.

Embassies

 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇰🇪 Kenya
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * Gondershe. An ancient stone city and ruins.