Miyako (Okinawa)

Miyako (宮古島 Miyakojima) is the largest of the Miyako Islands.

Understand
Most of the Miyako's 50,000 or so residents live in Hirara (平良), the main business and entertainment district on the island. The rest of the island is pretty much undeveloped, with the exception of a few coastal tourist spots, especially Shigira (シギラ) in the south. Sugar cane and to a lesser extent tobacco are the island's cash crops. There is not much to see, not much of a downtown, no man-made wonders to behold, no rivers to explore and no mountains to climb. Don't despair! The lack of rivers and mountains means there is no silty run-off to cloud the water. Miyako and the two connected islands, Kurima (来間) to the west and Ikema (池間) to the north, have miles of nameless white sand beaches and clear blue water. On a moonlit night you can wade out chest deep to watch the "yakouchu" (夜光虫, Noctiluca scintillans) and still see your toes wiggle. During the day the snorkeling, diving and other beach activities are as good as it gets in Okinawa.

Tourist information site
The local tourist association has a Japanese-only guide site, also covering five smaller islands nearby.

By ferry
As of April 2024, there are no scheduled ferry services from outside the Miyako Islands.

By bus
Public transportation on Miyako is limited to buses that run every couple hours. Though they are fairly cheap (max ¥500 one way), they are inconvenient and seem to run on island time. Ask for information at your lodge or hotel, but don't be surprised if they don't have any more information than what is printed in the local tourist magazines.

By taxi
Taxis are a viable option especially if two or more people are heading to one location for the day. Expect to pay about ¥2,000 from downtown Hirara to Maehama Beach, and arrange for return.

By car
Car rental is fairly expensive and scooter and bicycle rental isn't much cheaper. That being said, having your own transportation is key to enjoying what Miyako has to offer. There are several national agencies at the airport charging ¥5,000 or more per day. You must have an International Driver's Permit and a valid driver's license to drive in Japan.



See
Beaches clockwise from Hirara Port:


 * Sunayama is nice place to take a photo but not a particularly good place to swim. Drive 30 minutes north on Rt. 83 to Rt. 230 and cross the bridge to Ikema. Get a drink at the tourist trap, climb up and look at the view. Continue clockwise around the island just to say you did it, and less than a kilometer from the tourist trap you will find two excellent beaches named after their prominent features, one called Rope and one called Block. There are no signs, but maybe a car or two parked beside the road. Block has some nice coral, just be careful of the currents.
 * Next head way back south and east on Rt. 83 in the direction of Gusukube. On the way you will find Aragusuku, a great shallow beach with lots more fish and coral. Two groups rent stuff and sell refreshments during the summer months. Go to the left side and feel free to sit at the tables. The proprietress is the chamisen playing, occasionally booze drinking, beach loving Yasuyo-san. She also runs a nearby pension. Yoshino is another decent place a couple kilometers down the road. They charge ¥500 for parking.
 * Though it's not actually a beach, follow the signs to Higashihenazaki is a picturesque point with a lighthouse. As it's the easternmost point on the island, it is a popular place to watch the sun rise.
 * Head back to Rt. 83 was in the direction of Bora and the very commercial Bora Beach Park. Stop in or continue west on Rt. 235 to Shigira a once wild place that has been taken over by mercenaries from Tokyo. The rocky beach is now manicured but still open to the public so you can bring your cooler and chill at their expense. The cove is fairly well protected, so a good option for kids or when the weather is bad. Swim out to the middle and just before the rock formation there are some anonome fish.
 * Continue west on Rt. 235, cross the bridge to Kurima. Park in the lot on the left just after you cross and take the stone path 10 minutes to Tako. There are fish in the tide pool and lots more to see on the other side of the rocks, but be careful. Next stop Nagamahama. Follow the signs to 長間浜, look for a couple cows tied to a tree. Park in the lot and walk to the ocean.
 * Head back across the bridge, turn left and proceed to Maebama, Miyako's most popular beach. Locals tend to hang out near the boat launch on the bridge side, though they also frequent Windy, a beach house serving Miyako-soba (¥500) and other very reasonably priced food. Maebama continues for almost 10 km somewhere turning into the secluded kite-board spot Nishi-hama and then the slightly odd Sanitsu-hama. During low tides you can walk the beach from Maebama to Sanitsu-hama (just sneak through the Tokyu Hotel's bogus private area) but there are also paved jogging trails on land.
 * After leaving Sanitsu-hama take Rt. 390 from Shimoji back toward Hirara and Painagama Beach just before Hirara Port. Paiangama isn't a particularly good beach by day, but convenient after a night on the piss. Just be safe!

Do
Scuba diving is probably Miyako's main attraction. Everyone on Miyako knows someone who "has a boat." Usually they can get you a small discount or at least some priority. If you don't like what one person says ask another.

Other activities:

Buy
Miyako-jima doesn't really have any particular claim to fame in the souvenir area. Most things available in Miyako come from the main island of Okinawa or mainland Japan. There are locally grown fruits, mangoes (June to August), dragon fruit (May to October) and island bananas (year round), but they are not unique to Miyako and are subject to import regulations. Miyako-jima salt holds the Guinness World Record for the salt with the most complex mineral make-up. The salt is available in souvenir stores, supermarkets and a salt shop on Nishizato street.

Awamori (泡盛) is available everywhere and though it isn't made on Miyako, Taragawa (多奈川) is a popular brand. Kuusu (古酒) is aged awamori and a bit more expensive.



Eat

 * Self-Catering
 * San-ē (サンエー), on Matida-dori, is your best bet for low priced meats and veggies.
 * Bass Line (ばっしらいん), near the Max on Rt. 78 serves cheap, large portions of decent food and has a picture menu.
 * Bass Line (ばっしらいん), near the Max on Rt. 78 serves cheap, large portions of decent food and has a picture menu.
 * Bass Line (ばっしらいん), near the Max on Rt. 78 serves cheap, large portions of decent food and has a picture menu.

Drink
The local beer is Orion, brewed in Nago on the main island of Okinawa. It tastes different from Orion sold in the rest of Japan which is made by Asahi. The other local drink is awamori (泡盛), which is usually 30% alcohol in Miyako. Much has been written about its potency and locals will tell you that it is good for you and doesn't give you a "bad drunk" (waru-yoi) or a hangover (futsukayoi). Nonsense! It can be drunk in many different ways, but for starters try the orthodox: on the rocks, 2 or 3 parts water to 1 part awamori and drink it as you would any other 10% alcohol drink.

Miyako has its fair share of watering holes, so just ask around. It's also perfectly legal to head to the beach with your cooler and some fireworks. Just follow the golden rule and leave the place cleaner than you found it.

Go next
RAC offers island-hopper flights to Tarama. You can also take the ferry to Irabu and Shimoji Islands.