Milford Road

Possibly dubbed as one of the world's most beautiful drives, Milford Road (SH 94, sometimes Te Anau–Milford Hwy and Milford Sound Highway) is the sole road linking New Zealand's most popular fiord, Milford Sound, with the rest of the highway network at Te Anau. Although most travellers drive end-to-end from Te Anau to Milford Sound, there's plenty along the way between the two as much of the road is in Fiordland National Park in Southland. Do be wary, though, some of them can get very busy during peak holiday season, especially when there are tour buses around.

For the purposes of this article, this is a guide to travelling independently on the highway – if you are travelling on a tour bus, your itinerary will be chosen for you (which depends on operator).

History
The route of Milford Road could have taken a very different turn. Although the highway now starts at Te Anau, it was initially planned to start around Lake Wakatipu and run north-west from there.

Planning for a road to Milford Sound began in 1909, though limited studies were also conducted beforehand in 1889. However, it was not until 1935 until this route's core chokepoint, the Homer Tunnel, was excavated and only in 1953 when the tunnel was completed. Unlike modern tunnels, the Homer Tunnel was excavated by pick and shovel (a practice far more common back then). Working conditions on the road were rough, especially with the ever-imminent threat of an avalanche (a threat that still poses an issue for workers today).

It was not until the 1980s until the road was fully sealed; before then, much of the road was gravel. While Milford Road of today is vastly superior to the Milford Road of the mid-20th century, the Homer Tunnel still poses one of the highway's biggest safety risks. It is only 1 lane which results in traffic having to queue up on either side of the tunnel and often spend up to 20 minutes. This is particularly problematic during the winter due to the risk of avalanches. Avalanche protection measures have been implemented (or are being implemented) on either side of the tunnel. The topic of widening the tunnel has been brought up several times in the last few decades but considering how little traffic the tunnel receives outside holiday season, all such projects have been shelved due to funding issues. Today, large parts of the route are deemed no stopping zones due to this very risk.

Route
Entering Te Anau, the turns northeast, skirting Lake Te Anau to Te Anau Downs, then heads into Eglinton Valley, following the Eglinton River to Lake Gunn and Lake Fergus. Next, it winds through the Darran Mountains towards the Homer Tunnel, opened in 1954, cutting through Mount McPerson and Mount Moir. Beyond the tunnel, it traces Cleddau River before ending at Milford Sound/Piopiotahi.

Although Wikivoyage uses "Milford Road", the road actually consists of four different names. In Te Anau town centre, the road is simply known as "Milford Road", but once you leave Te Anau, it changes its name to Te Anau Milford Highway up until the Homer Tunnel, which is simply named the Homer Tunnel. West of the Homer Tunnel, the road is called the Milford Sound Highway until the end of the route.

Prepare
The drive is remote, but you won't need a whole lot for this journey unless you are veering onto one of the long-distance hiking trails such as the Routeburn Track (which is not in the scope of this itinerary); the one thing that cannot be emphasised enough is to fill up your fuel tank at Te Anau. Fuel is at a premium at Milford Sound so you're going to want to have enough fuel to get you there and back.

The weather can get very cold, especially during the winter, so make sure you bring a good thick jacket even in the summer. Closed footwear is also highly advisable.

There are no shops along the way – bring some snacks along with you, but ensure you leave no trace (keep the rubbish in the car).

You do not need a special car for this drive. It is fully sealed; a tiny hatchback will suffice. Unless you want to be a menace on the road, don't drive a giant ute on this highway. The lanes are narrow and parking spaces are small. You will only inconvenience everyone else due to your own actions.

Get in
Milford Road starts at. Specifics on getting to the start of the highway can be found at Te Anau &sect; Get in. Ensure you check weather condtions beforehand.

Drive

 * – just north of this is Te Anau Downs, from where the ferry departs for the start of the Milford Track.
 * – the only valley in Fiordland National Park fully accessible by road.
 * East Eglinton Track – a 2-hour return track from the start of Eglinton Valley to the East Eglinton River Valley and back.
 * – if Reflection Lake (Lake Matheson) in Westland Tai Poutini National Park was not enough, this lake on a clear day is a literal mirror. Access is via a 5-minute loop walk.
 * – you pass the 45°S line here – as you cross this line, it means that you will be closer to the equator than the South Pole.
 * – a powerful waterfall in an area that has heavily been impacted by avalanches. If you're up for a bathroom break, this is your last chance to use flush toilets before Milford Sound.
 * – marks the start of the Lake Gunn Nature Walk, a nice easy stroll through red beech forest. It should take about 45 minutes return.
 * – a small and simple lookout of Lake Gunn.
 * and – too neighbouring lookouts each with endless lookouts of the towering mountains along the extensive valleys.
 * – a very blue cascade waterfall and one of the very few that manage to get so close to the side of the road. There is a footpath connecting the carpark and the waterfall, but it does require you to cross the road – do this with extreme care as it is often slippery.
 * – not famed for the creek but rather the wildlife-spotting opportunities: especially with keas and blue ducks.
 * – this is not found on most maps, including Fiordland's website, but there is a small lookout between Monkey Creek and Gertrude Valley towards the left (westbound) with near-perfect views of the valleys and mountains with the road perfectly blending in.
 * – serene views of long valleys. Perhaps the Kiwi equivalent of Yosemite?
 * – perhaps the highlight for many, as this 1.2-km road tunnel descends down towards Milford Sound. Unfortunately, the tunnel is only one lane and thus acts as a bottleneck. The traffic lights are timed to allow 10 minutes for each way, but with traffic you should allow for at least 20 minutes to cross the tunnel.
 * – a series of powerful waterfalls that quite literally fall into a chasm. They're not large by any means, but the sheer velocity of the water through the falls will leave you in bewilderment.
 * – the final destination where you'll truly witness the magnificence of the fiord. The highway ends here in a massive cul-de-sac; refer to the Milford Sound article for details.

Stay safe
Take extra care when driving this road. According to the NZ Transport Agency, it is the third-most dangerous section of the NZ State Highway network. Much of this has to do with narrow lanes, driver inexperience, and not driving to the conditions (e.g. slippery road). Almost all of the road east of the Homer Tunnel has no signposted speed limit (which implies the default 100 km/h), which means you can drive at the speed you feel comfortable at. Do not feel pressured to drive faster because the car behind you is tailgating you.

See Wikivoyage's guide on winter driving if driving during the winter. Irregardless of the season, this region is always very rainy – in local Fiordland terms, a drought is 11 days without rain. Reduce speed when wet and do not hesitate to stop on the side of the road (provided it's safe to do so) if you do not feel safe proceeding.

Respect
Do not feed wildlife at any point in time.

Leave no trace principles should apply at all times when you're not on the road.

Go next

 * Doubtful Sound is a car-free alternative sound but also much more pricier than Milford Sound.