Mestia

Mestia is a city in Upper Svaneti of Northwestern Georgia.

Understand
Mestia is the regional capital of Svaneti. It is also the main centre of tourism for the region. It is a relatively small town of around 2,600 inhabitants, but it is the main tourist centre for the Svaneti region and as such has many of the characteristics of larger cities. It is tourist-friendly, in part due to several major construction activities including a new road (a twisty but well-maintained mountain road), a renovated town centre with a number of new buildings, and a new airport. There has also been a lot of investment in other infrastructure, such as a new district court, giving Mestia the feeling of a city rather than the rural towns it is. This has made travelling to Mestia much easier, but the main street has lost part of its former character. Exploring the streets just behind the main street immediately brings you to very rural areas with cows, pigs and chickens everywhere.

The town is very easy to navigate. It consists of three villages following the Mulkhra River, with a single main street lying through the entire town. Most guest houses, hotels and restaurants are along this street.

Prices are generally higher than other middle-sized towns around Georgia and haggling is not as normal as elsewhere.

By plane


Complete schedule:
 * Tbilisi to Mestia: M, W, F 09:30, Su 13:00
 * Mestia to Tbilisi: M, F 15:30, W 11:30, Su 15:00
 * Kutaisi to Mestia: Tu, F 13:30
 * Mestia to Kutaisi: Tu, F 11:00

The registration time is 1 hr before the flight. Flight duration is one hour. Depending on weather conditions compliant to Visual Flight Rules VFR, flight can be postponed or cancelled (full refund). Limit of the hold luggage and for carry-on baggage in total is 15 kg/per person. It's impossible to pay for extra luggage but if there is free place on board, you can take your baggage along free of charge.

Reservations are available at:

There is always a high demand for tickets, so reserve tickets long in advance. For example, by the end of July 2015 the only tickets from Mestia to Tbilisi left were for the end of August. If no tickets are available, ask to be on the waiting list. Flights are dependent on weather conditions in the mountains between Mestia and Tbilisi. As the weather changes quickly, it is difficult to plan a flight to or from Mestia with certainty and it might be a good idea to have an alternative in case the flights are cancelled.

By helicopter
There is also an option to fly to Mestia from Tbilisi by helicopter. The duration of the flight is 1½ hr. There are a few companies organizing these flights.

By train

 * From Tbilisi, take the train reaching Zugdidi, costs 16 lari (Tbilisi 21:50 — Zugdidi 06:05, Tbilisi 07:20 — Zugdidi 12:55), then follow the section below.
 * From Kutaisi you would have to take a marshrutka or taxi to Rioni station and catch one of the aforementioned trains. The price is 12 lari from Rioni. Tickets can be purchased on the train or at the Rioni station.

Trains can be full (especially private cabins), so book several days in advance.

By marshrutka


From specific destinations:
 * Tbilisi – Departures time: early morning, 05:00 and 07:00. From Didube bus station, and also from Station Square railway station. Price: 30 lari. Duration 8–10 hours, depending on the weather.
 * Kutaisi – Departing in the morning from the main bus station (next to the train station, behind McDonald's). They have Mestia signs in the front window in Latin letters. The first one seems to leave whenever it is full (maybe around 09:00), while the next one seems to leave at 10:00 even if there are still seats open. Price: 40 lari.
 * Zugdidi – Duration: 3½-4 hr including a coffee break. As of May 2019, it seems that previously competing drivers have reorganized into a cartel—they now charge twice: up to 20 lari in 2019 and then 25 lari in 2020. In 2023, people have been charged 40 lari. For alternatives, read the side box.
 * Drivers have to pay a big percent to the ticket office, even if the ticket was bought via driver. Almost no drivers agree to lower the price, because if someone in the cartel would find out, the driver would be severely punished. Some report that a "local's" price can be had by speaking Georgian to ask for 15 lari, but the guesthouses in Mestia say the price really only applies to Svan locals. Other marshrutka drivers seem happy to help locate a Mestia-bound marshrutka for visitors, below are several departure points:
 * Regular marshrutkas (1–3 per day) to Mestia wait on Gulua street or Nikoladze street in Zugdidi. Go from the train station to the main road (Rustaveli street), turn left and follow it towards the city, just before the bridge turns left and go in the Gulua street about 200 m. There should be a sign saying "MESTIA" on the right hand side. These marshrutkas run from 09:00, but will only go if there are enough passengers&mdash;expect some hours of waiting in the worst case.
 * Train-connecting marshrutkas wait in front of the train station, and the first one is scheduled to coincide with the 06:05 or 12:55 arrival of the Tbilisi train (check here). If not arriving by train, one should be at the marshrutka by 05:45 in case the train arrives early. If arriving by train at 06:00, one should rush to the marshrutka to get whatever is left of the limited luggage space and a better seat.
 * If the Zugdidi-based marshrutkas have already left or cancelled, one might try to catch marshrutkas originating in Kutaisi (~11:00) or Tbilisi (~12:00). Just wait by the side of an intersection nearby for the passing or ask other marshrutka drivers (please, provide the exact location).

By car
A new highway from Zugdidi to Mestia has been opened and the trip has become relatively safe and comfortable by public or private transport. The view on the way is amazing. The usual driving time is about 2 hr, although it can be longer in winter following snow falls, or when the road is covered with ice. Whatever the season, it is not advised to drive yourself unless you are used to such mountain roads.

Driving between Mestia and Tbilisi takes about 6½ hr.

On foot
The city is small enough to be covered by foot.

By thumb
Avoid the local taxi mafia and try to hitchhike instead if needed.

See

 * Stone defensive towers. A typical fortified dwelling consisted of a tower, an adjacent house and some other household structures encircled by a defensive wall.
 * Churches of 10th–14th centuries, including Mazhari, Trongsa and some others.
 * Stone defensive towers. A typical fortified dwelling consisted of a tower, an adjacent house and some other household structures encircled by a defensive wall.
 * Churches of 10th–14th centuries, including Mazhari, Trongsa and some others.
 * Churches of 10th–14th centuries, including Mazhari, Trongsa and some others.

Do
The two most popular tracks with tourist and easy to medium are the one to the cross and the one to the glacier. Going back from the outer church, coming from the cross, there is a spring hidden in a wooden box along the way. The water has some specific taste and changes depending on the weather.

Hiking
You can get high-quality hiking maps for free at Mestia Tourist Information center at the main square. Another good place is the souvenir shop at the Seti Square (behind the Koshki café), it sells hiking maps from several publishers (Geoland, Terraquest etc.).


 * Ushguli – 4-day Mestia to Ushguli Trek

Skiing
There are two ski resorts close to Mestia.

Buy
With the development of Mestia there are now sufficient ATMs in the city - including some without additional fee. One currency exchange office (with just marginally worse rates than elsewhere in Georgia).


 * Beautiful works of folk art can be bought at the Mountain Tourist Centre.
 * There is a small market for fruit, vegetables, drinks and necessity products, as well as a number of shops.
 * Along the main road (in the direction to Zugdidi) you will find a few little shops with secondhand clothes. These are worth a look if you need something but hiking clothes and shoes are seldom on offer.

Eat
Mestia has several restaurants and cafés in town. If you are on a budget keep an eye for the little shops such as bakeries and unnamed restaurants along the main road. These are cheaper than regular restaurants.

Drink
As anywhere in Georgia, marvelous Georgian wine, beer and chacha.

Sleep


Several people rent rooms in their houses as well:

Connect
Not much Wi-Fi access, but several cafés, restaurants and guesthouses offer free and decent Wi-Fi.

Geocell and Beeline both have quite decent signal in the area.

Go next
From Mestia, there are 3 daily marshrutkas at 08:00; one to Zugdidi (20 lari), one to Kutaisi (25 lari), and one to Tbilisi (30 lari). Seats can be reserved by your guesthouse or at the. There may be more during the high season (to Zugdidi for example at 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00). Later, you need to use a taxi.

Otherwise, checkout these interesting destinations:
 * Mazeri – A Svaneti mountain village, surrounded by a stunningly beautiful landscapes and huge waterfalls. The starting point for several exciting Svaneti trekking routes, including the Mount Ushba glacier trek.
 * Jvari – A small town with a couple of great attractions nearby, namely Enguri Dam and Silver Lake. The latter is one of the most impressive alpine treks that you can do in Georgia. Take the marshrutka to Zugdidi, and ask the driver to drop you off in Jvari (3 hr, 15 lari).
 * Ushguli – Mestia is also the embarkation point for a trip to this highest altitude inhabited point in Europe. There is another small Ethnographic Museum there, containing 12th century religious artwork.
 * To get a more authentic experience, also consider visiting nearby villages such as Lenjeri (many Svan towers), Latali (old and beautiful churches), and Becho (mountain hiking).