Merv

Merv is an old city on the Silk Road 35 km east of the modern city of Mary in the Mary Province of Turkmenistan. There is a state park for the old city center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The oasis of Merv is in the Karakum Desert at the crossing of the Amu Darya (or Oxus) River and the main route to Bukhara and Samarkand. It occupies an area of 86 x 75 km. Today the main city is Mary, which was mostly built during the Soviet period. However there are ruins of at least five older cities.

Understand
The earliest Bronze Age centers in the oasis of Merv date from 2500 BC to 1200 BC. They are in the northern part of the oasis.

The historic urban center developed around 500 BC in the eastern part of the oasis. It consisted of several walled cities, occupying an area of more than 1200 hectares. The oldest of these cities is Erk Kala. According to the famous trilingual inscription of Darius the Great at Behistun (Iran) Erk Kala dates back to the Achaemenid period (519 to 331 BC). The oasis was part of Alexander the Great's empire. Pliny the Elder reported that the city was founded by Alexander himself. It was rebuilt by the Seleucid king Antiochus I Soter (281 to 261 BC) and named Margiana Antiochia. This city is identified with Erk Kala and Giaur Kala and was occupied in the Parthian, Sasanian and early Islamic periods. It is suggested that Greek and Roman soldiers who survived the defeat of the Romans against the Parthians at Carrhae in 53 BC settled at Margiana. Islam was dominant after the death of the last Sasanian King Yazdigird III (651 AD).

The medieval city from the Seljuk period was erected west of the Giaur Kala. It was walled by Sultans Malikshah and Sanjar in the 11th and 12th century. The city extended over more than 600 ha. It was the capital of the Seljuk Empire (11th to 13th century) and one of the most important cities in this period, and by some accounts the largest city on Earth. It attracted scholars from all over the Islamic world, such as the famous astronomer and poet Omar Khayyam and the geographer Yaqut al Hamavi.

The city was sacked by the Mongols in 1221 and never fully recovered. Later (1370-1405) it became part of the empire of Tamerlane. The new city Abdullah Khan Kala was erected by Shah Rukh (1408-1471) on a new site to the south of Giaur Kala. That was destroyed by the Emir of Bukhara in the 18th century.

Get in
A drive from Mary to Merv and back, including visiting several sites of own choice (total 4 hours) cost 150 manat after negotiating (updated August 2018).

See

 * The Bronze Age Settlements Kelleli, Adji Kul, Tai, Gonur Depe and Togoluk date from 2500 to 1200 BC. They are situated in the Northern part of the oasis. Kelleli 3 and Kelleli 4 have a double external wall with towers and houses. Both sites are poorly preserved, but delivered important information of Margiana in the Middle Bronze Age. Taip illustrates the transition from Middle to Late Bronze Age. Gonur Depe is the largest Bronze Age site in Merv oasis. It covers an area of 55 ha. Excavations have revealed a huge palace, a fire temple and a large necropolis from the Late Bronze Age. Remains of large fortified buildings have been discovered in the excavations at Togoluk.
 * The Iron Age Settlements, and, in the northern part of the oasis date from 1200 to 300 BC. Takhirbaj Depe was the most important Iron Age center in this area and was occupied throughout the Achaemenid period. During excavations at Yazd Depe a great number of ceramics was found, providing the basic typology of this period. The well preserved fortress of Gobekli from Parthian-Sasanian times is nearby.
 * The Iron Age Settlements, and, in the northern part of the oasis date from 1200 to 300 BC. Takhirbaj Depe was the most important Iron Age center in this area and was occupied throughout the Achaemenid period. During excavations at Yazd Depe a great number of ceramics was found, providing the basic typology of this period. The well preserved fortress of Gobekli from Parthian-Sasanian times is nearby.

The historic urban center consist of three areas: Erk Kala, Giaur Kala and Sultan Kala.


 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.
 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.
 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.
 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.
 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.
 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.
 * The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ramparts, 30 km long, built for protection against invasions from the steppes in the North.

Do
Owing to its historical significance (and its UNESCO status), pretty much everything to do in Merv relates to visiting the ruins. Wander the ruins and get a feel for what this city must have been like during its heyday.

Eat, drink and sleep
There are restaurants and hotels in Mary.

Go next
Aside from Mary, visitors to Merv will go on in one of two directions:


 * The first is to go to Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan
 * The second is to go to Turkmenabat up near the border with Uzbekistan

The ruins of Gonur Depe are close enough that some tours will hit each site on adjacent days.

For those who are fans of Great Game history, the Panjdeh area is south of Merv and has some monuments. This is where the Russians made a final push to annex territory before the borders of Afghanistan were defined in the 1800s.