Menzies



Menzies is a small Western Australian town that has endured more than 100 years of decline after its gold rush era boom to retain a distinctive impression of the Goldfields' fickle fortunes. The graceful heritage buildings impart histories no less peculiar than the eerie sculptures at nearby Lake Ballard, making Menzies an intriguing destination for the inquisitive traveller.

Understand
Looking down Menzies' main street today you wouldn't suspect that it was a major town during the late 1800s. Gold was first discovered here in 1894 by a prospecting crew headed by L R Menzie who, while registering the claim in Coolgardie, inadvertently sparked rumour of a prodigious new gold field that ignited a minor stampede of fervent prospectors wanting to grab their own share. Lack of water forced some of the hopeful back but those who lasted the arduous trek, sustained with the promise of abundant fortune, were soon joined by numerous like-minded prospectors.

The burgeoning town was officially named in 1895 and within a year Menzies had a population of 10,000, 13 hotels, 4 churches and a brewery. Sapping heat, water shortages, fires and frequent typhoid epidemics all weakened the residents, but finally when the gold ran out so too did the fortunes of the town and with it the size of the population. By 1910 the population had withered to around 1000 and today the residents number a little more than 200. The handful of original buildings still standing are all that remain from Menzies' previous grandeur.

While Menzies has enough interesting things to see on its own, many travellers pass through here on their way to the sculptures on Lake Ballard. Not as well known, though no less interesting, are the nearby Goongarrie railway cottages and Niagara Dam.



By plane
Although there is an airport to the north of the town centre, it has no scheduled flights. Further afield, Kalgoorlie–Boulder Airport has flights from Perth Airport, which does have international flights.

By car
Menzies is 132 km north of Kalgoorlie–Boulder and 105 km south of Leonora on the Goldfields Highway, which passes through the middle of town.

Get around
Menzies is not large and the majority of sights line either side of a 300m long stretch of Shenton Street.

See
For such a small town, the places of interest in Menzies are surprisingly informative. Almost every building has an information board explaining the history and significance of what you are looking at. Dotted around the streets at relevant places are larger than life-size metal silhouette figures of miners, bakers, police, prostitutes and priests captioned with quotes from past residents that give a voice to bloodless names and dates.



Eat
Isolation and the general smallness of most country towns hinder them from having abundant eating options. Menzies can offer even less.

Self-catering is a practical option though you will need to be prepared as there are no supermarkets in town. Menzies Hotel have a very limited range of tinned or dry groceries. Stocking up in Kalgoorlie or Leonora with enough supplies to keep you going till you reach the other side will avert an empty stomach.

If you can't be bothered cooking after the long drive the Menzies Hotel sometimes has food to go with your beer.



Drink
Menzies once had 13 bars. That number has declined to a solitary choice, so if you are particular about your booze it would be prudent to BYO as the nearest bottle shop is a few hundred kilometres away.



Sleep
Your options are very limited if you want a bed. Best to have either camping gear or a caravan if you're traveling to Menzies.


 * The sign outside the Menzies Hotel (see drink) says they have rooms but the owners are not too sure if they want you to stay in them. The rooms themselves look a tad worn and dated if you care about décor, but they are your only option for a bed.
 * The sign outside the Menzies Hotel (see drink) says they have rooms but the owners are not too sure if they want you to stay in them. The rooms themselves look a tad worn and dated if you care about décor, but they are your only option for a bed.
 * The sign outside the Menzies Hotel (see drink) says they have rooms but the owners are not too sure if they want you to stay in them. The rooms themselves look a tad worn and dated if you care about décor, but they are your only option for a bed.
 * The sign outside the Menzies Hotel (see drink) says they have rooms but the owners are not too sure if they want you to stay in them. The rooms themselves look a tad worn and dated if you care about décor, but they are your only option for a bed.

Stay safe
Falling into an abandoned mineshaft is not an inconceivable danger as the area is riddled with more than 100 years of mining activity. Many sites close to town have been filled in or otherwise rendered safe but mine sites in more remote areas are left open in various states of collapse. The area around Niagara Dam has numerous mine shafts along the access road. Most of these holes are not signposted or marked on maps, but you can readily identify a likely mine by the white pile of quartz or greenish waste soil nearby. Nonetheless, perfectly safe looking ground may be honeycombed with old tunnels mere meters underground that could, and do, give way without warning. It would be prudent to tell someone where you are going if you plan to go out exploring and be careful about where you step.

Phone
Mobile phone coverage is limited to the Telstra 4G network, and only within town. The signal becomes variable to non-existent the further away you get. Coverage maps show it's possible to get a signal with an external antenna as far away as Lake Ballard, but you should not rely on it. Other networks aren't available in Menzies.

A satellite phone would be useful to have in an emergency if you intend to spend an extended amount of time off the beaten track.

Internet
Mobile internet on the Telstra 4G network has the same coverage as the phones do. The Visitors Centre have two internet connected computers you can get online for $2 for 15 min or $6.50 for an hour.

Money
If you need it quickly, the old post office has an ANZ ATM on the Brown St side. The visitors centre provides banking services for other banks. If you need something special it might be worth asking them.

Go next

 * Leonora – The fascinating Gwalia ghost town is the main attraction but the still living town is a comfortable place to shake off the dust and restock your supplies.
 * Kalgoorlie–Boulder – A sprightly gold mining town with enough history and vibrant eateries to fill the giant hole in the ground where its fortune comes from.