Mendoza

Mendoza is a city in western Argentina, in the desert Cuyo region. Mendoza is the center of the Argentinian wine industry, for which it is world renowned. It is also near the Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. Mendoza is the capital of the province of Mendoza.

Understand
Although it is in an extremely dry desert region, Mendoza has an extensive artificial irrigation system, which allows for greenery throughout the city as well as the growth of grapes used to make its wines. Most streets have irrigation channels on either side, with bridges for pedestrian and vehicular traffic. These are periodically flooded with water diverted from the river. The trees and the wide avenues give the city a beautiful ambience, a change from much of the bare feel of many Argentine cities.

To the immediate west is the Pre-Cordillera of the Andes towering over the city, with peeks at some of the snow-covered (throughout the year) Andes peaks beyond.

A siesta, or afternoon nap, is still taken in Mendoza. Most businesses close approximately 13:00-17:00, then re-open until about 20:30-21:30. Banks are only open in the mornings M-F 09:00-13:00.

Climate
Summers can be hot and dry in the city. January is particularly hot; temperatures of 40°C (104°F) are not uncommon. However, the lack of humidity makes both the heat and cool more bearable than, say, humid Buenos Aires. The nearby mountains are cool, though, even in the summer.

Winters are moderately cold in the city from late June to late August, and very cold in the mountains. Many ski centres are located near Mendoza (see below).

The Zonda wind, a wind characterized by warm, dry air descending from the mountains frequently occurs in the winter, causing temperatures to raise as much as 20°C (36°F) in a few hours. These events can cause temperatures to be warm to hot, even in the middle of winter.

Tourist information

 * Mendoza tourism website

By bus
The large bus terminal is about 2 km east of the city centre. Taxis and remis (private taxis) are readily available (USD3-4 to the centre), or it's a 15-minute walk (not recommended at night, the area between it and the centre borders on the red light district).

There are daily bus connections to all major destinations including Bariloche and Santiago, a beautiful 7-hour bus ride crossing the Andes. Santiago is not always reachable by bus as the Andes pass closes after the first heavy snowfall in the winter months, normally around late May, but when it does snow heavily, the pass is usually only closed for a few days at most. The joint immigration/customs control for Chile-out-stamps/Argentina-in-stamps (convenient) for entry into Argentina is at Los Horcones near Puente del Inca, and the one for entry-into-Chile/exit-from-Argentina stamps is at Las Libertadores in Chile, 5 km past the tunnel. The waiting time at the border which may be very long (up to 8 hours during high season).

Bus travel times to/from Mendoza:
 * 2 hours: San Juan
 * 7 hours: Santiago (But actually 8-9 with the border crossing)
 * 9 hours: Valparaíso, Chile
 * 10 hours: Cordoba
 * 13-17 hours: Buenos Aires
 * 14 hours: Tucumán
 * 18 hours: Bariloche Run by Andesmar and CATA, there is a daily direct bus even during winter (but not along Ruta 40)
 * 18 hours Salta
 * 36 hours: Puerto Iguazú, Andesmar
 * 42 hours: Río Gallegos
 * 60-74 hours: Lima, Peru (via Santiago)
 * 26 hours: Montevideo, Uruguay EGA bus lines

By plane


From the airport, you can take a remis (a type of taxi) for fixed posted prices (AR$225 to the centre in 2019). There is also a city bus (collectivo) that takes you downtown, but it comes only every 40 minutes and takes an hour to make its way downtown (but you need to buy a bus card, not available at airport).

Mendoza is a travel hub of sorts for Argentina.

Buses from Buenos Aires: Micros de Retiro.

By train
As of 2023, there is a limited passenger service from the capital Buenos Aires, travel time is about 28 hours for the full journey. Trains terminate at the western suburb of Palmira.

Get around
Central Mendoza is relatively compact and walkable: for example, it's a 20- to 30-minute walk from Plaza Independencia to Parque San Martin. However to get to the bodegas (vineyards) to the south, walking isn't recommended as it they are at least 10 km away.

In January 2019, there was the radical transformation of the public transport system, introducing Mendotran, a system which is based on the setting up of two different transport "webs": one that takes you into and out of the city proper, and one that connects the different areas of the periphery. Also be aware that bus stop signs may still be missing, and you'll have to rely on Mendotran's website, Google Maps, or the knowledge of people in the area (particularly store-keepers) to find your stop.

Buses are plentiful, but a little confusing at first. A single ticket is AR$70 as of March 2023, though it rises along with inflation every few months. You cannot pay cash for your fare, and it is necessary to purchase a SUBE card (the same as in Buenos Aires and some other cities) that you touch-in when boarding a bus. You can buy this card from some kioskos near a bus stop for AR$490 (March 2023), and charge it up at the same place. An interactive map of the city bus routes can be found on this city website: city bus map. You may also use Google Maps or other map apps to find the best way to get somewhere. The new system relies heavily on the need to change buses to get to your destination, and so it is common for Google Maps to suggest doing just that. Depending on how long your first journey is, you may not have to pay for your second one: after touching in, you have a 90-min period during which it is free to get on another bus.

The Metrotranvía (MTM) is a modern electric tram-train system. The Green Line connects the city center with the south-eastern suburb of Gutiérrez in Maipú district and is being extended to Las Heras in the north of the metro area. It uses the same prepaid-card system than the buses, and combinations with buses can be made at no cost.

Taxis are plentiful, use meters, and fairly cheap, costing about the same as in Buenos Aires. A trip from the bus terminal to Plaza Independencia will cost around AR$50 (May 2018)

Mendoza is one of the few cities in Argentina where Uber has a presence.

You can hire bicycles in town. Most hostels can put you in touch with a bicycle hire outfit. Prices are negotiable (i.e. they will charge you as much as they think you are willing to pay) but you shouldn't pay more than AR$80-100 per day. You will need some form of ID to leave as deposit. Ask to see the bike before handing over your money; many are old clunkers.

See

 * Parque San Martín. This huge park is nice for walking or biking around. There is also a zoo at the north-west corner of the park with animals in small cages. Behind the zoo begins a path up to Cerro de la Gloria where there is a large statue and nice view over the city and of the mountains. It is particularly pleasant at sunset. You can rent a bicycle at "Bicis del Parque - Bike the Park!".
 * Many bodegas (wineries) offer tours. Wine-tasting events are common; check the culture section of local newspapers or ask around. A good period to visit is during harvesting in March and April. Visiting wineries often requires reservations booked in advance (many are closed during the weekends). Some major wineries (Norton, Rutini, etc.) have regular "walk-in tours".
 * Festivals occur often and are usually free. Each has a different theme, and they usually have a stage with singing and dancing and booths that sell food around a plaza. The harvest festival at the end of February is a major event.
 * . There is a dancing fountain and light show set to pop music.

Do
Many companies organize trekking, expeditions, horseback riding, and whitewater rafting in the desert and the mountains. Mountain cabins in areas with spectacular scenery are easily rentable in the city. Check the classified ads in the newspaper.


 * Another rafting company above Potreillos (same run) is "Rio Mendoza", and for a more leisurely raft, Betancourt Rafting below the reservoir.


 * Aconcagua - America's highest peak Aconcagua (highest in the world outside the Himalayas) provides trekking and climbing possibilities. All travel agencies and backpacker hostels can organise trips - although a considerably cheaper and more flexible option is to take a Transportes Uspallata bus to the park from Mendoza's bus station. Probably you would be happy just paying the AR$25 at the park entrance to walk the short interpretive trail and lookout, rather than paying the hefty hiking fees past that you need to pay in town at the Provincial Park office in Parque San Martin (depending on how far and how many days you trek). If you want to see the top of Aconcagua, check the weather for the area before going, or you will waste your time and money.
 * Wine tour - The nearby vineyards will let you taste wine if you show genuine interest. It's possible to do a tour by bike, but there are also fully organised tours going from Mendoza. The most popular destination for biking and wine tasting is Maipu, a short bus (line 10-173) or cab ride out of Mendoza. Many outfits rent bikes and provide a map of the standard route. Do yourself a favor and choose your bike company carefully. For example, Mr. Hugo has well maintained bikes, but Bikes and Wines had terrible old clunkers and there is no better wat to spoil your day than to battle with an awful bike. The most popular high-end wine tours are Malbec Symphony Wine Tours, Ampora Wine Tours and Trout & Wine, which take small groups to better wineries and include a multi-course lunch. There are several excellent wineries on the typical route, including Tempus Alba, Viña El Cérno, Familia Di Tommaso, and Carinae. As an alternative, Bachhus Wines runs bike tours out of Chacras and will rent bikes for about AR$40, provide a map and call ahead to several vineyards. Please be careful with your belongings on the wine tours, as there have been cases of bags being snatched out of the baskets on bikes. Budget from AR$80 to 140 per person for "tastings", based on visiting between 4 and 6 wineries.
 * Cooking class - Ampora, who primarily does wine tours, also offers a cooking class for about AR$115 per person (less if paying cash). The four-hour course includes lots of wine, hands-on prep for several dishes and of course dinner. Finca Adalgisa, about 30 minutes from downtown, likewise offers a cooking demonstration several night per week. Unlike Ampora, this class is more of a demonstration than a hands-on class, but it is immensely popular. The teaching chefs for Ampora and Adalgisa both cooked under legendary Argentine chef Frances Mallmann (1884, Patagonia Sur).
 * Vines of Mendoza - around the corner from the Hyatt in downtown (Avenida Belgrano 1194), Vines of Mendoza is the premiere wine bar in the city. They choose top wines from the region and offer various flight options, each coming with five glasses. Options include the Iconos (top wines), whites, reserves, Uco Valley reserves, Sensory Tastings and even a Blending Lab where you experiment mixing different varietals and take home a bottle of your own personal blend. The Vines hosts a (meet the) Winemaker Night on Wednesdays (07:00-21:00) during high season. Their website has great local tourist information and the definitive "Insiders' Guide to Mendoza."
 * Paragliding (parapentes in Spanish) can be done in Mendoza every day of the year, depending on the winds of course. Tours include a tandem flight of about 15 minutes with an experienced pilot. Costs are about US$100. There are two companies going off Cerro Arco, both easily googleable: "zonadevuelo" (aka Fly Excursion) and "flyadventure"(aka mendoaventuras).
 * Skiing is popular in the winter, but the season is short. Closest are Penitientes (bigger) and Los Puquios (beginner) on the highway almost to the Chile border. You could either take the Espreso Uspallata milkruns, or by bus tickets or packages from the many agencies on Las Heras Street, between Mitre and Peru streets, where there are also lots of ski equipment and clothes rental shops.
 * Paragliding (parapentes in Spanish) can be done in Mendoza every day of the year, depending on the winds of course. Tours include a tandem flight of about 15 minutes with an experienced pilot. Costs are about US$100. There are two companies going off Cerro Arco, both easily googleable: "zonadevuelo" (aka Fly Excursion) and "flyadventure"(aka mendoaventuras).
 * Skiing is popular in the winter, but the season is short. Closest are Penitientes (bigger) and Los Puquios (beginner) on the highway almost to the Chile border. You could either take the Espreso Uspallata milkruns, or by bus tickets or packages from the many agencies on Las Heras Street, between Mitre and Peru streets, where there are also lots of ski equipment and clothes rental shops.

Learn
As with many cities in Argentina, there is a variety of Spanish courses and private lessons are available. There are two extablished language schools in Mendoza: Intercultural is the biggest, has a range of afternoon activities, and is slightly more expensive, Greenfields  (aka COINED) is smaller and feels even less well organised, but many of the teachers work at both schools.

Another great option for individual or very small tailor-made quality group lessons with a highly trained instructor:  Spanish in Mendoza, Argentina (SIMA).

Another interesting way to learn Spanish is by sharing accommodation. For people planning to stay for a couple of months, renting a room in a shared place could be the best option. Prices are reasonable low compared to hostels and hotels ranging from AR$700 in a student apartment to AR$130 for a homestay with no meals.

Buy

 * The wine is excellent and can be extremely inexpensive, although in terms of quality you most often get what you pay for. There are several wine boutiques which offer wine tasting. In general, you can buy the same bottles of wine at local supermarkets at lower prices.
 * Clothing tends to be fashionable and cheap for those paying in US dollars or euros.
 * Electronics are imported and thus expensive.
 * There are several mountaineering and trekking equipment shops offering a wide variety of outdoor equipment. A couple of shops are on Av Juan B. Justo near Av Belgrano.
 * Many unique home decor items are available at good prices.
 * Leather goods are also readily available and inexpensive. There are many shops on Las Heras Ave.

Eat
Good restaurants abound. For a round-up of Mendoza's more expensive eateries ask for the Guía Mendoza Gourmet from the tourist office. The main restaurant strip is on Aristides Villanueva, which runs east-west from Ave Belgrano (where the defunct railway tracks are) to Parque San Martin. It is difficult to have a bad meal here, although as a general rule be wary of special offers from places near the hostels - they may be cheap, but this shows in the quality. There are also some excellent (and pricey) restaurants on Ave Sarmiento running west from Plaza Independencia. A cluster of cheaper restaurants are on Ave Juan B Justo

Try world-famous Argentinian beef asado (roasted) from a parrilla (grill) restaurant, with a bottle of Mendoza's excellent wine. Mendoza's most famous varieties are the Malbecs from Maipú and Luján de Cuyo. Other good options are Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots.

Even by Argentinian standards, Mendocinans eat late. On weekdays kitchens open around 21:00, but few diners arrive before 22:00. On Fridays and Saturdays things don't get going until 23:00.
 * 1884, Belgrano 1188 in the Godoy Cruz neighborhood. One of Francis Mallman's famous restaurants. The food is expensive but excellent and focuses on local meat and produce.
 * Tenedor Libres: (literally, free fork) Mendoza has many good buffets that serve reasonably priced lunches and dinners. Most offer 5-10 meat dishes freshly cooked on a giant grill and a variety of side dishes and desserts. The quality of the food can be quite good and it's an excellent way to try a selection of Argentine food.
 * Onda Libre Av. General Las Heras 446

Sleep
Although Mendoza is a very liveable city, and many choose to stay for a few weeks to take language courses and the like, there is not the same short term apartment rental infrastructure as in Buenos Aries. An internet search will bring up a few options but be wary of paying deposits before you arrive as the apartment may not live up to your expectations. Traffic noise can be a particular problem.

The most pleasant part of town is between Plaza Independencia and Park San Martin - with quiet street and well kept neighbourhoods, and the bars and restaurants of Aristes Villanueva within walking distance. East of the centre is the more low rent area, and contains the cheaper hostels.

Budget

 * Hostel Lagares Corrientes 213 Downtown Mendoza; ten minutes from the bus station and 2 blocks from Ave. San Martin +54 261-4234727 US$7.80-$18.20 A very friendly, welcoming hostel with big, bright rooms, each with a full bathroom, thick mattresses, daily cleaning service, lockers, Wi-Fi, breakfast, and large common rooms stocked with fun things to do.   Very close to all the downtown restaurants, bars, clubs, shopping, and more.
 * Hostel Lagares Corrientes 213 Downtown Mendoza; ten minutes from the bus station and 2 blocks from Ave. San Martin +54 261-4234727 US$7.80-$18.20 A very friendly, welcoming hostel with big, bright rooms, each with a full bathroom, thick mattresses, daily cleaning service, lockers, Wi-Fi, breakfast, and large common rooms stocked with fun things to do.   Very close to all the downtown restaurants, bars, clubs, shopping, and more.

Stay safe
Be wary of scams, especially around the bus terminal. Occasionally foreigners will pretend to have been robbed and use your sympathy to "borrow" money for a bus ride.

Be careful arriving early morning on overnight buses. If you put your bags down, someone may try to take them.

As everywhere in Argentina, be careful of the vehicles. They do not honour the right of way for pedestrians or stop-sign laws (the police just stand around and are mostly unhelpful). Intersections are death traps, this cannot be emphasized too much, the vehicles are usually driven erratically, fast, without attention, wandering and without signalling. Look everywhere, and make no assumptions. Especially be careful when there is a bus or taxi approaching from any direction. Many pedestrians choose to jaywalk (not a crime here) in the middle of the block to avoid endangering their lives and limbs at intersections!

Consulates

 * 🇧🇴 Bolivia
 * 🇮🇹 Italy

Go next
San Juan, the quieter, greener, "Ciudad Oasis" is 150 km, about 2 hours, to the north. Bus departures every hour or two.

During the December to March high season, July mid-winter break and holidays when bus usage is especially high, buy your bus tickets out at the terminal at least a few days before you leave.