Mazar-e Sharif

Mazar-e Sharif (مزار شریف), or Mazar-i-Sharif, or just Mazar, is a city in Afghanistan and the capital of Balkh Province.

Understand
With a population of more than 485,000 (2020), Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried (outside of Afghanistan most Muslims believe that Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq). A shrine, which was rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the city of Mazar grew around it.

Historically this region was known as Bactria, its capital was Balkh and Mazar was a smaller town nearby. However Balkh was abandoned due to disease in the mid-19th century and Mazar assumed the role of capital of the region, a position it has maintained ever since. Being at a crossroads of trade, the Mazar region is more ethnically diverse than other areas of Afghanistan, and after Kabul it is considered the most open and liberal of all Afghan cities.

By road

 * From Kabul can take as little as 5 hours, via the Salang Pass. The road has been improved and is possible with a normal car. Mercedes buses leave Kabul around 04:00 to 05:00, arriving in Mazar around 13:00 to 15:00, and cost 400 Afg.
 * It is also possible from Sheberghan, Kunduz and neighbouring Uzbekistan.
 * The back road from Herat via Maimana is a very rough 3-day journey requiring a 4wd vehicle with back country preparation, and is no longer considered safe.

By plane
The Ariana flights between Kabul and Mazar have been suspended due to low demand.
 * Kam Air flies on Sundays and Thursdays to/from Kabul (leaving Kabul at 09:00, returning at 14:30) and have ceased direct flights to Herat. Kam Air also flies intermittently to Mashhad, Iran.
 * Kam Air flies on Sundays and Thursdays to/from Kabul (leaving Kabul at 09:00, returning at 14:30) and have ceased direct flights to Herat. Kam Air also flies intermittently to Mashhad, Iran.

Get around

 * Taxis are plentiful and should cost 30 Afg or less around town. Negotiate a price before setting off.

See


In the way of sights Mazar has little to offer the visitor other than the Blue Mosque - although some of the modern monuments built atop traffic circles are worth a photo. Mazar is surrounded by beautiful Mountains on two sides and is home to some Ancient Greek relics.



Do

 * The mosque is open for daily prayers.

Buy


Hand-woven carpets are common in the bazaar, both Turkoman rugs and Afghan rugs that are typically cheaper and coarser.

Eat

 * Between the Farhat Hotel and the Blue Mosque there are food stalls on both sides of the road. Bagels with green vegetables, tomato and french fries are especially good. Fruit shakes, soft drinks and tea are also available. Stalls close around sun set.

Alcohol

 * Alcoholic drinks are available at the Indian hotel (Delhi Darbar), for non-Afghans only.

Freshly made fruit slushies. Banana shakes with almonds and dates are delicious, and the persimmon version looks equally alluring. Several stands are set up near the Aamo Hotel, as well as other spots around the shrine.

Budget
Local hotels offer multi-bed rooms from US$10-20 with a shared bathroom and toilet. Cheaper rooms have the worst toilet facilities.



By plane

 * Kam Air flies to Kabul on Thursdays at 14:00 and to Herat on Mondays and Thursdays at 11:00. All flights costs 2500 Afg. Their office is one block north of the shrine on jad-e Maulana Jalaluddin Balkhi, or a travel agent east of the Aamo Hotel books tickets for the same price.
 * Ariana also has an office next door to Kam Air, but all of their Mazar flights have been suspended due to low demand.

By car
Shared taxis head to the Uzbekistan border - taking 30 minutes on a good tarred road through the desert. To drive your own vehicle will require completing some paperwork with the Uzbek embassy in Kabul.

Internet

 * Dunya Internet Cafe on the first floor of Aamo Hotel (on the south side of the shrine), has a reasonable connection and costs 50 Afg per hour.

Stay safe
Aside from the inherent risks faced by coming to Afghanistan in such a time of turmoil, Mazar remains relatively peaceful and safe for travelers. Things can change very quickly: avoid walking at night if possible, always remain friendly and upbeat, and keep aware of your surroundings. Treat police with kindness and smiles even if they aren't showing you the same respect - unfriendly passport checks are not unheard of.

Go next
Balkh is nearby and has interesting sights. It was the capital of Bactria from several hundred BCE, and the region's most important city until it was devastated by an epidemic in the 19th century and Mazar became the leading city.