Marmaris

Marmaris is a port and beach resort in Lycia, along the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. (The boundary of the Mediterranean with the Aegean is generally taken as the Datça peninsula just west.) The town straggles south to run into İçmeler, then the road crosses the mountains to Turunç. This extended township had a population of 95,851 in 2020; this more than doubles in tourist season.

Marmaris is part of the administrative province of Muğla. Public services such as local buses may be listed as if based in Muğla, and if your bag is stolen or you have an accident, that is where the police report will site the incident.

Two large peninsulas extend beyond Marmaris, like the claws of a lobster trying to grab a starfish:
 * - Bozburun is south, the stubby bifurcated "crusher claw" of the lobster.
 * - Datça is the 70 km-long narrow peninsula extending west, the "scissor claw".
 * - Symi between the claws is a Greek island.

Understand
In antiquity this place was known as Physkos (Φύσκος to its Hellenistic inhabitants). It has a good natural harbour but is hemmed in by mountains, lacking a hinterland, so it never became a major port. Its hills were quarried for marble, hence "Marmaris", though never on the scale of the Marmara Islands closer to wealthy customers in Constantinople. Its invaders (Persians, Alexander the Great, Crusaders then Ottomans) made sure to keep the castle in good repair, but it was the port where you assembled your fleet and sailed on, rather than storming inland. Süleyman the Magnificent did so in preparation for his 1522 assault on Rhodes, a victory which ensured Ottoman control of the East Mediterranean. Horatio Nelson likewise was here in 1798, and Keith and Abercromby in 1801, before sailing on to eject Napoleon Bonaparte's troops from Egypt and the Levant, and tighten Britain's grip on that region.

In peacetime the town remained a small, sleepy commercial and fishing port. It was flattened by the double earthquake of 1957, with only the castle left standing. From the 1980s tourism developed along the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts of Turkey, and in 1989 Dalaman airport was upgraded. That put Marmaris within a 90 minute coach transfer, hotels were built over every available space, and the present sprawling resort appeared.

By plane
Dalaman airport is 100 km east of Marmaris. Most arrivals are holidaymakers on West European package flights, and are bussed straight to their hotels. Havaş shuttle bus meets domestic flights, which are every couple of hours from Istanbul IST / SAW and from Ankara. This bus takes 90 min from the airport via Dalaman town, Ortaca, Köyceğiz and Gökova, for a fare in 2023 of 110 TL. The airport also has taxis, private transfer companies and car rental.

By bus
Buses from Istanbul take 10-12 hours via Gebze, Izmir and Muğla for a fare in 2023 of 900 TL. Both Pamukkale and Flixbus have buses every two or three hours round the clock, and Metro Turizm run twice a day. At Istanbul, don't be getting aboard that surprisingly cheap quick bus to Marmara Ereğlisi, which will take you to a beach resort but not the one you expected. Buses from Ankara to Marmaris take 12 hours, from Antalya seven, and from Izmir three.

the bus terminal is north edge of town, 3 km from the beachfront. It's reasonably clean and efficient. You need a dolmuş or taxi to get downtown.

By road
From Istanbul follow O-5 and O-7 (toll) south to Izmir, then Highway E87 / D550 through Aydın and Muğla to Akyaka. The last stretch is on D400 into Marmaris.

By boat
Foot-passenger ferries from Rhodes sail April-Oct, taking an hour. Two companies compete on the route, Feribot Lines and Yeşil Marmaris Lines, with similar fares - in 2023 an adult single is €40. They each have a morning and afternoon sailing so a day trip either way is possible most days, giving you six hours on the other side. There's no car ferry or winter service. Travel via Rhodes for Symi, which has no direct ferry from Turkey.

is east side of the marina. Taxis await ferries, but it's only 1 km to walk to the castle and downtown via the harbour footbridge. Vehicles have to go around a much longer route, so the taxi driver will wax lyrical about the hike he's spared you.

With your own boat, Marmaris is a Port of Entry into Turkey, so if you arrive from Greek waters you can clear immigration and customs here. Expect quite some uphills and headwinds if trying to do the check-in without an agent as a middleman (as of 2024, it's probably not even possible).

Get around

 * Old Turkish joke: "How many can you fit in a dolmuş?" - "Mmm, maybe another two . . . "

Dolmuş minibuses are the main way to get around: they ply the city main streets and link the outlying suburbs and villages. You pay a flat fare, which in 2022 within Marmaris was 5 TL (these dolmuşes have a green band across them), and to İçmeler (orange band) was 7 TL.

See

 * The lighthouse south of the castle is just a harbour light, atop a dinky tower that looks like a sentry box.
 * Hafsa Sultan Kervansaray just north of the castle dates from 1545, but it's closed and tumbledown.
 * is the focal point of town, junction of Atatürk Cd along the beachfront with Ulusal Egemenlik Cd through downtown. He looks like he's clinging on to his cap lest the breeze whips it away.
 * is the easiest entry point to Marmaris National Park, a rugged tract of pine forests with hiking trails.
 * is Marmaris' equivalent to the Blue Grotto of Capri, a sea cave flooded by ethereal blue light. It's too narrow for boats to enter; you may be able to swim in, but beware sharp rocks above, alongside and below. It's on the south tip of Cennet Island, with no land access. That hasn't prevented idiots from spray-painting the interior.
 * or Cleopatra Island is in the Gulf of Gökova, reached by boat from Çamlı (off D-400 north of Marmaris) or from Akyaka. Here are the overgrown ruins of Kedrai, with an amphitheatre, sanctuary to Apollo, cistern and city walls. A boardwalk leads through the site and past a small and a large church from the Byzantine era. The cove on the northwest shore is Cleopatra Beach, a gleaming golden strand. This beach is made of ooids, tiny pearl-like limestone spheres, and the Cleopatra legend got started because similar beaches are found in Egypt - Marcus Antonius supposedly imported one such to keep her sweet. But there are several such beaches around Turkey, as well as in the Persian Gulf, Bahamas and elsewhere. The beach material is under strict protection.
 * Orata is the smaller island just north with a few similar ruins.
 * or Cleopatra Island is in the Gulf of Gökova, reached by boat from Çamlı (off D-400 north of Marmaris) or from Akyaka. Here are the overgrown ruins of Kedrai, with an amphitheatre, sanctuary to Apollo, cistern and city walls. A boardwalk leads through the site and past a small and a large church from the Byzantine era. The cove on the northwest shore is Cleopatra Beach, a gleaming golden strand. This beach is made of ooids, tiny pearl-like limestone spheres, and the Cleopatra legend got started because similar beaches are found in Egypt - Marcus Antonius supposedly imported one such to keep her sweet. But there are several such beaches around Turkey, as well as in the Persian Gulf, Bahamas and elsewhere. The beach material is under strict protection.
 * Orata is the smaller island just north with a few similar ruins.

Do

 * The beach is sandy though narrow. The strip west of downtown has free public access.
 * Water parks are Aqua Dream on Fatih Sultan Mehmet Cd, and Marmaris Atlantis on 203rd Sk. Star has closed down.
 * Boat trips circle the bay, usually anti-clockwise via Turunç, Phosphorous Cave, and Cennet island beach.
 * Scuba diving centres include Marmaris, Professional Diving Centre and Deep Diving School, all clustered round the harbour.
 * The amphitheatre is a modern reconstruction. It remains closed in 2023.
 * Jeep safaris explore the Bozburun and Datça peninsulas.
 * Hamams - traditional Turkish baths - are in half-a-dozen locations in town, plus the spa hotels offer their own.

Buy

 * Grand Bazaar is a covered market along 59th Sk, starting 50 m inland from Atatürk's Statue. It's a modern alley, practical rather than scenic, with most vendors open daily 08:00-01:00.
 * Supermarkets: lots of little convenience stores, Migros is the main chain. Somewhat larger is Carrefour on 142nd Sk, open daily 08:00-22:00.
 * Pharmacies cluster along Ulusal Egemenlik Cd the main downtown street, and are dotted along the beach strip.
 * Reptiles is a fitting name for those who try to sell tortoises and other animals to tourists. The poor creatures will die on your way home of course, but that won't spare you a hefty fine for importing endangered species.

Eat



 * Pine honey (çam balı) is a local specialty, from the forests around Marmaris. It's darker and more viscous than regular flower honeys, and has woody, resinous undertones. Check your country's import rules before taking any food product home - many prohibit fresh food including honey.

Mid-range

 * Taj Mahal is in Karacan Plaza midway along the beachfront, open daily 13:00-23:00. Just to ensure the Brits feel at home, there's also a couple of Chinese restaurants here.
 * Taj Mahal is in Karacan Plaza midway along the beachfront, open daily 13:00-23:00. Just to ensure the Brits feel at home, there's also a couple of Chinese restaurants here.
 * Taj Mahal is in Karacan Plaza midway along the beachfront, open daily 13:00-23:00. Just to ensure the Brits feel at home, there's also a couple of Chinese restaurants here.
 * Taj Mahal is in Karacan Plaza midway along the beachfront, open daily 13:00-23:00. Just to ensure the Brits feel at home, there's also a couple of Chinese restaurants here.
 * Taj Mahal is in Karacan Plaza midway along the beachfront, open daily 13:00-23:00. Just to ensure the Brits feel at home, there's also a couple of Chinese restaurants here.
 * Taj Mahal is in Karacan Plaza midway along the beachfront, open daily 13:00-23:00. Just to ensure the Brits feel at home, there's also a couple of Chinese restaurants here.

Splurge
The hotels with the best all-round guest ratings usually offer the best dining and can serve non-residents, see Sleep.

Drink

 * Beachfront, or rather the main street a block back, has a string of pubs, including two Irish. They also stock the standard Turkish and European beers.
 * Bar street is the nickname for Barbaros Cd along the waterfront in the old town. You'll soon figure out why.
 * Vineyard: Asarcık is on the Bozburun Peninsula. Most Turkish wine comes from further north.

Sleep
Rates given here are those quoted for independent travellers, but most visitors are on package deals, effectively paying the same room rate but getting a free return flight from Europe. There are some remarkable bargains but you get what you pay for. Rooms with air-con carry a price premium so consider the season when you'll be visiting. Other common gripes are stiff charges to use the room safe, and for Wifi that is ponderously slow, and samey "all-inclusive" meals that impel you out to the town restaurants.

In theory there are by-laws against playing loud music, but they don't apply to hotels, which crank up the volume to ensure every guest enjoys the thumping beat at 1 am. The thinness of the walls also indicates why earthquakes are so destructive in Turkey.
 * Mehtap Family Hotel is a cheap and cheerful place near the beach strip at 167th Sk 10.
 * Blue Palace is basic budget rooms on 208th Sk behind Club Alize. Everything costs extra.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Mehtap Family Hotel is a cheap and cheerful place near the beach strip at 167th Sk 10.
 * Blue Palace is basic budget rooms on 208th Sk behind Club Alize. Everything costs extra.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Blue Palace is basic budget rooms on 208th Sk behind Club Alize. Everything costs extra.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.
 * Forum Residence Hotel is a budget place at Kenan Evren Blv 42 opposite Green Nature Diamond Hotel. High charges for a/c, some street noise.

Connect
Marmaris and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers, but coverage is patchy further out on the peninsula. As of June 2023, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

 * Datça is near the end of a long peninsula stretching west, a relaxed alternative to Marmaris.
 * Bozburun is the peninsula south of Marmaris.
 * Akyaka a 30 min drive north has a pebble yet beautiful beach, with pine woods growing right from the coastline, and attractive old buildings.
 * Dalyan is also a popular seaside town close to Marmaris.
 * Muğla the regional capital has an attractive old town.
 * Rhodes the Greek island is reached by a short ferry ride.