Mandalay



Mandalay (Burmese: မန္တလေး) is the second largest city (after Yangon), and a former capital of Myanmar. The city is the economic and religious hub of upper Myanmar. The city is centred on the royal palace, and has wide avenues filled with bicycles and motorcycles.

Mandalay is known for its millionaires, its monks (half of the country's monks live in Mandalay and surrounding areas) and its cultural diversity.

History
The very name Mandalay evokes the splendours of old Burma. But most people will be surprised to learn that Mandalay is not an old city, not even a medieval one, but rather a new city created by King Mingdon Min in 1857 as the new capital of the kingdom of Ava. Only two Burmese kings ruled from there, King Mingdon and King Thibaw, before the British conquest of Upper Burma in 1885. It was a city of splendour between 1858 and 1885, but most of the magnificence has vanished, gone in the fires that consume wooden structures and by intensive Allied bombing during the Second World War. The city, neatly planned with its lettered roads and numbered streets, is a British creation. The once magnificent royal palace and the great Atumashi ("incomparable") pagoda, King Mingdon Min's finest creations, are modern reconstructions. Today, Mandalay lies at the end of the Lashio Rd and it is, by Burmese standards, relatively prosperous as a centre for trade with China and India. Despite the capital having been moved to Naypyidaw, Mandalay remains by far the main commercial centre of Upper Myanmar.

People
Mandalay is ethnically diverse, with the Bamar (Burmans) forming a slight majority. There has been a major influx of Chinese from mainland China, and the Chinese (both recent migrants and descendants of colonial-era immigrants) form 30-40% of the population. Their influence is seen in the Chinese-style glass buildings throughout the city. Other ethnic groups include the Shan, who are ethnically and linguistically related to the Thais and Laotians, and the Karen (Kayin). There is also a sizable ethnic Indian population.

Climate
Mandalay has a semi-tropical climate. Winter (which is dry and cold) lasts from Nov-Feb, and summer lasts from Mar-May. Because Mandalay is in the central dry zone, it receives far less rain than the more tropical south.

By plane


Getting there/away:
 * Taxis from the airport are 15,000 kyat or 4,000 kyat per person if you fill the vehicle with others. A shared bus is available for 4,000 kyat but may leave before you can exchange cash and purchase a SIM card. Fill out your entry card while on the plane to avoid being at the back of the queue.


 * Towards the airport taxis cost around 15,000 kyat (Sep 2017) and take roughly ½ hr from the city centre. There is a security check before check-in, and you need to have your ticket, email verification or something related to your flight to get through. Further security check after check-in.

By train


From specific destinations:


 * Yangon – There are several trains daily from Yangon. While the tracks are old and, in some cases, the carriages may be old, the fifteen hour journey is quite pleasant. Trains operate during the day so that trains do not cross Pyinmana in the dark, although the privately managed Dagon Mann Express runs overnight. Fares range from about US$15 (ordinary class/hard seat) to US$50 (air-conditioned sleeper on the Dagon Mann Express).
 * Lashio, Hsipaw and Pyin U Lwin – There are two trains daily from Pyin U Lwin (US$4/2) and one from Lashio via Hsipaw and Pwin U Lwin (US$9/3 from Hsipaw). These trains are slow, crowded, but fascinating. The Pyin U Lwin - Hsipaw section includes the famous Gokteik Viaduct, a feat of Raj ingenuity.
 * Myitkyina – This 24-hr journey is on old rolling stock and even older tracks so expect it to be bumpy.

By bus


From specific destinations:
 * Yangon – There is a night bus with air-con (there are 5 options, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 21:00, and 21:30 departures, standard 10,500 kyat, VIP 15,000 kyat, 8½-9 hr) running into Mandalay. Almost certainly the cheapest option for getting between the two main cities in Myanmar. From Inle Lake, 10,000 kyat.
 * Inle Lake, Kalaw or Mid-Eastern Towns – There are buses available along this route, either a day minibus (05:00 departure, 9,000 kyat, 9 hr) or a night bus with air-con (18:00 departure). The minibus in the day takes a slightly shorter route than the larger (and some say more comfortable) full-sized night bus. Expect windy and bumpy roads, stops for picking up and putting down passengers, and, if you are lucky, a search of the bus by just-bribed police officers in plain-clothes.
 * Monywa – There are buses apparently every hour. 2,000 kyat. 3½ hr.
 * Tamu – Minivans leave at around 14:00, 15:00 and 16:00, for 20,300-30,000 kyat. One Ordinary Express (4 seats across 2 + 2) departs at 11:00, 22,000 kyat. And one VIP Express (3 seats across 2 + 1) departs Tamu at 12:30 (arriving in Mandalay at 03:50), 28,000 kyat. (May 2019)
 * Kalay – The Ordinary Express is at 15:00 and the VIP Express at 16:00, coming from Tamu. Kalay may be a convenient stopover for Tamu (for India). (May 2019)

By bicycle
The best and most flexible way to see the city is by bicycle, as traffic isn't as heavy as in other Asian cities.

By pickup
The cheapest local transportation network consists of mini-trucks, loaded with passages on two benches on the back. They run along routes all over Manadaly starting at the centre at the market at 84th/29th. A number (Burmese symbol) defines where the truck is going and usually two people are standing at the back, shouting their destination and helping people get in. If you catch one at the main hub, it is easier to ask people for the right number and price. Usually 500 kyat pp, sitting in cabin might be more expensive. Routes include:
 * 8 (၈): Centre - Aramapura (along Mandalay - Sagaing Rd.)
 * 23 (၂၃): Centre - 78th south along runway - bus station at Aung Myint Mo Hotel (buses to/from Bagan, Myawaddy)

By moto-taxi
Motorbike taxis try to charge you overly expensive prices, but they would eventually turn out to be cheaper than car taxis if there are only one or two people. Don't pay more than 1,000 kyat for a ride to the centre, including to Mandalay Hill. You can get full-day (09:00-sunset) tours for 10,000 kyat. The driver will take you to the ancient cities, Sagaing and to Amarapura for sunset.

By moto-rental
Renting a motorcycle can be a dangerous in Mandalay as driving can be chaotic, but it is a great way to see the city if you are experienced. Some hotels on 25th St rent bikes and there is an American expat in the centre who rents dirt bikes and motorbikes that can be delivered to your hotel.

By taxi
Taxis are relatively inexpensive and are excellent for travelling around Mandalay. Many sights are centred around Mandalay Hill, which makes walking feasible in that area. However, beware it is not always easy to get hold of a taxi depending on which part of the city you are, so making arrangements beforehand can help.

By trishaw
Trishaws (cycle rickshaws) are a convenient way of getting around in Mandalay if you're able to find one. If you find a driver who speaks good English you can have a tour guide and transport together for a reasonable price with a little bargaining. They only hold one or two persons.

See
Mandalay has a "Mandalay Zone Fee" of 10,000 kyat that covers most of the central attractions and lasts for about a week. Buy it from the first attraction you visit. The tickets are not always checked at all attractions and you might be able to get individual cheaper tickets for some attractions. Access to the Mandalay hill requires an additional entry fee of 1,000 kyat, and Mingung and Sagaing are 5,000 kyat extra both (not always enforced).

Do

 * Mandalay Hill, Sutaungpyai Temple, Myanmar.jpgMandalay Hill 06.jpg

Tours
Do-it-yourself bicycle tour of Mandalay: A whole day tour to Maha Muni, Innwa and U Bein Bridge. Sagaing Hill can be included as well. You can visit U Bein Bridge twice: Once during the day and once at sunset. Start early at the Clock Tower in Mandalay (26th Street, 84th Street) and cycle south 84th Street till two streets after the 42nd street. The road will then split into 2, go left. After the next bend you will see the entrance to Maha Muni Image. Lock your bicycle and take your time to explore the temple and the gardens behind.
 * Daytour "three former capitals": Amarapura, Sagaing, Innwa – You can usually book this tour at your hotel/hostel or directly with a Tuktuk driver (be careful with the price in this case). The normal price for a Tuktuk for the whole day tour is 35,000 kyat (January 2020), which can be divided depending on how many people fit the Tuktuk (usually up to 3 people). The tour starts at 08:30. First place to visit is Amarapura. You will visit the second biggest monastery in the country and watch the monks preparing their food. After that you will go to Sagaing. In Sagaing you will visit two pagodas on the Sagaing Hill, where you have a beautiful view too. From there you have lunch near a small river, which you have to cross after (2,500 kyat per person including return) to get to Innwa. In Innwa you can only get around by horse-drawn carriage (15,000 kyat per person) or walking. The carriage drivers will try to convince you that walking takes too much time, but that's not true. You have enough time to visit all the spots. After visiting Innwa you have to cross the river again. The Tuktuk driver takes you back to Amarapura to watch the sunset on the U Bein Bridge, one of the longest Teakwood bridges in the world. Usually the tour ends at 20:00.
 * Halfday tour to Mingun – For this halfday tour you have to take the ferry at 09:30 in Mandalay and will arrive at 10:30 in Mingun. The ferry (5,000 kyat per person including return) only leaves once a day. Mingun belongs to Sagaing Region and not to Mandalay Region anymore, that's why you have to pay another 5,000 kyat as "entrance fee". In Mingun you can visit the famous Hsinbyume Pagoda (a beautiful white Pagoda also called "photo pagoda") and the Mingun Bell. The ferry back to Mandalay leaves at 13:30. There are no other ferries back to Mandalay later. If you miss it, you can take a Tuktuk back or find a place to stay. (January 2020)

Go back to where the 84th Street splits into two and this time go right. Continue further south. Parallel to your street runs another, getting really close to yours after about 3 km, only to then turn right when yours goes gradually left (there is a petrol station, 100 m to your left is a white pagoda). From there continue on the main road. After 400 m the road bends right, then continues straight for about 1 km and then bends left. You can stop there to visit the Burkayar Monastery. Afterwards, continue straight and leave the main road. After 500 m the railway tracks cross the street. Continue straight through the neighbourhoods for 500 m more until you reach the Taungthaman Lake. Follow the road anti-clockwise along the lake and after 2 km you will reach the parking area of U Bein Bridge. You might have to pay a small parking fee (100-200 kyat). Cross the Bridge and settle in a teahouse on the other side.

Get back on the bicycle and go west until you hit the main road (Sagaing-Mandalay Expy) and the tracks. From there you can explore the neighbourhoods and stop by any building where you hear the dominant rattling noise of the looms. There are factory-like businesses and private homes with only one or two machines. There are plenty, and you will be warmly welcomed to any of them to have a look.

To go to Innwa follow the main road (Saging-Mandalay Expy) further south for 4.5 km, always straight until you reach a roundabout. Go straight for Innwa, or turn right and cross the bridge to Sagaing. After another kilometre you will reach a crossing. The main road bends right a little and crosses the river to Sagaing, a smaller road bends sharply left to somewhere else. And straight continues a small street of rather poor condition. Take this small street and follow it for another kilometre until you reach the river. You can only cross it by ferry (1 min). 1,000 kyat per person and 200 kyat extra for the bicycle return ticket.

Once you leave the ferry you will want to continue as soon as possible as the horse cart tour touts pester you. Follow the horse tracks.

Mahar Aung Mye Bonzan Monastery: From the jetty follow the road, go left, then right at the T-crossing. When the road turns left follow the small trail straight instead (no horse cart can pass), cross the tiny bridge. And after 50 m you reach the monastery (zone ticket). Right hand side from the main entrance there is a stupa, walled with two doors each having stairs. The stupa is connected to the monastery.

Take 2-3 hr to explore Innwa fully. Then go back the same way to see the sunset at U Bein Bridge. There are street lamps all the way to Mandalay. There are no hills, just flat land.


 * Mandalay Clock Tower - Maha Mudi Image: 4 km, 20 min
 * Maha Muni Image - U Bein Bridge: 8 km, 40 min
 * U Bein Bridge - Innwa: 8 km, 40 min

In case you got lost just ask people for the way. As few cycle in the area, not even locals, they are very curious and will gladly help you. Have your destinations written in Myanma as it's easier for people to understand. Try to get a bicycle with lights.

Costs: 1,500 kyat for bicycle, 1,200 kyat for the ferry. Alternatively you can rent a motorcycle for 10,000 kyat. But only one can fit at a time on the ferry.

Buy
Some other markets are listed under.

Eat
Mandalay is a former capital of Myanmar and a major trading centre between Myanmar and its neighbours, China, India and Bangladesh. As a result, it has a notable array of specialities from various regions in Myanmar and from other countries. Cuisine from the Shan State (usually including fermented pastes, vegetables and meats) is popular in Mandalay which has a sizable Shan minority. Muslim Chinese noodles, pronounced pan-THEI-kao-sweh (flat thin noodles mixed with an array of spices, chili, and chicken), are also famous in Mandalay and the surrounding hills. Regardless of where you eat, try to leave space for Htou moun(to-moh), a traditional Burmese dessert sold only in Mandalay; it contains a lot of oil and is extremely sweet.



Budget
Most budget guesthouses are around 25th St, between 81st and 84th Streets. There are many more than those listed here.



Stay safe
Mandalay is a haven for drug kingpins and is a main trading centre of illicit drugs. In 2005, an explosion occurred at Zegyo Market. However, Mandalay is generally a very safe city.

Go next

 * Amarapura (Pyi) – Famous for its ancient sights, and for U Bein bridge, the world's longest teak bridge.
 * Hsipaw – Bus leaves at 06:00 and 14:30 (5,000 kyat), 5 hr.
 * Mawlamyine – Overnight bus Shwe Mandalar at 18:00 (15,000 kyat), leaves from the Highway Bus Station. Quite luxurious (Swedish) bus, includes a towel, pillow, blanket toothbrushes and water. Arrives at Mawlamyine at 05:00.
 * Maymyo (Pyin U Lwin) – A former British hill station in a lush alpine forest. The small town contains a variety of colonial relics, and is most famous for its botanical gardens (modelled on England's Kew Gardens). Also known for the Defence Services Academy, the top-ranked military academy in Myanmar. Shared taxis come pick you up (6,500 kyat, back seat, 7,000 kyat front, 1½ hr). Pickups leave from the corner of 27th and 82nd (1,500 kyat, 2 hr). Train is very scenic, and is a must-do train journey if you like trains. It leaves Mandalay at 04:00 (US$3 for upper class).
 * Mingun – Best known for the Mingun Bell (one of the largest bells in the world), is a boat ride away. Boats leave from the Mingun jetty (all drivers know it) at 09:00 and return at 13:00. 5,000 kyat return.
 * Pyin U Lwin – Hill station established by the British. Pick-up trucks run east along 35th street and take about 2 hours and cost 1,500 kyat. Shared taxis leave from 27th and 79th streets (next to the Mother's World Hotel). Depart when full. They will pick-up in Mandalay, and drop off at your desired destination in Pyin U Lwin. Cost was 7000 kyat (May 2019). The train for Pyin U Lwin departs from the railway station each morning at 04:00 (May 2019).
 * Sagaing (to the east) – Has many Buddhist temples and monasteries, especially on Sagaing Hill.
 * Yangon – Overnight buses at 07:00 and 09:00 (10,500 kyat). Luxury bus for 16,000 kyat. Leaves from the Highway Bus Station.
 * Bagan by bus (OK-Bus with pick up and drop off at your hotels) 8,000 kyat. By slow boat (13 hr) on Sundays and Wednesdays at 05:30 for US$15 or express boat (8 hr) daily at 07:00 but only Nov-Feb, US$45. Ticket office for both in 35th Street & Sein Pann Road (kyat not accepted)