Managua

Managua is the capital and largest city of Nicaragua. A city that saw the death of Sandino, the rise of the Somozas, and their fall from power at the hand of the Sandinistas, Managua is full of history and the closest thing to a metropolis Nicaragua has. Ever threatened by earthquakes, Managua mostly lost its historical downtown in a 1972 quake, but is slowly gaining yet another face through the urban renewal policies of the current government. While many visitors to Nicaragua try to limit their time in the capital, you should not make the same mistake, as its theaters, museums, monuments, and historical remnants are quite worthwhile, to say nothing of the nightlife.

Understand
With a population well beyond a million, Managua is the second biggest metro area in Central America and by far the biggest city and urban center in Nicaragua. Almost every fourth Nicaraguan is a Managuan and the city still grows rapidly through people moving in, making a person "born and raised" in Managua something of a rare sight. Managua is the undisputed commercial, political, cultural and religious center of the country and many new trends originate from here before they affect the rest of the country. The Managua focus of nearly all media (print and TV) is so staggeringly large, that an address without mention of the city is almost always meant to mean Managua by default in news or advertising.

Managua's location between the rival cities of León and Granada made it an ideal compromise site when the capital was relocated in the 1850s. While this decision seemed genius at the time, geology today indicates otherwise, as there is an active fault line right where downtown Managua used to be (before the 1972 earthquake knocked it down, that is). Managua's economy is based mainly on trade. The city is Nicaragua's chief trading center for coffee, cotton, and other crops. It is also an important industrial center. Its chief products for trade include beer, coffee, matches, textiles, and shoes. A very large natural lake is the city's most prominent geographic feature. Americans call it Lake Managua, but Nicaraguans call it Xolotlan (which is also the word you'll see on signs, official maps, etc.).

The city has seen the rise and fall of political powers throughout Nicaragua's history and suffered major earthquakes in 1931 and 1972. Since the 1972 earthquake, residential and business areas have been built on the outskirts of Managua, giving rise to urban sprawl on a massive scale. Managua has been dubbed the Venice of Central America because of its escalating use of drainage canals that can be found throughout the city.

Although it doesn't have the colonial beauty of León and Granada and travelers and expats alike love to complain about the dusty hot streets in the dry season (roughly November to mid May) and the mud and torrential canals in the rainy season (roughly May to mid November), Managua does have some things to offer for the tourist. So it might be worth to spend some time here and not head out on the first bus or plane you can get.

As you can see in the climate table above, Managua does not experience big changes in temperature, but it does have a pronounced rainy and dry season. The days at the end of the dry season in May are usually uncomfortably hot, often with a lot of humidity as the clouds of the coming rainfall gather. When the rain finally does come, it can be torrential and both the streets (most are not paved with asphalt but stones) and the makeshift canals throughout the city usually take a heavy toll from this first rainfall. During the rainy season, the aforementioned drainage canals (usually dry) can become vicious streams and many a thing, person or animal has fallen in them never to be seen again, so take care.

Residents of the city and of the department of Managua are called Managüas.

Budget
Nicaragua is one of Latin America's cheaper destinations. Its hotel, food and transportation costs are a fraction of its neighbors. Eating at local restaurants is extremely inexpensive, and for US$30, a meal for four can be served at these locations. Fast food are similarly priced to those in North America and Europe. High-end restaurants are relatively affordable compared to high income countries. Foreign cuisine, like French and Italian specialties, are served at high-end locations for a fraction of the price found in North American and European cities. However, things that are unremarkable or daily fare in Europe may be considered expensive specialties in Nicaragua. Transportation is equally affordable with bus trips for C$2.50 (córdobas) and taxi trips starting at C$20. While Managua also has cheap accommodation, it is one of a few cities in the country with luxury accommodation that may even scrape the four figures in dollars.

Get in
Managua is the transportation hub of the country so if you're traveling around Nicaragua you're pretty sure to pass through even if only to change buses or planes. Routes heading to the capital are often prioritized when it comes to repairs and upgrades but they also tend to be the most prone to congestion.

By car
The Pan-American Highway crosses Nicaragua. It is marked as Highway 1 throughout Nicaragua, as it is in neighboring Costa Rica or Honduras. From Tegucigalpa, Honduras to Managua is 370 kilometers and the drive takes about 7 hours. From San Jose, Costa Rica to Managua is 420 kilometers and the drive takes about 7 hours.

By bus
International buses connect Managua to most Central American capitals and southern Mexico. The buses are usually air-conditioned and in a good shape, however bring time and patience as the trips can take quite some time. As flights between Central American cities are expensive and there are no railroads to speak of, buses are often the best option unless you are more pressed for time than money. Reputable companies include: transnica ticabus and king quality. For routes schedules and prices see their websites.

There are direct bus routes from all major cities stopping at various points. The most important bus stations from a tourist point of view are Mercado Roberto Huembes (buses to the west and southwest), Mercado Israel Lewites   (buses to the north and northwest) and UCA (minibuses to short distance destinations see below)

Buses from Masaya, Granada, San Marcos and some from Jinotepe come in through the southeastern Carretera Masaya entrance and pass by the Centroamerica rotonda before going to either Mercado Roberto Huembes or UCA.

Buses from Jinotepe also come in through carretera Sur stopping by 7 Sur, a hub to go to via Carretera Nueva and Vieja Leon and C. Sur.

To go to the mountains in the north, the Rio San Juan region in the southeast or the Caribbean coast, buses leave from Mercado El Mayoreo.

By car
As can be expected of a city of two million (and growing), Managua has serious issues of traffic congestion. This is not helped by taxi drivers and motorcyclists often driving reckless next to the suicidal and the occasional home-made horse carriage (that given the levels of congestion is not any slower than a car) clogging the streets. Almost all traffic lights see street vendors during the day selling everything from water to newspapers. Keep an eye on your belongings and close the windows if possible, as theft through open windows does occur.

Driving directions in Managua are a bit odd and can be confusing until you get used to them. The major earthquakes and subsequent political upheaval have left the city without a consistent and clear street address system. Although the government has made attempts to address (no pun intended) this problem, directions are given relative to landmarks and distances. Most addresses are given based on landmarks and with the directions al lago - north, (towards the lake) arriba/abajo (east/west; literally "up" or "down") and al sur/a la montaña (to the south/to the mountains). To make things even more confusing, sometimes the former location of a landmark or some thing that no longer exists is referenced as in "de donde fue..." (i.e. "from where ... used to be"). For example, to instruct a taxi driver to drop you off at Casa Ben Linder, the directions are "en barrio Moseñor Lezcano, de donde fue el Banco Popular, 2 al lago, 2 arriba", which means, "in the Lezcano neighborhood, from where People's Bank used to be, 2 blocks towards the lake and 2 blocks east." Not even all taxi drivers know all landmarks and as GPS systems are a bit overwhelmed by this system of addresses, sometimes the best you can do is write down a route description. That said, if google maps (or whatever you're using) knows the physical location of the place you're looking for it gets the route the same way as everywhere else.

By bus
Managua has an extensive public bus system, whose route density and service frequency would far surpass most US or Canadian cities, however it lags behind most European cities and overall public transit is worse than in Central American peers like Panama City or San José and there are no plans to introduce either "bus rapid transit" or any rail based option in the foreseeable future. There is no night bus service. Service starts early in the day, buses on many routes already running (and often full of people!) around 05:00. An unofficial interactive online map of the city's public bus routes, created by volunteers, can be found here; the site also has a downloadable map in PDF format. While buses have a reputation of being dangerous (even among Nicaraguans not living in Managua) you should be fine during daylight hours, but keep an eye on your belongings.

Unlike other Nicaraguan cities, buses in Managua are identified by route numbers; unlike most public transport systems around the world, an information placard carried by a Managua city bus would typically only include the route number, and not the names of the route's end points. At the bus stops one could also often see a sign with the numbers of routes serving it, but no additional information.

As of 2016, a single-trip fare is just C$2.50.

Besides the city buses proper (numbered routes), commuter buses that run between Managua and neighboring cities can be used to travel to points along their routes. For example, there are no city buses south of some point on Carretera a Masaya, but you can get a ride along this road on a Masaya- or Granada-bus (mostly originating/terminating at UCA or Roberto Huembes Market); typically, you'll be charged C$10.


 * No. 110 goes from mercado Israel Lewites (buses to León) to mercado Roberto Huembes (buses to Granada), passing on the way by the UCA, where microbuses leave for Granada, León, Masaya and other cities.
 * Buses to Granada, Leon, Jinotepe, Masaya, and Chinandega are also available at UCA (Universidad Centroamericana). Several city buses connect through UCA as well (102, 103, 105, 110, 111, 114, 119, 168).
 * No. 266 runs to the airport (and beyond, to Zona Franja [the Free Trade Zone]) along the Carretera Norte from the Mercado Oriental area. From other parts of the city, one can take any bus that goes to the eastern part of Carretera Norte (such as 105 or 114), get off at the bus' last stop that's still on the Carretera (typically, La Subasta), and then take an airport-bound bus (such as no. 266 or a commuter bus to Tipitapa). Watch for the airport terminal on your right; it's hard to miss, or ask the driver (or the driver's assistant) in advance to stop there. It's only a short walk across the parking lot from the bus stop to the terminal entrance.

By taxi
There are two forms of taxis in Managua: Collectivos and Privados (Collectives and Privates).


 * Collective taxis work similar to buses: they pick up passengers on the route that you travel on. Usually this means that 3-4 passengers ride in a car with a common or similar destination. This is the fastest transport available in Managua, the cost is also friendly given that the fare is split evenly among the riders. However, collective taxis are also risky given the fact that organized crime has flourished in this transportation sector because of fixed passengers. In other words, drivers already know who they pick up and thus mug the one extra passenger. This crime, however, is not common, but it is the one with the highest chance of being mugged.
 * Private taxis are the most popular option among tourists. The taxi is yours and picks up no one along the way. The fastest service in Managua also is the most expensive. These taxis have the most space and the most personal protection. If you have cargo, ensure that you hail a taxi that has a trunk. Not all cars are equipped with one.

Unlike other Nicaraguan cities, taxis are not bound to fixed rates; you'll have to negotiate a fare before you start your trip. Before getting into a taxi, take a look at the license (usually in the windshield or a side window) and the number-plate. Some Nicaraguans have taken to messaging the license plate number of the taxi they are getting in to a friend and it is certainly not a bad idea to do that as a precaution. Stay away from taxis without a license or when you perceive anything to be fishy.

By bike
While Managua is perhaps the least bikeable city in the country, it is the center of the embryonic beginnings of bicycle activism and advocacy with a critical mass ride dating back to 2011. Few dedicated cycle routes exist and many roads and roundabouts were designed for cars only, but cycling mostly avoids the insanity that is Managua traffic and the not entirely satisfactory buses and taxis.

On foot
Walking around Managua can be a frustrating experience. Few areas are designed to be walkable, traffic is heavy and in the dry season dust gets everywhere. There are some decent strolls to be had where downtown Managua used to be before the 1972 earthquake and the government has made an effort to revitalize the lakefront around Puerto Salvador Allende, but all in all, locals don't walk long distances when they can avoid it. Furthermore nothing is really close to anything, further complicating the situation.

See




Do

 * Gambling - There are many casinos, large and small throughout Managua. Star City has a number of locations. If you like to play poker, go to the Pharo's casino on Carretera Masaya. It has hold'em poker tournaments at night (when there's enough interest); $200 buy-in no limit table can be found a lot of nights, $50 tournaments. The nicest casino in Managua by far is Palms Casino just off of Carretera Masaya. Beware that casinos are said by police and regional security analysts to play a significant role in the regional drug trade and money laundering networks. This is unlikely to impact your personal safety at a casino, but does contribute to Nicaragua's security problems.
 * Play billiards - There are at least three good pool places if you're in a group, Pool8, and the two Time Off locations. All are downtown. Time Off has excellent snacks.
 * Catch a movie - You can catch good Latin American movies some Wednesdays at 19:00 at the theatre near Art Cafe (a bar) near the Parque de las Palmas. The Art Cafe is near Hotel Beneficial Las Palmas and is within walking distance to the hotel.

Buy
If you do not have the time to go to Masaya for handicrafts, go to the Mercado Huembes where you will find everything from souvenirs to hammocks, and paintings. Ask anyone how to get there.



Eat


A good breakfast is Leche Agria - a homemade yogurt-like drink. Look for signs advertising it in store fronts and pulperias. Put a little salt on it and eat it with tortilla.


 * Casa del Cafe for good coffee and breakfast. Four locations, one in Los Robles, one on the second floor of Metrocentro, one in Galerias Santo Domingo and one after the security check at Augusto C. Sandino International Airport.
 * Sushi Itto, in case you have a craving. Three locations, one in Carretera Masaya (in Plaza Familiar), one in Galerias Santo Domingo, and one in Plaza Caracol.
 * La Cueva del Buzo - great seafood freshly caught. Must go if you can afford it.

Drink

 * Toro Huaco, in the Zona Rosa across from the Picoteo. Outdoor restaurant bar that is comfortable with large groups. Sit under the stars on clear nights. Open mike night on Thursdays for joke-telling is good night to get to know the Nicaraguan sense of humor. Owner speaks English fluently.
 * Music Lounge, 2 blocks north of the Texaco in Altamira. Outdoor/indoor music bar that plays a range of music. Nice lighting and atmosphere. Show up with friends.
 * El Caramanchel, Del Hospital Militar, 3 cuadras al Norte. cultural bar with a good mix of foreigners and Nicas.
 * HipaHipa. Exclusive Club on Carretera Masaya. Entrance can be C$150, parties W F Sa.
 * Moods, in Galeria Santo Domingo located on Carretera Masaya. Fanciest and Hippest disco in Managua. Entrance can be C$150-300, parties W-Sa.
 * Broder, in Zona Rosa. Disco with entry fee up to C$150, parties Th-Sa.
 * Arribas, in Zona Rosa on top of Broder. A good atmosphere, sometimes live music.

There are tons of bars in the area south of the big BAC building downtown, find an abandoned place called Lacmiel and head east to find this zone.

Mozara, C$180 entrance fee, open bar till 14:00 Saturdays

There are also a few bars and restaurants around Zona Hippos. Woody's has good wings, Pirata's is a popular local restaurant/bar and Tercer Ojo is a more upscale resto-lounge with fusion cuisine. This area is west of the traffic light at Hilton Princess and La Union supermarket.

The Zona Rosa is an area with bars and restaurants that has sprung up in what was once a mostly residential area. It is located south of the BAC building. Highlights include Pharaoh's casino, Casa del Cafe, bars east of Lacmiel, la Casa del Baho restaurant, and Hipa Hipa bar.

There are also bars and restaurants in the new "Zona Viva" in Galerias Santo Domingo

Stay safe

 * Nicaragua has made considerable strides in terms of providing police presence and order throughout the country. Crime is relatively low, and the country has been historically ranked as the safest country by INTERPOL and has been ranked as one of Latin America's top 5 safest countries by the Vision of Humanity project. However, starting in 2008, reports of low-level gang violence began coming in from Honduras and El Salvador. The National Nicaraguan Police have been successful in apprehending gang members and reducing organized crime.
 * Remain alert at all times in Managua. Although gang activity is not a major problem in Managua nor Nicaragua, caution should be exercised. Travel in groups, or with someone trusted who understands Spanish.
 * Avoid using foreign currency in local transactions. It is best to have the local currency instead of having to convert with individuals on streets or non-tourist areas. Banks in Nicaragua require identification for any currency conversion transactions, it is best to use ATM machines that dispense the local currency. When using ATM machines, take precautions and be aware of your surroundings. Make sure you are in a well-frequented area and ensure that the ATM has not been altered in any way. Some thieves alter ATM machines with chips that can steal credit card numbers and personal information. This type of crime is rare, but an increase in foreign tourism has stimulated the increase of this crime. Make sure that you monitor your credit card or debit card transactions via online banking. Any suspicious transactions should be reported immediately.
 * Traveling around Managua is relatively simple, but as in any major city, exercise basic caution. When traveling to the Mercado Oriental, go in groups and avoid the use of chains, necklaces and other valuables. Although police officers are available in and around the market, the market tends to be very full and thus it can be hard to find any person who steals your valuables. Be cautious around the outskirts of downtown, the area between MetroCentro and the BAC building. Several muggings have occurred around this area. The area around the Tica Bus Station is unsafe for tourists by the Nicaraguan police due to the high volumes of people moving around. If you must go, take a taxi to and from there.
 * When traveling around the city of Managua or around Nicaragua, there are several transportation alternatives. Popular options include buses and taxis, both of which have different rider standards and different precautions.
 * Buses in Nicaragua tend to be old school buses that transport people and goods to market. These are colloquially called Chicken buses. Much like the Argentine collectivo, it uses the honor system on travelers and charges based on the distance one travels. It is relatively the most inexpensive option, allowing tourists to travel to major tourist attractions and other destinations. However, these buses can be extremely crowded and tight in terms of space. An overhead rack tends to be provided for the storage of bags and other items, but keep your bags at hand, in you sight, at all times. If you are carrying something valuable and fear the potential loss of theft of it, put a lock on your bag. Don't carry large sums of money in their pockets. On crowded buses (especially during rush hour), thieves can rob you without you noticing. In addition, do not wear any expensive jewelry on the bus. It can be taken from you without your notice due to the high volumes of passengers that board buses. Buses in local urban and interurban routes are not air-conditioned, so ensure that your window is open (provided you are seated).
 * There are also Express Buses in the form of mini-vans. These buses provide express inter-city transport at a higher price compared to the standard local Chicken Bus. This form of transport is also cost-friendly, but extremely tight in terms of space. Tourists cannot carry any heavy cargo. Small purses and bookbags are fine, but exercise the same caution as you would on a Chicken Bus.
 * When riding taxis, close the windows. Leaving windows open allows you to be robbed while in the car and exposes you to beggars and other service providers. Most tourists consider this a nuisance, and so do locals. Air conditioners do not always work on street-hailed cars. In any case, radio-dispached cars are readily available (particularly from resorts and hotels) and offer the same amenities luxury car services offer at roughly the same price as their North American counterparts.

Embassies
A full directory of foreign embassies is available at the city government's site. While there is no single "diplomatic district" in Managua, many foreign missions are located fairly close to each other in Colinas, a neighborhood of large, well landscaped villas, a few blocks east of the km 8 - km 9 marks on Carretera a Masaya. A few others are around km 4-5 of the same Carretera a Masaya.

Some embassies are listed below, in English alphabetic order:
 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇨🇴 Colombia
 * 🇨🇷 Costa Rica
 * 🇨🇺 Cuba
 * 🇩🇴 Dominican Republic
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇭🇳 Honduras
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇲🇽 Mexico
 * 🇷🇺 Russia
 * 🇪🇸 Spain
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * León - The second largest city in the country, León is the intellectual center of Nicaragua, with the oldest university, largest cathedral and excellent museums. At nearby Cerro Negro, you can experience the thrill of volcano boarding in a moonlike landscape.
 * Granada - Located at the foot of the impressive volcano Mombacho, Granada is the oldest colonial city on the American continent, with beautiful colorful and picturesque buildings and churches. It is situated on Lake Nicaragua, the second largest lake in Latin America, where you can tour of the Granada Isletas archipelago with many tropical birds and monkeys.
 * Masaya - The third largest city in Nicaragua. Masaya is center for indigenous crafts, and it is famous for its artisan market. Just outside the city you will find Volcán Masaya, featuring a smoking, active volcano, were you can watch the crater fumes rise to the sky.
 * Pueblos Blancos - A cluster of indigenous villages in the mountains above Masaya, each with its own artisan specialty. Do not miss San Juan de Oriente, with its famous pottery workshops.
 * La Laguna de Apoyo - An amazing beautiful lagoon that is over 3 km wide at an elevation of 400 meters. The water is crystal clear beneath an impressive 200-m-tall jungle covered volcanic rim. Swimming, sailing, kayaking and scuba diving is recommended.
 * Ometepe - In the center of Lake Nicaragua (19th largest in the world), to grand volcanoes raises impressively over the water, on the island of Ometepe. A beautiful and wonderful place for ecoturism, hiking, horseabck riding, kayaking and swimming, either in the lake or in the crater lake at the top of the Maderas volcano.
 * Caribbean Coast - Daily flights are available to Nicaragua's Atlantic coastline, where tropical reefs and small offshore islands offer a very different view of the country. Highlights are the English speaking city Bluefields, the pristine Pearl Lagoon and the two Corn Islands.
 * Pacific Beaches - For swimming or some of the best surfing on the American continent, head to one of many beaches on the Pacific Coast. The most popular destination is San Juan del Sur, which is surrounded by many unpopulated beaches with world class surfing waves, such as Popoyo, Madera, Majagual and Marsella. Closest to Managua are the beach towns of Masachapa, Pochomil, Pochomil Viejo and Montelimar, the latter being the home of the Montelimar Beach Resort. Further north you find the popular beaches of Las Peñitas and Poneloya, and the more secluded off-the-beaten-track beaches of Aposentillo, Juiqilillo, Padre Ramos and Mechapa.
 * Caribbean Coast - Daily flights are available to Nicaragua's Atlantic coastline, where tropical reefs and small offshore islands offer a very different view of the country. Highlights are the English speaking city Bluefields, the pristine Pearl Lagoon and the two Corn Islands.
 * Estelí and the Northern Highlands - with beautiful mountains, rivers lakes and national parks, ecological coffee farms and the Somoto Canyon.