Malinalco

Malinalco is a fascinating small town in Mexico State that is a popular weekend destination for people from Mexico City and Cuernavaca. It is a very old community famous for its Aztec temples, its colonial era small town feel with several historic churches, its natural scenery with mountains and valleys, and for the nearby village of Chalma with its church that houses a famous "black christ" figure that is a magnet for religious pilgrims and those seeking divine intervention. Malinalco is known for its shamans and a reputation for black magic. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.

Understand
Malinalco is ancient. Archaeologists have found potsherds and signs of human occupation dating back to 1800 BC, but the area was sparsely populated until the Classic area (roughly around the 10th century). The archaeological site at Malinalco is quite young by Mexican standards, focusing on Aztec constructions from the late 15th century right up until the day the Spaniards marched in and informed the local indigenous population that they now had the honor of serving the Spanish crown. The Aztec structures were built to honor the eagle warriors and jaguar warriors.

Aztec mythology says that Malinalco was settled when a nomadic tribe stumbled into an argument between the god Huitzilopochtil and his sister Malinalxochitl. Huitzilopochtil was irritated with his sister, so in the middle of the night, he left the encampment along with most of the nomadic people. In the morning, Malinalxochitl discovered that she'd been abandoned with the smaller group of nomads. These people became known as the Matlazlincans, who then occupied the land.

Historically, groups of Toltec and Otomi moved into the area at various points in history. There is evidence they paid tribute to Tula, and in 1476, they were conquered by the Aztec army of Axayacatl. The Aztec dominated the region until the conquest.

Although different religious orders were present in Malinalco at various points in the colonial era, the enduring imprint was made by the Augustinians who evangelized the community beginning in 1537 and who built a large convent and several smaller churches and chapels in Malinalco and its surrounding villages. The most significant of these churches are the Church of the Divine Savior in the town of Malinalco and the Sanctuary of Chalma.

The town is situated in a river valley, giving it a sense of isolation. Just over 6,500 people live in the town of Malinalco (2015), with several thousand more in nearby villages.

By bus
From Mexico City, it's about an hour by bus to Malinalco. Flecha Roja has several buses daily departing from the Observatorio bus terminal. Tickets start at M$120.



By car
From Toluca, take federal highway MEX 55 south toward Tenancingo. Turn east toward Joquicingo, continue past the town to the site.

From Mexico City, take federal highway MEX 95 about 25 km until you see the sign for Xochicalco Ruinas. Take that turn and continue 7 km past Xochicalco to the town of Miacatlan. Look for signs to Malinalco, it is a dirt road but in good condition. It is about 20 km from Miacatlan to Malinalco.

Get around
The town is compact and easily walkable and the archaeological site is a short distance from the town center. You'll want to use a taxi to visit the village of Chalma. Taxis are usually found at the sitio next to the zócalo.

See






Festivals

 * Feast Day of the Patron Saint of Malinalco (Festejos del Divino Salvador) - first week of August, festivities include the famous parade of the mojigangas (costumed characters), along with food, dancing, music, and carnival attractions

Water parks
Natural hot springs are found in the town of Malinalco and several of the surrounding villages that make up its municipality (including Chalma). Spas provide pampering and several water parks provide wet family fun. The water parks, called balnearios, range from older, more modest parks with several hot water swimming pools to elaborate water theme parks that include water slides, wave pools, lazy rivers and similar attractions.

Buy

 * Tianguis - Sunday is market day in Malinalco with vendors setting up around the zócalo around 08:00 or 09:00.

Eat
Several restaurants are located in the historic center area in the town of Malinalco, within a few blocks of the zocalo. Many hotels also have on-site restaurants. Many street food vendors are located near the Chalma Sanctuary.

Sleep
The best selection of hotels, and most of the boutique B&Bs, are in the town of Malinalco. Camping and glamping areas are found throughout the area. Lodging options close to the Chalma Sanctuary cater to pilgrims, who are usually on low to no budget, and may be a good choice for backpackers.

Go next

 * Tenancingo
 * Toluca
 * Cuernavaca