M'Hamid

M'Hamid is a small village in Zagora region of Morocco, 98 km after Zagora, one of the two places in Morocco where Sahara begins (another is Merzouga). It is "the end of the road" (the last point of the route national N°9), after it is only sands of Sahara, shepherds and caravan trails.

Understand
M'Hamid gets fewer visitors than Merzouga and therefore is less touristy. However, it is also more remote and therefore overall more expensive, while in Merzouga the dunes are right next to the village. M'Hamid is about 7-8 hr by car from Marrakech and 5 hr from Ourzazate.

M'Hamid is next to the last major oasis one encounters on the way south into the greater Sahara. The area was historically important as the site (Sidi Khalil) where trade caravans gathered (some as large as 5,000 camels) before setting off to Timbuktu and other destinations. Little of its interesting history is to be found on websites or in tourist guide books, but knowledgeable locals share the facts and stories with pride and a touch of melancholy.

M'Hamid is also known as Bounou, once a thriving village made out of a mix of local Ait Atta berbers, Local drawa, and local Hassani tribes. The villages of Oulad Youssef, Oulad Mhaya and Ezouaya, amongst others, are scattered throughout the oasis. Local people get around on foot but small motorbikes are very popular too. Donkey carts are in widespread use for transporting goods.

The environment is harsh and fragile. You are urged to appreciate how scarce water is in the town. In the past taps went dry by early afternoon on many days. Despite this and to the severe frustration of locals, a number of the hotels have swimming pools. Choose wisely where you invest your money... it seems more sensible to head to the Moroccan coast if you are keen for a swim, desert temperatures notwithstanding.

Erg Chegaga
Erg Chegaga (or Chigaga) is one of the largest and most impressive sand dune systems in the Moroccan Sahara Desert. It is about 50 km west of M'Hamid, near the southeastern end of the Draa Valley. Erg Chegaga covers an area of around 35 km, with some dunes reaching heights of up to 60 m (almost 200 feet). The vast expanse of sand dunes, which can change shape and location due to wind and weather, creates a stunning and ever-changing landscape.

The Erg Chegaga dunes are less frequented by tourists than the more famous Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga, offering a more authentic and remote desert experience. The dunes are especially popular for those seeking the quintessential Sahara experience, with its breathtaking sunsets, starry night skies, and traditional Berber camps.

The best time to visit Erg Chegaga is during the cooler months, from October to April, when daytime temperatures are more comfortable for exploring the dunes. Night-time temperatures can drop significantly, so it's essential to dress appropriately and bring warm layers.

By bus
You can take a CTM bus from Casablanca, Marrakech, or any city along the N9 road (Ouarzazate, Zagora, Tagounite). From Ouarzazate the trip is 80 dirham; from Marrakech it is 160-190 dirham. CTM leaves from Marrakech at around 11:15 and from Ouarzazate at 16:00 and arrives M'hamid around 21:45 (as of Mar 2017). M'Hamid is listed by the CTM as "Lamhamid Ghozlane". Other bus companies include Supratours, and Voyages Farah.

By car
There is an asphalt road to M'Hamid so you can reach the village from Ouarzazate by virtually any car. The trip from Ouarzazate is memorable, passing through small villages, the regional center of Zagora, and over a pass into the open desert.

Get around
M'Hamid is a small town that is easily explored by foot.

See
There is a mosque in town, but as with the rest of Morocco, is not open to non-Muslims. A kasbah is about 2 km away on the road out of town (take a left at the mosque). The kasbah is inhabited by black Africans who came from Mali many years ago.

Do
The main thing people come to M'Hamid for is trips to desert to see the. Getting out is basically what one does in M'Hamid. Camping in the desert, trekking and expeditions to the high dunes are very popular. You can do them overnight or for several days, by camel, 4x4, motor bike or quad bike. If you plan to take two activities in desert, consider starting with a less intensive experience and proceeding to a more adventurous. Overnight trips can be arranged by many outfitters in M'Hamid.

Buy
Markets on Mondays: vegetables and fruits brought from other regions by camels.

Besides that, nothing special with typical tourist shops selling mediocre carpets and usual stuff.

Eat and drink
There are no bars in M'Hamid. It is a very conservative town that strictly observes local laws banning alcohol.

Ensure that you carry sufficient supplies of food and water if venturing into the desert.

Camping
Most tourist companies working in town offer tent rental for your own trip to desert.

Cope
There are numerous begging children in the village, presumably thanks to many tourists arriving directly from the airport to M'Hamid to spend large sums on 4x4 treks.

Go next
Nowhere ... "end of the road" as mentioned at the beginning. Enjoy!