Lviv

Lviv (also spelled L'viv; Ukrainian: Львів; Polish: Lwów, German: Lemberg, Russian: Львов), formerly known as Lvov after its Russian name, is in Western Ukraine and used to be the capital of East Galicia. It's the biggest city of the region and a major Ukrainian cultural centre on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There is useful website for tourists visiting Lviv: lviv.travel.

Understand
The city has a multicultural history but little of the evidence of this has survived until today. It was founded in 1256 by King Daniel of Galicia (Ukrainian: Король Данило Галицький - Korol' Danylo Galyckyy) and fell under Polish control in the 14th century. Poles, Jews, Ukrainians, Germans and others lived there together for centuries. This multicultural experience virtually came to an end during and after WWII. Germans, with the help of Ukrainian collaborators, killed most of the Jews (about one third of Lviv's population at that time) and Poles. At the end and in the direct aftermath of the war, the remaining Polish population (about 65% of the population) was then "repatriated" to Poland in its new borders by the Soviet government. The Polish and Jewish heritage is hardly preserved, but one can find some inscriptions on former shops in Polish, Yiddish and German.

Because of Lviv's proximity to the EU and its openness to foreigners, the city's multicultural feel has experienced a resurgence. Even today, walking through the city centre, a traveller can hear Poles laughing and taking pictures of the beautiful old buildings, Germans walking through the city on guided tours, Ukrainian or Russian tourists and students joking about this or that, and American or British businessmen chatting in cafes. There is even a small Jewish community in the city. The many universities in Lviv attract students from every continent on the globe, and its old architecture draws tourists from various parts of the world, including Ukraine.

The Polish king John II Casimir founded the Lviv University in the 17th century and Lviv (known as Lwów) was by that time one of the most important cities in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, along with Kraków, Warsaw, Gdańsk and Vilnius.

In 1772 the city was taken by the Habsburgs, and in Austrian times it was known as Lemberg, the capital of Galicia. After the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, it was returned to Poland.

As a result of World War II, Stalin moved the Soviet frontier westward so Lviv became part of the USSR under its Russian name Lvov (still widely used by supporters of Russia, but very offensive to most locals). After Ukrainian independence in 1991, the Ukrainian name of Lviv was gradually adopted in English.

Lviv is the region of Ukraine with the strongest sense of Ukrainian identity. Even when it was part of the Soviet Union, most signs were only in Ukrainian, and only a few also in Russian. Because of its history as part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Lviv has a Central European flair in its architecture that makes it one of the most beautiful cities in Eastern Europe, and also has a Catholic majority, unlike most of majority-Eastern-Orthodox Ukraine. Lviv has even been called "the capital of Ukrainian culture". The people there are very warm, although somewhat direct (which is very common in eastern Slavic cultures).

Since slightly before the Euro 2012 soccer tournament, the city has become more and more tourist-friendly. All downtown street signs are now in both Ukrainian and English, and the staff of the Information Center on Rynok Square speak many different languages. Maps, schedules of local events, and tourist guides can be obtained there for free in English, German, Polish, and Russian. There are even small information kiosks beside some monuments (small touch-screen TVs that offer maps and information about the city). Visiting Lviv is very rewarding for the pioneer traveller, as living is extremely cheap here and the place has a truly authentic feeling, unlike places like Kraków or Prague, which are swamped with tourists.

By plane
The closest operating airport is in Rzeszów:

By train


There are multiple daily trains, including several overnight options, from Kyiv, Odesa and many other Ukrainian cities with Ukrzaliznytsia. International trains arrive from Polish cities such as Gdansk, Kraków, Przemyśl and Warsaw. There are also trains from Chop, at the border with Hungary. For more information see here.



By car
For more information see Western_Ukraine

From Poland: take the, this will end at the city centre. Formalities at the border take at least one hour. There will be a long line for trucks, which you can pass if you travel by car. Don't expect the border police to treat you respectfully, or speak any language other than Ukrainian, Polish or Russian. In fact, expect the very opposite regarding both.

It is also illegal to drive in the city centre (including Prospekt Svobody) on Sundays and holidays. This is signposted in Cyrillic only, and there are always police present to catch some unsuspecting foreigner.

By public transport
Lviv has a convenient public transport system:


 * 8 tram routes
 * 10 trolleybus routes
 * 18 bus routes
 * 31 marshrutka routes

Single ride tickets in trams, trolleybuses, buses and marshrutki cost 20 грн if paying by cash, 15 грн if paying with an NFC-enabled credit card or smartphone, or 13 грн if paying with a public transport card.

Monthly travel passes are available for 420 грн.

Passes can be used in trams and trolleybuses.

Schedules are available on the map and on rozklad.in.ua (in Ukrainian).

You can also check information about public transport on DozoR (in Ukrainian), EasyWay and Google Maps.

By taxi
Taxi is the easiest way of getting around the city. Some popular taxi companies include:



By scooter
Kick scooter is a funny way to shorten your time while getting around the city.



By bike
There are more than 100 km of infrastructure for bicycles in Lviv. While you can use your own bike, you can also rent one using one of the following companies:



Do

 * Attend a concert or festival. L'viv has been called the "Queen of Festivals" as a city, because there is often a different festival every other week. Some festivals with many free activities are the Chocolate Festival, the Coffee Festival, and the Alpha Jazz Festival. Stop by the Tourist Information Center on Rynok Square to find out more about what festivals are happening during your stay in L'viv.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.
 * Visit the Bania, a Russian-style sauna for men and women (non-communal). There are a few in L'viv and well worth the trip. The experience can be mildly confronting for the prudish Westerner, as all activities are conducted in the nude but don't worry, it is a highly civilized environment.

Money
For more information on currency see here

ATMs (known as "bankomats") and currency exchanges ("obmin valyuti") are ubiquitous throughout Lviv, particularly in the city center. Most ATMs will accept Visa and MasterCard. Currency exchanges will often only accept foreign currency in pristine condition. Travellers' checks are not very useful in Lviv; however, there are still a few hotels and banks that will cash them for you.

Credit cards are now widely accepted in many of the city center restaurants, cafes, hotels and some hostels. Also at the main bus station and long distance train station. Surprisingly, lots of small grocery stores now also accept plastic.

Attempting to pay for something inexpensive with a large denomination (50 грн and above) will often at the very least annoy the shopkeeper; salespeople may even refuse to sell to you if you do not have any smaller denominations. Grocery stores and other high-volume shops are an exception to this rule.

Budget
Life in Lviv is very cheap. It's not difficult to find a place where you can have a full meal for 80 грн. The challenge is rather ordering if you don't speak Ukrainian.

Splurge

 * Veronica, on the Shevchenko Prospect is both a French style cafe (upstairs) and stylish restaurant downstairs.
 * Veronica, on the Shevchenko Prospect is both a French style cafe (upstairs) and stylish restaurant downstairs.
 * Veronica, on the Shevchenko Prospect is both a French style cafe (upstairs) and stylish restaurant downstairs.

Bars

 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.
 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.
 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.
 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.
 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.
 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.
 * Franz Josef The twilight zone. 24-hour outdoor freak show. See the local intelligentsia acting rather unintelligent.

Clubs
The club scene in Lviv is thriving; with many options ranging from the cavernous clubs Metro and Millenium to the intimate and upmarket Zanzibar. There are usually entry charges but drink prices more than make up for this. In most clubs you are able to buy bottles of vodka for a reasonable price and simply chill at a table all evening.

Sleep
Lviv has a variety of hotels, hostels and apartments to suit all budgets and needs. The best deals for budget travellers (2-3 people) are found with the lovely apartments for rent all over town. These can be found online (preferably in Russian) or on arrival at the train station. Expect to pay around 6,000-8,000 грн/month for a nice studio apartment with a kitchen, TV and a nice warm-water bathroom.

Budget
The hostel scene is quite new in L'viv so be sure to check reviews of hostels using well known booking agents and forums.

Connect
The dialing code for Lviv is +380 32(2). The telephone system has been modified; thus, to dial 6-digit numbers, use the city prefix 322, but for 7-digit numbers, use only 32.

All calls to and from cell phones are treated as long distance calls. The telephone system was modified one more time, thus, you must not dial an 8 followed by the city/mobile prefix, followed by the phone number. Some frequent mobile prefixes are 050, 067, 066, 096, and 097. The main mobile operators are Kyivstar, MTS, and Life. You can buy a SIM card or a balance replenishment card at many stores throughout Lviv.

Internet cafes are plentiful. Centrally located is Chorna Medeia on Kryva Lypa.

Almost all restaurants and cafes provide free Wi-Fi, staff will typically provide a password on request.



Consulates

 * Consulates-General:
 * 🇨🇿 Czech Republic
 * 🇵🇱 Poland


 * Honorary consulates:
 * 🇦🇹 Austria
 * 🇧🇾 Belarus
 * 🇧🇪 Belgium
 * 🇧🇷 Brazil
 * 🇧🇬 Bulgaria
 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇭🇺 Hungary
 * 🇮🇱 Israel
 * 🇰🇿 Kazakhstan
 * 🇱🇻 Latvia
 * 🇱🇹 Lithuania
 * 🇲🇩 Moldova
 * 🇳🇱 Netherlands
 * 🇰🇷 South Korea

Stay safe
Ukrainian cities are not dangerous, though a bit more precaution is required. Common tricks include impersonating a police officer. In doubt ask an officer or tell him you're not following him. The first thing they try is to get you out of the tourists places in to areas where they can 'acquire' a fine.

Open robbery happens less as the risks are bigger. However, pick-pockets operate in the historical center, so keep an eye on your belongings.

Cope
It can be very helpful to learn some Ukrainian before visiting, or at least the Cyrillic alphabet. Everyone can also read, speak and write in Russian, although they'd appreciate that you learnt a few basic phrases in Ukrainian as well. German and, especially, Polish (as Lviv used to part of Poland) is spoken well among people with mature memories of the interwar era. Especially if you speak Polish surviving in Lviv shouldn't be a problem, as many people understand it since it's quite close to Ukrainian.

People selling you tickets at the train station might not speak anything other than Ukrainian or Russian and may not have any patience or sympathy for you. Queues in Ukraine tend to be a chaotic mess, especially at stations. Assert your place with an elbow and mean stare, because everyone else will, including the 15 babushki pushing you to the side. Make sure you get in the line for foreigners when you want to buy train tickets. The cashier might not speak English, but if you know the details of the train you want, just write them down!

Go next

 * Kyiv
 * Odesa
 * The Carpathian Mountains and their accompanying ski resorts are good for a day trip
 * Lutsk
 * Rivne
 * Transylvania, Romania: To go south, take a bus to Chernivtsi (a bumpy 6½- hour ride, or you can take one of overnight trains). Near Chernivtsi, you can visit the lovely Kamianets-Podilskyi with its ancient castle. The bus to Suceava takes around 4 hours with border formalities. The buses from Suceava to Bacau and finally to Braşov take about 4 hours apiece on very bumpy roads.