Luxor/West Bank

The West Bank of Luxor in Egypt is also the gateway to the amazing Valley of the Kings, and a string of pharaonic mortuary temples vies with the richly-decorated Tombs of the Nobles and the workmen's village, Deir el-Medineh, for the visitors’ attention.

Understand
The West Bank is, archaeologically, the lushest paradise on this planet; the East Bank ties with Saqqara in second place, unanimously, among Egyptologists at least. The vast majority of visitors to Luxor tend to stay on the East Bank, which is the busy Egyptian city. The West Bank has a more relaxed vibe, and has a good selection of accommodations and restaurants.

Entrance and tickets
Most sights, tombs and areas have an entrance fee of LE40-80. And as usual, students get 50% off. If you intend to visit all archaeological sights, you would end up paying around LE1,000, not to mention the inexplicable LE1,200 for the Tomb of Nefertari, the LE1,000 for the Tomb of Seti II, and LE250 for Tomb of Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings (Jan 2019). Alternatively you can opt for a Luxor Pass costing US$200, which allows entrance to all Luxor sights during 5 consecutive days.

If you are on a tight budget, however, a fair share of sights can also be explored from the outside for free without entering them but still having a decent picture, namely when hiking around the area&mdash;see a potential itinerary below. There are many closed tombs in the Tombs of Nobles area that are interesting to see, because often they allow a sneak through the gate&mdash;just walk around. Furthermore, the hill between the Tombs of Nobles and the large mountain range offers great views of the area, Ramesseum and the Temple of Hatshepsut. You just have to get into the Tombs of Nobles area, either directly from Deir el Medineh, directly from Deir el-Bahari, somewhere along the main road or with a single ticket to any of its tombs from the dedicated carpark/entrance.

is on the left at the end of the straight main road coming from the ferry port, right when you enter the archaeological area. Except for the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens and Deir el-Bahari, you will have to get your tickets there.

Get in

 * See the Luxor page for getting to the Luxor area.

From the airport
Taxis are the only reasonable option. It is easy to find them when you arrive. If you are unused to bargaining, it is better to arrange a pick-up in advance with your accommodation. But this will most likely neither give you a better deal. Expect to pay LE50-100 depending on your bargaining skills for the 20-km ride.

From the train station
Taxis are available but, if on a budget and if you're reasonably mobile, it is a short walk to the ferry jetty from the railway station. Walk straight up al-mahatta and then round the tip of the Temple of Luxor to get there. A taxi ride from the station to the jetty should run to about LE10. Hotels on the West Bank are all within easy reach of the jetty.

By ferry from the East Bank
By far the quickest, most authentic and romantic manner of crossing the Nile to the west is by ferry or motor launch.



Get around
The West Bank's archaeological sites are spread out.

By taxi
In summer the temperature varies from hot to extremely hot. So, the easiest way to get around is by hiring a taxi for the day. This will set you back about LE250 from the West Bank, depending on your ability to haggle (Oct 2018). For a return trip to a particular site the price should not be more than LE100 for a minibus that takes up to 9 people. If your negotiation skills are reasonable, it is cheaper to hire a taxi by yourself, if not, you'll save yourself a lot of grief by asking your hotel to arrange one. In either event, bargain a bit because in Egypt the first price is always on the high side.

There are many tuk tuks as well, which charge a little less than standard taxis.

By tour
Many accommodations offer organised tours with a driver from the accommodation to and between the major archaeological sites. However, their schedule is quite tight and fixed. They will not appreciate any effort by their passengers to change the pre-defined tour, schedule and visiting times, mostly only 20 min at a site. They will also sometimes try to spend 30 min at a souvenir shop of their choice to get commission. In addition, you may be expected to visit and pay for a sight, even though you might not be interested in it. Such inexpensive tours start at LE50 per person. But if you find 4 people in your hostel or hotel, the taxi might be the more convenient option.

By bicycle
Bicycles are available for rent at hotels (LE10-20) and beyond the ferry jetty on the West Bank (LE30-40). In summer, be aware that the heat can be quite intense and the bikes tend to be primitive. Carry plenty of water. However, with a bicycle, you cannot walk much around, like between Deir el Medineh, the Valley of Nobles and the Temple of Hatshepsut.

By micro bus
Regular micro buses leave from the ferry to Gurna. If you can find your way onto one you'll get there on the cheap for LE2. The sites are usually 0.5 to 1 km away from the main road so you'll have to walk to get there.

On foot
Once you get to the archaeological area, by taxi or mini bus, it is possible, if likely tiresome, to hike the area at the foot of the mountains. There are small police stations along the hill tops. They should not hassle hikers.

If it is too much hassle to find transport from the ferry port area, walk the 3.5 km from there to Medinet Habu. In the early morning the weather is nicer and there will be many balloons flying over; you will pass green cultivation areas, and after them, the Colossi of Memnon and the remains of the Amenhotep III temple that once stood behind them, a pleasant and educative walk.

From the ticket office to the Valley of the Kings, you would rather use a taxi or tuk tuk.

It is no longer possible to hike up the mountain to the Valley of the Kings. Any such attempt will be prevented by the local police officers paying close attention.

See
It's a place of the Theban Necropolis, which was used for ritual burials for much of the Pharaonic period, especially during the New Kingdom. One of its most remarkable parts - the burial place of most of the pharaohs of Egypt of the New Kingdom - described in a separate article.







Dra' Abu el-Naga'
The necropolis of is just by the entrance of the dry bay that leads up to Deir el-Bahri, and north of the necropolis of el-Assasif. It was probably used as a royal Necropolis for the kings of the 17th Dynasty, and contains the possible tomb of Amenhotep I, Tomb ANB. It was also used as a cemetery for officials of the New Kingdom administration in Thebes.



Do

 * Hike the hills and area at the bottom of the mountains, between the temples, tombs and sights.
 * Hot air balloon rides over Valley of the Kings see Luxor.
 * If you are on a tight budget and just want to hike around and take some pictures (from the outside) consider the following route (6 km): Medinet Habu, Deir el Medineh, Tombs of Nobles (directly or with any single ticket to the tombs), Temple of Hatshepsut, Ramesseum (from the road).

Buy
Souvenirs, alabaster, perfume, etc.

Stay safe

 * Carry plenty of water, wear sensible shoes and a hat, strongly consider sunscreen. The West Bank is too amazing to be spent in pain and discomfort, and bring a torch as some of the tombs are quite dark.
 * Hiking up and down the mountain was an issue in the past and some travelers slipped along the way up or down the Valley of the Kings. This is not permitted anymore. However, take care when ascending any other things, which are far less solid than used to in Europe.
 * Do not use a credit card as some shops are masters at fraud. You may get your money back at home, but best to use cash and bargain.

Cope
The sites in Luxor are nothing short of spectacular. So, it is best to be organized.
 * A flashlight! It is dark in the tombs and the lights don't always work either because they don't or because the caretaker can't be bothered with turning them on.
 * Plenty of small notes and coins. Parting with LE1 notes/coins is almost the cost of being a tourist in Egypt and can magically open 'closed' tombs, light up dark chambers, or get rid of a particularly pesky tout.
 * Each of the tombs has a guardian who will let you in, show you around, tell you that photos aren't permitted, but he'll look the other way for a little bakhsheesh. Some will be happy if you slip them LE10 or 20, others will pester you for more if you "only" give them LE50. The guardians are paid very little as almost anybody in Africa, but tips are at your discretion.
 * Water is available outside most of the sites but not always readily available inside. However, it is advisable to take enough water with you. At the Temple of Hatshepsut, the cafe will gladly sell you a soft drink for LE50, but that also allows you to sit the only shade available. Drink sellers in the bazaar by the ticket office will charge LE20.
 * If you don't know Osiris from Anubis, it might be a good idea to read up a bit before you go. Otherwise, you'll wonder what the fuss is all about.