Lucca

Lucca is a city of some 90,000 people (2017) in Tuscany. Its long history goes back to Etruscan and Ancient Roman times, and the city retains pieces of ancient architecture. Lucca's heyday was in the Gothic era just before the Renaissance, and the city contains much marvellous architecture from that era. Lucca remained an independent city state until the end of the 18th century. Giacomo Puccini, one of the best-known opera composers, was born in Lucca, and his house is visited by many opera-lovers every year.

Understand
The area of most interest to visitors is still enclosed within the old city's defensive walls. The top of these broad walls is a ring park, a pleasant place for walking.



Get in
Rail and road links provide easy access from nearby Pisa and Florence.

By plane
Pisa Galileo Galilei International Airport is 2 km south of Pisa. Flights from most large cities are available daily, and from major airports several per day. Car hire is available from all the major providers.

There's a direct "Viabus" from the airport to Lucca, one hour; buy your tickets (€4) beforehand at the kiosk within the arrivals hall. Otherwise take the "Pisamover" light railway to Pisa Centrale, and change there for trains to Lucca.

Viabus 11 calls at Florence Airport on its way to Florence Santa Maria Novella.

By train
The is just south of the old town walls. Deposit luggage at the Tourist Center just outside.

Trains from Pisa Centrale run every 30 minutes. Lucca is also on the main line from Viareggio to Florence Santa Maria Novella, so there is a direct train at least hourly from both cities.

By bus
The main local operator is Viabus, with regular runs to Pisa, Florence and Barga. The is at Piazzale Verdi, just inside the walls west side of the old town.

By car
Driving inside the walls is mostly reserved to residents, so park your car (there are car parks outside the walls and a couple inside, accessible by non-residents) and rent a bike. Several bicycle rental locations can be found near the north entrance to the city, Porta Santa Maria, near Porta San Pietro and walking from Porta Elisa towards the center. It is not a large city within the walls, so you may find it more enjoyable to simply walk around.

The city has many car parks outside the wall; the largest two are on the North and South side. The A11 (E76) Runs from the coastal A12(E80) Autostrada across towards Firenze.

Get around
On foot: the old city is compact.

By bike: hardly necessary for the old city, but helpful if you've edge of town accommodation. Hire bikes from the Tourist Center at the railway station. Rental bikes ranging from 2-6 people are available for rent to travel around the circumference and within Lucca.

By bus: little navetti potter through the streets: a map of their nine routes is available at Vaibus. The only one you're likely to use is #11 from railway station to bus station, and #12 in the other direction. Last buses are at 20:00. As for other Italian buses, buy your ticket at any tobacconist, and cancel it when you board. A single ticket is €1.

See



 * Lucca has many old churches, some of which now house art galleries.

Do



 * Puccini opera & recitals: The composer Puccini (1858-1924) was born and grew up in Lucca. His works are regularly performed here throughout the year. From 1891 he lived at Torre del Lago on the coast 20 km west, and built a villa there; the annual Puccini festival is held nearby. In 1921 a peat works polluted the neighbourhood so he moved to neighbouring Viareggio. is nowadays a museum and he's buried in the chapel there.



Buy
The main shopping street is Via Fillungo which runs roughly north/south through the centre of the city. It has a mix of high to mid-range shops selling a range of Italian designer labels such as Missoni, Armani, Max Mara, etc.



Eat
Only in Lucca you can find a special sweet-bread in shape of a small baguette or a bun. It's called Buccellato and it has raisins inside and has a unique taste of anise. You can find it in a small shop called Taddeucci, behind Saint Michael's church in the main square.

Drink
It is safe to drink the water that comes out of the public fountains. Many locals fill gallon jugs and it is their primary source of drinking water. It is delicious and quite refreshing. In fact, it tastes better than most bottled water.

The digestive tonic China Massagli is produced at the Farmacia Massagli in Lucca. This is an eminent example of the "china" style of amaro (Italian potable bitters). If you ask for an "amaro locale" at a restaurant, this is likely what you will receive.

Biadina is another local style of bitters, bottled by Massagli and other producers; this drink is often sold with a small pack of pine nuts.

Compared to Florence or Siena, there is relatively little late night activity on the streets of old Lucca. The San Colombano, on top of the walls, overlooking the train station, the Betty Blue (near piazza Santa Maria), the Rewine near San Michele and the Cupido and McCulloughs, outside the walls near the station are some of the bars open late, especially in the summer.

Most locals tend to make the short trip to Viareggio on the coast, which offers a far better selection of clubs, such as 7 Apples and La Canniccia.

Sleep
It's the opposite of Florence: budget to mid-range places cluster in or near the old walled city. Splurge places are a few km out in the Tuscan countryside, and you'll need wheels.

Budget
Places within walking distance of the railway station and available at less than €50 a night include:
 * Hotel Eurostars Toscana, 2 km south at intersection wioth Autostrada
 * Corte de Templari 2 km southwest on Via Perduta
 * B&B La Colonna in old town
 * B&B Relais Puccini, west outside Porta S Donato

Go next

 * Pisa is an easy day-trip by train. For sights around the leaning tower, get off at Pisa San Rossore which is only 400 m west of it, while Pisa Centrale is 1.5 km south.
 * Florence is also an easy day-trip, much better done by train (90 min) even if you have a car.
 * Garfagnana is a hilly, forested area north of Lucca, with the historic small town of Barga.
 * Versilia is where the glitterati come to the seaside.