Luang Namtha



Luang Namtha (ຫຼວງນໍ້າທາ, ຫລວງນໍ້າທາ Louangnamtha, Luang Nam Tha) is the largest city in Luang Nam Tha Province, Northern Laos. It lies on the banks of the Nam Tha River, and the meaning of the name is "The area (luang) around the Tha River (nam Tha)".

Understand
Best known as a stopover point on the backpacker trail from China to Laos, and as an alternative to the long and cramped boat journey between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha has become increasingly popular as a starting point for hill tribe treks, especially those into the Luang Namtha National Protected Area (NPA).

While short on jaw-dropping sights, it's a compact and fairly pleasant little town, albeit one divided in two parts: the "old" or original town near the airport (bombed out by the US in the 1970s), and the "new" or replacement town to the north where the trekking companies, banks, government offices and most guesthouses can be found. The two are about 6 km apart. The "old" town, now considered as a village within the district, sits astride Hwy 3, the modern route from China to Thailand. The "new" and de facto town is on Hwy 17A, which serves to connect Muang Sing, 7 km away from the Hwy 3 and the bus station.

By plane
Shared tuk-tuks wait outside for arriving flights and will take you to anywhere in town for 10,000 (more often, 20,000) kip.

By train
A high speed standard gauge train runs each morning from Vientiane via Phonhong, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Muang Xay, taking 3 hours to Luang Namtha and continuing to Boten on the border with China, returning south shortly after midday. Because of Covid, as of Dec 2021 no trains cross the border: the nearby road crossing remains open but there are onerous restrictions on travellers, especially non-citizens. The high speed line continues north to Kunming but the Chinese timetable has not been published. A later train plies between Vientiane and Luang Prabang but doesn't go further north.

By bus
The bus station for destinations inside the province is on the main road west of the main guesthouse strip. The old bus station across from the market has now been demolished to make way for a luxury hotel, and the main bus station for destinations further afield is now an inconvenient 10 km out of town. A tuk-tuk should cost about 10,000 kip per person or 20,000 kip if you're alone.

Buses for Huay Xai, on the Mekong River at the Thai border, leave at 09:00 and 12:30 and cost 55,000 kip. Tickets can be bought from 07:30, and the journey takes only four hours due to improved road conditions, and you can therefore make it into Thailand on the same day. If you want to be assured of a seat, tickets can be bought in town the day before at the travel agent across from Green Discovery Treks for 75,000 kip including tuk-tuk to the bus station. Like all bus travel in Laos, tickets bought at the bus station always have priority as for seating. The tuk-tuk leaves the travel agent at 08:00. Alternatively, you can hire a minibus and ride comfortably Luang Namtha in 3–4 hours for 120,000 kip/person.

Trips to Luang Prabang take 8–12 hours, depending on road conditions, and costs 100,000 kip (leaves at 09:00) (in town, sold for 130,000 kip), 130,000 kip for minivan (11 seater) (leaves at around 08:30 or when everyone gets on board) and 110,000 kip for the (supposedly faster) VIP bus (22 seat version) (if running, at both 09:00 and 14:30) (in town, sold for 140,000 kip). While the 10,000 kip fare from the new bus station to the main town centre appears non-negotiable, the fare from the town centre to the new bus station can be negotiated for multiple passengers. The bus station booking office (at the new bus station) sells tickets in the afternoon for the following day. In Laos, it is wise to pre-purchase tickets to be more sure of a seat.

The roads from Luang Namtha to Luang Prabang are in poor to fair shape with numerous potholes along the way. The bus stops at the Oudomxay bus station for lunch. Most bus drivers stop every couple of hours to check brakes, etc. At these times passengers can find a bush for bladder relief. The journey is not for the faint-hearted during the rainy season with the bus squeezing and weaving across roads collapsed due to the landslides. In parts, the scenery is fantastic. Like all buses in Laos, the earlier you arrive, the better choice of seat (try for at least 1 hour before). The alternative is sitting on a plastic stool in the aisle for hours on end, or not being let on. While the Lao accept a bag on a seat as taken, the Chinese do not!

Sometimes they board Luang Prabang passengers on the bus leaving for Vientiane which leaves at 08:30, so its better to go early to the bus station to see which one will it be.

Buses for Vientiane cost 180,000 kip and leave daily at 08:30.

Buses for Bokeo cost 60,000 kip and leave at 09:00 and 12:30.

Buses from Muang Xay (Oudomxay) cost 40,000 kip, take about four hours, and leave daily at 08:30, 12:00, and 14:30.

Buses from Muang Sing leave at 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00 and 15:30, cost 80.000 Kip and take 1–2 hr.

From China


From Jing Hong there is one maxi-bus (comfortable though not a coach) daily (10:40) from the north bus station, stopping en route at the south bus station at 11:00 (choose which is closer to your hotel and buy a ticket a day before, as it usually sells out),¥77. Stops for lunch in Mengla, where one can change yuan to kip (rates are negotiable and are fairly competitive, though check notes as they often pass 1,000 kip for 10,000 kip as they have similar colour). Border crossing requires carrying your baggage into Chinese Customs Hall for scanning. The same bus awaits on the other side of the hall. After ~100 m further driving there is the Lao Visa on Arrival window. After Laos passport control, there are money changers (good rates for selling yuan). Arrival around 17:40 in downtown Luang Namtha. There are 2 BCEL ATMS and 1 LDB ATM in Luang Namtha.

Mengla (China) via Boten it will cost you about ¥46 for a bus to Luang Namtha. The first bus leaves Mengla north bus station at 09:00 and there is another one at 14:30 (Jun 2011). The trip takes 4–5 hours, depending mostly on the length of the border crossing.

Laos visas are available on arrival at the border (US$32 or 320,000 kip or ¥300 for EU/Australian; US$37 for UK citizens; US$44 for Canadians; US$33 for Germans; US$37 for Greeks; free for 15 days for Japanese). Note the poor rate for payment in kip or yuan. Paying in US$ is cheaper.

If going to China, you must arrange your visa in advance (nearest embassy/consulate is in Vientiane or Chiang Mai; as of 2015, there is also a Chinese consulate in Luang Namtha). Agents in Luang Namtha can securely send your passport to the embassy in Vientiane with a turnaround of 3 days for around US$60, perfect if you're going trekking in the meantime. The daily bus leaves around 08:00, costs 60,000 kip to Mengla and 90,000 kip to Jing Hong, you'll want to exchange or use up all your kip before you head off, as exchange rates at the border are variable, and the kip is useless outside Laos.

(In Chinese, especially at the bus station, Luang Namtha may be called "Nan Ta".)

By boat
It was possible to take a boat along the river, all the way from Huay Xai, but there is no scheduled service any more. From Luang Namtha, Boat Landing Guest House/Green Discovery can try to arrange charter boats, at an estimated (but highly variable) price of US$170–400 for a boat that can handle 4-10 passengers. The trip takes two days and requires overnighting in a village along the day (included, but take some backup food if the village dinner is not to your standard).

In the dry season after Nov, the northern parts of the river (towards Luang Namtha) may not be navigable and dams (2015) are being built on the way to Nalae, making this option unavailable in the future.

Get around
Luang Namtha town refers since 2015 to the new town and can be easily covered on foot, but you'll want to hop on a tuk-tuk (10,000 kip) for going to the airport, the bus station, or the pier at the Boat Landing guest house.

You can get a good map of the city at KNT Internet for 3,000 kip and some guesthouses will have a copy of it for free for guests.

You can rent really good mountain bikes at a shop along the main road for 15,000 kip per day or 3,000 kip per hour.

Small semi-auto motorbikes (e.g., Honda Dream copies) are now readily available (especially across from the night market or at Zuela Guesthouse) and should cost about 30,000-50,000 kip per day including helmets and a free map. With a motorbike, you can travel around to visit the many villages around and in Luang Namtha and also see the scenic countryside (e.g., closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka, or Muang Sing).

Trekking
There are several companies offering trekking to the hill tribes in the area as well as nearby Nam Ha Protected Area. At least half a dozen trek agencies are along the main road within a block of the night market. They all offer roughly the same treks: varying numbers of days, visits to different villages, waterfalls, jungle, kayaking, biking, etc. The more people on any given trek, the lower the price. They'll each post out front if they have people signed up for a specific trek, to encourage others to join and lower the price.

Shop around on price though, in addition to the number of people on a trek, the different agencies have different prices for comparable treks. Check where the money goes, whether it is being distributed equitably to local guides, villages, etc. The other differentiating factor seems to be equipment. Some have newer equipment in better shape. For example, some offer sleeping pads in addition to sleeping bags, whereas others just have old sleeping bags that have seen better days.

Haggling is common in Laos so always politely negotiate the price. Some advertised prices are inflated twice. Insist on paying in kip (and not in dollars) as that will give you a better understanding on how the price compares with the costs of the local products and services.

The mountainous jungle scenery in the area is a major attraction. If you are seeking to trek through this type of vegetation, make plain your preference as many treks take hikers generally through the rural landscapes of farmland and rice paddy.



Other
You can also take a tuk-tuk or bicycle and just go independently to some of the villages which are next to the roads and not in the jungle. A mountain-bike rental from a good shop will provide you with a not-to-scale map over villages and a nice waterfall. The surroundings are really pretty to cycle about in.

The quality of bicycling on the road from Luang Namtha to the Chinese border is excellent. The road is completely sealed with little or no traffic along the way. The route from Luang Namtha to Boten round trip is approximately 120 km long and passes through Laotian hill country and rice fields. The grades range from flat to moderate with one 2-km, 10%-grade stretch. Welcomes along the way are great.

With a motorbike, you can travel around to see the beautiful countryside and visit the villages in and around Luang Namtha (e.g., closer to Muang Nalae, Vieng Phouka or Muang Sing). The road to Muang Sing takes about 2 hours and makes for a beautiful journey.

Then there a number of waterfalls to be seen. Close by Namtha town is the Nam Dee waterfall and near Muang Sing is the Gneung Phou Ku Lom waterfall.

There are several herbal saunas in Luang Namtha, the most popular being the one next to the Panda Restaurant, down the lane from the Lao Airlines office. It's a very simple rickety shack, but easy to spot (look for the stove) and equipped with separate male/female saunas, a changing room and lockers. The tourist price is 50,000 kip, with optional massages for 100,000 kip (price December 2023). The newest massage and sauna is down the driveway of Minority Restaurant, the standard is slightly higher than some others.

Last but not least, if you liked what you saw, leave a compliment at the People's Complaint Box in front of city hall!

Buy
Money: There are two banks and one post office offering change for cash and travellers' cheques, all in the main street the bank next to the tourism office change travellers for 3% commission (minimum of US$3). Banque pour le Commerce Exterieur Laos (BCEL) has an ATM, but all-too-often, patrons complain of non-delivery of the cash. BCEL ATMs have a 20,000 kip ATM service charge (which is one of the lowest in the country) and low transaction limit (1,500,000 kip).

The biggest supermarket of Luang Namtha offering everything from food over laundry detergent to digital SLR cameras is hidden in the second street parallel to the main street west of the nightmarket.

There are three sisters of the Akha tribe who travel from Muang Sing every day to sell their crafts and agricultural products (opium and ganja) to falang. They are difficult to get rid of, and may follow you around town. Enjoy a bilingual conversation with them, it's great fun.

Eat


Eating options in Luang Namtha are decent, but pretty much all restaurants serve the same menu of Lao, Thai, and ersatz Western dishes at the same prices.

The night market is a good choice if you want to try something new after being on pad Thai and sticky rice for a while. Lao market traders are learning that Westerners readily buy their prepared meals, and so there is an option to supplement household income (when the rice paddy isn't otherwise consuming their time). The range on offer runs from soups, laab, BBQ chicken, beer, good Lao coffee, and various fruits. During daytime, the good Lao food is always on offer at the normal daytime market (opposite songthaew bus station). Fried banana with coconut, 1,000 kip; corn on the cob, 500 kip; fruit shake, 5,000 kip; noodle soup, 5,000 kip; ready-made dishes, 5,000 kip



Drink
Luang Nam Tha is not a party town. Places must close by 23:00, but it's easy to find a cold Beerlao.



Connect
There are a few Internet cafes along the main guesthouse strip charging 200 kip per minute. Internet speeds vary. Many guesthouses and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi.

Go next
There is a bus station about 10 km south of the city centre It is readily accessible by tuk-tuk and should cost about 100,000 kip/person. Bus tickets can be bought at the bus station. If you buy tickets at a travel agency, they will charge about 10,000 kip commission/person and 20,000 kip/person for the tuk-tuk. The tuk-tuk driver will buy the bus tickets for you when you reach the bus station. It is far cheaper to buy the tickets at the bus station yourself, and barely any harder. There is a small guest house and travel snacks at the bus station.


 * Boten border with China, buses 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:30, 25,000 kip, 1 hour.
 * Dien Bien Phu (Vietnam): 07:30 130,000 kip.
 * Huay Xai, for the Thai border and Mekong cruises down to Luang Prabang. 75,000 kip including tuk-tuk to the bus station. 3 buses a day: 08:30, 12:00, 14:30, 130,000 kip. Marked as "Bokeo" at the bus station. With the morning bus, you'll end up at Huay Xai bus station around 13:00, with plenty of time for onward travel in (and, likely, a few fellow travelers going to) Thailand. if that's your purpose - it even may be possible to reach Chiang Mai (465 km total distance) on the same day using public transportation, although a stopover at Huay Xai, Chiang Khong across the border, and/or Chiang Rai is highly recommended. Using public transport/tuk tuk is easy and will be ~155,000 kip compared to 250,000 kip via Luang Namtha travel agents.
 * Jinghong, (Xishuangbanna, Yunnan Province, China): There is a daily bus Jinghong (through Mengla) leaving at 08:00 from the 10 km south bus station, 90,000 kip.
 * Luang Prabang, One bus daily leaving Luang Namtha at 09:00 (72,000 kip).
 * Mengla, first Chinese city after crossing into China's province of Yunnan. 08:00, 50,000 kip.
 * Muang Sing, from the bus station in the town proper.
 * Muang Xay (Udomxai). 08:30, 12:00, 14:30, 40,000 kip.
 * Nong Khiaw, there is a 09:00 bus to Nong Khiaw; the price on the board is stated as 100,000 kip, as well as the price paid in the opposite direction (7-8 people). In case this service isn't available, catch the 09:00 bus to Luang Prabang and get off at Pak Mong bus station. From there (32 km to Nong Khiaw), you'll need to take a tuk-tuk. They charge a minimum of 120,000, so the price varies by the number of people. There seems to be a scheduled songthaew/tuk-tuk few times a day as well, they charge flat 25,000 kip/person, but you may have to wait for a few hours if you're unlucky.