Longsheng

Longsheng (龙胜; Lóngshèng) and nearby Longji terraces (龙脊梯田; Lóngjǐtītián) are in North Guangxi, near Guilin.

The Longji rice terraces area is famous for the large number of terraced rice paddy fields on its mountain, which have created an intricate pattern on the hillsides. Set amongst the villages of the minorities Zhuang and Yao, the area allows for easy to moderate walking/hiking possibilities along and up hillsides to view the panoramas of the terraced rice fields, as well as glimpse the rural life and style of architecture found in the forest-fringed villages.

Understand
Longji means 'Dragon Back'. When the paddies are full of water in spring, it is said to resemble the scales on the back of a dragon. The fields are beautiful all year round, in the early stages when filled with water, and as the rice grows and matures, changing colours as it does so. Winter may also see snow. Blossoming flowers are also to be seen in some parts and in some seasons, and along the journey here, there is forest-clad steep-sloped mountain scenery to be taken in.

The Longji terraces are comprised of two separate but closely located areas: the Ping'An terrace fields, and the JinKeng terrace fields, each with their own villages and hamlets within easy walking distance. Ping'An terrace fields are comprised of Ping'An village, and two smaller hamlets, and is a Zhuang minority inhabited area. JinKeng terrace fields comprise DaZhai village, as well as 5 smaller hamlets, including TianTou village higher up the mountain. JinKeng is predominantly or completely Yao minority inhabited.

Arrive near the end of May, and witness the fields full of water as the first stage of growing rice begins. Dawns and dusks are heightened by the effect of the water-cloaked hillsides mirroring the sun's rays.

The ticket office and its local bus service is run by a group of tour operators in cooperation with the local government. Profits are not shared with the local community. Apparently, the villagers are so upset with this that they are staging a protest by delaying and in some cases refusing to flood the terraces with water.

Get in
It is about two hours drive to the north through twisty mountain roads from Guilin to Longsheng town. It is also possible to get to Longsheng on public transport from Guilin. The busses to Longsheng leave from 2011 from the new bus terminal near the LIQ-Brewerie, not the one in the centre near the train station. From Longsheng, the Longji terraces are a further hour or so by local bus. Buses can take you straight to either one of the villages from Longsheng, enquire which village beforehand, if you have one in mind for late-arrival accommodation purposes. Once there, travel between the two villages is straightforward. It's faster if you change buses at Heping instead of Longsheng - one village before Longsheng, but there is no bus terminal and you have to wait on the road and also some taxi drivers will bother you. Notify the conductor of your final destination so they can tell you where to get off. The fastest connection is to take at direct bus from the parking lot in front of the railway station for ¥40. Departure is 08:30 and 14:00 to Dazhai in high season.

An alternative connection to the railway network is via the station at Sanjiang County. There are frequent buses between Longsheng and Sanjiang which take around 2 hours.

It is also possible to arrange for a private shuttle bus for about ¥350 direct from Guilin. Pickups are typically from the Guilin railway station. This method is probably the simplest but it may be difficult to find the shuttle buses on your own. If you book a room with one of the hotels in the area however, they can easily arrange a pick-up for you. Also, hotels offer a combination of a tour with visiting a village of Yao minority on the way to the terrace area for ¥180 per person including bus transfer, entrance fee and guide (tour is said to be in Chinese only, but main points are translated into English as well).

Entrance to the Longji terrace area and its villages is controlled by a large ticket office. Tickets are ¥80 per person which includes a small pamphlet with a rudimentary map of the area's interconnected villages.

Longsheng is also on your route if going Hong Kong to Kunming overland.

Get around
Both villages are at the bottom of the rice terrace-covered hills.

Visitors by car must park below the villages, and take a minibus to either the upper car park/entrance of Ping'an Zhuang village, or the upper car park/entrance of DaZhai Yao village. Public transport will take you straight to the villages. You can also step off at Huanglou Yao village (also a bus terminal) and hike in about an hour or so from there to Ping'An village.

From DaZhai village, it is possible to either take a gondola up the hill or hike up, while at Ping'an you must ascend on foot. There are sedan chairs available for hire if you are not up to the climb. The path ascends rapidly through the paddy fields and houses. There are several view points along the way where you can rest and take photographs, and stone paths lead to viewing platforms higher up.

At the villages, local women gather to offer to carry your backpack or daypack in bamboo baskets attached to their back for ¥20-25 (fee varies with the weight of your bag). There are, surprisingly enough, senior local women whose English is advanced enough to act as your tour guide. They may likely approach you once inside the village or whilst walking along the paths, or your can enquire at the entrance. It is feasible to ask for a map at the entrances to the villages (they are not automatically given), to orient yourself and to get some background details.

Check the bus schedule from Longsheng station, the last bus leaves before sunset since it would be dangerous to drive in the dark. 1-1h30 to get to Dazhai, a bit shorter to Ping'An.

Do








Buy
As with many tourist attractions in China, trinkets, clothing, and 'antiques' stalls abound. An array of the minority clothing, jewelry, artwork and linen is for sale at the villages.

Eat
Several of the houses in the village are new or have been rebuilt. There are many small restaurants in the village where you can rest, refresh and enjoy country style Chinese food. At the path side you will find some people cooking rice on an open fire. The rice is stuffed inside the hollow core of a bamboo along with some meats, vegetables and spices. The bamboo tube is sealed and placed on the fire to cook. This is a popular traditional meal for the local people.

Sleep
Although most tourists come here on a day trip, it is a very beautiful place worth staying for a night or two at either one of the villages. Ping'An is the more popular village with direct road access. The smaller, more remote villages require an additional hike on foot (locals offer to carry your bag for ¥20-25 depending on weight) and offer a more intimate experience. There are hotels and lodging with panoramic views of the rice terraces. When the terraces contain water, sunrises and sunsets can be mesmerising, making an overnight stay essential.

Go next

 * Guilin - this popular tourist city is 2 hours away.
 * Sanjiang - focal point of the Dong minority, visit nearby Chengyang to see the elaborate wind-and-rain bridge.

Longsheng is on the Hong Kong to Kunming overland route; see that article for places further away.