Loikaw

Loikaw is the capital of the Kayah state (population 140,670 as of 2013) in Eastern Myanmar close to the Thai border.

Understand
Formerly an administrative outpost of British Burma, Loikaw continues today as the administrative capital of the region with government and NGO offices, a hospital, and a nearby military base. The region is known for its many ethnic groups with the most famous being the Karenni people, especially the Kayan Lahwi/Padaung (women) with their golden brass neck coils that seem to stretch their neck (but actually cause a lower shoulder). You will see locals wearing traditional ethnic clothing, usually at the markets.

The geography around Loikaw consists of plains dotted by lakes surrounded by a multitude of densely forested hills. Agriculture and resource extraction are the main industries of the area. There is a large hydroelectric dam at Lawpita providing around 30% of the national electricity output.

Historically, this region was affected by decades of conflict. Various Karenni and Shan groups were in armed conflict with the central government and with each other until the 2012 ceasefire agreements in the state. Refugees from this conflict are present in Thailand and around the world. The largest Karenni organization in the area is the Karenni National Progressive Party (KNPP). You may be able to see offices and flags of these groups when you travel in the region.

Starting in the early 2010s, the area opened up and begun development for tourism. Travel to remote regions off the beaten track may still require permits. A guide is recommended to help with navigation and safety. The state is heavily mined due to the prior conflict.

Get around
Most of the town can be covered on foot. Surrounding temples and villages are easy by bicycle if you are comfortable with traffic on busy roads. Alternatively, a tuktuk or taxi can be hired. Local buses travel the main road. Ticket prices are based on distance.

To reach sights further away from Loikaw, a hired private car is recommended due to the remoteness of some of the sights and the lack of public transport options. Reaching areas off the highways may necessitate a 4x4 vehicle due to dirt roads. The monsoon season will also impair any travel to these areas due to its effect on dirt roads.

Do

 * Take a walk around the local market in the morning and spot different tribes selling their goods.
 * Cross the old wooden footbridge without tripping.
 * Walk around Naung Yar Lake to watch the sunset in the evening.
 * Rent a bicycle or motorbike at Loikaw Souvenirs (No(1), Kandayawadi Street across the street of Mingalar Hotel. ). Victoria, the owner of the shop is very kind and would be very happy to help you. She also organizes tours to go around Loikaw and villages.

Buy
Many local foods and products at the market. Traditional woven Karenni clothing are made within this region as a handicraft to buy from various shops in town. Woven bamboo baskets are another local handicraft.



Eat
Since it's Myanmar and a small town don't expect much open after 21:30 or before 08:00.







Cheap noodles 500 kyat at a small shop just north from the wooden bridge on Highway 5.

Usual tea houses with fried food freshest early in the morning. Small market with food stalls north of Shwe Thaung Monastery. Dumpling stuffed with tofu and spring onions, 1,200 kyat good for two.

Drink
There are numerous tea shops selling fried dough snacks. Local Burmese beer such as Dagon is a popular drink of choice. People will also consume homemade moonshine made from a variety of grains, which you can try if you are adventurous.

By bus
To Yangon goes via Kalaw to Aung Mingalar station in Yangon. Cost 12,800 kyat (October 2015) departs 12:00 and 15:00. The route can be popular so best book in advance. The 15:00 bus arrived at 07:00 in Yangon to Nyuengshwe leaves very early in the morning.

By train
To Kalaw and Shwenyaung (Inle Lake) you can take a train on the branch line. You can continue down the hills to Thazi, which is on the main railway line between Yangon and Mandalay.

By boat
The ferry to Nyuengshwe departs from Pekon around 09:00