Lockerbie

Lockerbie is a town in Dumfries and Galloway in southwest Scotland, with a population of 4190 in 2020. It's on the road and railway between Carlisle and Glasgow, and grew up as a "planned town" from the 18th century. But its name is forever linked to the terrorist bombing of Pan Am Flight 103 above the town on 21 December 1988.

Understand
Pan Am Flight 103 was a regular service from Frankfurt via London Heathrow and New York JFK to Detroit. It involved a change of plane at Heathrow for the transatlantic sector, and on 21 Dec 1988 this aircraft was Clipper Maid of the Seas, a "Jumbo" Boeing 747-121. The winter night had fallen when it left on time, taking off at 6:25PM. At 7:02PM over Lockerbie it was decapitated by an explosion: the nose with the flight crew fell into a field east of town at Tundergarth, where it became the defining image of the tragedy. The rest plunged into the houses both sides of the railway track in the south part of town, and the fuel caused a huge explosion. All 243 passengers and 16 crew were killed, and 11 residents of Lockerbie.

An immense forensic investigation combed the area for evidence. This pointed to a bomb placed in an unaccompanied suitcase flown to Frankfurt from Luqa airport Malta, wrapped up in clothing purchased in Sliema. The shopkeeper identified Abdelbaset al-Megrahi, a Libyan. This man had entered Malta on a false passport and left Luqa for Tripoli at the same time as the departure to Frankfurt, so he had an opportunity to switch tags on the fatal bag. In 1991 he was indicted for 270 murders, along with Lamin Khalifah Fhimah the Libyan airlines manager at Luqa.

There was then a great game of diplomatic and legal chess, with UN sanctions against Libya, a pariah state under its leader Muammar Gaddafi. In 1999 Gaddafi handed over the two men at a neutral venue, Camp Zeist near Utrecht in the Netherlands. Scotland claimed jurisdiction under its separate legal system, and a panel of three Scots judges convened at Camp Zeist in their Calvinist robes and cravats. Both the accused declined to testify. In 2001 al-Mehgrahi was found guilty but Fhimah was acquitted.

Appeals came and went and al-Mehgrabi spent 10 years in Scottish jails protesting his innocence. He was released in 2009 terminally ill with prostate cancer, but the Libyan climate revived him, and he survived until 2012. There have been plenty of alternative theories but it's difficult to avoid the conclusion that he did what the judges decided he did, but was acting on behalf of others who were never brought to justice.

By road
Lockerbie is along the main Carlisle - Glasgow road A74(M). Bikes and non-motorway traffic should take B7076 the old road parallel.

North, the motorway and old road run level to Beattock village (turnoff for Moffat) then climb over Beattock summit at 1033 ft (315 m) before descending the Clyde valley to Abington (turn-off for Edinburgh), Hamilton and Glasgow. The summit can be wintry but it's very rare for the motorway to close. It's sometimes Scotland's lifeline when all other roads are blocked.

The town is on the main London - Glasgow railway line, but most trains thunder through non-stop. From London or the Midlands change onto the hourly Transpennine trains, which run from Liverpool or from Manchester Airport and Piccadilly via Preston, Lancaster, Oxenholme (for Lake District), Penrith and Carlisle. They continue from Lockerbie either to Motherwell and Glasgow Central, or to Edinburgh.

By train
Change at Carlisle for the train from Newcastle via Hexham, and the slow train from Glasgow Central via Kilmarnock, Sanquhar, Dumfries, Annan and Gretna Green.

is in town centre. There's a staffed ticket office but no machines. There are toilets and a waiting room, and step-free access to both platforms.

By bus
Stagecoach West Scotland Bus 81 runs from Dumfries M-Sa every 30 min, every two hours on Sunday, taking 20 min via Torthorwald to Lockerbie High St and continuing to Broomhouses industrial estate.

Houston's Bus 382 trundles 3 or 4 times a day from Carlisle, taking 80 min via Gretna, Kirtlebridge and Ecclefechan; the train takes less than 20 min.

Houston's Bus 380 runs every couple of hours from Moffat, taking 35 min via Beattock and Newton Wamphray.

Inter-city buses for Glasgow and Edinburgh rush past on the motorway and don't stop here. Change at Moffat for the Glasgow - Dumfries service.

Get around
You can walk round town, including the mile to the cemetery, as A709 Dumfries Road has a sidewalk that far. You need wheels for anything further out.

Taxis in town are Sandy's Cab (+44 7851 723643), PA Taxis (+44 7591 648400) and AC Taxis (+44 7597 199357).

See

 * is a well-ruined 14th century bastion, abandoned in the 17th century. It's free to view 24 hours. You might question how its Hereditary Keeper the Earl of Mansfield is discharging his responsibilities, but on his watch no enemy has seized this rubble.
 * is another 14th-century turret, but renovated into a family residence, lately the home of historian Steven Runciman (1903-2000). The house is available to let as a private study and spiritual retreat, if you happen to be Russian Orthodox, and the grounds may be open to stroll.
 * is a natural redoubt on the edge of Ae Forest, a promontory surrounded by deep gullies and reinforced by an earthwork rampart and dyke. It's believed William Wallace and his men were based here in 1297 as they planned to capture Lochmaben Castle (predecessor to the present ruin). But this redoubt is probably centuries older.
 * is a well-ruined 14th century bastion, abandoned in the 17th century. It's free to view 24 hours. You might question how its Hereditary Keeper the Earl of Mansfield is discharging his responsibilities, but on his watch no enemy has seized this rubble.
 * is another 14th-century turret, but renovated into a family residence, lately the home of historian Steven Runciman (1903-2000). The house is available to let as a private study and spiritual retreat, if you happen to be Russian Orthodox, and the grounds may be open to stroll.
 * is a natural redoubt on the edge of Ae Forest, a promontory surrounded by deep gullies and reinforced by an earthwork rampart and dyke. It's believed William Wallace and his men were based here in 1297 as they planned to capture Lochmaben Castle (predecessor to the present ruin). But this redoubt is probably centuries older.
 * is a natural redoubt on the edge of Ae Forest, a promontory surrounded by deep gullies and reinforced by an earthwork rampart and dyke. It's believed William Wallace and his men were based here in 1297 as they planned to capture Lochmaben Castle (predecessor to the present ruin). But this redoubt is probably centuries older.

Do

 * Golf: Lockerbie GC is on Corrie Rd just east of town. Lochmaben GC is five miles west. Several more around Dumfries.
 * Golf: Lockerbie GC is on Corrie Rd just east of town. Lochmaben GC is five miles west. Several more around Dumfries.
 * Golf: Lockerbie GC is on Corrie Rd just east of town. Lochmaben GC is five miles west. Several more around Dumfries.

Buy

 * Tesco is the main store, by the railway station. It's open M-Sa 7AM-1PM, Su 8AM-10PM.
 * Farmers Market is in Town Hall on the third Saturday of the month Sep-Dec and Feb-Jul: 9:30AM-1PM.
 * Farmers Market is in Town Hall on the third Saturday of the month Sep-Dec and Feb-Jul: 9:30AM-1PM.

Eat

 * Lucky Rainbow is a Chinese takeaway at 46 High St, open Th-Su 4:30-7PM.
 * Lucky Rainbow is a Chinese takeaway at 46 High St, open Th-Su 4:30-7PM.
 * Lucky Rainbow is a Chinese takeaway at 46 High St, open Th-Su 4:30-7PM.

Drink

 * Brewery: Lowland Brewing on Well St make a range of ales. No tours.
 * Distilleries: see Dumfries for two in Dalton - Ninefold make rum and Oro make gin. The nearest whisky distillery is in Annan.
 * Brewery: Lowland Brewing on Well St make a range of ales. No tours.
 * Distilleries: see Dumfries for two in Dalton - Ninefold make rum and Oro make gin. The nearest whisky distillery is in Annan.
 * Distilleries: see Dumfries for two in Dalton - Ninefold make rum and Oro make gin. The nearest whisky distillery is in Annan.

Sleep

 * Lochmaben has Crown Hotel.
 * Ecclefechan has Ecclefechan Hotel, Kirkconnel Hall Hotel and Cressfield.
 * Lochmaben has Crown Hotel.
 * Ecclefechan has Ecclefechan Hotel, Kirkconnel Hall Hotel and Cressfield.
 * Lochmaben has Crown Hotel.
 * Ecclefechan has Ecclefechan Hotel, Kirkconnel Hall Hotel and Cressfield.
 * Lochmaben has Crown Hotel.
 * Ecclefechan has Ecclefechan Hotel, Kirkconnel Hall Hotel and Cressfield.
 * Ecclefechan has Ecclefechan Hotel, Kirkconnel Hall Hotel and Cressfield.

Connect
Lockerbie and the A74(M) have 4G from all UK carriers, but there's little signal on the side lanes. As of March 2022, 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

 * Dumfries is where the poet Robert Burn spent his final years.
 * Annan is where they brewed "the devil's porridge", a military secret.
 * Gretna is still an English wedding destination, but the Scots never needed to elope there.