León (Nicaragua)

Founded in 1524, León is one of the oldest cities in the Americas. With colonial splendor, it is the intellectual center of Nicaragua, renowned for its university, old churches, fine museums, revolutionary history and student life. It is also the home town of two of the finest poets in the Spanish language, Rubén Darío and Alfonso Cortés.

Understand
The core of León is its Central Park (Parque Central) with the adjoining cathedral. Most important sights can be found within a 10-minute walk from there. From the perspective of the Central Park, the city’s lively commercial area is in the northeastern quadrant, where you will find the banks, most stores, the two municipal markets behind the cathedral and the San Juan church respectively, as well as many hotels and hostels. This is also where the main bus station is located, serving all destinations except the Pacific Ocean beaches. The more quiet cultural part of the city is in the northwestern and southwestern quadrants, and here you will find the university, the municipal theater, the cultural center, the park of the poets, the old monastery, most of the museums and the city's best restaurants. The southeastern quadrant is home to the hospital, and it is the least interesting quadrant from a tourist perspective. The major exception to this general outline is a cluster of bars one block west of the Central Park.

León is the home to the oldest university i Nicaragua and the second oldest in Central America. It is filled with students and has a vibrant night life. While older tourists flock to Granada, young volunteers, backpackers and other extranjeros meld more with the locals in León compared to its colonial rival.

Fourteen blocks west of the cathedral is the center of Sutiava, which is older than León, and which used to be an independent town populated by indigenous Americans. It still has its own cultural flavor and traditions. Here you will find the Suitava church and central square, a couple of museums, old church ruins, a small municipal market and the bus station for the Pacific Ocean beaches.

History
The official name of the city is Santiago de los Caballeros de León, named after the city of León in Spain. When founded in 1524, it was located further east, at the western end of Lake Xolotlán. Ten years later, the Diocese of Nicaragua was established in León. After a destructive volcanic eruption of Momotombo, the city was moved to its present location in 1610. Almost the entire city was moved, including the saints in the churches and some of the dead in the cemeteries, but ruins of the old city can still be seen at León Viejo. In 1812, the second oldest university in Central America was established in León.

Together with Granada, León has the most colonial architecture in Nicaragua. León has more colonial churches than any other place in Nicaragua, and if you are on the church tour, there are thirteen to check out.

After independence, the liberals of León and the conservatives of Granada struggled over which city would be the capital, ultimately leading to civil war in the 1850s. As a compromise, Managua became capital, but Granada conservatives held onto the presidency until the rise of liberal president José Santos Zelaya in 1896.

León used to be the hub of cotton growing but that industry has declined, being replaced by sugar cane and other crops.

During the Somoza family dictatorial rule, León was a center of resistance. In 1956, president and dictator Anastasio Somoza García was assassinated at the Casa del Obrero in León by the young poet Rigoberto López Pérez.

In 1979, the Sandinistas took over León in violent street by street fighting. After losing the city, the dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle bombed it, hitting civilians and fighters alike. You can still see the bombed out San Sebastián church three blocks south of the cathedral, as well as bullet marks on some buildings.

On April 2018, there were protests in León against changes to the governments social security system. When repressed, the protests spread to the rest of the country, leading to many deaths in the hands of the Ortega government. Since then, the economy has been relatively depressed. Tourism took a big hit, although León is still popular among backpackers.

By plane
The closest commercial airport is in Managua, roughly a 2-hour drive from León.

By car
The main roads to and from León are in excellent condition.

From Managua: The best road to León is the Carretera Nueva a León (new road to León), which is about a 90-minute trip from center to center, although more during the Managua rush hour. At Mirador de Mateare (km 30) you can stop by the shore of Lake Managua for nice views of the Mombotombo and Mombotombito volcanos across the water. If hungry, stop for quesillo and tiste in Nagarote or La Paz Centro. Alternatively, you can take the newly renovated Carretera Vieja a León (old road to León), which is about the same distance with less traffic, but the road has more hills and turns.

From Granada and Masaya: first drive to Managua, then follow the directions above.

From Rivas, San Juan del Sur and Los Pueblos Blancos: take the road to Jinotepe and El Crucero and then the Carretera Vieja a León (old road to León).

From Boaco, Juigalpa, Bluefields, San Carlos and other places to the east of Lake Nicaragua: There are two options. You can either drive to Managua, and then follow the directions above. The roads are good but the Managua rush hour traffic can be bad. Alternatively, when you get to the Panamerican highway in San Benito, make a right instead of a left, and after 6.5 km on that highway, take a left to San Fransisco Libre and continue on to El Tamarindo on the highway that connects León with Estelí and Matagalpa. In El Tamarindo make a left, followed by another left when you reach Telica on the León to Chinandega highway. This route is about the same distance as the one through Managua, and it has much less traffic, but, while most of the road is in excellent shape, the 26 km between San Francisco Libre and El Tamarindo is a wide and flat gravel road.

From Estelí, Matagalpa and other places in the north: take the Panamerican Highway to Emplame San Isidro León, which is 3 km southeast of San Isidro. From there, head southwest on highway No. 26 which is in great shape. When you reach Telica and the highway between León and Chinandega, make a left.

By bus

 * From Managua: Take the vans leaving from Mercado Israel Lewites or the microbuses (camionetas) leaving from UCA (Universidad Centro Americana). The vans from Mercado Israel Lewites are 15-passenger vans that are fairly crowded, but not excessively uncomfortable, particularly when you sit next to a window. Buses run regularly, leaving from the Mercado every 15-20 minutes. Microbuses leave from La UCA beginning at 04:30 until approx. 21:00. They leave whenever they are full, usually every 15 minutes. The bus from either terminal costs C$46. If you take the bus, make sure to get an expreso - otherwise the bus makes stops to pick up passengers on the side of the road along the way. Direct transportation is available directly from the Managua airport via private van service, up to US$60-70 one-way.
 * From Granada: Take a minivan to Managua UCA station and transfer to another minivan to León. It takes around 4 hours and costs less than C$90.
 * From Esteli: There is one direct bus daily. If you miss it, you have to change in San Isidro on the Panamerican Highway. Minivan service directly to Leon is also available from Esteli (C$75, 2 hours) but times and availability are not regular, and they will not leave until full.
 * From Matagalpa: There are two direct buses running daily, otherwise take a bus to San Isidro and transfer to León.
 * From Chinandega: Buses for León depart every 15 minutes.

The León bus terminal is 1.9 km northeast of the Central Park. If you do not want to make the 20-minute walk to the center, take the local bus, a bicycle taxi or a regular taxi for about C$20 per person.

Get around
The city is a great place to walk, and by foot you can easily reach every major tourist attraction except those in Sutiava, which is a bit more of a hike but still doable.

Bicycling is popular among the locals. Many hotels and hostels offer bike rental for around USD10 per day.

White local buses run from the inter-city bus station in the northeastern part of the town and the municipal market behind the San Juan church, to the center of León. They also go to the municipal market in Sutiava, where buses leave for the beach towns of Las Peñitas and Poneloya.

Bicycle taxis are widely available but not allowed close to the Central park. Regular taxis are C$20 anywhere in the city before 19:00, C$30 after 19:00. Within the city, you always pay per person and you may share the taxi with other passengers heading in the same direction.

See
The main attraction in León is the city itself, with its colonial houses and churches, and its vibrant student life. The two specific sights not to miss are the cathedral, with a side visit onto its roof, and the beautiful Ortiz-Gurdián Art Museum.

Parks Churches Museums Other

Volcano climbing
Leon lies below the Cordillera de Los Maribios, a mountain range with multiple volcanoes, and it is possible to hike most of them. The most popular volcano is Cerro Negro, a young, small volcano that offers incredible views and slopes to practice volcanoboarding, where you can descend the volcano in great speed. Nearby there are two atypical volcanoes; Las Pilas and El Hoyo, which can be hiked together. Telica, the most active volcano in the region, is climbable but only when it is calm so be prepared to give this one a miss. Hikers interested in a demanding climb should head to Momotombo, which is also an active volcano. It is the most difficult volcano to hike but has the most spectacular views in Nicaragua, and it is worth the effort. Below Momotombo there are two volcanic lagoons: Asososca and Monte Galan, and these are great for cooling off after a long day or two of hiking.

While it is possible to climb the volcanoes on your own, it is recommended to go with a guide or an organized tour, as hiking the volcanoes can at times be dangerous due to volcanic activity. It is also easy to get lost or run out of water.

Volcano boarding
It is almost a rite of passage for every traveler that visits Leon to board down the side of Cerro Negro. Even for those not so interested in boarding, the 45-minute hike up offers spectacular views of a moonlike landscape. The actual boarding down is fun and generally involves sitting down on the board, leaning back and controlling the speed with your feet in the sand. If you dare, you can reach speeds of up to 95 km/h on the steepest sections of the hill. All tour companies provide equipment, transport and usually a beverage after the ride. No tour organizations offer stand up style boarding so if you want to do this you will need to find your own gear.

Hot springs
The hot springs at Hervidores San Jacinto, at the foot of the Telica volcano, makes for a great daytrip. Catch a bus at the terminal or take a taxi, round trip for C$300. Entrance is C$20 and you'll be hooked up with one of the local kids/guides. They are really nice and a must. Pay careful attention to where they walk, and take the same path, as you will be walking just above thermal activity. As someone said, "It's like a mini Yellowstone, without the fences."

Baseball
Catch a baseball game if you are there during the season. For C$50 you can sit right behind home plate, or pay less for 3rd base side where the lively crowd sits with the unofficial band. Order some vigoron, get a Victoria and enjoy. The stadium is in the northern part of the city, but a new larger one is being built south of the city, as of 2024, next to the road to Managua.

Swimming
Go on a day trip to to the beach to swim in the Pacific ocean. Choose between Las Peñitas, which is known for its mellow vibe, or Poneloya, which is less touristic. These are two of Nicaragua's nicest beaches, and they are both reached by a half hour bus ride from Sutiava or in 15 minutes by taxi (C$150-200 per person). The last bus back to León leaves the coast around 18:30 which gives you enough time to watch the spectacular sunsets over the beach.

Surfing
Las Peñitas is a great place for surfing, with lessons are available for beginners. There are plenty of good reliable waves to enjoy, although they are not among the very best in the country.

Kayaking
The Isla Juan Venado Nature Reserve is a wonderful place for kayaking, cruising among the mangroves and watching birds and other wildlife. The long and narrow estuary between the island and the mainland goes all the 20 kilometers between Las Peñitas and Salinas Grande, but most people make a shorter return trip with a nice break on the beach at the ocean side of the island. Kayaks can be rented in Las Peñitas or you can join one of the tours operating from León.

Spanish
There are Spanish schools in León, but you can also get excellent classes with private teachers.

Work
Volunteer work: There may be volunteer opportunities with local tour groups.

Work for pay: For long-term visitors (6 month or so) it's sometimes possible to teach English.

Groceries and household items
All across the city you will find small pulperias that sell food, drinks, phone cards and common household items. Most of these operate out of the owners home. León has three main municipal markets, in central León just east of the Cathedral, in the northeast next to the San Juan church, and in Sutiava. There are also a few large supermarkets.

Clothing and apparel
There are many small clothing and shoe stores around the city. For fast and cheap shoe and clothing repairs, head to the Central Market behind the cathedral.

Budget
Food is sold by street vendors all across town and they are a popular source of energy among the local student population. Some good places to find them are in the Central Park, outside the La Union supermarket, and by the La Salle School three blocks west of the Central Park.

Bars and dancing
There is a cluster of bars just west of the Central Park. Another option is:

Budget
Dormitories (many with private rooms as well) Private Rooms

Stay safe
León is by both Central American and Nicaraguan standards a safe city. You can safely walk in the city center during both the day and in the evening.

Connect
There are Cybers all over town

Go next

 * Poneloya and Las Peñitas - Two Pacific Ocean beach towns and fishing villages. Great for swimming, surfing and kayaking. Located 20 km southwest of the city, they are easily reachable by taxi (C$150-250) or buses that depart from the municipal market in Sutiava.
 * Chinandega - A neighboring commercial city that is even hotter than León. It has an excellent archeological museum and some beautiful churches. It is 40 km northwest of León; buses leave every 15 minutes from the main bus terminal.
 * The northern beaches of Aposentillo, Juiqilillo, Padre Ramos and Mechapa, for swimming, surfing and kayaking in the Padre Ramón nature reserve. First go to Chinandega and then continue further north by car or bus.
 * Estelí - A lively mountain city in the cooler northern part of the country, famous for its murals and cigar makers, and surrounded by nature reserves. Direct bus service from the main bus terminal.
 * Ruins of León Viejo — The original site of León on the shore of Lake Managua and at the foot of the Momotombo volcano. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is almost half way to Managua; take a bus to La Paz Centro, and then another bus to Puerto Momotombo.
 * Granada - The other more touristy colonial city in Nicaragua. From the bus terminal, take a minivan to Managua UCA station and transfer to another minivan to Granada. It takes around 4 hours and costs less than C$90.
 * Honduras - From the neghboring city of Chinandega there is regular bus service to the Honduras border at El Guassaule. If you're heading all the way to the Bay Islands, there are 3-4 weekly shuttles to La Ceiba ($65, 13 hours) leaving at 02:00 and arriving in time for the afternoon ferry to Útila or Roatán.
 * El Salvador - To El Tunco, El Salvador there is a 10-person direct mini-shuttle with a/c ($45pp, 10 hours). $7pp fee at Nicaragua-Honduras border not included. If you want to avoid Honduras, take a bus to Chinandega and then another bus to Potosí on the Gulf of Fonseca. From there you can take a boat to La Unión in El Salvador.