Lanzhou

Lanzhou (兰州; Lánzhōu) is the capital of Gansu province of China.

Understand
Lanzhou is an industrial city of about three million people. It is located on the shores of the Yellow River and was a major stop on the Silk Road; in those days, it was known as the Golden City. From the 5th to the 11th century the city was a major seat of Buddhist learning, and it acquired its present name during the Qing Dynasty in 1656. Until the 19th century, Lanzhou was the primary point for crossing the Yellow River via a bridge made by chaining a flotilla of boats together with a road on top to cross on.

Lanzhou used to be one of the most polluted cities in China but the situation has improved.

By plane


A single line shuttle bus (¥30 per person) makes the trip to city in a bit more than one hour, and finally stops at the crossroads of TianShui South Road / DongGan West Road (天水南路、东岗西路).

A dedicated commuter train line connects the Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport and the Lanzhou Railway Station, with an intermediate stop at Lanzhou West Station. (Some trains from the airport terminate at Lanzhou West). The travel time from the airport to Lanzhou Railway Station is 50-55 min; as of 2015, there is approximately one train per hour in each direction. (Current schedule, in Chinese).

By train
All long-distance trains nowadays use, a huge modern building that from the street looks like a gigantic Walmart. From here, high-speed trains rush to Xining (1 h 15 min), Jiayuguan (4 h 30 min), Urumqi (12 h), Xian (4 h), Wuhan and Beijing.

Conventional trains still use the old Lanzhou Railway Station (Lanzhou Huoche Zhan) at the south end of Pingliang Lu at Tianshui Lu. This is also served by a few high-speed trains, and by the airport train.

By bus
The East Long-Distance Bus Station is on Pingliang Lu. Destinations include Dunhuang (24 hours), Guyuan (8), Jiayuguan (17), Pingliang (5), Tianshui (4), Urumqi (38), Xi'an (15), Yinchuan (12) and Zhangye (12).

The West Long-Distance Bus Station is on Xijin Xilu. Destinations include Linxia (3 hours), Liujiaxia (2), Xining (5) and Hezuo (5).

The South Long-Distance Bus Station serves Xiahe (6 hours).

Get around
The Metro runs east–west across the city, linking downtown with West Railway Station.

The #1 Bus is really useful getting around Lanzhou. It travels from Lanzhou Station to the Lanzhou Hotel, Qingyang Lu, Xihu Gongyuian Park, Qiliheqiao and ending at Lanzhou West Station. It also connects the train station to the starting point of the shuttle bus to the airport, here.

There's a city bike scheme, with pick-up / drop-off stations dotted around.

See

 * White Cloud Temple (Baiyun Taoist Temple) is on the south river bank, Nanbinhe East Road, one block west of Zhongshan Bridge. It's much less touristy, a peaceful little compound, so the wear-and-tear on the buildings feels venerable rather than run-down. Free.
 * Qiaomen Mosque (Bridge Gate Mosque, 桥门清真寺) is just south of the bridge.
 * Xiguan Mosque is on Cuiyingmen, one block south of the Taoist Temple. Anywhere else, this would be a hard-hat zone, as (in 2018) the mosque compound is being rebuilt. But if you pick your way past blocks of cladding and piles of sand and trailing pipes and cables, the mosque itself remains open. It's quite a simple modern design.
 * White Cloud Temple (Baiyun Taoist Temple) is on the south river bank, Nanbinhe East Road, one block west of Zhongshan Bridge. It's much less touristy, a peaceful little compound, so the wear-and-tear on the buildings feels venerable rather than run-down. Free.
 * Qiaomen Mosque (Bridge Gate Mosque, 桥门清真寺) is just south of the bridge.
 * Xiguan Mosque is on Cuiyingmen, one block south of the Taoist Temple. Anywhere else, this would be a hard-hat zone, as (in 2018) the mosque compound is being rebuilt. But if you pick your way past blocks of cladding and piles of sand and trailing pipes and cables, the mosque itself remains open. It's quite a simple modern design.
 * Qiaomen Mosque (Bridge Gate Mosque, 桥门清真寺) is just south of the bridge.
 * Xiguan Mosque is on Cuiyingmen, one block south of the Taoist Temple. Anywhere else, this would be a hard-hat zone, as (in 2018) the mosque compound is being rebuilt. But if you pick your way past blocks of cladding and piles of sand and trailing pipes and cables, the mosque itself remains open. It's quite a simple modern design.

Do

 * Walk across the Zhongshan Bridge for the night lights, people and the immense Yellow river.

Eat
Lanzhou is famous for its beef noodle soup (Lanzhou niurou lamian). The noodles are always hand made, and the broth served hot and spicy with as much beef as you care to pay for. They are a specialty of the Muslim Hui ethnic group, and hence are a good option for those looking for halal food.
 * Zheng Ning Road Night Market A street with plenty of food stalls in the evening. Seems it has replaced the old Hezheng Lu Night Market. The street is located between Qingyang Lu and Gannan Lu, about one km south from the big pedestrian street.
 * Zheng Ning Road Night Market A street with plenty of food stalls in the evening. Seems it has replaced the old Hezheng Lu Night Market. The street is located between Qingyang Lu and Gannan Lu, about one km south from the big pedestrian street.

Other options:

Drink

 * Huanghe Beer
 * Wuquanshan Beer

Budget
As located in buildings, with almost no signs or Chinese signs, hostels in Lanzhou are a little bit tricky to find.

Dorm price : ¥40 to ¥50.
 * Lanzhou Dream Forest Hostel, very nice inside decoration but since 2017 they can no longer accept foreigners, unfortunately. So contact them to make sure you are allowed to stay or not, before you go because the location is away from city center.
 * Lanzhou Ferry Hostel Opened in 2017, this small hostel run by a super friendly young guy named Whale, who speaks good English. The location is great : quite central but in a small quiet street, so no noisy. However the place is a bit hard to find. You can check the location on OsmAnd or Mapy.cz, or booking.com where pictures helps to locate the entrance. Go to the end of the dead-end street, where you wouldn't believe it is here, go left when you cannot move forward, you are now in a small square surrounded by crapy-looking buildings. It is number 36, big metal door, ring on #103. But best is to contact Whale (+8617794268283) to explain or pick you up.

Many of the cheap hotels on near the train station on Tianshui road (天水南路) do not accept foreigners, but some do, look around. Here's a couple to get you started.



Cope
The Visa Extension Service is located in a big administrative building on the southwestern corner of Qingyang Lu & Jiuquan Lu, on the 4th Floor, easy to find, follow the VISA signs. You can search for "Min'an Mansion" on Google Maps to locate the building. Opened from 9:00 to 17:00. Friendly English-speaking staff. No need for photos & passport copies, they will take a digital photo. You just need a proof of lodging. Takes 3-4 working days.

Connect

 * Almost all hotel rooms have free internet in the form of an Ethernet cable. Sometimes the cable is sticking out of the wall. Sometimes you will find it in the drawer or the cupboard - plug in.
 * Although wireless networks are not common (ethernet based connections are much more common) there are a great many unsecured wireless networks in the city. For the most part downloads are unlimited for subscribers - so don't feel too bad if you help yourself.
 * You can also buy 3G internet USB modems from the major telcos. Expect Chinese language software simple enough for the English speaking to use.
 * Internet cafes exist thanks to online gaming. They are not particularly cheap, staff have extremely poor English and all applications will be in Chinese. Recommend plugging in your USB stick with Portable English applications on it: http://portableapps.com/
 * If all else fails, keep Skype open. Skype have done deals with many ISPs. And you can use Skype to make a wireless Internet connection. See this article for more detail: http://www.skype.com/intl/en-us/features/allfeatures/skype-access/

Go next

 * Linxia - center for the Hui (Muslim Chinese) and Dongxiang (Muslim Mongol) minorities. Numerous mosques and Islamic mausolea (gongbei), colorful markets and relaxing teahouses
 * Sichuan Back Entrance Route - south via Xiahe, Hezuo and on past Langmusi into Sichuan province
 * Bingling Temple