Langzhong

Langzhong (阆中; Làngzhōng) is a town in northeastern Sichuan province.

Langzhong is a city of about 100,000 people on the Jialing River. The main attraction is the ancient town (古镇, Gǔ zhèn), a mostly unadulterated section of ancient architecture, closed to vehicle traffic. The town is famous as the abode and headquarters of Zhangfei (张飞), a notable emperor during the years of the Han dynasty. There are also some hiking and sightseeing opportunities in the surrounding area.

Langzhong's size and offerings makes for an ideal weekend trip, but could host several days of sightseeing, especially for those interested in classical Chinese culture and architecture.

By train
Langzhong is now connected to China's high speed rail network. One high speed train departs daily from Chengdu, departing from Chengdu East Station (2.5 hours, ¥95). There is also one slow train daily from the same station (4 hours, ¥49.5). Trains from Chongqing are much more frequent, with five high-speed trains departing daily from Chongqing North Station (2 hours, ¥88), and several slower trains departing daily from both Chongqing Station and Chongqing North Station (3 to 5 hours, 41).

The railway station is located about 4km southwest of the old city.

By bus
Three buses leave daily from Mianyang (4 hours, ¥75), departing from Fu Le bus station northeast of the city. There are also multiple buses leaving from Chengdu's Beimen station (5 hours, ¥94). Chongqing and Xi'an also offer buses to Langzhong.

The main bus station is located 5km south of the town. Another, smaller station is located north of town. The two bus stations are connected by bus 89, which also passes by the old town.

Get around
Langzhong has a simple bus system with several lines serving the bus station, Grand Buddha, and old town. Taxi flag fall is ¥4.5.

See
The main attraction is the old town (古镇, Gǔ zhèn), a sizable section of ancient-looking buildings in classical style. It was from this town that the famed warrior-king Zhangfei administered the Kingdom of Shu during the late Han.

The town offers a combined ticket (¥120) to seven main attractions, listed below. The combined ticket is valid for 2 days. Individual tickets can also be purchased for each attraction. All sites have slightly informative English captions on some displays. Once in the old town, these sites are easy to find by either following town maps posted everywhere, or buying a town map (¥5-10).

For the very time- or budget- conscious, a tower and the Fengshui museum will probably suffice. Otherwise, these and various other sights make for a day or more of sightseeing.

The following sights are either free or charge a fee which is not included in the price of the combined ticket:



Do
In addition to sightseeing in the old town, there are two mountain areas south of the town, just across the river.

One of these, southeast of the city, is a large mountain park. Referred to collectively as East Mountain Forest Park (东山林园, dōng shān lín yuán) it hosts three major sights:



The scenic area is accessible a number of ways. Tourist transport buses and ferries run between the town and the scenic area. The public bus also stops at the entrance to the park (bus stop: Grand Buddha Temple Park Entrance, 大佛寺园入口). From the bus stop, walk up the signed road. You can walk to the Buddha Temple (3km) or to a set of steep stairs on your right (1km) which goes to the pagoda. From there, follow signs to the remaining sights.

Probably the most rewarding experience in any time of year is a few hours dedicated to wandering the streets, looking for glimpses of the goings-on of ancient China.

Eat
Langzhong is famed as one of China's main vinegar production centers. However, despite what some popular guidebooks say, everything is not pickled here.

One local specialty is Zhangfei's Beef (张飞牛肉, Zhāngfēi niúròu), a dried beef dish attributed to the warrior-king, who was a butcher of animals before he became a butcher of men.

Within the old town, most of the best dining is found on North street (北街, Běi jiē) (changing to South street after crossing the main street, Wumiao jie).

Guzhen Bakery Just north of the Zhongtian tower at Wumiao Jie is a very small bakery whose extremely jolly proprietor will gladly speak English with foreign guests. Look for candied hamburgers (¥4).

For a delightful meal full of atmosphere, try dinner just south of Zhongtian Tower on south street. Look for a huge wok of fried dumplings. A plate of these and a self-serve bowl of pumpkin porridge with pickled vegetables costs about ¥10.

Drink
There are no obvious dedicated drinking establishments within the Old Town itself. Beer can be bought at most restaurants. Coffee/milk tea bars are common in the old town.

Sleep
There are many courtyard homesteads in the old town, often advertised as "so-and-so's family complex." Some, such as the Li Family Courtyard, are quite similar to the complexes where families lived in ancient times. There is no shortage of these: look for the sign 住宿, or sleeping-place, or just walk into any open, inviting looking courtyard. Most proprietors are glad to rent space to travelers for around ¥100 for a double.