Langkawi

Langkawi (Jawi: لانكاوي), officially known as "Langkawi, the Jewel of Kedah" (Malay: Langkawi Permata Kedah) is an archipelago of 99 islands (an extra 5 temporary islands are revealed at low tide) in the Andaman Sea, 30 km off the mainland coast of Kedah. It is a popular destination due to its natural white sand beaches, lush jungle foliage, craggy mountain peaks and duty-free status, where alcohol is affordable.

Politics and demographics
The islands are a part of the state of Kedah, adjacent to the border with Thailand. The total population of the islands is 99,000; however only two islands are inhabited: Pulau Langkawi, the largest island, with a population of 65,000 and Pulau Tuba. Langkawi is also an administrative district, with the town of Kuah as the capital and largest town.

Etymology
The name "Langkawi" has two possible origins. First, it is believed to be related to the kingdom of Langkasuka, itself a version of the Malay negari alang-kah suka ("the land of all one's wishes"), centered in modern-day Kedah. The historical record is sparse, but a Chinese Liang Dynasty record (c. 500 AD) refers to the kingdom of "Langgasu" as being founded in the 1st century AD. Second, it could be a combination of the Malay words 'helang', meaning "eagle" and 'kawi', meaning "reddish-brown" or "strong", in old Malay.

History
Langkawi was long under the influence of the Kedah Sultanate, founded in 1136 AD upon the introduction of Islam. Kedah, including Langkawi, was conquered in 1821 by the State of Siam (now Thailand). During the invasion by the Siamese, the leaders were killed, many islanders were taken as slaves, and most of the population fled. In the Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1909, the Siamese ceded control of the island to the British, who held the state until Malaysian independence in 1957, except for a brief period of Thai rule under the Japanese occupation of Malaya during World War II. Thai influences remain visible in the culture and food of Langkawi.

Langkawi remained a sleepy backwater island until 1987, when the island was granted tax-free status with the intention of promoting tourism to improve the lives of the islanders.

Climate
Sheltered by the mountainous backbone of Peninsular Malaysia, Langkawi is not affected by the northeastern winter monsoon and enjoys sunny skies in winter when the eastern provinces are flooded.

Preservation
The 10,000 hectares of Langkawi and its 99 islands were declared a geopark by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) in 2007.

By boat

 * Langkawi Ferry Services operates fast air-con boats from Kuala Perlis (RM18, 75 min), Kuala Kedah (RM23, 105 min), Penang (RM60, 165 min) (the ferry is freezing cold, so bring warm clothes), and Satun (RM45 or 450 Thai baht, 75 min), (Satun ferry to Langkawi: one boat departs Satun daily at 11:30AM.) Langkawi to Satun: one boat departs Langkawi daily at 8:30AM. The ferry was suspended during COVID-19 and reinstated with only one daily ferry as of November 2023.


 * Langkawi Ferry Line operates between Langkawi and Kuala Perlis, Kuala Kedah.


 * Super Fast Ferry operates between Langkawi and Penang. Still suspended in 2023 due to Covid-19.


 * Tropical Charters operates ferries between Kuah Jetty in Langkawi and Ko Lipe. The price is RM118 one way (RM100 if you book online), including the longtail boat transfer and Thai customs fees. Check-in is at the inner entrance of the Jetty Point Food Court, opposite 7/11, 1 hour before departure. The trip takes 90 minutes. Arrival in Ko Lipe is at the Bundhaya Resort.


 * Telaga Terminal operates speedboats between Langkawi and Ko Lipe (RM128 1-way, RM248 return, 75 min). These boats dock at a pontoon in Pattaya Bay from where there are longtail transfers to immigration on Pattaya Beach.


 * Tigerline Ferry operates between Langkawi and Ko Lipe.


 * Satun Pakbara Speed Boat Club Company operates between Langkawi and Ko Lipe.


 * Bundhaya Speed Boat operates between Langkawi and Ko Lipe. Choose the Ferry (not Speedboat) tab on their website.

Get around
There is effectively no public transport on the island, so your choices are to use taxis or to rent a car, motorbike/scooter, or bicycle.

By taxi
Taxis and the Grab mobile app operate on a fixed price system. A taxi from the airport to Pantai Cenang costs RM20 or less with Grab. You can buy a coupon at the taxi desk at the airport. From the ferry terminal to Pantai Cenang, the price is RM24. For those arriving at the Kuah Jetty and going into Kuah Town, the price is RM8.

By car or motorbike/scooter
Renting a car or motorbike/scooter is highly recommended due to the lack of public transport. This can be done at the airport, the port complex, or from shops on Pantai Cenang. Refrain from renting from touts, as many are operating illegally without permits and usually without insurance. Accidents happen to tourists on motorbikes/scooters regularly, so be careful although the traffic is not as chaotic as in Penang and other areas. The roads are in good condition. Most rental agencies will not provide full insurance coverage and you have to cover the damage up to RM3000 if there is any accident.

Renting an air-conditioned mid-sized sedan costs RM70-RM150 per day depending on model, condition and length of stay and a 150cc motorbike/scooter costs RM40-45 per day. Cheaper but usually very used and older are the semi-automatic 115cc bikes for RM25 a day. A tired Proton within Pantai Cenang costs RM60-90/day.

Check your fuel level regularly because petrol pump stations (gas stations) are far from one another. Most rental agencies do not care how much fuel is in the tank when the vehicle is returned, although some may do so and mark it on the receipt. Fuel costs are cheap and are fixed by the government and you should return the bikes with the same filling level as you picked it up.

The first time at a gas/petrol station will confuse you. You will need to guess how much fuel you need and pay first. Most saloon cars, if empty, are RM50 to fill up and motorbikes are approximately RM5. Sometimes you fill up your car/bike and you haven't used what you have paid for; not to worry, as you can claim this back at the counter.

Remember to drive safely and slowly on the island and on the left side of the road. There are tourists, children and animals like chickens, cows and even buffaloes crossing. Take care not to run over the beautiful snakes or monitors. Cattle and snakes like to lie on the road at night; the blacktop radiates heat.

Driving laws:
 * 1) Your driver's licence needs to be with you at all times. An international driver's licence is not necessary but licences must have text in English.
 * 2) Seat belts are mandatory in all vehicles. Fines are given ranging from RM50 if not wearing one.
 * 3) Helmets are mandatory. Fines are the same as above but more importantly, the hospital does not have facilities to treat head injuries, so you will have to get a medivac out to Penang, which takes 45 minutes or more — if the helicopter is available.

Roadblocks are commonplace in Langkawi; they are mainly interested in locals with no licence. Make sure you have the above items and your seat belt fastened, and you will have no problems.

By bicycle
Some hotels offer bicycle rentals. Expect to pay between RM10-30 per day.

See






Do
Organized activities in Langkawi include cruises via yacht or sailboat, mangrove tours, island hopping tours, jet ski tours, birdwatching tours, nature walks, kayak tours, scuba diving & snorkelling, helicopter tours, and jungle trekking tours.







Buy
ATMs and money exchange booths are available at the Langkawi Airport, at Langkawi Parade Shopping Complex, next to Underwater World at Pantai Cenang and at Cenang Mall.

Langkawi is a duty-free island, and alcohol is significantly cheaper here than in the rest of Malaysia.

Hotel tariffs and retail goods are exempt from government duty. Visitors with more than 48 hr stay in Langkawi are exempt on items like wines and liquor (1 liter), tobacco (200 cigarettes), apparel, cosmetics, souvenirs and gifts, food and food preparations and portable electronic items (one item).

Shop around before buying: the airport is probably the most expensive place to buy anything. Shop in Kuah town for batik, tobacco products and chocolate confectioneries.



Eat
There are food stalls and restaurants all over Langkawi. Try one of the many seafood restaurants. Langkawi people like their food hot and spicy, and even if they tone things down at your request, you may still find your food challenging to eat.

Seafood or fish may be priced by weight or by a set price for the dish - clarify before ordering.

Budget
For a taste of simple Malay-style breakfast, just walk up to a small stall opposite the Underwater World in the mornings and feast on the famous freshly-prepared banana leaf-wrapped nasi lemak (steamed rice in coconut milk). The price is most affordable at less than RM 2 for a pack. Go local and enjoy this with a glass of hot teh tarik or really good local coffee. This very unassuming stall is just simple and great (clean too!). The nasi lemak comes with curried beef, squid in chili, fried salted fish or chicken.

Mid-range




Drink
Because of Langkawi's tax-free status, alcohol is much cheaper than in the rest of Malaysia. Religious Muslims do not consume alcoholic drinks, and while they do tolerate non Muslims who do, try not to behave in a rowdy imbibed manner near them, their houses, mosques, and please respect local culture and communal sensitivities. For those living on a budget, you can obtain alcohol at cheap prices from the local duty-free shops: the larger the outlets, the lower the prices. Expect to pay RM35 for 1 L Absolut Vodka, RM37 for 1 L of Johnny Walker Red Label, RM45 for 1 L Kahlua, RM60 for 1 L Bailey's, and RM70 for 1 L Chivas Regal 12 years. Small cans of beer: RM2.30 for Tiger Beer 330 ml and RM1.80 for some cheap Dutch beer. Small quantities? 500 ml of some random gin per RM15.

Some of those prices can be as cheap as a half of the price of the same product on the Duty Free Shop of the International Airport at Kuala Lumpur (KLIA).

Despite low alcohol prices, Langkawi is predominantly popular with couples and families. Single travelers and backpackers may therefore be disappointed with the lack of nightlife. Most bars remain empty, particularly in the low season, and the 1-2 nightclubs may only seem worthwhile in the peak season, and even then only on Friday or Saturday nights. Overall, Langkawi provides a family-friendly alternative to Thai locations such as Phuket and Koh Samui.











Budget
Both luxury and eccentric hostels are common on Langkawi. If you are looking for budget accommodation, your best bet would be to walk along the beach and adjacent road at Pantai Cenang. It is hard to find budget accommodation in other beaches in Langkawi, except Pantai Cenang and Kuah town. Prices there normally range from RM50 to RM150 per room per night, on or next to the beach.



Telephone
Mobile phone coverage is very good in all built up areas of Langkawi. Many affordable pre-paid phone and data plans are available. Recharge cards are readily available except for the very cheap TuneTalk which is harder to find and SIM cards almost non existent. It is best to buy this back in LLCT where no commission is charged on the SIM. Full reception and reasonable data speeds can be achieved on the beach and inside the resorts on Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah.

Post
The main post office in located in Kuah Town. Mini post offices can be found in Padang Mat Sirat. There is no post office in Pantai Cenang, but you can buy stamps and send postcards in T Shoppe on the main road. Courier service, Poslaju shop can be found at Taman Berlian, Kuah.

Internet
Broadband is available and some Internet cafés can be found along Pantai Tengah, Pantai Cenang and Kuah. In addition, many of the upscale hotels, resorts, and restaurants provide free WiFi.

Stay healthy
The biggest health risk on Langkawi is from jellyfish stings, especially during January - June season. Uninformed visitors are stung every day and the lifeguards on Pantai Cenang and the hospital treat more or less severe cases of jellyfish stings most days. There are several species of jellyfish in Langkawi's waters, while most will give you a nasty sting or a burn, there are some that will cause partial paralysis or even kill, in case of the lethal box jellyfish. If you have been stung badly, don't exert yourself physically as this will pump the toxins around the bloodstream and aggravate the symptoms. Vinegar is the only scientifically proven treatment for tropical jellyfish stings, apply it for 30 seconds to block toxin which has not yet been absorbed into the blood. To stay safe, swim only in stinger suit.

Langkawi can have a lot of mosquitoes depending on the time of year and location (i.e. Mangrove areas), so don't forget to use mosquito repellent. "Off" spray and various citronella or DEET based products are available in most supermarkets.

Average temperatures are hot or hotter; it's the tropics. Be sure to stay hydrated. You will need to drink about 3 litres a day and don't wait till you are thirsty to drink. Room temperature water preferably. De-hydration accounts for a large percentage of dodgy tummy holiday illnesses.

See also Tropical diseases.

Stay safe
Speedboats can often bounce off the waves at very high speeds and passengers can get quite strong jolts into the non-sprung seats, so persons with back or neck problems should not travel on the speedboats, but on the ferry. There have been reports of serious back injuries happening on the speedboats. They are also known as 'vomit comets' due to the number of people succumbing to sea sickness. Bring lots of water and be prepared for a bumpy ride! Also be very careful while swimming. At times, tides and currents can be very aggressive and not easy to spot.

Be careful driving around Langkawi at night. Although main roads are well-lit, some of the more minor roads are not very well lit and may pass through Kampungs (traditional Malay villages) or rural areas where the locals seem to take a very casual approach to road safety. Drive slow and watch out for erratically piloted motorbikes, pedestrians and livestock. Inside Kuah Town, watch out for errors in the road arrows - they may lead you into wrong lanes or into barricades. at night, watch out for water buffalo sleeping in the road.

Crime is generally not a problem on Langkawi, especially compared to the larger cities in Malaysia. In theory, you don't even have to lock your car, because it cannot get off the island without customs knowing about it!

Beware of smart wild monkeys. Those at Tengkorak beach attack humans who have food. If attacked, pick up stones (or just pretend to do so) and throw them at the monkeys, this will scare them away. Also, do not carry plastic bags as the monkeys associate these with food. Don't let them get too close to you or they will steal your glasses.

Please read up on rip tides before you go; learn to recognise and to avoid them.

Respect
Langkawi is a Geopark but still needs to improve its environmental friendliness. Don't participate in certain activities such as eagle feeding and monkey feeding as this harms the animals by encouraging them to become reliant on tourists and you may give them the wrong food.

Go next

 * Ko Lipe &mdash; Great diving and snorkeling at the only inhabited island in Tarutao National Marine Park, a short speedboat ride (1½ hr) away on the Thai side of the border.
 * Ko Tarutao &mdash; Another island in Tarutao National Marine Park, however does not suffer from the rapid development issues faced by Ko Lipe.
 * Penang