Lamu



Lamu is a town in Coastal Kenya. Its old town is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Understand
This is the main town on Lamu Island which is in turn part of the Lamu Archipelago.

Lamu is vastly different from most cities in Kenya, most particularly due to the almost complete lack of motor vehicles and corresponding traffic. Culturally Lamu also differs from interior of the country as it has retained its historic character as the oldest continually inhabited town in the country and one of the most important Swahili settlements. Lamu's religious history as an Islamic center is also immediately evident as most residents wear traditional robes and headscarves along with the dozens of mosques that broadcast the call to prayer throughout the day.

The Old Town is located on Lamu's North-Eastern shore. The Southern coast of Lamu is a 12 km long sand beach called "Shela Beach". About 3 km South of the Old Town, at the Eastern end of Shela beach, you will find "Shela Village"; an area with plenty of hotels and restaurants.

Talk
Locals involved in the tourism industry speak English, however Swahili is the dominant language of the town. The local Bajuni dialect differs noticeably from standard Swahili, but all locals will understand and can speak the standard variety as well. Learning basic Swahili phrases and traditional Muslim greetings will help show respect and interest in the local culture.

Get in

 * Lamu town on Lamu island is best reached by air at Manda Airport, either directly from Nairobi (Jambojet and Fly 540 from Jomo Kenyatta airport; Safarilink and Air Kenya fly from Wilson Airport), Mombasa (Mombasa Safari Air), or Malindi (Jambojet and Fly 540). The airport is on Manda Island opposite the main village necessitating a short five minute boat ride. This short trip should not cost more than Ksh 200, while Shela is Ksh 1500 (1200 if you negotiate).
 * For those on a tighter budget a daily bus service does run from Mombasa via Malindi. This route was notorious for attacks by Somali bandits and buses have in the past been stopped and robbed. The trip from Mombasa to Lamu (Mokowe on the mainland) takes 5-7 hours depending on road conditions. The last part from Garsen to Mokowe is a mud road and can be rough. Get a seat in the front of the bus (book in advance) to get a pleasant trip. Several bus companies operate the route but few are express (no unnecessary stops). Two express buses are Tawakal and Najaah. To get to Lamu from Mokowe on the mainland you must take a slow and crowded ferry, a shared speed boat, or hire your own speed boat. All options will take you to Lamu Town. You can usually negotiate to be taken to Shela if this is your final destination.
 * It's also possible but expensive to hire a car from Mombasa or Malindi.

Get around
There are no options for transport apart from boat or donkey, though everything is within walking distance. Donkeys create an unfortunate mess on the main streets as they are the primary form of heavy transport on the island and are allowed to relieve themselves wherever they want. As such be cautious about where you are walking as you may accidentally step in something you wish you hadn't.

It should also be noted that lighting at night of the narrow streets is very minimal. A flashlight is a recommended accessory for walking around at night. If you don't bring one with you, many of the tiny shops sell cheap lighters that come with small built in LED flashlights.

There are motorcycle taxis that will take you between Shela and Lamu. Its Ksh 100 during low tide, and Ksh 200 during high tide. If you ride with two passengers you can get a little discount.

See
The main attraction is the old town ((UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001) with its old traditional houses, its winkling streets and the special atmosphere

Do

 * Wind surfing. There is a shed next to Peponi Hotel where an instructor will teach you for Ksh 3000 per hour.
 * Wind surfing. There is a shed next to Peponi Hotel where an instructor will teach you for Ksh 3000 per hour.
 * Wind surfing. There is a shed next to Peponi Hotel where an instructor will teach you for Ksh 3000 per hour.

Beaches
On Lamu Island:

On Manda Island:  Interesting lonely beaches, but difficult to reach, partly naturist suitable

Eat
The seafront restaurants in Lamu Town offer excellent seafood at reasonable prices. Delve further back from the dock for more traditional Swahili fare. Traditionally, the food is eaten with your fingers. Sometimes it is good to bring your own utensils, otherwise you will find yourself trying to eat oil-soaked rice with your fingers - not the easiest task. All better restaurants provide cutlery, if you want. In the streets around the covered market you will find many stalls with cheap and delicious street food. The tourist oriented restaurants in Shela tend to be more expensive as there is less competition.



Drink
The nightlife is rather quiet, also because in a Muslim place only in licensed places alcohol are sold.

Sleep
When choosing accommodation that is listed and rated in the most popular Internet hotel booking sites, you can book either in Lamu City, Shela Beach or the beach in Kipungani at the end of the island. Depending on whether you prefer more peace and quiet or the life in the city. Especially Kipungani is quite remote, but also very romantic.

Most of the year, it's possible to simply show up and book through a tour guide, if you're willing to spend the first day of your trip tromping around in the heat.

in Lamu town
There are many hotels along the seafront. They have a nice view, but the noise level can be surprisingly high (from motorbikes and boats). Inside of the old town, there is no noise from vehicles, but everyday at 5am, you might notice there's a mosque next door.

Kipungani area
It's very quiet and romantic.



Go next

 * Dodori National Reserve & Boni National Reserve:The parks are hardly ever visited because of the high level of insecurity in the area, which is looted by Somali guerrillas. A visit to these reserves, especially Boni, is therefore strongly discouraged.
 * Malindi
 * Mtwapa
 * Mombasa
 * Diani Beach
 * Nairobi