Lalsk

Lalsk (Russian: Лальск) is a small, historic market town in the north of Kirov Oblast. This is well off the beaten path, a place where only the most ardent travelers interested in small towns and the architectural heritage of Russia get to. Unlike the rest of the Kirov region, Lalsk belongs to the Russian North, its past closely connected with Veliky Ustyug, and its bleak present looks similar to far flung taiga towns of Arkhangelsk Oblast. Nonetheless, it was here that the Totemsky architectural tradition met the Vyatksky tradition, creating a unique combination well preserved for a modern tourist!

Understand
A historic city, Lalsk was founded in the 16th century at the crossroads of trade routes. In 1779, it received the status of a county town of Vologda Province. However, the 19th-century railways cut off the city from modern trade, and the town's growth halted. Now Lalsk is a quiet town with a population of 2,900 people (2018), with perfectly preserved monuments of northern architecture of the 18th-19th centuries, hardly visited by tourists, and practically unchanged since the 19th century.

Get in
Lalsk is in the north of Kirov Oblast near the border with Vologda and Arkhangelsk Oblasts. The nearest significant cities are Veliky Ustyug (70 km) and Kotlas (90 km). You can only get to Lalsk through the local transport hub, Luza, which you can reach by rail from Kirov or Kotlas.

By train
Luza Station (Станция Луза) ) is on the Kotlas—Kirov railway. There are 1-2 daily trains stopping at Vorkuta.  There is also a daily Kotlas—Pinyug commuter train, which can get you to Luza in 2½ hours, but avoid this route, as you'll get stuck in Pinyug, waiting for a night train to Luza.

By car
It is convenient to get to Lalsk through Veliky Ustyug by crossing the Dvina River to the village of Kuzino, and then going along local roads to Luza and then on to Lalsk. This way is fully accessible for any car regardless of the time of year, although the road quality is better in the winter, and some sections are unpaved. You can get to Luza in other ways as well. South of Luza, the road goes to Podosinovets and Demyanovo (there are no signs, and you'll have to ask the locals for directions), where, by roundabout routes, you can manage to make your way west to Vologda Oblast on the Veliky Ustyug—Nikolsk road or further south to more populous parts of the Kirov Oblast. The condition of these local roads is unpredictable, and their availability for cars depends on the time of year. In winter, it's easy to get to Kirov, but in the summer, good luck!

Going on from Lalsk to the east, you will sooner or later (but rather later than sooner) find yourself in the Komi Republic via the P176 Kirov—Syktyvkar highway. The road is paved up to the administrative border, which, apparently, is passable for any transport and in any weather. This is the most reliable way from Lalsk to Kirov (430 km).

By bus
There is no official bus station in Lalsk; buses stop at ul. 60 let Oktyabrya.

Between Luza and Lalsk, ten buses run on weekdays and four on weekends and holidays. Travel time from Luza to Lalsk is about 30 minutes. Double check the timetable at the Luza bus station. Travelers heading towards Veliky Ustyug or the Komi Republic usually hitchhike.

Get around
Lalsk is tiny, and you can easily get everywhere on foot.

See
Ensemble Square 25 Octobrya (Ансамбль площади им. 25 октября). A collection of wonderful examples of the northern baroque style. You can climb the bell tower, which offers a great view. The best panoramic view of the ensemble itself is from the right bank of the Lala — from the bridge. As expected in the north, the ensemble consists of two churches: a large, cool, summer church and a smaller, warm, winter church, as well as a bell tower.



Ensemble Square Lunacharskovo The best view of the ensemble is not from the square, but from the other side of the Lala, across the bridge. Both churches were ruined beyond recognition in Soviet times, and now barely look like churches at all.



Other sights

Note the wooden sidewalks — two wide wooden boards lying on one or both sides of the street. Since there is almost no asphalt in Lalsk, such sidewalks are a necessity, as it is tough to walk on the streets after it has rained. Such a design is often found in northern towns, and Lalsk is no exception.

Do




Buy
In the Regional History Museum, you can buy souvenirs made from birch bark and Dymkovo toys.

Eat and drink


Food in Luza also comes down to simple eateries/cafeterias. All of them are daytime only, and in the evening, if they are open, they turn into bars/nightclubs (which are definitely not recommended). At least one snack shop is in the center of Luza, by the station and the shopping arcade.

Sleep
There are no hotels in Lalsk (with perhaps one exception/option below), but you can overnight in Luza:



It appears one hotel room has cropped up in Lalsk:



Stay safe
Luza and Lalsk are not among the most prosperous Russian cities. Although they're not particularly noteworthy for crime, be prepared for the fact that in the latter part of the day (and on weekends - in the first) some locals can get a little drunk and might not have a great attitude towards travelers. This does not mean that it is very dangerous in Lalsk, but it is more comfortable to explore the city during the day, and in evening to head out of town, perhaps staying by the Church of the Intercession on the Luza (Церковь Покрова на Лузе).

Go next
In the villages around Luza, at least a dozen old churches have survived. Most of them are abandoned and in ruins, and given the distances and poor road quality around here, virtually everything (including Lalsk itself) is fairly hard to get to. Nevertheless, amateurs and connoisseurs alike are unlikely to consider the trip complete without visiting the Church of the Intercession on the Luza — an outstanding monument of northern architecture.