Lake Toba

Lake Toba (Danau Toba), on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia, is the largest volcanic lake in the world. Samosir island, in the lake, is an island within an island. It is in North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara).

Understand
Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake covering an area of 1,707 km2 (1,000 km2 bigger than Singapore) with an island in the center. Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggest that there were only a few thousand individuals that survived the catastrophe. The island in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of Batak tribe who are mostly Christians nowadays.

Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs skyrocket. In its effort to promote tourism, government has greatly improved the infrastructure.

The water quality in Lake Toba is not the same everywhere, so seek local advice before swimming. Some areas of the lake are not recommended for swimming, due to pollution caused by intensive fish-farming.

Tourist information

 * Lake Toba tourism information

Talk
The local people who live in the Toba region are called Toba Batak, or simply Batak, and they speak the local Batak language, but everyone also speaks Indonesian. You may want to use the Batak greeting, 'horas', which means welcome, good morning, farewell, etc.

By plane


You can also fly to Medan's Kualanamu International Airport and continue to Lake Toba by land.

By car
There are 2 routes to reach Lake Toba from Medan:
 * Kabanjahe route
 * Pematang Siantar route

The Kabanjahe route is the shortest, it passes through Berastagi town and Kabanjahe city till it reaches Merek town at the northern side (about 2.5 hours' drive from Medan). Once you reach Merek, there are 4 options: This route is recommended to those who wish to explore Berastagi, Kabanjahe and Lake Toba in one go.
 * 1) head down to Tongging and explore the lakeside up to Silalahi (30 - 45 minutes' drive)
 * 2) head to Parapat in the eastern side (2 - 2.5 hours' drive)
 * 3) head to Sidikalang route to explore the western side and cross to Samosir island via the only land bridge (3 - 4 hours' drive)
 * 4) continue from option 3 to the southern side (another 2 hours' drive)

The Pematang Siantar route is the most popular if you choose to visit Parapat, Tuktuk or Balige at the southern side. It takes about 3 - 4 hours from Medan via toll road to Parapat and another 2 hours to reach Balige. If you are flying to Kualanamu Airport, most likely you will use this route.

By bus

 * from Amplas Station in Medan: Rp 39,000 with local bus, 5 hr (every hour); or Rp 65,000 (offers start at 80,000) with tourist minibus, 4 hr (April 2016)
 * from Berastagi:
 * From Kabanjahe bus terminal to Siantar (black minibus written sepadan, Rp25,000, ~3 hr), Siantar to Parapat (white minibus written D.Sanggul or bus, Rp25,000, ~3 hr), Parapat to Tuk Tuk (ferry from "Pelabuhan Tiga Raja" dock near market, Rp25,000. pay on the boat, will drop you at any hotel there or nearby. ~45-60 min)
 * Tourist bus: Rp200-230,000, ~3 hr
 * Shared taxi: ask your hotel
 * from Bukittinggi: Rp 180,000, 15 hr or Rp 250,000 with tourist minibus, 15hr
 * from Bukit Lawang: Rp 230,000/person with tourist minibus
 * from Sibolga: Rp 75,000, 6 hr with minibus
 * from Dumai: Rp 150,000, 11 hr with minibus

To leave Tuk Tuk, if at an hotel on lake border, wait there and wave ferry boat (hourly normally).

Parapat bus terminal is "Terminal Sosor Saba Parapat" with an ALS shop "Loket Bus ALS Parapat" (to Medan, Bukittinggi, Padang) and not much else. About 30 min walk from ferry dock or 10-15 min minibus (Rp5,000).

By taxi
From Medan:


 * Raja Taxi +62 617 366 555;
 * Medan Driver Tour & Travel; +6282114304668 via whatsapp available.
 * Tobatransporter phone : +6285261492668

By train
There is no direct train to Lake Toba. The nearest train station is at Pematang Siantar 50 km north of Parapat. The train (Siantar Ekspres) departs from Medan every day on 14:00 and the trip takes about 4 hours because the train stops at almost every station. Ticket price is Rp 22,000 one way (as of December 2018). From Pematang Siantar, you have to continue by bus/taxi to Parapat, which is another 1-hour ride. It is a long but wonderful way to travel if you like to learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle.

By car
Using a car is the easiest and safest way to get around, but you have to rent from either Medan or Pematangsiantar. Use a car with a high ground clearance and preferably one with lots of power. The majority of roads around Lake Toba are unpaved, save for the major road. Even the paved one may be in very bad condition, with lots of potholes.

By ferry
Local transportation around the lake takes the form of boats (cheaper, school boats with limited schedules and more expensive public boats that operate throughout the day).

The ferry dock of Parapat is the major access point for the Samosir island. From there, jump in a local mini-van towards the Parapat bus station. From there you can reach nearly all the big cities in Sumatra and even Java.

Several harbours on the mainland have ferry connections with Samosir island. Most common is the Parapat - Tomok route. Public boats from Parapat and surrounding areas sail from either or  to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir island. The boat runs every hour, with the last one at 18:00. Some ferry owners are tourist hunters and will overcharge you. Try to take the ferry with wooden benches inside and the light green ferry. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 25,000 (2024) and the locals take to cross over. Locals pay Rp 20,000 (2024). Self-proclaimed 'tourist hunters' may befriend you on the boat but are harmless and often helpful. If you are staying at Tuktuk, you can ask the ferryman to drop you directly at your resort. Watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark — they do not work for the operators. You pay on the boat.

The larger ferry KMP Tao Toba I & KMP Tao Toba II operates between Ajibata and daily, carrying passengers as well as vehicles. Another largerst ferry, KMP Ihan Batak also operates between Ajibata and Ambarita, with more capacity than Tao Toba. On non-peak season, usually only one of the ferry operates. The ferry ride over is fantastic, just truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts, bottled water, noodle or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you will get off the ferry and onto the main road. If you are not bringing vehicles along, better use the boat service as it's faster.

Other large ferries routes are (as of January 2018):
 * (1 hour drive from Tomok) connected to, the ferry (KMP Sumut II) runs once a day every Saturday & Sunday. Trip last about 50 minutes with capacity of 40 people and 8 vehicles.
 * (30 min drive from Tuktuk) by KMP Sumut I connected to which runs 7x trips daily. Trip last about 45 minutes with capacity of 16 vehicles.
 * connected to by KMP Sumut II, runs once a day every Monday & Friday. Trip last about 90 minutes.

Public boat routes (passengers only) are (as of January 2018):
 * from/to Tuktuk:
 * from/to Tomok
 * Tomok - Ajibata, 14x daily, Rp 5,000 / 30 min (from 08:30 to 18:00 every hour)
 * Tuktuk - Tigaraja, 8x daily, Rp 15,000 / 35 min (from 08:30 to 18:00 every hour)
 * Onan Runggu - Balige, once daily
 * Onan Runggu - Ajibata, 5x daily
 * - Balige, once daily
 * Nainggolan - Ajibata, once daily except twice on Monday
 * - Balige, once daily
 * Mogang - Ajibata, once daily
 * Simanindo -, once daily
 * - Haranggaol, once daily
 * - Tigaraja, 10x daily

If you have cash to burn, you can charter a speedboat and tour around Lake Toba. Rent are Rp 500,000++.

By public transport
It may be obvious but just remember there are no taxis around Lake Toba. Public buses exist, but there is no specific schedule. Ask the locals which bus to take as it may be confusing or you can flag a bus and ask the driver. State clearly your destination to avoid misunderstanding. Prices around Rp 3,000 - 5,000 per person depends on distance.

By motorcycle
In Tuktuk, it's possible to hire a motorcycle for a day or two and get out and about Rp 70,000 per day including full petrol. You can bargain down to Rp 50,000 per day in low season if you hire for several days. Outside of Tuktuk may be harder to rent motorcycle, but do try to ask your hotel for help. Most of the motorcycles available for rent are the owner's own transportation, so you may need to return it to them before sunset (depends on owner) or you may be charge for an extra fees. Take a map. There are no police checking licenses and there is not much traffic - just watch out for the big trucks, buses and diabolical bridges. Honking around is a norm to indicate that there's incoming car from the opposite or there's a car bypassing you from the back (in driver's point of view). A good journey to take on a motorcycle would be to travel North from Tuktuk around to the western shore, stopping at the tourist sites along the way such as the many and varied traditional houses and villages. The roads are very bad in the center of the island (bumpy and washed out) and it takes half a day to cross this way (verse 1–2 hours by coast road which is more scenic anyway). You can expect to ride at least up to 100 km in the day. If you're going around the island with motorcycle or bicycle, be sure to put on some sunblock as when you venture out in the morning things can be deceiving due to the cooler temperatures in the morning cause of the higher elevation, but the sun will be intense by mid-day.

Example Becak/tuktuk prices at Mar 2024, 100k+: https://m.facebook.com/dutsmanurung/photos/a.101588561281553/153971816043227/?type=3

By bicycle
Exploring whole lake toba is very time consuming, so mostly is limited to surrounding area only. Most of the cottages and guest houses at Tuktuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee (for locals, it's about Rp 100,000), this is a very much preferred way to get around there. Outside of Tuktuk, hiring bicycle may be a bit hard, but do ask your hotel for help. Be very careful for the cars and trucks as nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even when its the left side.

By foot
Exploring by foot is limited to surrounding area only. Exercise caution for traffic and beware for pickpocket / robber especially at night time.

Eastern side

 * There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.
 * There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.
 * There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.
 * There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.
 * There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.

Western side

 * Bukit Holbung.jpg
 * Tele tower terrace.jpg
 * Tele tower terrace.jpg
 * Tele tower terrace.jpg
 * Tele tower terrace.jpg

Do
Adventurous travelers may find many opportunity to explore the wilderness. Lake Toba offers plenty of rainforest with hills and mountains. However, unless you are an experienced trekker and know what you are doing, walking into the jungle without a guide is very dangerous and could be fatal.

Replace after the frenetic atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 20:15 onwards. After the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men.

Samosir island
Rent a scooter to get around. Scooters cost about Rp 80,000-100,000 per day. Petrol is Rp 10,000 per liter as of April 2024.

Do visit the west! Especially the viewpoint at the northwest tip called. Very chill place with a couple of huts to relax and have coffee in. It's away from the roads and bustle of touristic jet skis.

Get to the viewpoint in the northeast, after Tomok near Latihan Paralayang, for a good accessible view over the lakes while up on the hills. Take a right fork after passing Tomok town. Roads are good. The road on the left fork is not paved.

Without your own transport, possible day tour of island examples: 1100k by car, 500k by moto w driver. Boat tour 350k if enough people (Toba boat cruise trip, Friday 10am, +62 831 0456 8381).


 * . Rental of a fishing rod (Rp 120,000 including bait) is possible.

Eastern side
Many restaurants in this side are concentrated around Parapat. Outside of Parapat, it's quite hard to find decent places. In Parapat, most restaurants are located either on the main road or in hotels. The hotels offer some western dishes, whereas the local restaurants are either Batak (pork may be present) or Minang/Padang (which will be the only option for Muslim). Many hotels will include a basic Indonesian breakfast of coffee and either fried rice (nasi goreng) or fried noodles (mie goreng)

Samosir island
The main road around Tuktuk is lined with small restaurants of varying quality. Also on offer is magic mushroom and various "happy herb" pizzas if you want that.



Samosir island
This area is in a depressed tourist state but is actual a wonderful gem that should be on the world stage. So while some places may look like not much is going on- just go in - and the momentum will build into a fun filled night with new friends. There is one discotheque on Friday and Saturday nights - expect the 1980s music. Better to drink at your guest house generally. There are a number of fine spots around the Tuktuk area to catch a sunset beer. Especially on Saturday night you can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuktuk area.



Eastern side




Samosir island
There are numerous hotels and guest houses, mainly in Tuktuk but with a few scattered in other small towns around the island. During Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb), many Indonesians come for vacation and will pay generously for their rooms (about triple the rate). To accommodate these guests, some guest house owners may ask their existing guests to vacate their rooms, but only giving them very short notice. Therefore, when arriving before Chinese New Year, check with the guest house owner to ensure your stay will not be interrupted.



Stay safe
The local Batak people are very respectful. Some of the local males may try to turn on the charm too much.

Clinics are sparse, even more so with hospital. If you got hurt badly, you may need to wait hours for ambulance depends on your location.

Go next

 * Medan - the major city in northern Sumatra and transportation hub
 * Pematang Siantar - the 2nd biggest city in northern Sumatra after Medan
 * Berastagi - a beautiful town next to two famous volcanoes
 * Bukit Lawang - home of orangutans in the Gunung Leuser National Park
 * Bukittinggi - You can take the ALS bus (Medan to Padang) from the loket ALS in Parapat. It stops there on route. Don’t believe the touts in tuktuk quoting absurd prices. Just buy the ticket for the Medan - Padang leg via Traveloka (Rp 230,000), then tell the people at the ALS loket that you already have a bus ticket. They will call the bus for you and it will pick you up. (June 2022)